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      08-11-2019, 10:21 AM   #1
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inlet pipe options ps2 turbo?/install kit nec?

Ready to order my ps2 today but wondering whats the difference between the inlet options... one is a hundred dollars more than the other

Also do i need installation kit?

Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge
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      08-11-2019, 10:59 AM   #2
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Regarding the inlet.... The more expensive one is a full replacement single piece. The cheaper one is a subsection that you would retrofit into your existing inlet pipe.
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      08-12-2019, 03:59 PM   #3
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I replaced my inlet with the more $$ one piece design, the turbo to ic pipe with ER, and added DV+ when I did my ps2 install.

Already had the ER CP, Fabspeed Catted DP, AA FMIC, and Dinan CF hi flow CAI

Also went with 3.5bar map sensor upgrade for higher resolution at hi boost and the appropriate tweaking to my AA OBD Stg2 flash tune + 1 step colder NGK plugs gapped to .022

You will find there are a lot of ancillary items that should be installed at same time to get optimum performance out of a bigger turbo, rather than just throwing the turbo on and go

Next I will be going with upgraded HPFP for security

CAN you run without this extra stuff? Guess you could, but I like to be thorough
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Last edited by 1QuikWS6; 08-12-2019 at 04:05 PM..
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      08-12-2019, 04:39 PM   #4
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Option 1:
Is the custom aluminum section and t-bolt clamp only. You will need to cut your OEM inlet and clamp it to our section. Instructions and t-bolt clamp included.
Option 2:
One piece complete aluminum pipe
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      08-12-2019, 04:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com View Post
Option 1:
Is the custom aluminum section and t-bolt clamp only. You will need to cut your OEM inlet and clamp it to our section. Instructions and t-bolt clamp included.
Option 2:
One piece complete aluminum pipe
Thanks for the explanation

Definitely going to go with second option
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      08-12-2019, 04:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my335i403 View Post
Thanks for the explanation

Definitely going to go with second option
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      08-12-2019, 04:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
I replaced my inlet with the more $$ one piece design, the turbo to ic pipe with ER, and added DV+ when I did my ps2 install.

Already had the ER CP, Fabspeed Catted DP, AA FMIC, and Dinan CF hi flow CAI

Also went with 3.5bar map sensor upgrade for higher resolution at hi boost and the appropriate tweaking to my AA OBD Stg2 flash tune + 1 step colder NGK plugs gapped to .022

You will find there are a lot of ancillary items that should be installed at same time to get optimum performance out of a bigger turbo, rather than just throwing the turbo on and go

Next I will be going with upgraded HPFP for security

CAN you run without this extra stuff? Guess you could, but I like to be thorough
I’m going to do ps2,plugs,

What I don’t know is do i need new lines, oil and coolant, from turbo to block? ?
Never heard of the 3.5 map sensor thing so I will do my research on that tonight
I have a bm3 stage 2 now, 93 octane, going to do turbo upgrade now, and either put in a b58 pump a little later or pony up the money for the xdi,
Little worried about going full xdi because I really don’t want to have to swap my clutch.
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      08-12-2019, 05:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my335i403 View Post
I’m going to do ps2,plugs,

What I don’t know is do i need new lines, oil and coolant, from turbo to block? ?
Never heard of the 3.5 map sensor thing so I will do my research on that tonight
I have a bm3 stage 2 now, 93 octane, going to do turbo upgrade now, and either put in a b58 pump a little later or pony up the money for the xdi,
Little worried about going full xdi because I really don’t want to have to swap my clutch.
You don't NEED new oil/coolant lines but its recommended so you can have fresh lines and peace of mind.

I would also get the 3.5 map sensor because it will allow you to run higher than 21psi on a custom tune in the future.
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      08-12-2019, 08:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MineralF30 View Post
You don't NEED new oil/coolant lines but its recommended so you can have fresh lines and peace of mind.

I would also get the 3.5 map sensor because it will allow you to run higher than 21psi on a custom tune in the future.
Did you replace lines when doing so? If so which ones the part diagram I look at has 4

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/v-2014-bmw-335i-xdrive--base--3-0l-l6-gas/engine--turbocharger-and-components
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      08-12-2019, 08:02 PM   #10
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https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/...and-components
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      08-12-2019, 08:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my335i403 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MineralF30 View Post
You don't NEED new oil/coolant lines but its recommended so you can have fresh lines and peace of mind.

