[fastboatster]

I’m doing (not really necessary) cooling system overhaul and threw out a bunch of perfectly fine coolant hoses. I’m trying to replace the steel pipe/ coolant hose piece which goes from the block to the wp. Access seems tight, I can only see one bolt holding it to the block, I know there are 2. From what I read, many people skip this hose when doing cooling system overhaul, do we know how to replace it? The official repair info doesn’t mention needing to remove the exhaust manifold or other stuff, but I’m not too sure. Has anyone done this before, I’d hate to do it incompletely and render the system only as good as the oldest cooling hose rendering replacement of expensive plastic coolant pipe which runs across the subframe essentially useless and wasteful.

[3PedalJake]

That bolt is easiest to get to from underneath, you can see it by looking up from the wheel well over the tie rod boot. I did mine the other day while the subframe was out, that is easiest. You don't need to replace the steel pipe, just the rubber hose end and the o-ring that's in the block end.

[fastboatster]

Thanks, looks like I just need to remove the wheel and it should be a straight shot with long extension. Yes, planning to replace the rubber hose, oring and rubberized steel “flange”

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by fastboatster

Thanks, looks like I just need to remove the wheel and it should be a straight shot with long extension. Yes, planning to replace the rubber hose, oring and rubberized steel “flange”

You'll have to remove the belly pan, you'll be accessing it from an area that it covers. That's what I used a long 1/4" wobble extension, tho it's a pretty strait shot didn't really need the wobble.

[fastboatster]

Didn’t replace it today, wobble extensions would def work and probably wouldn’t affect tightening torque too much but I just decided not to replace it because I spent too much time looking for a “clear shot” with regular extensions. I regretted that I replaced one ac compressor bolt I loosened before when removing the WP. I think it would have been possible to easily replace that pipe with ac compressor unbolted and shoved to the side, too bad I used up one of the 3 ac compressor bolt kit fasteners. But I guess on the bright side I got the WP, Tsat bolted back and hooked all the hoses up

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by fastboatster

Didn’t replace it today, wobble extensions would def work and probably wouldn’t affect tightening torque too much but I just decided not to replace it because I spent too much time looking for a “clear shot” with regular extensions. I regretted that I replaced one ac compressor bolt I loosened before when removing the WP. I think it would have been possible to easily replace that pipe with ac compressor unbolted and shoved to the side, too bad I used up one of the 3 ac compressor bolt kit fasteners. But I guess on the bright side I got the WP, Tsat bolted back and hooked all the hoses up

I've replaced it twice once on a 206k engine and now on a 186k engine, both times with the subframe out for OPG which makes it easy to reach right up there, and TBH the o-ring was probably fine on both, a little flat but still sealing well. The rubber hose end at the water pump wasn't in such good condition, pretty soft and belled out but if your hose looked alright you're probably good to go.

[fastboatster]

Yeah, maybe I’ll replace it in the next 60kmiles. I only got 120kmiles, that hose doesn’t look nearly as bad as yours. In all fairness, I probably should have replaced tstat to cylinder head hose with Mickey Mouse fitting and that probably should have been it since I replaced both radiator hoses already and replaced the expansion tank hose maybe a year and a half ago. All the other hoses including heater lines looked very good. I probably didn’t need to replace tstat and wp either, they probably would hold for at least another 30kmiles. Wasteful.

[Efthreeoh]

Here's the method I used (from my coolant hose DIY):

Engine Block to Water Pump –bolts to block and uses a hose clamp for other end: You will need to use a ¼ drive ratchet and at least an 18 inch extension bar and 1/4 –drive u-joint (flex joint) to remove the bolts (E-10 E-Torx) for the hard steel pipe side. You need to fish up through the steering rack and engine mount to get to the bolts. The bottom bolt is easy, the top is a bit harder. These bolts do not take much tightening torque so they remove very easily.