[KRushing]

My 335i E93 2007 had an excessive coolant temp and went into limp mode. I changed the water pump and thermostat and I have the same issue. Coolant fan turns on and coolant temp reaches 125 C then enters limp mode then coolant temp decreases. What's next? Thanks! (I'm new to the forum).

[nsjames]

did you do the bleed procedure after pump replacement?

was the car badly overheated before you replaced the pump?

does the cooling fan not turn on before coming on full power at the overheat?

have you got a way to talk BMW diagnostic stuff?

[KRushing]

Originally Posted by nsjames

did you do the bleed procedure after pump replacement?

was the car badly overheated before you replaced the pump?

does the cooling fan not turn on before coming on full power at the overheat?

have you got a way to talk BMW diagnostic stuff?

Yes, the coolant was bled and re-topped off.
No, the car never badly overheated.
With outside temperature at 90F, with the car at idle, in 5 minutes the coolant temp will go from 95 C to 125 C then immediately decrease and reach 95 C again in 5 minutes. As temp is going down, at 111 C the fan kicks on until it reaches 95 C. Then fan turns off then temps go back up again and the cycle repeats.
I bought a bavariantech diagnostic cable but I don't see where any error codes could be found with coolant. Only two faults found with this diagnostic tool: airbag and rain and light sensor.

Also I just purchased this car a month ago and I'm unsure of any previous history (except for a few receipts in glove compartment).

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by KRushing

My 335i E93 2007 had an excessive coolant temp and went into limp mode. I changed the water pump and thermostat and I have the same issue. Coolant fan turns on and coolant temp reaches 125 C then enters limp mode then coolant temp decreases...

Originally Posted by KRushing

...With outside temperature at 90F, with the car at idle, in 5 minutes the coolant temp will go from 95 C to 125 C then immediately decrease and reach 95 C again in 5 minutes. As temp is going down, at 111 C the fan kicks on until it reaches 95 C. Then fan turns off then temps go back up again and the cycle repeats. I bought a bavariantech diagnostic cable but I don't see where any error codes could be found with coolant. Only two faults found with this diagnostic tool: airbag and rain and light sensor.

There's MORE to diagnostics than reading Fault Codes. Fault Codes are recorded when a sensor signal (usually voltage) is out of range or "Implausible" as compared with another input to the Module, and Fault Codes do NOT tell you what component to replace.

If ALL the testing you describe was done with the vehicle STATIONARY (no Air Flow through the Radiator unless the E-Fan is running, then I don't see how the ECTS temp signal could have dropped BEFORE the Fan began to operate.

It is POSSIBLE that the Thermostat is NOT opening until the high temp you report (125C?) occurs, and then when it DOES open, coolant that has been sitting in the Radiator enters the pump (via the Lower Radiator Hose) and causes the ECTS readout to drop, but if the fan does NOT run at that point, you get NO heat transfer and the Radiator can't function to cool the Hot Coolant coming from the Engine via the Upper Radiator Hose.

HOW are you monitoring Engine Coolant Temp? You COULD use BT to Read the ECTS signal Parameter as Live Data, OR you could use "Hidden Menu 7.00" to read it on the instrument cluster as you drive. OR, if you have an Infrared Thermometer, you could measure Coolant Temp at the ECTS housing on the front of the OFH, in the Top Radiator Hose, or the Lower Radiator Hose, and verify the ECTS signal as received by the DME & displayed on BT or Instrument Cluster.

IF you have an accurate and safe means of monitoring ECTS as you drive, and your Coolant Level is correct, I would drive for 5 to 10 minutes if you have an area where you can keep moving > 30 MPH and see if the temperature fluctuates the same way it did at idle/stationary. If it does NOT, and is stable in the 95C - 100C range, then the issue is the E-Fan, and NOT the Thermostat (or Coolant Pump Activation).

I am NOT familiar with your Bavarian Technic Scan Tool or Software, but if it has "Activations" that work similarly to INPA, you can watch Coolant Temp as you monitor and Activate or Over-ride (1) Fan Speed, (2) Thermostat opening, and (3) Coolant Pump Speed. The ability to both Monitor Engine Temp while you Control or Activate Speed/ Position of those components allows you to diagnose the issue.

