[J0K3R5]

Looking for some info as Im struggling for an answer on this.

I own a e90 320d 2010 with B12 suspension + m3 front wishbones + front eibach roll bar.
Im looking at upgrading the subframe bushes with inserts, but cant find the answer.

Ive contacted whiteline on their product, if it fits my model (KDT918), they never bother getting back to me.

Superpro SPF3944K / SPF3947K claims they fit my car.

So what Im looking for has anyone done this upgrade or knows 100% what inserts fit my model of car.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by J0K3R5

Looking for some info as Im struggling for an answer on this.

I own a e90 320d 2010 with B12 suspension + m3 front wishbones + front eibach roll bar.
Im looking at upgrading the subframe bushes with inserts, but cant find the answer.

Ive contacted whiteline on their product, if it fits my model (KDT918), they never bother getting back to me.

Superpro SPF3944K / SPF3947K claims they fit my car.

So what Im looking for has anyone done this upgrade or knows 100% what inserts fit my model of car.

Go with M3 subframe & differential bushings along with M3 rear control arms. You can replace the bushings in the subframe with Poly type bushings but I wouldn't do it unless you plan on tracking the car. I'd Also add the rear Eibach swaybar while you are in there.

[J0K3R5]

I take its just a straight swap over, I dont need to changed over the rear stopper.

[TiAgAu]

Originally Posted by J0K3R5

I take its just a straight swap over, I dont need to changed over the rear stopper.

Not even a swap over, as in the name just an insert. Have you considered the 032 inserts? obviously stronger than the whiteline and superpro poly ones. I seen a thread where some whiteline inserts get chewed out on the upperlip part can't find the thread for it atm.

Anyway heres the 032Motorsport version

[J0K3R5]

The 034 inserts look good, will look into a bit more.
If I can get something like them in the UK to save postage costs

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by J0K3R5

The 034 inserts look good, will look into a bit more.
If I can get something like them in the UK to save postage costs

Wouldn't use 034. They make really bad engine mounts they crack & break after 3,000 miles

[Soravia]

You're looking at mounts that are metal (OE) with inserts that will fill up the OE hollow rubber.

Where the mount mates the painted metal will have corrosion from trapped moisture and take off body paint. You probably already have some corrosion there. Mine did.

You can drop the frame (supported by jack stands on left and right) and insert them. Be sure to replace the 4 main bolts. Cost $9 each but they are designed to be single use or risk snapping.

Take off the corrosion on body and repaint with self-etching primer and clear coat before you put the frame back into place. A thin film of gasket maker the metal can help reduce the scuffing of paint.

I'd put in some brake grease over the poly inserts to prevent noise against the body metal.

Overall not a difficult job. You can do this while replacing rear anti-sway bars.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by Soravia

You can drop the frame (supported by jack stands on left and right) and insert them. Be sure to replace the 4 main bolts. Cost $9 each but they are designed to be single use or risk snapping.

T.

The 4 main bolts are NOT single use on my 335xi. However, the bolts that hold what are called "compression struts" by ISTA or "push rods" by RealOEM are described as single use by ISTA.

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Go with M3 subframe & differential bushings along with M3 rear control arms. You can replace the bushings in the subframe with Poly type bushings but I wouldn't do it unless you plan on tracking the car. I'd Also add the rear Eibach swaybar while you are in there.

+1

Though an M3 rear sway would probably be just as good, and maybe cheaper.

Oh and replacing the bushings is a pig. I recommend good tools, or pay someone to do it.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

+1

Though an M3 rear sway would probably be just as good, and maybe cheaper.

Oh and replacing the bushings is a pig. I recommend good tools, or pay someone to do it.

Yes, I agree that good/ great tools are a must for this particular job.

I made mine with black pipe & washers grade 8 steel rod & nuts.

You can buy a kit or rent them.

[J0K3R5]

Thanks for the input guys, now on the hunt for tools to remove the bushings.
Most likely Il just buy a universal tool to do the job.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by J0K3R5

Thanks for the input guys, now on the hunt for tools to remove the bushings.
Most likely Il just buy a universal tool to do the job.

Check out ECS tuning. I think they have a kit for the e90. I wouldn't use a universal tool.

You can rent the large subframe tool from Harold at HP Autoworks

https://www.hpashop.com/Bushing-Tool...g-tool-kit.htm

The smaller bushings you'll need a specific tool for that too.

Koch makes a specific kit for the rear subframe of the BMW e90. It's not cheap. You get what you pay for when dealing with subframe tools. They break very easily, as there is an awful lot of pressure involved. Your best bet it to find a used Koch set on eBay or this forum.

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Oh and replacing the bushings is a pig. I recommend good tools, or pay someone to do it.

I can concur, currently in the middle of this still. The main thing is having the proper tools/being able to make the proper tools/bearing pullers.

[Tambohamilton]

You can't use a generic puller on one of them - the front ones I think. The tool needs little lugs to bear on the subframe, through the gaps in the bushing flange.

I made mine from 2 hole saws, and got a friend to laser cut a piece which adapted the hole saws to pull the front ones out. I can't say it was fun, but it worked and was cheaper than proper tools.

[IllSic_Design]

Subframe mount bushings aren't too bad, did them pretty easily, its the diff and other arm bushings on the subframe. Finding the right size pipe/puller is a pain, and I have TONS of pullers/pipe. I should be able to finish it this weekend when I work on it again after getting some more tools.

[Tambohamilton]

Haha, I had exactly the opposite issue! Hole saws were about the only useful/cheap thing I could find that were on size for the subframe bushings.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Yes, I agree that good/ great tools are a must for this particular job.
I made mine with black pipe & washers grade 8 steel rod & nuts.

Do you have photos from your setup?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by feuer

Do you have photos from your setup?

I can take some. Perhaps later on today. I'd have to dig them out of the tool box. I followed a DIY for these tools on this forum.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I can take some. Perhaps later on today. I'd have to dig them out of the tool box. I followed a DIY for these tools on this forum.

I can't find the 3 1/2" pipe that used for the subframe bushings.

You get black pipe from Home Depot. You'll need the end cap. Take a 5/8" Cobalt bit & some drill oil & put a hole in the center of the end cap.

The pics are from the smaller tool I made for the differential & other various control arm bushings etc.

You can use an 18" 1/2 drive power bar to turn the nut.

Or

If you had a Dewalt 3 speed, brushless impact driver, that would be even easier.

You are gonna want a 36" grade 8, threaded 1/2" wide rod, about 4-6 grade 8 nuts threaded at the exact thread specs as the rod. Also, you'll need a variety of washers, lots of washers. SS washers hold up better. Grade 8, if you can find them, Would be ideal. Any rate, it's still a lot cheaper than buying a tool kit from Koch for example for $350-400.00. You can sometimes find guys (now days), who are selling their Koch, e90 subframe tool kits on eBay for $150-200.00.

Get some silicone grease for the new bushings. It will your new bushings go in a lot easier, and it won't degrade the rubber like regular grease will.

Last, the whole idea is to suck the old bushings out and new bushings in. Turning the grade 8 nut against washers, on the end cap will suck the bushings through. You would of course have several washers with a nut on the end. These would be placed on the other end of the bushing.