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      09-10-2020, 11:16 AM   #1
killit
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2014 328i starting issue

For the past several weeks from time to time I've had a weird issue starting the car.

(115k miles 2nd owner @30k miles) (auto)

The car acts like it is struggling to turn over and quickly stops trying. Up until a day ago. It only happened about once every ten starts. And when it did I would wait a second and try again and it would fire right back up like normal.

Yesterday I had 2 consecutive sluggish start fails before getting it going and driving to work (~58 miles). After work one fail & fired right up. Once started there are no issues.

Today I thought for sure I was stranded when I stopped for fuel. It took about ten tries to get it to run. But when I left in the morning no issue. I'm at work now and dreading getting off and being stuck.

I ordered the starter and it's ready to be picked up but it's a hell of a task to change... was wondering if any of you gurus here could give any incite / opinions on what you think the problem is. I would've been certain it was the battery considering the sluggish attempts when it does fail but everything I know about a failed battery would say it wouldn't get better with more start attempts. However I would much rather take on the task of changing the battery instead of the starter!

Thanks in advance guys
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      09-10-2020, 01:49 PM   #2
jared21927
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Starting problems can be a variety of things, but this seems like a classic case of Occam's Razor. It's probably the starter.
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      09-10-2020, 03:09 PM   #3
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If a major component failed (like the starter)... you would more than likely have codes stored. I don't believe it's a good idea to expensive throw parts at a BMW without pulling codes first. You might get lucky but then again, you might not.
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      09-10-2020, 03:24 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
If a major component failed (like the starter)... you would more than likely have codes stored. I don't believe it's a good idea to expensive throw parts at a BMW without pulling codes first. You might get lucky but then again, you might not.
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If a major component failed (like the starter)... you would more than likely have codes stored. I don't believe it's a good idea to expensive throw parts at a BMW without pulling codes first. You might get lucky but then again, you might not.
I definitely agree... I have the scanner at the house and if I can get it to start this evening when I get off I'll definitely check it out
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      09-10-2020, 09:02 PM   #5
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It still could be a battery issue. If the battery is installed new and properly coded, then they are good for 4 to 5 years more or less. If the battery is either not new or not coded properly to the car, you start to get electrical issues as the battery gets older. You can search the forums to read more about it. Not sure where you are but in the US, most auto parts stores can run a basic check of the battery and the alternator. Not sure of the starter can be done.
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      09-10-2020, 09:13 PM   #6
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Got her started and Made it home. Didn't feel like digging around for obd2 scanner but got a video of what I was describing.


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      09-12-2020, 04:02 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
It still could be a battery issue. If the battery is installed new and properly coded, then they are good for 4 to 5 years more or less. If the battery is either not new or not coded properly to the car, you start to get electrical issues as the battery gets older. You can search the forums to read more about it. Not sure where you are but in the US, most auto parts stores can run a basic check of the battery and the alternator. Not sure of the starter can be done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
It still could be a battery issue. If the battery is installed new and properly coded, then they are good for 4 to 5 years more or less. If the battery is either not new or not coded properly to the car, you start to get electrical issues as the battery gets older. You can search the forums to read more about it. Not sure where you are but in the US, most auto parts stores can run a basic check of the battery and the alternator. Not sure of the starter can be done.
100% the issue... I was almost certain it wasn't the battery but I took it out last night and hauled it in to an auto parts store. Sure enough that was the problem. Got home dropped it in and car feels better than ever!

Thank you guys so much for your input! Now I've got to figure out how to code / get this thing coded!
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      09-12-2020, 07:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killit View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
It still could be a battery issue. If the battery is installed new and properly coded, then they are good for 4 to 5 years more or less. If the battery is either not new or not coded properly to the car, you start to get electrical issues as the battery gets older. You can search the forums to read more about it. Not sure where you are but in the US, most auto parts stores can run a basic check of the battery and the alternator. Not sure of the starter can be done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
It still could be a battery issue. If the battery is installed new and properly coded, then they are good for 4 to 5 years more or less. If the battery is either not new or not coded properly to the car, you start to get electrical issues as the battery gets older. You can search the forums to read more about it. Not sure where you are but in the US, most auto parts stores can run a basic check of the battery and the alternator. Not sure of the starter can be done.
100% the issue... I was almost certain it wasn't the battery but I took it out last night and hauled it in to an auto parts store. Sure enough that was the problem. Got home dropped it in and car feels better than ever!

