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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > crank, no start after vcg and vacuum parts change



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      04-19-2020, 12:43 PM   #1
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crank, no start after vcg and vacuum parts change

After priming fuel pump multiple time and more cranking/priming car still not starting. 335d, deleted with JR 2.8. This was routine maintenance since over 150k miles and small oil leak on rear of engine. Protools only showing dashboard voltage code a559. I'm assuming codes would show if I forgot to connect something.
I cracked the fuel line nuts expecting fuel during priming, but none. However I'm getting fuel from the return lines. Is this normal? Any ideas?
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      04-19-2020, 06:38 PM   #2
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So I've activated the fuel pump at least 50 times using Pro Tool and Foxwell scanners, and cranking dozens of times. Still no start. I'm sure I have all electrical connections right or there should be a code. Could I have gotten something so wrong with the vacuum system that would cause this? I know crank/no start is a common issue doing this kind of stuff, but this just seems like something else has to be wrong.
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      04-20-2020, 02:00 PM   #3
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Let me know how it goes, I'm in the same boat. Replaced vcg and can't get it to start now (e70 m57). Have run the fuel pump in ISTA at least 10 times and not much fuel pressure in the rail when cranking. I too suspect air in the fuel lines.
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      04-20-2020, 02:42 PM   #4
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Are you getting any codes?
You say "Not much rail pressure". How much? I'm getting zero.
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      04-20-2020, 02:53 PM   #5
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The problem seems to be hpfp not activating or too much air in rail.
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      04-20-2020, 03:04 PM   #6
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Here's what I've done so far in addition to the above.
1. put vacuum to hardline on cylinder 1. After 5, 5 second cranks got about 40ml of fuel. Slowly release vacuum letting the fuel flow back to keep as much air out of the rail. Resecured the line.
2. loosened #6 injector nut while cranking. Tighten back at end of crank. I'm getting some fuel out after 2-3 cranks.
3. Still no start. Moving to #3 injector nut. So far 3 cranks, but no fuel.
4. Rail pressure on my Pro Tool still shows zero during cranking.
5. I also reset my CAS in case it lost communication with the DDE causing the hpfp to not activate. I had no code for this, but was worth a shot.
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      04-20-2020, 04:06 PM   #7
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No, no codes. I thought I was getting up to 20 psi originally, but think that's a bug in the BimmerTool lite app (was alternating between 0-20 psi just sitting). Was using this since it's free and connects quicker than the carly app. But after checking with carly I was getting 0 psi during cranking. Haven't tried to bleed it with my hand vac yet. That's my next plan when I feel like going back in the garage.
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      04-20-2020, 06:31 PM   #8
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I would start at #2 first. If you can't get fuel after say 5 cranks, then try the mighty vac on injector 1 hard line.
I worked my way from injector 6 and worked my way down to 1. A couple times I didn't loosen the nut enough to tell if fuel was there. After getting fuel to all injectors cranking for 5-10 seconds it still didn't crank and rail pressure showed zero. Before quitting for the day to let the car charge overnight I gave it one more crank and after about 10 seconds it fired up. Then the dance started, LOL.
I had a 125 amp charger on my battery all day or I wouldn't have been able crank so many times.
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      04-23-2020, 11:14 AM   #9
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Finally got it started at least. Put the mighty vac on the hard line of #1 and used ISTA to run lpfp until I had a good stream coming out. Then quickly put the injector line back. Repeated for 2 and 3, the put intake back on and cranked. Took a min or two still to get it to fire up. Then took it on a good 15 min drive on the highway. Runs as it did before. Only issue is it is still difficult to start after it's been turned off. I'm assuming I haven't gotten all the air out and probably need to re-bleed but do all 6 this time.
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      04-24-2020, 06:10 PM   #10
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Mistercamp, I'm interested in which job you ran on ISTA+. I had no issues with restarting the car after the VCG replacement running the "Bleeding, fuel system" job. First it ran the LPFP for 3 minutes then asked to start the engine. It cranked for about 30 seconds until I stopped it by pressing the Start/Stop. Then I tried again and it fired up after about 10 second crank. The job asked to run the car for about 10 minutes to fully bleed the fuel system. Everything was fine after that.
Here's the job I selected:
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      04-25-2020, 03:19 PM   #11
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Interesting, didn't realize that was in there. Thanks for pointing that out. The job I ran was in VEHICLE MANAGEMENT TAB>SERVICE FUNCTIONS>POWERTRAIN>Activating the suction jet pump transfer function>ABL Electronic fuel pump activation. That seems to just run the lpfp for like 20 seconds as opposed to the 3 minutes with the Bleeding, fuel system. I did get it starting correctly though. The issue ended up being the crank position sensor connector was not fully seated. Not sure why I didn't get a code at first or how it even started, but it did log a code eventually which prompted me to check all my connections again. After audibly hearing it click into place, easy peasy starting.
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      04-26-2020, 05:43 PM   #12
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I had same issue when I had swapped out motor. Turns out I was 1/4 turn off the fuel injector 4 or 5. As its difficult to tighten without stressing the plastic return line. ( mot sure what it's called). My clue was the fuel pressure wasn't building and read off the carly.
I ended up connecting compressed air to line 1 and under pressure could hear hissing from hard line 5.

Also had very little fuel come out of the hard lines when I cracked em.
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      04-27-2020, 03:08 PM   #13
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if you are having trouble loosening or tightening the hardlines to the injectors i would recommend this tool> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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      05-03-2020, 01:50 AM   #14
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You should not need to loosen high pressure line. As Mik posted, run a proper job in ISTA to bleed as it also activated the PCV to bleed to rail. Then, make sure you have good power supply connected and your battery is fully charged and you should get it fired up on second or third crank.
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