I would take an hour or so to investigate the capability of your Scan Tool or Software related to Activations, and then post back with any questions. I could help you if you were using INPA, but I do NOT know the capabilities of BT, or how to get it to perform those capabilities.

George

[KRushing]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

There's MORE to diagnostics than reading Fault Codes. Fault Codes are recorded when a sensor signal (usually voltage) is out of range or "Implausible" as compared with another input to the Module, and Fault Codes do NOT tell you what component to replace.

If ALL the testing you describe was done with the vehicle STATIONARY (no Air Flow through the Radiator unless the E-Fan is running, then I don't see how the ECTS temp signal could have dropped BEFORE the Fan began to operate.

It is POSSIBLE that the Thermostat is NOT opening until the high temp you report (125C?) occurs, and then when it DOES open, coolant that has been sitting in the Radiator enters the pump (via the Lower Radiator Hose) and causes the ECTS readout to drop, but if the fan does NOT run at that point, you get NO heat transfer and the Radiator can't function to cool the Hot Coolant coming from the Engine via the Upper Radiator Hose.

HOW are you monitoring Engine Coolant Temp? You COULD use BT to Read the ECTS signal Parameter as Live Data, OR you could use "Hidden Menu 7.00" to read it on the instrument cluster as you drive. OR, if you have an Infrared Thermometer, you could measure Coolant Temp at the ECTS housing on the front of the OFH, in the Top Radiator Hose, or the Lower Radiator Hose, and verify the ECTS signal as received by the DME & displayed on BT or Instrument Cluster.

IF you have an accurate and safe means of monitoring ECTS as you drive, and your Coolant Level is correct, I would drive for 5 to 10 minutes if you have an area where you can keep moving > 30 MPH and see if the temperature fluctuates the same way it did at idle/stationary. If it does NOT, and is stable in the 95C - 100C range, then the issue is the E-Fan, and NOT the Thermostat (or Coolant Pump Activation).

I am NOT familiar with your Bavarian Technic Scan Tool or Software, but if it has "Activations" that work similarly to INPA, you can watch Coolant Temp as you monitor and Activate or Over-ride (1) Fan Speed, (2) Thermostat opening, and (3) Coolant Pump Speed. The ability to both Monitor Engine Temp while you Control or Activate Speed/ Position of those components allows you to diagnose the issue.

I would take an hour or so to investigate the capability of your Scan Tool or Software related to Activations, and then post back with any questions. I could help you if you were using INPA, but I do NOT know the capabilities of BT, or how to get it to perform those capabilities.

George

Thanks for your help. I am new with all the BMW technology.

I'm reading temp from Hidden Menu 7.00.

Once I restarted the car, it remained in limp mode and some warning lights were on during the drive (Brake - red, service engine soon - yellow, gear with exclamation - yellow). During the first 5 minutes of the drive (30MPH limp mode) the temp began climbing above 120 and after I parked and opened the hood I noticed the fan was not turning then it suddenly turned on and noticed temp was 125C. Then temps went down and the fan remained on. I drove again for 10 minutes and the temp never went above 118C. When I parked and opened the hood I noticed the fan was still running. (Engine temp remained below 250F.)

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by KRushing

...I'm reading temp from Hidden Menu 7.00.
Once I restarted the car, it remained in limp mode and some warning lights were on during the drive (Brake - red, service engine soon - yellow, gear with exclamation - yellow). During the first 5 minutes of the drive (30MPH limp mode) the temp began climbing above 120 and after I parked and opened the hood I noticed the fan was not turning then it suddenly turned on and noticed temp was 125C. Then temps went down and the fan remained on. I drove again for 10 minutes and the temp never went above 118C. When I parked and opened the hood I noticed the fan was still running. (Engine temp remained below 250F.)

Welcome to the Forum! I missed the fact that this thread is your first post.

I also assumed from the fact that you said you had NO Fault codes in the DME Module (just MRS/Airbag & RLS/FZD Roof Function Center) that the "Limp Mode" was no longer present. Since overheating can quickly ruin an engine, I would suggest NOT driving it again until things get sorted.