I would also get the 3.5 map sensor because it will allow you to run higher than 21psi on a custom tune in the future.
Did you replace lines when doing so? If so which ones the part diagram I look at has 4

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/v-2014-bmw-335i-xdrive--base--3-0l-l6-gas/engine--turbocharger-and-components
Yes there would be 4 lines. I had braided feed lines for my turbo because I went with a bigger single.
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      08-13-2019, 07:31 AM   #12
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I didn't get the install kit. I contacted bmw direct for a parts list required and ordered from fcp euro. It came to 128$ insted of the 200 od pure wanted
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      08-13-2019, 07:39 AM   #13
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You don't need to get the 3.5bar MAP sensor right away if you're not planning on running high boost, over 20 PSI. It's super easy to replace so can be done at a later date. I would reccomend replacing or upgrading anything that's easier to replace while you have the turbo out, like the inlet, turbo to IC pipe, oil/coolant lines and DV+.

Quote:
Originally Posted by my335i403 View Post
I’m going to do ps2,plugs,

What I don’t know is do i need new lines, oil and coolant, from turbo to block? ?
Never heard of the 3.5 map sensor thing so I will do my research on that tonight
I have a bm3 stage 2 now, 93 octane, going to do turbo upgrade now, and either put in a b58 pump a little later or pony up the money for the xdi,
Little worried about going full xdi because I really don’t want to have to swap my clutch.
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      08-13-2019, 08:04 AM   #14
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The 3.5MAP sensor is simply the stock MAP sensor from the 4-cylinder engine because it is set to handle higher boost intake levels. It's a 5-minute install.
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      08-13-2019, 08:21 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
I replaced my inlet with the more $$ one piece design, the turbo to ic pipe with ER, and added DV+ when I did my ps2 install.

Already had the ER CP, Fabspeed Catted DP, AA FMIC, and Dinan CF hi flow CAI

Also went with 3.5bar map sensor upgrade for higher resolution at hi boost and the appropriate tweaking to my AA OBD Stg2 flash tune + 1 step colder NGK plugs gapped to .022

You will find there are a lot of ancillary items that should be installed at same time to get optimum performance out of a bigger turbo, rather than just throwing the turbo on and go

Next I will be going with upgraded HPFP for security

CAN you run without this extra stuff? Guess you could, but I like to be thorough
Quote:
Originally Posted by my335i403 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
I replaced my inlet with the more $$ one piece design, the turbo to ic pipe with ER, and added DV+ when I did my ps2 install.

Already had the ER CP, Fabspeed Catted DP, AA FMIC, and Dinan CF hi flow CAI

Also went with 3.5bar map sensor upgrade for higher resolution at hi boost and the appropriate tweaking to my AA OBD Stg2 flash tune + 1 step colder NGK plugs gapped to .022

You will find there are a lot of ancillary items that should be installed at same time to get optimum performance out of a bigger turbo, rather than just throwing the turbo on and go

Next I will be going with upgraded HPFP for security

CAN you run without this extra stuff? Guess you could, but I like to be thorough
I'm going to do ps2,plugs,

What I don't know is do i need new lines, oil and coolant, from turbo to block? ?
Never heard of the 3.5 map sensor thing so I will do my research on that tonight
I have a bm3 stage 2 now, 93 octane, going to do turbo upgrade now, and either put in a b58 pump a little later or pony up the money for the xdi,
Little worried about going full xdi because I really don't want to have to swap my clutch.
Congrats! Very thorough job! I'm curious about a couple of things:

1) Did you notice any increase in turbo lag with the Pure Turbos Stage2 turbo upgrade, especially from standing starts and around town in low rev daily driving?

2) I believe there are two MAP sensors- on the charge pipe before the throttle body, and on the intake manifold. Did you upgrade one or both of these? BootMod3 has settings for each one.

3) I'm looking to upgrade to DV+ now. How many hours might it take to upgrade all at once the DV, the inlet pipe and the TIC (turbo to intercooler pipe)? Trying to figure out what a reasonable labor quote might be.
Thanks!
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      08-17-2019, 02:36 PM   #16
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Would the 1 piece design heatsoak quicker then the original design which mostly uses the stock plastic inlet? Pointless spending big money on a carbon intake like the eventuri go cool the air if it gets heated up straight away
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      08-17-2019, 04:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristosD View Post
Would the 1 piece design heatsoak quicker then the original design which mostly uses the stock plastic inlet? Pointless spending big money on a carbon intake like the eventuri go cool the air if it gets heated up straight away
Heat soak is not an issue with the turbo inlet pipe so pick whichever one you like or can afford. Makes no difference. The inlet pipe is delivering unboosted air from whatever intake/air filter that you are using to the turbo's air intake port. It is not pressurized.