Thank you guys so much for your input! Now I've got to figure out how to code / get this thing coded!
Awesome! Glad to hear it.
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      09-12-2020, 09:17 AM   #9
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Glad to hear you got things sorted.

So in summary... you purchased a starter online because you didn't feel like pulling codes or getting your battery checked?!

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      09-12-2020, 01:47 PM   #10
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Hey so I just wanted to make sure, that you have the battery coded. Every battery change even if it is the exact same has to be coded in some way.
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      09-14-2020, 04:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
Hey so I just wanted to make sure, that you have the battery coded. Every battery change even if it is the exact same has to be coded in some way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
Hey so I just wanted to make sure, that you have the battery coded. Every battery change even if it is the exact same has to be coded in some way.
I have not... I was trying to get Carly to sync with my obd2 scanner but no luck 😫
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      09-14-2020, 04:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killit View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
Hey so I just wanted to make sure, that you have the battery coded. Every battery change even if it is the exact same has to be coded in some way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
Hey so I just wanted to make sure, that you have the battery coded. Every battery change even if it is the exact same has to be coded in some way.
I have not... I was trying to get Carly to sync with my obd2 scanner but no luck
Oh ok gotcha. So if the new battery is identical to the specifications of the one it replaced, I think carly is ok. I believe that procedure is just a reset. But if the battery specs are different, it has to be programmed which I am noy sure carly can do.
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      09-14-2020, 04:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by killit View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
Hey so I just wanted to make sure, that you have the battery coded. Every battery change even if it is the exact same has to be coded in some way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
Hey so I just wanted to make sure, that you have the battery coded. Every battery change even if it is the exact same has to be coded in some way.
I have not... I was trying to get Carly to sync with my obd2 scanner but no luck
Oh ok gotcha. So if the new battery is identical to the specifications of the one it replaced, I think carly is ok. I believe that procedure is just a reset. But if the battery specs are different, it has to be programmed which I am noy sure carly can do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by killit View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
Hey so I just wanted to make sure, that you have the battery coded. Every battery change even if it is the exact same has to be coded in some way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by helix247 View Post
Hey so I just wanted to make sure, that you have the battery coded. Every battery change even if it is the exact same has to be coded in some way.
I have not... I was trying to get Carly to sync with my obd2 scanner but no luck
Oh ok gotcha. So if the new battery is identical to the specifications of the one it replaced, I think carly is ok. I believe that procedure is just a reset. But if the battery specs are different, it has to be programmed which I am noy sure carly can do.
According to the guy at the auto parts store he said it was a direct replacement identical specs
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      09-14-2020, 05:25 PM   #14
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You'll still need to code it. If you can't get Carly to do it, do you have bimmerlink?
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      09-14-2020, 09:15 PM   #15
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You don't code the battery, you register it. If you don't the car doesn't know it's a new battery, so it will over-charge it, which will reduce the battery life.
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      09-15-2020, 04:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
You don't code the battery, you register it. If you don't the car doesn't know it's a new battery, so it will over-charge it, which will reduce the battery life.
From what I understand, there might be two scenarios

Replacement battery is same specifications as original, but is new. Requires update to charging profile.

Replacement battery is different in specifications than original, Requires modification of charging profile.

In both cases, do we just refer to the process as registration of the new battery?
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      09-15-2020, 04:23 PM   #17
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If a replacement battery isn't the same as or very close to the original amp hour rating then you have to code to the nearest amp hour rating possible. In either case the battery must be registered, which is a different process from coding. Bimmercode, for instance, will do the former but not the latter. My Foxwell NT510 will do the latter, but not the former.
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      09-15-2020, 04:56 PM   #18
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Sorry. I meant register
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      09-15-2020, 05:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
If a replacement battery isn't the same as or very close to the original amp hour rating then you have to code to the nearest amp hour rating possible. In either case the battery must be registered, which is a different process from coding. Bimmercode, for instance, will do the former but not the latter. My Foxwell NT510 will do the latter, but not the former.
Thats what I thought. My goal for anyone looking at the thread was to be aware of what needed to be done and the proper tools to use.
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