Do I understand correctly that the engine was in LIMP MODE when you started the test drive? I don't have the N54 engine with MSD80 DME, but I would THINK that if it's in Limp Mode, there MUST be one or more Fault Codes saved in DME Memory. If the SES (Yellow) light came on, even if it later went out, there IS a Fault Code saved in DME Memory. The Yellow Gear is a Transmission Overheat warning, NOT as serious as a Red Gear (which means stop ;-) but further evidence of actual excessive engine Temp.

Do I understand correctly that you have "BRAKE" in Red letters on the Instrument Cluster (top left)? If there are NO OTHER warning icons on the Instrument cluster, that means the Handbrake is on.

The meaning of the various Icons is explained in the Owner's Manual. If you don't have the manual, you can download a pdf version from the Link shown in the attached "E9x References" pdf attached to this post.

I was hoping that the test drive would show normal Temp (~100C) as long as you moved at >30 MPH, but I understand from your description that ECTS (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) value was exceeded "bigly" in 5 minutes of operation. When you say "Engine temp remained below 250F" I HOPE you are talking about the OIL Temperature gauge on the Tach, and NOT Coolant Temp.

So based upon the above, I suggest "Starting Over" with the diagnosis:

1) When did you get the car & has it EVER operated without overheating symptoms?
2) When did overheating symptoms first appear?
3) Did you read any Fault Codes at that time, or at any time before you replaced Coolant Pump & Thermostat, and if so, WHAT scan tool or software was used to read codes, and WHAT codes were read in DME (Engine Control Module)?
4) Do you have Bavarian Technic Cable & Software, and if so, have you used it to connect to the DME to (a) read codes, (b) View Parameters in Real Time, such as Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Input to DME, (c) Activate electric Motors or components, such as Radiator Fan, Coolant Pump, or Thermostat (electrically-controlled)?
5) Do you have, or have access to, any simple generic P-code reader that can read fault codes saved in the DME?
6) What Fault Codes or other diagnostic tests of any kind caused you to replace the Coolant Pump & Thermostat, and WHEN were they replaced?
7) What is the "Build Date" Month/Year of your vehicle (per tag/decal in lower driver door frame? There are TWO different circuits & fuse layouts depending upon whether built BEFORE or AFTER 3/1/2007.

If I appear to be throwing too many different things into the conversation, let me summarize my suggestions for your approach to this issue:
A) Give the forum sufficient background of the HISTORY of the symptoms so we can understand what happened and when, so as NOT to reinvent the wheel.
B) Help you obtain ANY diagnostic information stored in your DME, using BT, a generic Scan Tool, or whatever is available to you. Keep in mind that although a generic P-code reader cannot read the 5 Coolant Pump Codes 2E81 through 2E85, it CAN read most other codes saved in the DME, such as a "bunch" of Thermostat Fault Codes, and the E-Fan fault code 2EFF = P14C0.
C) Use that diagnostic information to try to identify if the cause of "cyclical overheat" is coolant pump, thermostat, E-fan, or "Other."

So learning how to use whatever Scan Tools are available to you, and providing that data to the Forum is the FIRST STEP.

So you can better understand how the Cooling System in your N54 works, here is the TIS circuit diagram for vehicles built AFTER 3/1/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/wzLX20U

Here is the circuit for vehicles built BEFORE 3/1/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/dJL5OHc

Note that in BOTH circuits, the Thermostat (Y6279) and Coolant Pump (M6035) are shown in the Right side of the Schematic, and the "Control Circuit" for both is powered by Fuse F78 AFTER 3/1/2007 and F02 BEFORE 3/1/2007. F02 is in the E-box under the hood, and F78 is on the JB (Junction Box) Fuse panel in front of the glovebox. If that fuse, or its circuit to the Thermostat or Coolant Pump connectors, X6279 & X6035 are NOT intact, issues such as you describe can arise. I would thoroughly test the wiring, 12V+ power supply from F78 or F02, to both connectors.

