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'07 328i cranks but no start
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01-23-2020, 02:39 PM | #1 |
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'07 328i cranks but no start
Engine died and will not restart. Cranks fine, will not fire. I have tried the following:
powered the fuel pump directly from battery. Pump runs, no change. Disconnected MAF sensor. No change. So, next would be to connect my computer so I can read real codes. Tow truck coming soon. Anyone have any other easy things to try? Or just suggestions on what to check. My son (his car) complained about rough running and hunting idle. Engine died a few times prior to no start. |
01-23-2020, 03:15 PM | #2 |
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Stupid question.....it's got gas it in right? Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then trying to start it? Good charge on the battery?
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01-23-2020, 03:41 PM | #3 |
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Yes, half tank. Battery was disconnected while installing jumper wires directly to pump. Battery is weak from all the cranking, but jumped to another car that is running so voltage should be good.
EWS issue? Crankshaft sensor? My experience with crankshaft sensor is some advanced warning. Fuel pump does not run unless power applied directly...does this point to anti-theft issue? I should probably check DME fuse(s) next. |
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01-23-2020, 04:51 PM | #5 |
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You should be monitoring your alternator and battery voltages.
If you have depleted the battery put a long slow charge on it. If it is over 6 years old it's time to think about a replacement. Don't try to trouble shoot these cars with a weak battery or you will chase your tail. List motor type N51 or N52 . N51's are noted to have a problem where the fuel lines in the Gas Tank disconnect. This will not show any codes but there will be no fuel pressure. Gas Pump is in the Tank pretty dangerous to jump it at the pump. |
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01-23-2020, 07:16 PM | #6 |
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There are a hundred different reasons why it might not start... blown fuse, fried DME, clogged exhaust, damaged injector or ignition wiring, failed cam or crank sensors, failed valvetronic actuator, lack of oil causing damaged top end, insufficiently charged battery, failed battery -> dme wiring terminal under the battery, etc...
step one is to hook up a scan tool, preferably a BMW-specific tool or INPA/ISTA+
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01-23-2020, 08:13 PM | #7 |
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My issue was cam and crank sensors but it would just stall on me. It would shake bad only when on startups.
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01-23-2020, 08:14 PM | #8 |
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Got my old INPA working lots of faults. Cleared and CAS A0B4 persisted. JBBF code persisted. No others. Can activate fuel pump with INPA so I think this rules out pump. Fuses good, relays good.
Need to check battery/electrical connections as suggested. My son report low oil warning prior to issue. Oil level indicated said oil full. Might need to check compression. When connection Underwood battery terminals to my 550i, the v]cables got very hot...says poor connection to me. My battery charger keeps shutting down as if overloaded. Again, maybe poor connection somewhere. No DME faults. Key seems to be recognized. I want to replace crank sensor...might have a spare lying around somewhere. Oh, not sure how jumping fuel pump is dangerous. 12v is 12v no matter how it is applied |
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01-23-2020, 08:42 PM | #10 |
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well that sure is a weird one!
cables getting hot, depends on the cables whether its a problem... key on engine off, these cars will pull 40-50 amps, which can cause thinner cables to get hot and some battery chargers to shut down (my basic sears one doesn't like it, the big snap-on isn't phased by it) compression is worth checking. I think A0B4 fires with starter/crank issues as a side effect, the car saying 'hey, it didn't start'. I got that when my starter had failed and it just clicked. JBBF though could mess up a lot of stuff, if one of the terminals isn't turning on, or wrong signals sent out... what code is coming back from that?
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01-23-2020, 08:43 PM | #11 |
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Also try disconnecting the IBS connectors at the battery, I've heard it can cause no start (though it usually throws a code)
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01-24-2020, 07:34 AM | #13 |
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01-24-2020, 07:38 AM | #14 | |
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This afternoon I will pull battery and check every related connection/terminal. Jumper cables are fairly long and of a smaller gauge...could be the issue. But, the battery charger is a different animal...electronics asleep and it still shuts down after a few minutes. I will charge the battery when it is out of the car to see if there is a difference. Could be my electronic charger acting up. I believe it is a 20amp or greater...cannot fully recall. UPDATE: Pulled battery and was able to charge normally with my 30/100amp electronic charger. So, maybe there is a high resistance somewhere between battery compartment and engine bay. All electrical connectors in battery compartment are clean/tight. Last edited by David3; 01-24-2020 at 01:56 PM.. |
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01-24-2020, 07:47 AM | #16 |
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My son report shaking on start/idle periodically. I assumed another dead coil. I agree, could be cam or crank sensor. He also had CEL a few days before no start that would clear and return immediately. I believe it was a timing retarded fault. I was going to clean the vanos solenoids, but possibly it is related to bad sensor?
