[scottjeffrey]

I am about to get my hands dirty, lol and begin a gang of work on my 2009 328i.
I decided to replace my old rhino ramps at this time as they are quite old and I don't want to die. I never used them on the E90 thus far but they were great for my E23 and E10.

I am concerned regarding the low front bumper clearance. Can any one speaking from experience tell me if a set of RHino's will work? Alternative manufacturer's?

Also, I do not like my sears, cheapest model floor jack and wish to replace it with something at least a bit longer, efficient and well built. Any recommendations in this department?

Many thanks in advance for your help!
Best Regards,
Scott Winfield

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by scottjeffrey

I am about to get my hands dirty, lol and begin a gang of work on my 2009 328i.
I decided to replace my old rhino ramps at this time as they are quite old and I don't want to die. I never used them on the E90 thus far but they were great for my E23 and E10.

I am concerned regarding the low front bumper clearance. Can any one speaking from experience tell me if a set of RHino's will work? Alternative manufacturer's?

Also, I do not like my sears, cheapest model floor jack and wish to replace it with something at least a bit longer, efficient and well built. Any recommendations in this department?

Many thanks in advance for your help!
Best Regards,
Scott Winfield

Rhino ramps work for an e90, even a lowered e90. About the only thing they are good for is oil changes really.

If you want to go the jack & jack stand route, you will
want a 3 ton jack & set of 3 ton jack stands.

It's hard to beat Torin Big Red Jack stands -

Torin Big Red Steel Jack Stands: Double Locking, 3 Ton Capacity, 1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00026Z3E0..._Ub1hDbGDAW3V7

When looking at Jacks, you definitely want something that's Aluminum & has a somewhat slim design for getting under the front end of an e90.

Jack -

Arcan ALJ3T, Aluminum Floor Jack, 3 Ton Capacity, Lightweight, Dual Pump Pistons, Reinforced Lift Arms, Side Mount, 2 Piece Handle, Vehicle Protection, Bypass and Overload Valves, Meets ASME PASE-2014 Safety Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047D2FWM..._Qc1hDbWDF7J26

You should be able to get the car 15-16" off the ground safely with these two items.

However:

I have done the above and did not get a quick jack until recently. Largely because they were not affordable until as of late. You can get a a quick jack 5000 at Home Depot or Costco for $999.00. They used to be $1400-1500.00. This is much, much more safer and will get the car up around 21-22" off the ground.

At HD, all you need to do is open a new account, and you will get $100.00 off the sticker price.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/QuickJac...SABEgIpkvD_BwE

[scottjeffrey]

Jack you are a champ. Thanks for your time and your sharing this information.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by scottjeffrey

Jack you are a champ. Thanks for your time and your sharing this information.

Yep, it's really a $700.00 question (the difference between a quality, aluminum jack & 4 good/great stands & a quick jack)

Safety first !

I do understand cash flow 😉

However, $700.00?

It's an easy decision really.

Watch the video on their website where they literally put like 20,000+ pounds on the quick jack 5000, which is rated for 5000#, and it still holds up!

[scottjeffrey]

I watched it Jack. Forgive my drooling and cash flow issues with a daughter in college, lol. I had seen the Arcan jack before and thought it to be a 'Best Buy'. God, when I think of how for so many decades I used to jump under a car without a care. Aging brings recognition of former stupidities. When I was a little boy, our neighbor died, crushed by his '62 Merc falling off the jack stands he had it on. Thanks again my friend.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Yeah on the QuickJack... it's nice machine but still at it's price point not worth it IMO for "lazyness". Might be more safe if you're an idiot who can't realize or do something stupid when you're jacking the car but IMO 4 stands and a jack is as safe. I'll even add 2 more stand near where I work under for even more safety.

My low profile ramps (to go high enough to fit the jack) + my jack + my 6 stands only costed me a total of around 260$ USD (340$ canadian) with good sales.

But if you don't mind spending more here for yoru lfiting equipment it's for sure something nice to have. If I had unlimited money and no place for a lift the quick jack would def be my pick.

[HiRev335i]

Esco jack stand with the proper jack pad cant beat it sold on amazon top notch quality extremely safe.

https://www.amazon.ca/ESCO-10498-Jac...s%2C167&sr=8-1

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by HiRev335i

Esco jack stand with the proper jack pad cant beat it sold on amazon top notch quality extremely safe.

https://www.amazon.ca/ESCO-10498-Jac...s%2C167&sr=8-1

Yes, these are the type of jack stands that need to be used. Those Torins(and 99% of every other jack stands on the market) are such an antiquated design. They're intended to be used with solid axles and body on frame type vehicles. Both of which our cars don't have. The flat pad of the Esco is much, much, much safer and with the jack point pads/adapters, they won't destroy them.

On my E92 with MSport suspension, I have to place a couple of pieces of 2x12 in front of the Rhino Ramps, otherwise the number will rub going up/down.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Yes, these are the type of jack stands that need to be used. Those Torins(and 99% of every other jack stands on the market) are such an antiquated design. They're intended to be used with solid axles and body on frame type vehicles. Both of which our cars don't have. The flat pad of the Esco is much, much, much safer and with the jack point pads/adapters, they won't destroy them.

On my E92 with MSport suspension, I have to place a couple of pieces of 2x12 in front of the Rhino Ramps, otherwise the number will rub going up/down.