It bears repeating that F78 or F02 power the CONTROL circuit for the Thermostat and Coolant Pump, and NOT main power supply to Pump. The Pump Motor gets power via F07, so it WILL run at times, but proper control is affected.

Please let us know what you find,
George

George

[KRushing]

I’ve owned the car for a couple months and had no problems for one month. After the first month the car went into limp mode and the warning light showed excessive coolant temp at the same time. I towed the car home. The next day the battery was low so I trickle charged it. The next day the battery was low again and I could not find how the battery was draining. I disconnected the battery with a full charge and it remained charged for five days until I reconnected it. It has since been on a trickle charge. The Hidden Menu showed an exceeding coolant temp of 128C.

Since the coolant level was good and the fan seemed to work, I decided to change the water pump and thermostat. Refilled with coolant, bled, and refilled. And it remains full. After a test drive, it remained in limp mode and the coolant temp was still excessive.

Then I bought a BavarianTech code reader.
Fault code error -*not currently present*-
2E82 Electrical cooling pump: switch off
2DEB Power management, vehicle wiring system control
CD95 Message (operation cruise control)
604D RDC control
931D On-board power over or undervoltage
9C6C 12V output peripherie
C910 K CAN ID246 status timeout
C914 PT CAN ID2A6 Operating wiper timeout

Fault code error - *CURRENTLY present*-
2DED Power management, standby current control
2ADO Gear control
9CB5 Energy saving mode active
A8B3 (no info given)

Current warning lights illuminated:
BRAKE (red) – but my handbrake is off
Car icon on lift (red) – (does this mean brake pads worn?)
Transmission overheat (yellow)
Service Engine Soon (yellow)
Front light (yellow)

Manufacture date is 07/07

This is all the info I have now. I will try to check circuits later this week. Thank you for your time and patience!

Ken

[rt7085]

It looks like CAN bus issues all over the place. And that means you have issues with ECU not being able to talk to each other. Seems like wiring issues.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by KRushing

...The Hidden Menu showed an exceeding coolant temp of 128C. Since the coolant level was good and the fan seemed to work, I decided to change the water pump and thermostat. Refilled with coolant, bled, and refilled. And it remains full. After a test drive, it remained in limp mode and the coolant temp was still excessive. [HOW LONG was the test drive, and WHAT was used to determine Coolant Temp, and WHAT was the exact reading? Hidden Menu and BT Parameter for Engine Temp BOTH read the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) Signal, so if sensor is bad, you may have warning lights, limp mode, & ECTS readout too high, but ALL those things are reading a BOGUS signal (IF ECTS BAD ;-) Infrared Thermometer pointed at ECTS Housing/OFH will answer that question.]

Then I bought a BavarianTech code reader.
Fault code error -*not currently present*-
... [See suggestion Below re Recording/Clearing Codes]

Fault code error - *CURRENTLY present*-

2DED Power management, standby current control [2DED | DME: Power management, closed-circuit current violation | msd80]

2ADO Gear control [2AD0 | No message from transmission control unit, receiver DME, transmitter EGS / HIM / SMG / DCT | msd80]

9CB5 Energy saving mode active [9CB5 | FRM: Battery exhausted | frm_70]

A8B3 (no info given) [A8B3 | FRM: Direction indicator, rear right, faulty | frm_70]

Current warning lights illuminated:
BRAKE (red) – but my handbrake is off
Car icon on lift (red) – (does this mean brake pads worn?) [Yes, BRAKE + "Car on Lift" = Brake Pad Sensor Signal (LF or RR)]
Transmission overheat (yellow) [WHEN does that light?]
Service Engine Soon (yellow) [SHOULD be a current Fault Code in DME if SES has been lit]
Front light (yellow) [NOT sure what you are describing; if a "light bulb" icon, it probably relates to the Right-Rear turn indicator bulb/socket failure]
Manufacture date is 07/07 [2007 335i E93]...
Ken

Hi Ken,

I would suggest checking Freeze Frame Data (mileage when Fault Code Saved, and any other clues such as voltage at a particular terminal, etc.) along with the fault codes themselves, and then CLEARING all codes. You MAY find that until the 2E82 Coolant Pump Cutoff code is deleted, the DME will NOT activate the pump. It doesn't know you have REPLACED the Pump.

