[LAKERS333]

Just got delivery of car and while I wait for install of L2 charger, we plugged in the 120v charger provided with car and it shows it charging at 6a. How the heck do you change that, as I can't seem to find anything regarding amps in car settings.

[nZtiZia]

go into the settings of that screen that shows 6A. the highest you can go with the included level 1 EVSE is 10A (if safe for the current circuit you're using)

[LAKERS333]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

go into the settings of that screen that shows 6A. the highest you can go with the included level 1 EVSE is 10A (if safe for the current circuit you're using)

I'm not seeing it on the screen, it's showing in my instrument panel display.

[nZtiZia]

Car > Plan charging/climate control > Settings > Current limit

[jad03060]

FWIW, I'm not sure where it is, but go to the settings page, and you should find it.

There's really no reason to set that value to anything other than 16A unless where you're going to plug your level 1 EVSE in, it's 10A is more than the total of what else is on that circuit, and would cause the breaker to trip. The X5 (and any PHEV or EV), doesn't pull more current than the device says it has, and in this case, it's 10A, regardless of what you put on that menu, but you can restrict it to a lower number if you think it might pop the breaker.

Electrical code says you should protect the wiring by restricting an EVSE's output to NGT 80% of the maximum circuit capacity, so on a typical 15A breaker, that would be 12A. 10A was chosen to give a little buffer if it was in the garage to account for the garage door opener and lights so that you didn't pop the breaker when you tried to close the door. Older ones initially came with a 12A device, and people complained, so they changed the supplied on to a 10A unit.

Note, since it is a fairly high load, you want to make sure that the socket you plug it into is in good shape...the plug should be TIGHT going in. IF it's loose, replace it, ideally with a commercial grade one that has better terminals in it, otherwise, some have actually melted things because the loose connection got hot because the resistance was high, like a heating element, resistance causes heat to be generated as the power flows through it.

[LAKERS333]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

Car > Plan charging/climate control > Settings > Current limit

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

Car > Plan charging/climate control > Settings > Current limit

Thanks buddy, finally found it!

Even though I set it to 16a, it's now charging at 10a.

Still much faster than previous setting of 6a.

[jad03060]

Each EVSE has a maximum output it can produce. It sends a signal (called the pilot signal) to the vehicle, and it is then up to the vehicle to never try to pull more than the device says it has. It's up to you, when plugging in the EVSE, or hard wiring one, to make sure what the device is capable of, is safe, otherwise, you may overheat the wiring TO the EVSE.

The supplied EVSE is a 10A device, so one would never expect to see more than 10A coming out of it, regardless of what is set in the vehicle (unless you told the car to use less).

If you buy a 32, 40, 50 A EVSE, regardless, this vehicle would still get the pilot signal, know what was available, but since internally, it can't use more than 16A, it would pull up to that, not the larger amount. A larger EVSE would probably help on your next PHEV or EV, that likely will be able to utilize more input. But, all you need is a device that can provide 16A at 232vac or greater input power to maximize the charging potential of the X5 45e. Power = volts * amps, and the max the 45e will draw is 3700W.

[LAKERS333]

Originally Posted by jad03060

Each EVSE has a maximum output it can produce. It sends a signal (called the pilot signal) to the vehicle, and it is then up to the vehicle to never try to pull more than the device says it has. It's up to you, when plugging in the EVSE, or hard wiring one, to make sure what the device is capable of, is safe, otherwise, you may overheat the wiring TO the EVSE.

The supplied EVSE is a 10A device, so one would never expect to see more than 10A coming out of it, regardless of what is set in the vehicle (unless you told the car to use less).

If you buy a 32, 40, 50 A EVSE, regardless, this vehicle would still get the pilot signal, know what was available, but since internally, it can't use more than 16A, it would pull up to that, not the larger amount. A larger EVSE would probably help on your next PHEV or EV, that likely will be able to utilize more input. But, all you need is a device that can provide 16A at 232vac or greater input power to maximize the charging potential of the X5 45e. Power = volts * amps, and the max the 45e will draw is 3700W.

Ok thanks, out of caution I adjusted the amps to 10a max, I noticed when I would set to 10a it's actually quicker to charge. About 2.25 hours faster.

[LAKERS333]

Originally Posted by jad03060

FWIW, I'm not sure where it is, but go to the settings page, and you should find it.

There's really no reason to set that value to anything other than 16A unless where you're going to plug your level 1 EVSE in, it's 10A is more than the total of what else is on that circuit, and would cause the breaker to trip. The X5 (and any PHEV or EV), doesn't pull more current than the device says it has, and in this case, it's 10A, regardless of what you put on that menu, but you can restrict it to a lower number if you think it might pop the breaker.

Electrical code says you should protect the wiring by restricting an EVSE's output to NGT 80% of the maximum circuit capacity, so on a typical 15A breaker, that would be 12A. 10A was chosen to give a little buffer if it was in the garage to account for the garage door opener and lights so that you didn't pop the breaker when you tried to close the door. Older ones initially came with a 12A device, and people complained, so they changed the supplied on to a 10A unit.

