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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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2007 BMW 335i
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07-11-2019, 06:31 PM | #1 |
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2007 BMW 335i
Hi, can anyone shed some light on this water/pump issue? I had the normal codes, speed deviation, etc when I pulled codes. So I bought a pump and thermostat, but still not convinced its the pump. ( I don't want to change it if I don't have to)
I can leave the car idling in the driveway for 1..2 hours and the temp never gets beyond 92--96 /197F..204F. Granted it's not under load....then I drive it and I watch the temp (using the menu buttons) and it will hover about 92--98. Yesterday I watched it and I saw it go up to 102C and then I knew it was going to go into overheat mode. It went up to 110C(230F) a short while later the orange warning light and then the red symbol came up, so I switched it off immediately, waited10 seconds and restarted it. The temp dropped to 85C(185F) straight away. (it was about 11C/51F outside) There is no way an engine can cool so quickly. Is it a faulty temp sensor signal, or is that one of the symptoms of a doomed water pump. Is there a way of doing a test on it? (I have one of those Autel diagnostic scanners) thanks, Guys!! |
07-12-2019, 10:27 AM | #2 |
First Lieutenant
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Drives: 2008 E90 335i; 2016 F80 M3
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by the way you describe it, the pump is going bad and will go out any time soon, you already got the parts so I would strongly suggest to replace them, don't stretch it, you are stressing the engine for no reason. Worst case, new parts won't fully fix the issue, you'll need to investigate more, but experience in this forum will tell you that is more than likely that the pump is the culprit.
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07-12-2019, 10:46 AM | #3 | |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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07-12-2019, 11:02 AM | #4 |
Colonel
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Considering how often these pumps/thermostats fail, this is on my pre-emptive maintenance list, albeit a little further down on that list, I'm at 58k miles. Not everyone lives by that motto of replacing things before they fail, but I do. My point is, you have them, replace them.
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07-13-2019, 08:53 AM | #6 |
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Yeah sounds like pump/thermostat. Recently had mine go out at 79k miles. Luckily I was going home and just passing a dealership. I just slowly drove it there and was able to make it. I had mine covered under my extended warranty. Side note, I had a crack in my expansion tank at 69k and had that replaced as well. I would definitely do the pump/thermostat next time as preventative maintenance. Would hate to get stuck somewhere, but again was lucky I was right next to a shop.
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07-13-2019, 10:39 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
Keep in mind that ANYTHING that reduces resistance in the circuit that supplies 5V control voltage to the ECTS and returns a signal via the ECTS to the DME, tells the DME that the temperature is HIGHER than it actually is (higher voltage in the ECTS Signal wire). If you have an Infrared Thermometer, just measure the temperature at the OFH next to the ECTS when the apparent "Bogus Overheat" signal occurs, and that will answer the question scientifically. ECTS is cheap and easy to replace, but also check the connector, and perhaps even test the wiring per this TIS circuit diagram, where Yellow/Red wire supplies Control Voltage to Sensor (B6236a) and Black/Violet wire is Sensor Signal (Input) to DME, at Pin #17 of DME Connector X60007: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/wzLX20U Please let us know what you find, George Last edited by gbalthrop; 07-13-2019 at 10:48 AM.. |
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