Try that BEFORE dealing with other issues, and let us know the result. The "2AD0" code for NO receipt by DME of signal from Transmission Control Module is probably what is setting the SES light, and that will have to be traced AFTER getting Coolant Pump running.

The two Current Codes, 2DED & 9CB5 indicate "Quiescent Current" or current draw/ battery drain in excess of limits when Modules should be "asleep." That is evidenced by your battery draining if you don't disconnect Negative Terminal, but holding charge fine when you DO. "Bucket" 'til get coolant pump operating properly and engine/transmission temps OK.

George

[gbalthrop]

Ken, some additional thoughts:

1) Use BT Activations to test run Coolant Pump (AFTER clearing 2E82) to make sure it is functioning, or

2) Use Bleed Procedure described in following Link (8-step procedure near end) to test run pump (should work fine for your N54; ENGINE OFF ;-):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-check/OYeyvvP

3) AFTER testing Pump Run, use BT Parameters to read ECTS signal (Engine Temp) as you let engine idle, vehicle stationary.

4) INPA has screens where you can see Coolant Pump Speed (% of max speed) as well as ability to Activate pump and watch actual speed. BT SHOULD have something similar, so suggest you check that out.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[KRushing]

I cleared the fault codes then ran the car for 20 minutes watching various parameters on the BavarianTech device:
Coolant temp: 108 C
Radiator outlet temp: 100.5 C
Water pump power via BSD serial bit data: 99.61%
Water pump electronics temp: 101 C
Water pump current: 0.5 A
Water pump speed actual value: 41
Water pump speed nominal value: 43
Water pump operation mode: 2 O-n
Coolant temp OBD: 99 C
Coolant temp radiator outlet: 91.5 C
Coolant temp radiator outlet coarse value: 3.28
Water pump voltage: 14.10 V
Water pump speed: 41
Water pump speed difference of nominal/actual value: 0
Water pump temp electronics: 94 C
Water pump current adaption: 0.50 A
Water pump power reduced: 99.61 %
(these are all values related to coolant system I could find but there may have been more)

While car was at idle for 20 minutes the following dash warnings illuminated:
BRAKE (red)
Airbag (red)

When I attempted to drive, the car remained in limp mode. I finished the one mile loop in limp mode with the BT device connected. The coolant reached 125 C once but quickly dropped. Then the warning lights appeared: Coolant temp (orange) and gear with exclamation (orange). When I parked and turned off the car the car on lift icon illuminated red.

[KRushing]

And... here are a list of fault codes that remain:
2AB4
2DEB
2E82
2E98
5014
5E40
5DF4
5DE0
5DF7
9503
D373
D364
A0B4
604D
6051
931D
ABD2
A8B3
A670
9C6C
C910
A670
93D1
940A
9408
9406
93D0
93CE
93FB
A68A
A690

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by KRushing

And... here are a list of fault codes that remain:
2AB4
2DEB
2E82
2E98
5014
5E40
5DF4
5DE0
5DF7
9503
D373
D364
A0B4
604D
6051
931D
ABD2
A8B3
A670
9C6C
C910
A670
93D1
940A
9408
9406
93D0
93CE
93FB
A68A
A690

Can you post the text/description that comes with the code?

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by KRushing

And... here are a list of fault codes that remain:
2AB4
2DEB
2E82
2E98
5014
5E40
5DF4
5DE0
5DF7
9503
D373
D364
A0B4
604D
6051
931D
ABD2
A8B3
A670
9C6C
C910
A670
93D1
940A
9408
9406
93D0
93CE
93FB
A68A
A690

If these codes are returning after they’ve been cleared, then as rt7085 said, it’s pretty likely you’ve got bigger issues.

