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Need help 2007 N54 cylinder 6 super knocking
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11-04-2020, 10:26 PM | #1 |
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Need help 2007 N54 cylinder 6 super knocking
Ok here is the story.
I go out to harbor freight this morning to get a low profile floor jack. Turn on the car, works perfectly no problems. I head to the gas station "frys fuel center" and fill up on 91oct. Not all the way full. Like 10 gallons or so. This is my second time filling up there when I usually fill up at Chevron. I start the car and it cranks for a second then stops. I'm sitting there like "huh wtf just happened" I try again and nothing, no crank just nothing. The dash lights up for the ignition turning on but thats it. I give it a minute and try it multiple times with the same results every time. I hook up mhd and check the dme codes. All I get are 30F2 Superknocking, cylinder 6. I have not checked the codes in about a week so im not even sure if it happened right then while I was driving or a long time ago. Had to get my car towed back home into the garage. Now here I am sitting in the garage. I tried to jump the car no avail, pulled the coils and looked into the sparkplug hole, no oil or anything. I will pull the sparkplugs tomorrow just to check. I looked at my injectors and all around my engine. No oil leaks or anything of that sort. Also I noticed my injectors are from cylinder (1-6) = (1) index 12, (2-4) index 3, and on cylinder (6) is a index 8. I don't smell any fuel leaking out or any liquid in there at all. I was running MHD stage 2 v9 on 91oct with a xhp stage 3 transmission tune. I have downpipes, charge pipe with tial bov, and dci. The car has 77k miles and tomorrow I was about to go stage 2+ with a new intercooler. But now its being put on hold. Not sure if its my starter or my hpfp IDK how to check but I press the brakes and while the key is in I press the start button and all I hear is the fuel pump. No crank nothing. But I also never had a problem starting the car until then. Please if anyone has any ideas on how to fix it I would really appreciate it. I don't mind replacing plugs, coils, batt, etc. At this point I will try anything that is somewhat DIYable. I will try to flash to the stage 0 map and remove spark plugs tomorrow. Ill check this forum as much as I can. Just need people to help guide me to the right solution. I also put the picture of the dme codes that I got off mhd |
11-04-2020, 11:19 PM | #2 |
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Update*
Reading around people have said this could happen because of a lower octane rating. I might try to get some e85 and pour in a gallon and see what happens when I increase octane.
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11-04-2020, 11:26 PM | #3 |
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My first thought, considering the circumstances, is water in the fuel. Doesn't make sense to me that it wouldn't allow the starter to crank, but...
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11-05-2020, 01:26 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Maybe everything just wanted to fail on me all at once Tomorrow i'm going to grab a new battery just incase its a battery problem. I heard about gas stations having water in their gas and or water building up. Now i'm kind of scared because that would have spread to every single thing in my engine. Should I pump out my gas and fill it with some gas from chevron and a gallon of e85 to make sure it runs better? I've usually filled up at chevron without a single problem besides price I also forgot to mention that I was pretty low on gas had like 60 miles left on the tank. So about 80% of the tank is filled with suspected watergas from the fry's fuel station. If it is water in the tank... I'm gonna have to do some explaining to my dad when he told me not to gas there because they had low quality 91 Guess more expensive does mean better fuel I might try to put some Dry gas into the fuel tank to fix it maybe.... I don't really know how to even start to fix it if any water entered my injectors please God I hope it didnt Last edited by aarongalve; 11-05-2020 at 04:49 AM.. |
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11-05-2020, 11:24 AM | #5 |
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update**
Saw someone talking about tapping the starter with a stick to see if it would work one last time.
About to try to tap my starter to see if I can get it to crank at least once. |
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11-05-2020, 01:14 PM | #6 |
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That can work if it's the starter and depending on what's wrong with it. Usually carbon buildup on the stator/brushes, corrosion and/or long term lack of use can sometimes be freed up by some "light" taps using a blunt object.
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11-05-2020, 01:31 PM | #7 |
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I started tapping it while my dad turned it on. The starter started to click then stop clicking after a couple more tries. Does this mean its dead? Gonna buy a new one anyways. Already started to remove my chargepipe and I'm about to remove the intake and look for carbon build up.
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11-05-2020, 02:13 PM | #8 |
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Have you checked battery voltage on the big wire at the starter? It could be a bunch of things, like weak battery, loose/corroded connection, failed ground...
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11-05-2020, 02:15 PM | #9 |
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I'm about to remove the intake rn. The battery was reading 12.5v so its not dead, I will check the starter voltage after I remove this damn intake manifold
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11-05-2020, 03:46 PM | #11 |
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11-05-2020, 06:59 PM | #12 |
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Big Update
Ok intake manifold off!!!! Holy my first time doing it in my life took me 6 hours...
Small big problem black death everywhere! jesus christ i'm about to spread the plague 2020. All of my intake valves covered in T H I C C black carbon. I touched the manifold and its covered in it too... Im about to remove the starter right now or maybe tomorrow morning. Any tips on how to check if the starter is still good or not? Also can someone in AZ come down and walnut blast my shit please i'm too scared to even touch it at this point. Or if there is another way to clean everything without walnut blasting it away please give me some tips. Anyways I put up some pictures of everything! |
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11-05-2020, 08:13 PM | #13 | |
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walnut blast
Quote:
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11-05-2020, 09:07 PM | #15 | |
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Also when I first start the car should I add some octane booster to help it out? |
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11-05-2020, 10:28 PM | #16 |
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On your starter, you've got 2 wires. 1 big and 1 small. Use a screwdriver or a piece of wire to jump between those 2. This should engage the starter.
Obviously make sure the car is in park, or neutral if MT, before jumping the starter. This also isn't a fool proof diagnosis if the starter does not engage. If it does engage and sounds healthy, than your starter is fine and something else is the issue - power/ground/crank signal. If it does not engage, then it could still be power/ground. As mentioned, you can go the chemical route to clean your valves. My experience with that was not favorable, others claim it worked for them. It's also messy and no, you cannot clean cylinders that have valves open. |
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11-05-2020, 10:47 PM | #17 | |
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11-05-2020, 10:54 PM | #18 |
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Yes on plugging the battery back in. The big wire comes from the battery and always has power on it. The small wire is the crank signal from the car. Essentially what you're doing is passing voltage from the always on big wire to the small trigger wire. Remove the small wire connector so you have easy access to the connector, it doesn't need to be connected for this test and is likely best that it is disconnected. Doing this is the same thing as those starter button things people use to crank the engine while working on it, like cleaning the valves.
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11-05-2020, 11:25 PM | #19 | |
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11-06-2020, 09:52 AM | #21 |
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11-06-2020, 10:15 AM | #22 |
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Update* tried doing the wire jump on the starter nothing but a spark. I hit that shit a couple of times and I got the starter to click then the click dissapears after 2-3 more tries until I hit it again.
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