Note, since it is a fairly high load, you want to make sure that the socket you plug it into is in good shape...the plug should be TIGHT going in. IF it's loose, replace it, ideally with a commercial grade one that has better terminals in it, otherwise, some have actually melted things because the loose connection got hot because the resistance was high, like a heating element, resistance causes heat to be generated as the power flows through it.

I'll have to swap the outlets when electrician arrives to install L2 charger. Probably a good idea to do at the same time, those things are old looking at them.

[LAKERS333]

Originally Posted by jad03060

Each EVSE has a maximum output it can produce. It sends a signal (called the pilot signal) to the vehicle, and it is then up to the vehicle to never try to pull more than the device says it has. It's up to you, when plugging in the EVSE, or hard wiring one, to make sure what the device is capable of, is safe, otherwise, you may overheat the wiring TO the EVSE.

The supplied EVSE is a 10A device, so one would never expect to see more than 10A coming out of it, regardless of what is set in the vehicle (unless you told the car to use less).

If you buy a 32, 40, 50 A EVSE, regardless, this vehicle would still get the pilot signal, know what was available, but since internally, it can't use more than 16A, it would pull up to that, not the larger amount. A larger EVSE would probably help on your next PHEV or EV, that likely will be able to utilize more input. But, all you need is a device that can provide 16A at 232vac or greater input power to maximize the charging potential of the X5 45e. Power = volts * amps, and the max the 45e will draw is 3700W.

I did just now notice a light flickering in the house that is attached close to the garage. Any recommendations there? Any safety issues to worry about?

[mlurker]

Originally Posted by LAKERS333

I did just now notice a light flickering in the house that is attached close to the garage. Any recommendations there? Any safer issues to worry about?

Should not be a problem. Since the car is drawing 10 apms from 15 Amp outlet.
Anyway better to install 50 amp/240V outlet and connect L2 charger. That will give you up to 6 hours charging time. Couldn't do faster unfortunately.

[jad03060]

If the lights are flickering, you may have a loose connection. Suggest you may want to have the electrician check things out when he comes to install your L2 EVSE.

IF the screw connections to devices weren't properly torqued, the heating/cooling that occurs when you have a high current load can cause the screws to loosen over time from the expansion/contraction.

[Silver64]

What’s the fastest time a 16A 110 circuit can charge the 45e… I have a 20A circuit? Trying to decide if it’s worth it to upgrade the EVSE to a 16A capable L1/2 EVSE or go full L2. $200 for the 16A L1/2 no circuit upgrade, probably $1500 to go full L2.

[LAKERS333]

Originally Posted by Silver64

What’s the fastest time a 16A 110 circuit can charge the 45e… I have a 20A circuit? Trying to decide if it’s worth it to upgrade the EVSE to a 16A capable L1/2 EVSE or go full L2. $200 for the 16A L1/2 no circuit upgrade, probably $1500 to go full L2.

It's been slow for me as I have been charging on 10a max, and that seems to take 15-16 hours. For me it's not worth the time and that is why I would rather go the L2 route. It doesn't work for me to wait that long for a full charge as compared to 6.5 hrs with L2.

[nZtiZia]

Originally Posted by Silver64

What's the fastest time a 16A 110 circuit can charge the 45e… I have a 20A circuit?

do you have a 110V or 120V circuit?

0-100% charge for a U.S. 45e (17.1kWh):
16A on 110V (~1.76kW**) = 10h 48m
16A on 120V (~1.92kW**) = 9h 54m

**you're limited to the max kW rating on the specific EVSE

[taek]

Originally Posted by Silver64

Trying to decide if it’s worth it to upgrade the EVSE to a 16A capable L1/2 EVSE or go full L2. $200 for the 16A L1/2 no circuit upgrade, probably $1500 to go full L2.

I also have a 20A panel. I went L2 anyway.

The EV electricians said even though my panel is rated for 20A and so I could draw 16A in theory, the wiring to the garage was never made for 16 hours of 16A power, every day. So even drawing 16A level 1, I would need a wiring upgrade. Most houses were not expecting that kind of power draw to the garage for that length of time 365 days a year. Wiring to garages were often expected to power lights and a garage opener occasionally.

So to be safe, I should limit it to 10-12A. I wouldn't be surprised that this is why BMW only supplies a 10A charger with the car by default. I did not want the anxiety of constantly thinking about if I'm drawing too much power at 16 amps over these thin garage wires. I want to plug my car in & forget about it. After the fact, I certainly don't regret being able to fully charge the vehicle in 5 hours instead of 12+. It's been useful.

Also, the EVSE installation and upgrade should be partially covered by tax incentives. Federal incentives, but my state also covers it as well.