[dtalanga]

Originally Posted by KRushing

I cleared the fault codes then ran the car for 20 minutes watching various parameters on the BavarianTech device:
Coolant temp: 108 C
Radiator outlet temp: 100.5 C
Water pump power via BSD serial bit data: 99.61%
Water pump electronics temp: 101 C
Water pump current: 0.5 A
Water pump speed actual value: 41
Water pump speed nominal value: 43
Water pump operation mode: 2 O-n
Coolant temp OBD: 99 C
Coolant temp radiator outlet: 91.5 C
Coolant temp radiator outlet coarse value: 3.28
Water pump voltage: 14.10 V
Water pump speed: 41
Water pump speed difference of nominal/actual value: 0
Water pump temp electronics: 94 C
Water pump current adaption: 0.50 A
Water pump power reduced: 99.61 %
(these are all values related to coolant system I could find but there may have been more)

While car was at idle for 20 minutes the following dash warnings illuminated:
BRAKE (red)
Airbag (red)

When I attempted to drive, the car remained in limp mode. I finished the one mile loop in limp mode with the BT device connected. The coolant reached 125 C once but quickly dropped. Then the warning lights appeared: Coolant temp (orange) and gear with exclamation (orange). When I parked and turned off the car the car on lift icon illuminated red.

Check the battery voltage through the hidden menu, I had a similar issue where the voltage regulator was overcharging a worn out battery and burned the regulator. Symptoms were normal running at idle but as soon as gas was applied or when the car was warm then all the lights would come on, car would go into limp mode, water pump shut itself off. Another thing to check is when all of this is occurring, check the temperature on the battery, if it is bad and the alternator is overcompensating the battery will feel hot to the touch.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by KRushing

And... here are a list of fault codes that remain:
2AB4: P16A3 | 2AB4 | Internal Control Module Checksum Fault in Non-Volatile Memory
2DEB: Powermanagement: Overvoltage, Undervoltage, battery disconnected; could be ANY of those three things -- need P-code or proper definition from BT
2E82: 2E82 | DME: Electric coolant pump, cutoff | msd80
2E98: 2E98 | BSD, message; alternator: Missing | msd80 [that means theDME is/was NOT getting signal from Alternator via BSD BUS]
...[ AND 27 OTHERS!!]

Hi Ken,

I know your are probably MORE frustrated that those of us trying to help, 'cuz it's YOUR car. BUT IF we are going to accomplish ANYTHING here, we have to FOCUS and understand WHAT data you are providing to the forum. That means that YOU need to understand your BT Scan Tool, and what Data it is capable of showing:
1) Fault Codes: with (a) DEFINITIONS and (b) Freeze Frame Data, such as mileage/km when code saved
2) Parameters: (which you provided in Post #11), but particularly what your BT manual or screen suggests those parameters MEAN, such as Water Pump Actual Speed vs. Setspeed or speed DME is signaling pump to run. The DIFFERENCE between Setspeed & Actual Speed is critical, and it is know as "Speed Deviation", an early warning of pump issues. BUT you say you just replaced the Pump, so WHY the "2E82 Pump Shutdown" Fault Code? At what mileage was that Code Saved in DME (FF Data) and at what mileage did you replace the pump?
3) Activations: where you "over-ride" DME control of components such as Coolant Pump, Thermostat, or Radiator Fan, and hopefully also monitor Coolant Temp (ECTS Signal to DME) so you see the effect of increasing or decreasing speed or position.
4) Connect to Single Control Module: so that we ONLY see Fault Codes for the DME (MSD80), which allows us to focus on Coolant Pump and Cooling System Inputs, without being distracted by several dozen OTHER issues.

MOST IMPORTANT: when you post codes, we need to know the following:
1) Fault Code Number (you have provided that);
2) Fault Code DEFINITION and DETAILS, such as whether or not currently present;
3) Mileage at which Fault Code Saved in Memory (along with current mileage or mileage at time of a particular event or warning light), and other significant Freeze Frame Data. That Data provides a "snapshot" of events (including mileage) when the code was saved, and can be VERY important to proper diagnosis.

A week ago, on 7/7, you posted a list of Four (4) codes which were THEN Present, and Eight (8) codes which were NOT then present.

NOW, you post a list of 31 fault codes with NO indication of whether now present or not, whether any of the prior codes were cleared, when any of the current codes were saved in DME Memory, NO definitions, NO FF Data.

