[arveeezy]

Hello everyone!

i owned a 2006 330i E90. I'm having a issue at cold start, it idles rough for about 20-30 seconds, engine shakes also. When the engine is warmed up, i have no issues. The car runs smooth on the road with no problem. Don't have a idle problem when i'm at a stop light. I bought the car this past January from a family member for a about $1500. And i thought it was a steal! but it wasn't after all LMAO. I did all labor by myself and bought all the parts from FCP EURO.

I replaced all 6 spark plugs and coils, Valvetronic eccentric motor and sensor, valve cover gaskets(due to oil going through the spark well), Crankcase vent valve and all the hoses(clog and blown), 2 DISA valves(left and right) New battery AGM.

I haven't replace my VANOS solenoids and O2 sensors, but i cleaned them instead. I'm not getting any codes from the vanos, except i have Mixture control 002A2E and 002A2F codes and that's all.

Any solution or advice?

Here is the footage:

Thank you.

[The_E92_Fan]

MAF or oil separator lines.

read this: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=905209

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by arveeezy

...2006 330i E90. I'm having a issue at cold start, it idles rough for about 20-30 seconds, engine shakes also. When the engine is warmed up, i have no issues. The car runs smooth on the road with no problem. Don't have a idle problem when i'm at a stop light...i have Mixture control 002A2E and 002A2F codes and that's all.

What are you using to read codes? Those two codes you provide are VERY NON-SPECIFIC: "mixture control," BOTH BANKS. Is that TOO RICH or TOO LEAN??

A generic P-code reader would give you what you need to know, and it's probably P0171 & P0174, BOTH Banks TOO LEAN. That would simply confirm what we already know: rough idle until warmed up. It takes MORE enrichment for cold start (even in warm weather). Just like a manual choke on a carburetted engine (think lawnmower ;-)

So the question is WHY is it too lean when the engine is cold, but fine when warm engine? The first suspect is the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor). There are three easy ways to check that:

1) If you have a Scan Tool and know how to read ECTS Parameter/Live Data using that tool, just connect to OBD II Socket & display ECTS Parameter on tool (cold engine).

2) When engine is cold (NOT run for at least 5 hours, and better left overnight), remove Connector from ECTS on front of OFH (Oil Filter Housing) and measure Ohms (resistance) across the two spades of the Sensor. If the Ambient Temp is ~ 70F, the resistance should be in the range of 2,500 Ohms. If it measures SIGNIFICANTLY LESS than that, say 1,000 Ohms or 500 Ohms, you need to replace that sensor, as it's telling the DME your engine is warmer than it actually is, hence lean fueling until engine IS actually warm.

3) Use "Hidden Menu 7.00" to display ECTS signal Temperature as received by the DME. Same drill, if it shows HIGHER Temp than actual at cold start, DME is fueling TOO LEAN because of that. Advantage of using this method (or scan tool) is if there is a wiring issue between the sensor & DME, you see that as too high Temp display on dash. Here is procedure for Hidden Menu:
http://e90.wikifoundry.com/page/BC+hidden+menus

Please let us know what you find,
George

[sorin1987]

Had the exact same symptoms. I can bet the issue is leaky injector(s).
When you stop the car the injectors are still dripping small amounts of fuel and when you start it because of the extra fuel in the cylinders it burns at the wrong parameters causing the misfires.
Can also be MAF sensor but this is exactly the symptom I had. I cleaned the MAF sensor but didn't work. Cleaned the Vanos solenoids as well, no change, changed spark plugs and coils, no change. Then a mechanic told me that 3 injectors were not functioning correctly. I know people here will tell you to change all 6 of them even if only one or two are faulty because the others will go out soon as well. I changed only the 3 with the problems and my problem went away and it's been a year now since the car hasn't had any issues.

[jarots]

Originally Posted by sorin1987

Had the exact same symptoms. I can bet the issue is leaky injector(s).
When you stop the car the injectors are still dripping small amounts of fuel and when you start it because of the extra fuel in the cylinders it burns at the wrong parameters causing the misfires.
Can also be MAF sensor but this is exactly the symptom I had. I cleaned the MAF sensor but didn't work. Cleaned the Vanos solenoids as well, no change, changed spark plugs and coils, no change. Then a mechanic told me that 3 injectors were not functioning correctly. I know people here will tell you to change all 6 of them even if only one or two are faulty because the others will go out soon as well. I changed only the 3 with the problems and my problem went away and it's been a year now since the care haven't had any issues.

+1