[nZtiZia]

Originally Posted by taek

The EV electricians said even though my panel is rated for 20A and so I could draw 16A in theory, the wiring to the garage was never made for 16 hours of 16A power, every day. So even drawing 16A level 1, I would need a wiring upgrade.

very good point here! take note Silver64

[Silver64]

Originally Posted by taek

I also have a 20A panel. I went L2 anyway.

The EV electricians said even though my panel is rated for 20A and so I could draw 16A in theory, the wiring to the garage was never made for 16 hours of 16A power, every day. So even drawing 16A level 1, I would need a wiring upgrade. Most houses were not expecting that kind of power draw to the garage for that length of time 365 days a year. Wiring to garages were often expected to power lights and a garage opener occasionally.

So to be safe, I should limit it to 10-12A. I wouldn't be surprised that this is why BMW only supplies a 10A charger with the car by default. I did not want the anxiety of constantly thinking about if I'm drawing too much power at 16 amps over these thin garage wires. I want to plug my car in & forget about it. After the fact, I certainly don't regret being able to fully charge the vehicle in 5 hours instead of 12+. It's been useful.

Also, the EVSE installation and upgrade should be partially covered by tax incentives. Federal incentives, but my state also covers it as well.

That’s the exact type of feedback I wanted to get… I’m not a daily driver, but want to be able to charge my 45e at home as quickly as possible. My first charge from 0 miles was over 24 hrs, 1/2 at 6A, the balance at 10A. I haven’t driven since that charge, summer tires, cold and snow in NoVA (all season wheel & tire setup coming tomorrow ). I want to prepare for the smartest solution, which seems like going 240 & full L2 is the way to go.

[Silver64]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

do you have a 110V or 120V circuit?

0-100% charge for a U.S. 45e (17.1kWh):
16A on 110V (~1.76kW**) = 10h 48m
16A on 120V (~1.92kW**) = 9h 54m

**you're limited to the max kW rating on the specific EVSE

120… slight typo there. Thanks for both!

[allinon72]

Originally Posted by taek

I also have a 20A panel. I went L2 anyway.

The EV electricians said even though my panel is rated for 20A and so I could draw 16A in theory, the wiring to the garage was never made for 16 hours of 16A power, every day. So even drawing 16A level 1, I would need a wiring upgrade. Most houses were not expecting that kind of power draw to the garage for that length of time 365 days a year. Wiring to garages were often expected to power lights and a garage opener occasionally.

So to be safe, I should limit it to 10-12A. I wouldn't be surprised that this is why BMW only supplies a 10A charger with the car by default. I did not want the anxiety of constantly thinking about if I'm drawing too much power at 16 amps over these thin garage wires. I want to plug my car in & forget about it. After the fact, I certainly don't regret being able to fully charge the vehicle in 5 hours instead of 12+. It's been useful.

Also, the EVSE installation and upgrade should be partially covered by tax incentives. Federal incentives, but my state also covers it as well.

By code, a 20a circuit has to be run with 12-3 wire. That can run a 16a charger without issue, wiring wise.

[jad03060]

Power=volts*amps. So, to maximize the amount of power, you can either increase the amps or increase the voltage, but the limiting factor on the 45e is 16A. But, if you move from a 120vac device capable of 20A, because a 240V device capable of the same amperage, you'd get double the amount of power delivered to the vehicle.

For future proofing, it makes sense to probably bite the bullet and put in a larger level 2 device than the 45e can currently maximize...this will in no way be dangerous to the EVSE or the vehicle, since the vehicle won't pull more than it can use, or what the EVSE says it has, if that's lower.

There's no reason to set 10A on the vehicle for your level 1 EVSE UNLESS, 10A would overload your wiring. IF it's the only thing on the circuit, it should not be an issue. If it's powering lights, maybe the garage door opener, and then you plug in a power saw, or vacuum cleaner, you might pop the breaker, and lowering the amount the vehicle is drawing makes sense. FOr a transient load like that, it might be just easier to unplug the X5, then put it back on when you're done vacuuming the vehicle. Some vacuums can draw a lot of amps, and can some saws, or other power tools. Many garages only have one circuit that might be 15 or maybe 20A. Some people plug a freezer into that circuit, and charging your vehicle, even at 6A may be too much when its compressor turns on. On a critical load, it's always better to have a dedicated circuit for it if possible.

My panel was power limited, but I was able to install a 30A EVSE (on a 40A circuit) years ago...for a full recharge using it (being a level 2 device), a bit over 5-hours, depending on temperature. When it's hot, it might slow down, and use more power for cooling in the process.

[ewizzle]

Originally Posted by Silver64

What’s the fastest time a 16A 110 circuit can charge the 45e… I have a 20A circuit? Trying to decide if it’s worth it to upgrade the EVSE to a 16A capable L1/2 EVSE or go full L2. $200 for the 16A L1/2 no circuit upgrade, probably $1500 to go full L2.

I made this chart to help. Really depends if you want to charge fast or slow and if you think it's worth the $1,500. L2 charger does cut the charge time in half over the 16a @ 110v/120v.