YOU have access to that information and we do NOT, so WE need YOU to understand what BT is capable of providing, and how best to provide that information to US. I am NOT familiar with BT, but I would suggest that if it is Laptop-based, that you learn how to do ScreenPrints (Shft+PrtSc), Paste that ScreenPrint to Paint (Windows 10 Accessory Photo-Editor) and SaveAs a jpg format image file in Folder of your choice, so you can then attach that jpg file to posts here. That saves you the trouble of trying to copy everything and key it in here, and WE get to see exactly what YOU see when connected to your vehicle. If you can't save a jpg of the screen, take a photo of the screen with a camera or phone and attach image file here.

The FIRST thing to FOCUS on (forget other codes or issues at the moment) is the "2E82 Coolant Pump Shutdown" and apparent-accompanying "Limp Mode." So focusing ONLY on 2E82:
1) Have you at any time CLEARED that Fault Code, and if so
2) At WHAT MILEAGE was it last saved (see Freeze Frame Data/Details)?
3) WHAT is your CURRENT MILEAGE?

In your Post #11 on Saturday, 7/13, you indicated that you cleared fault codes, and ran the car for 20 minutes "watching parameters", and the "Coolant Temp" values you posted were 108C and 99C, both for the ECTS signal to the DME (that's Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, located at the OFH on front of engine). Note the "Radiator Outlet" temps which are EXACTLY 7.5C LESS than ECTS Value. That is because your car has NO ROTS (Radiator Outlet Temp Sensor) on the Lower Radiator Hose, and that value is ALWAYS a computed value = ECTS-7.5C. Coolant Pump was running at "Actual Speed" of 41 -- 41 WHAT? -- is that 41% of Max Speed (that would be my guess, as INPA shows pump or fan speed at % of max).

So as I understand it, you had NO overheat issue during that 20 minutes, but DID have overheat issues and temp warning lights when you drove for 1 mile after that 20 minutes???

QUESTIONS:
1) You ONLY indicate TWO warning lights on dash during idle: Handbrake & Seatbelt/Airbag?
2) YET you say "When I attempted to drive, the car remained in limp mode." -- WHAT warning light or icon indicated "limp mode" and WHEN did it first appear?
3) Did the SES or any OTHER warning light appear on the instrument cluster at ANY time during 20 minute idle or 1 mile drive?
4) Did the Handbrake and/or Seatbelt/Airbag warning lights go out as you drove?

The devil is in the details, and we can only diagnose with ALL Relevant Details. My approach would be to try to find WHAT is causing the Coolant Pump Fault Code to return, and if THAT is what is causing the "limp mode." Try again CLEARING DME Fault Codes (Engine OFF, Ignition ON), and AFTER clearing them, check whatever screen in BT allows you to Read Fault Codes, and make SURE 2E82 was CLEARED. Note your mileage, and drive the 1 mile circuit with COLD engine at start; repeat if no limp mode, until you DO get limp mode, and IMMEDIATELY Note Mileage. Monitor Actual ECTS signal (Coolant Temp) as you drive using BT if possible, or use Hidden Menu 7.00 (both should show SAME value).

If you see this as an opportunity to understand how your DME Fault Memory works, what information is available, and how to retrieve it, Read Parameters, and Do Activations, it won't seem quite as bad.

If you take the time to do the things suggested above, I'll take the time to evaluate whatever Fault Codes OTHER than 2E82 you may report as "Currently Present."

George

[KRushing]

These are the following codes after leaving the car idle for 15 minutes. Also, the gear shift could not move out of park. And the coolant temp light illuminated red (temp shown was 119 C then quickly went back down) and light extinguished. The codes are read from BavarianTech reader.