Heat soak occurs when the boosted or pressurized air is entering the engine's intake manifold at too high of a temperature. The engine's failsafe measures kick in to limit the engine's power. That's heat soak. You can't run at high power again until the boosted air temperature goes down into normal operating range.

The biggest factor by far in keeping down the temperature of the boosted air is the size and efficiency of the air-to-air intercooler. Boosted air leaves the turbo through the TIC pipe (turbo to intercooler pipe), enters the intercooler where it is cooled, and exits into the charge pipe which takes the cooled, pressurized air to the engine to be combined with fuel. So it's a properly chosen, for your application, intercooler that prevents heat soak.

Hope this helps!
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      08-17-2019, 04:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Heat soak is not an issue with the turbo inlet pipe so pick whichever one you like or can afford. Makes no difference. The inlet pipe is delivering unboosted air from whatever intake/air filter that you are using to the turbo's air intake port. It is not pressurized.

Heat soak occurs when the boosted or pressurized air is entering the engine's intake manifold at too high of a temperature. The engine's failsafe measures kick in to limit the engine's power. That's heat soak. You can't run at high power again until the boosted air temperature goes down into normal operating range.

The biggest factor by far in keeping down the temperature of the boosted air is the size and efficiency of the air-to-air intercooler. Boosted air leaves the turbo through the TIC pipe (turbo to intercooler pipe), enters the intercooler where it is cooled, and exits into the charge pipe which takes the cooled, pressurized air to the engine to be combined with fuel. So it's a properly chosen, for your application, intercooler that prevents heat soak.

Hope this helps!
Thank you, I already have all the supporting hardware (see foot print) I have the original version of the inlet my question is eventuri claims with their intake they lower the iat at the throttle body by x degrees but now adding a metal pipe between the intake and turbo would this not heat up the "cooler" air from the fancy intake negating the point of the intake entirely.if you get what I mean (my csf intercooler is working wonders)
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      08-17-2019, 04:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristosD View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Heat soak is not an issue with the turbo inlet pipe so pick whichever one you like or can afford. Makes no difference. The inlet pipe is delivering unboosted air from whatever intake/air filter that you are using to the turbo's air intake port. It is not pressurized.

Heat soak occurs when the boosted or pressurized air is entering the engine's intake manifold at too high of a temperature. The engine's failsafe measures kick in to limit the engine's power. That's heat soak. You can't run at high power again until the boosted air temperature goes down into normal operating range.

The biggest factor by far in keeping down the temperature of the boosted air is the size and efficiency of the air-to-air intercooler. Boosted air leaves the turbo through the TIC pipe (turbo to intercooler pipe), enters the intercooler where it is cooled, and exits into the charge pipe which takes the cooled, pressurized air to the engine to be combined with fuel. So it's a properly chosen, for your application, intercooler that prevents heat soak.

Hope this helps!
Thank you, I already have all the supporting hardware (see foot print) I have the original version of the inlet my question is eventuri claims with their intake they lower the iat at the throttle body by x degrees but now adding a metal pipe between the intake and turbo would this not heat up the "cooler" air from the fancy intake negating the point of the intake entirely.if you get what I mean (my csf intercooler is working wonders)
Read the eventuri claim again carefully. My guess would be that they maybe are saying that they have a closed intake and are trying to compare an IAT temperature using their product versus a product that's wide open to heat under the hood. Switching between a foot long plastic or a metal pipe in the airflow is not going to change their experimental numbers.

The metal being used in the turbo inlet pipe is aluminum which dissipates heat very quickly. If your fear about aluminum was correct then all of the aluminum charge pipes would be driving up IAT temps, and they aren't.

Again, for the turbo inlet pipe the choice of one-piece or two-piece is inconsequential in terms of heat soak. It's simply your own personal preference.
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      08-17-2019, 04:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Read the eventuri claim again carefully. My guess would be that they maybe are saying that they have a closed intake and are trying to compare an IAT temperature using their product versus a product that's wide open to heat under the hood. Switching between a foot long plastic or a metal pipe in the airflow is not going to change their experimental numbers.

The metal being used in the turbo inlet pipe is aluminum which dissipates heat very quickly. If your fear about aluminum was correct then all of the aluminum charge pipes would be driving up IAT temps, and they aren't.

Again, for the turbo inlet pipe the choice of one-piece or two-piece is inconsequential in terms of heat soak. It's simply your own personal preference.
Completely forgot about the charge pipe lol makes perfect sense now thank you
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