[greenberet123]

Just had a/c compressor fail last year, and now, the water pump failed at 90K miles now. What else is going to fail? Can I do preventative replacements to get it done cheap? Thanks! This is a 2008 E93 with N51.

6/4/2018 OFHG changed
10/20/2018 VCG and ESS replaced
1/16/2020 Replaced all 6 ignition coils (Delphi)
9/21/2020 Accident. Entire engine replaced with a used engine with new OFG, VCG, OPG etc. @ 83303 miles
1/18/2021 Replaced ignition coil number #5
1/25/2021 Replaced all spark plugs
5/26/21 AC compressor + Drive belt replaced @ 85336 miles
8/7/21 Replaced left tail light
12/14/21 Oil Change
2/16/22 All tires changed to Michelin PSAS4 @ 90024 miles
3/8/2022 Water Pump + Thermostat failed. Replaced @ 90500 miles

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Mickey mouse flange

[e90yyc]

Convertible top.

[mainbearing]

DISA valves. When the large one breaks, debris can get sucked into the cylinders.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510929

3-way CCV vent hose. The plastic becomes brittle and crack. Crankcase pressure can build up and cause oil leaks.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...49&postcount=3

You may still have the older 1.1Kw starter. Some say the grease or whatever it was causes the starter to stick itself to death. The starter would crank like a weak battery, when the battery is still healthy. I put in a TYC 1.2Kw starter. I think most newer ones are 1.2Kw too. Avoid the 1.1Kw ones I still see out there.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=18

Cheap plastics in the cooling system.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1901410

Check the belt tensioner. When it fails the belt walks off the pulley and then can get ingested by the engine through the front main seal, killing the engine.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=760380
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1465596

[tcphoto]

You cannot look at the short term expenses, I've owned two 3 Series since '09 and think that it's all about the monthly average for maintenance.

[greenberet123]

Thanks! A few questions

1. Will the DISA valve will throw a code before it starts to break, which will give me time to replace it, or does it suddenly fail?

2. Same for the 3-way CCV hose. Will it display obvious symptoms before breaking/damaging anything?

3. How can I check which starter I have?

4. I think they changed my Cooling Hose w/Plastic Connector when I got my engine replaced, so hopefully that won't break.

5. I will keep a close eye on that belt tensioner

Originally Posted by mainbearing

DISA valves. When the large one breaks, debris can get sucked into the cylinders.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510929

3-way CCV vent hose. The plastic becomes brittle and crack. Crankcase pressure can build up and cause oil leaks.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...49&postcount=3

You may still have the older 1.1Kw starter. Some say the grease or whatever it was causes the starter to stick itself to death. The starter would crank like a weak battery, when the battery is still healthy. I put in a TYC 1.2Kw starter. I think most newer ones are 1.2Kw too. Avoid the 1.1Kw ones I still see out there.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=18

Cheap plastics in the cooling system.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1901410

Check the belt tensioner. When it fails the belt walks off the pulley and then can get ingested by the engine through the front main seal, killing the engine.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=760380
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1465596

[mainbearing]

1. DISA will not throw a code. The connector has only 2 pins and I do not think it provides feedback as to flap position. This is such an unreliable, cheap ass design.

You might hear rattling sounds at the intake manifold. From what I read, the large DISA flap breaks apart and the main problem is the pin can get caught in the valves or get ingested by the engine, killing it. The broken flaps are too large to fall into the cylinder in most cases.

My engine seems to have more low end torque after replacement, and the rattle noise is gone. Both valves looked ok on inspection. But given this is a known problem, I just replaced them. I used cheap Uro valves, fingers crossed. If these fail after the 2-year warranty period, I will get Rein ones which are supposedly OEM Mahles with the logo ground off.

DISA noise:

2. In my case I lost some crankcase/manifold vacuum, and there was oil seepage at the oil filler cap and valvetronic motor gasket (football). Replaced that hose (and 6 intake manifold gaskets, along with the starter and alternator voltage regulator), tightened the football screws a bit more and solved the seepage. I should use more RTV on the football as I still get a whiff of oil fume once in a while.