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01-24-2020, 07:51 AM | #17 |
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So, my INPA software and serial interface is old because I do not use it very often as I have generally moved on to F cars. Will my ISTA+/E-sys/ethernet interface work on E cars?
And, thank you to everyone who is trying to help...usually, I do not get this stumped. But, then again, I do not play with this car very much. Almost forgot. The fuel rail does NOT have a schrader valve which surprises me. Last edited by David3; 01-24-2020 at 08:00 AM.. |
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01-24-2020, 07:14 PM | #18 | |
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01-24-2020, 07:44 PM | #19 |
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01-25-2020, 05:47 PM | #20 |
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Update:
Starter replaced...it was smoking after long cranks. Crankshaft position sensor replaced. All to no avail. Compression is 150-180psi in all cylinders. Disconnecting eccentric sensor does nothing. No oil in sensor electrical connector. Starting to suspect key or ews/cas. Cannot sync ews, get cannot communicate with module error in INPA...probably an issue with my version of INPA. Plugs were wet with fuel, so suspect no spark condition. Could trigger injectors, fuel pump, throttle motor. So, presumably I squirted a bit of fuel in cylinders and still o start, tells me no spark. Thoughts? |
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01-26-2020, 12:06 AM | #21 | ||
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01-26-2020, 12:20 AM | #22 | ||||
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0) WHAT is the build month/year of your 2007 328i? Electrical systems, particularly Fuse designations, changed in the middle of 2007 model run, effective 3/1/2007, and I can't provide you with Power Supply circuits for YOUR car without knowing the build date. 1) When Starter is cranking engine, is there ANY sputter/change in RPM or attempt to fire, or does it just crank away with NO change of RPM as if "out of gas"? 2) Have you used "Functional Jobs" to: a) Read Fault Codes in ALL Modules (F4 Fehlerspeicher or Fault Memory), and b) Check F2 Identification to make sure ALL Modules, particularly ADR #12 DME are active? 3) Have you used DME > F4 > F1 > F3 to read DME Fault Memory with Freeze Frame Data? 4) Have you used DME > F4 > F3 > F1 to read "Historyspeicher"? Even if you cleared "Fehlerspeicher", historical record of DME Fault Codes is still present in Historyspeicher. NEVER clear Historyspeicher. 5) Have you looked at TIS circuits for DME Main Relay (K6300) and fuses powering the DME? The K6300 circuit for my 3/14/2007 328xi N52KP is attached as an example of the circuit which MAY be different if YOUR vehicle is EARLY 2007 model. On mine, the FIRST thing I would check is fuse F50 which is needed to power the DME to "turn itself on" by completing the ground circuit to the K6300 relay. THEN I would use a DMM to check voltage at the F78 fuse socket (fuse removed) to make sure the K6300 relay is activating when ignition is ON. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/xGCYTPF 6) Have you tested for 12V+ (or B+) at the power supply wire (Orange wire) at one of the Coil Connectors with Ignition ON? Circuit for LATE 2007 below shows F77 powers the coil primaries, so if NO B+, check that fuse. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nition/x7JApNv 7) Have you tested for B+ at the Orange wire of any Injector Connector with Ignition ON. Injectors are powered by same fuse (F77) as Coil Primaries per this TIS circuit: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ection/x79f54L Finally, here is the F77 circuit of the entire system, EXCEPT it does NOT show F50 that powers the DME BEFORE the DME Relay is active: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...200703/vd3AVGP 8) Have you had the Blower Motor Harness Recall performed on that vehicle, and if so WHEN? There is a possibility that removal of the JB (Junction Box) or fuse panel might have affected one of connectors such as X11010 that affects activation of the DME Relay. After reviewing your findings that the Injectors are powered but suspicion that Coils are NOT, it appears likely that you have an EARLY 2007 model, built BEFORE 3/1/2007, and that has ENTIRELY different setup from my late 2007 model with separate fuse & relay for Injectors, and the components in question, whether relays or fuses, located in the E-box under the hood instead of on the JB Fuse Panel. Here are Coil & Injector circuits for EARLY 2007 model: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nition/oVletnn https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ection/i8vQ1Q3 With the information requested above, we can suggest "next steps" if you don't find the issue by the suggested tests. George |
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