While I agree those jack stands would be best in the optimal world and no budget considered scenario, at 78 cdn$ a piece it's pretty expensive.

I use Motomaster stands like in the picture of the Torins and if you align the top to be parallel to the car you can make the plastic block sit quite perfectly on both ends and be very safe. Or just remove the jacking plastic thing and under you have a perfectly flat jacking spot so the sides of the V head sit perfect to.

[Emilime75]

Well, this thread ain't about you and your stinking Canadian dollars... Besides, the OP didn't state a budget, just asked for recommendations.

I'll add that I don't understand the fascination with the quick jacks. They're big and heavy and in the way whenever they're not in use, not to mention that the only way to get under the car when using them is from the front or the back, no side access. I'd much rather have a good quality jack and stands. They're cheaper, more versatile, better access, can jack up just one corner if needed, portable......

[nsjames]

don't forget the stand/jack pad adapters so you don't crush the jack points on the sill.

jack car in the center jack point, slide stands under the rockers, go to work.

[Efthreeoh]

I'll give you my opinion and advice.

First, always work on a car that is set up on 4 jack stands with the wheels off the ground. If the car is off the wheels, it can't roll (common sense). The jack stands used should be of ample weight capacity and the correct type for the area of the chassis that is being supported; meaning use an axle jack stand if placing the stand under a solid axle (like on a pick up truck), or use a frame rail stand when placing under a frame rail, or use a flat top stand when placing the stands under the four (4) lift points on a modern BMW. Emilime recommended ESCO Model 10498, which I also have been recommending for years; the suggested Torin stands will just tear up the lifting blocks. You also need the correct floor jack to reach the front-center jack point on the E9X and the rear-center jack point, which is the differential pumpkin. The Blackhawk Model 29023 is a good choice. You want the longest saddle length with the lowest frame.

Only lift your BMW on a flat, hard surface such as a concrete garage floor. Leave the car in neutral and with the brake off. I know this probably different than what you have been taught, but the jack needs to roll under the car as it lifts it. A lot of times the concrete is rough and the jack does not roll very well, so you want the car then to be able to roll over the jack. This prevents the jack cup from pulling on the jack point on the chassis. Once the car is lifted, sitting on the jack stands you can then apply the parking brake so when drop the car off the sand it doesn't roll away (it probably wouldn't anyway).

Lastly, you do not need "adapters" for the lift blocks. The lift blocks are the rectangular plastic blocks that snap into the rocker panels on each side of the car behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel. People crush them because they either use the wrong kind of jack stand (i.e. not a flat-top stand), or they jack up the car from the side using the lifting block and because the jack doesn't roll properly under the car, it side-loads the plastic wall of the lifting block and tears it up. The plastic wall of the lift block is designed for vertical pressure (load) and not designed for horizontal loads (pulling sideways on it). The lifting block is not fragile, but it is plastic so it will break away from the chassis if it hit something (like a curb), or gets hit by road debris. Lift the E90 correctly using the proper technique and jack stands and the lifting blocks will remain un damaged.

Here are pics of the stands and jack, plus the proper lifting/jacking points on the E9X chassis. Be safe. Spend a little bit of money now for good automotive lifting equipment.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by scottjeffrey

I watched it Jack. Forgive my drooling and cash flow issues with a daughter in college, lol. I had seen the Arcan jack before and thought it to be a 'Best Buy'. God, when I think of how for so many decades I used to jump under a car without a care. Aging brings recognition of former stupidities. When I was a little boy, our neighbor died, crushed by his '62 Merc falling off the jack stands he had it on. Thanks again my friend.

My brother's jeep rolled onto my arm when I was 11 years old. I take lifting vehicles extremely serious. It's why 14 years ago I built a standalone garage for a 2-post lift. Why anyone gets under a car supported by ramps is a concept that just does not register in my brain.

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by HiRev335i

Esco jack stand with the proper jack pad cant beat it sold on amazon top notch quality extremely safe.

https://www.amazon.ca/ESCO-10498-Jac...s%2C167&sr=8-1

I have these and much prefer them to the locking design with the narrow saddle that will just damage the jack pads.

[arkie6]

I bought a 3 ton low profile floor jack from Harbor Freight. It gets good reviews and works like it should and only cost $80 on sale. I keep it in my work shop, so no need for a lightweight and much more costly aluminum frame jack. I also have a bigger 3.5 ton floor jack for my truck and other taller vehicles, but it won't fit under the BMW front unless I run it up on some 2x lumber first.

I've got some steel jack stands for my truck, but the top doesn't work with the BMW jack stand points, so I built 4 cribbing stands out of 2x4's with a 3/4" plywood top (the picture below just shows 2 of them). They are 11.5" square so it is really stable and makes efficient use of 8' long 2x4s. I then adjust the height as needed for the multiple vehicles I have with scrap cut off ends of 2x4 / 2x6 / 2x8 lumber as needed. I just changed the transmission fluid in my wife's Lexus RX350 using these. They work good for getting the vehicle high enough to get under it and still keep it level for setting the auto transmission fluid level.

When I'm done with them, they stack easily in the corner and take up less floor space than my 4 steel jack stands that don't stack.

[mweisdorfer]

Here's how I put mine up & out of the way. I attached a 2 x 4 to the wall via studs, which are 16" on center. I then attached two hooks per frame. Each hook is rated for 50#.