3. Either Bosch or Valeo. I am not sure if the stamping on the motor body is visible, but mine had Bosch stamped on it. I put in a Rock Auto $75 TYC starter with lifetime warranty. So far so good, fast and strong cranks. New aluminum bolts torqued to yield of course, using a Harbor Freight pivot ratchet and an Amazon e-torx socket set (14pc set around $15).

4, 5. Just keep an eye on those. Change them when the time comes.

Examples:

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Thanks! A few questions

1. Will the DISA valve will throw a code before it starts to break, which will give me time to replace it, or does it suddenly fail?

2. Same for the 3-way CCV hose. Will it display obvious symptoms before breaking/damaging anything?

3. How can I check which starter I have?

4. I think they changed my Cooling Hose w/Plastic Connector when I got my engine replaced, so hopefully that won't break.

5. I will keep a close eye on that belt tensioner

[e90yyc]

Your secondary air pump

[Efthreeoh]

How did an accident cause a complete engine failure?

[greenberet123]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

How did an accident cause a complete engine failure?

Rock hit my oil pan from under - all oil leaked out, engine seized

[jsunma]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Rock hit my oil pan from under - all oil leaked out, engine seized

I know two people/cars where the oil pans took a hard hit from objects that they drove over, and they also had "all oil leaked out". One was a Volvo 850 that was being driven somewhat (foolishly) off-road, the other was a 2003 Passat 4motion (my mother-in-law's) that hit a speed bump "at speed" and busted out the oil pan. In both cases, it was immediately obvious that the cars lost oil pressure (the light came on) and the sudden big oil gush once they got out of the car to figure out what they'd hit was enough to get the drivers to stop driving before anything more serious happened.

(fwiw, that VW actually cost more to fix - replace the oil pan - than it cost to replace the oil pan on my car. It also took forever to get the parts as I think they had to send to Germany for them. Dang VWs.... )

What were you doing where a rock hit your oil pan in such a way that you didn't notice and kept on driving?

To your original question though, I have to say that aside from the new engine (which given the "accident" doesn't count as far as something breaking) and the tail light and AC compressor, everything else is routine or otherwise maintenance. All things considered, if this is your total list, your car has been pretty reliable. For a BMW or really just about anything.

[greenberet123]

I didn't realize the extent to the damage, it warned me of oil low, but I was stupid enough to ignore it. I was 14 miles deep on a very bad road, so I was being optimistic and thought I can get out before all the oil leaks. Cost me $1200 just to tow it out of the road.

Originally Posted by jsunma

I know two people/cars where the oil pans took a hard hit from objects that they drove over, and they also had "all oil leaked out". One was a Volvo 850 that was being driven somewhat (foolishly) off-road, the other was a 2003 Passat 4motion (my mother-in-law's) that hit a speed bump "at speed" and busted out the oil pan. In both cases, it was immediately obvious that the cars lost oil pressure (the light came on) and the sudden big oil gush once they got out of the car to figure out what they'd hit was enough to get the drivers to stop driving before anything more serious happened.

(fwiw, that VW actually cost more to fix - replace the oil pan - than it cost to replace the oil pan on my car. It also took forever to get the parts as I think they had to send to Germany for them. Dang VWs.... )

What were you doing where a rock hit your oil pan in such a way that you didn't notice and kept on driving?

To your original question though, I have to say that aside from the new engine (which given the "accident" doesn't count as far as something breaking) and the tail light and AC compressor, everything else is routine or otherwise maintenance. All things considered, if this is your total list, your car has been pretty reliable. For a BMW or really just about anything.

[jsunma]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

I didn't realize the extent to the damage, it warned me of oil low, but I was stupid enough to ignore it. I was 14 miles deep on a very bad road, so I was being optimistic and thought I can get out before all the oil leaks. Cost me $1200 just to tow it out of the road.

Ugh. Yeah, I think we've all been there with something like that one way or another. Sounds like how I warped the heads on my 1971 Buick when I was in college, driving home with a vigorous coolant leak and the temp gauge pinned in the red. I only needed to make it another 20 miles or so....

So I leaned how to replace the heads on my car. And in the subsequent 30 years, I've also learned not to ignore dash lights for things like oil or coolant. :-)

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Rock hit my oil pan from under - all oil leaked out, engine seized

Thanks for the quick response, I was wondering...