Codes:
Engine
2DEB
Power management, vehicle wiring system control
Error will not cause warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

Event 1
Odometer 86763 m (this is current mileage)
Engine Speed 704 rpm
Control unit inside temp 39 C
Voltage KI. 87 17.67 v
Status motor control 2.00 0-n

CD95
Operation cruise control/ACC active cruise control, 194
Error will not cause warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Timeout

Event 1
Odometer 86763 m
Engine Speed 704 rpm
Bat voltage measured by IBS. 17.71 v
Generator nominal voltage 14.2 v
Voltage KI. 87 17.67 v

2E82
Electrical cooling pump switch off
Error will not cause warning light
Error is not currently present
Signal or value below threshold

Event 1
Odometer 86763 m
Coolant temp OBD 90 C
Water pump voltage 17.9 V
Water pump temp electronics 34 C
Water pump current adaption 0.00 A

2E98
Generator, communication
Error will not cause warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Timeout

Event 1
Odometer 86763 m
Time since start end 742.4 s
Manufacture code Generator 1 255
Characteristics generator type generator 1 255
Battery voltage 17.15

2AD0
Gear control
Error will not cause warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Event 1
Odometer 86763 m
Motor status 2.00 0-n
Calculated gear 0.00
Status motor control 2.00 0-n
Voltage KI. 87 16.45 v

Transmission management
5014
Supply voltage
Error will not cause warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

Tire Pressure
604D
RDC control module
Error will not cause warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Instrument cluster
931D
Onboard power, overvoltage, undervoltage
Error will not cause warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption

Rain/light sensor
A670
Error will not cause warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Heater and air conditioner
9C6C
12v-out peripherie
Error will not cause warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Junction Box electronics
C910
K CAN ID246 status timeout
Error will not cause warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Timeout

Roof control (FZD)
A670
Misting sensor error 0xA670
Error will not cause warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Multiple restraint system
940A
Supply voltage – over voltage in PDC
Error will not cause warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

9408
Supply voltage – low voltage in PDC
Error will not cause warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

93D1
Supply voltage – over voltage
Error will not cause warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Instrument lights illuminated:
BRAKE – red
Service Engine Soon – yellow
Vehicle inspection light – red
Traction control error – yellow
Airbag off warning light – red
Transmission fault – yellow

Thanks for all the instructions given! Let me know what other info is needed.

[N52bigblock]

Originally Posted by KRushing

These are the following codes after leaving the car idle for 15 minutes. Also, the gear shift could not move out of park. And the coolant temp light illuminated red (temp shown was 119 C then quickly went back down) and light extinguished. The codes are read from BavarianTech

Thanks for all the instructions given! Let me know what other info is needed.

Your alternator seems to be overcharging if your scan tool is correct. 17.9v is way to high. If you read the fault codes they are pretty self explanatory. I would confirm this by checking the charge rate with a digital multimeter. If it is anything like 16 or 17 volts i wouldn't be running the car at all like that. You risk damaging multiple control units. The charge rate should be about 13.5 to 14.5v.

Your coolant pump has probably got an overvoltage protection and is shutting down to protect itself from damage.

[KRushing]

As the engine ran idle for 10 min the voltage was anywhere from 11.8 to 14.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by KRushing

These are the following codes after leaving the car idle for 15 minutes. Also, the gear shift could not move out of park ...codes are read from BavarianTech reader:

2DEB | Power management, vehicle wiring system control
Voltage KI. 87 [That's Terminal 87 Voltage]: 17.67 v

CD95 | Operation cruise control/ACC active cruise control, 194
Bat voltage measured by IBS [Voltage AT Battery]: 17.71 v
Generator nominal voltage [Voltage Requested by DME?]: 14.2 v
Voltage KI. 87: 17.67 v ACTUAL Terminal 87 Voltage

2E82 | Electrical cooling pump switch off [WHY did it switch off?? --apparently due to OVERVOLTAGE]
Water pump voltage: 17.9 V

2E98 | Generator, communication
Time since start end 742.4 s [12 minutes, 22 seconds after start]
Battery voltage: 17.15

2AD0 | Gear control
Voltage KI. 87: 16.45 v

[The Remainder of Codes are consistent with OVERVOLTAGE, but do NOT show a specific Voltage]...

...Let me know what other info is needed.

System Voltage, whether measured at the Battery, Terminal 87 (Relay-switched power) or anywhere else in the Voltage Supply System, with Engine Running and Alternator Charging, should NOT exceed 15.0 Volts. "Overvoltage" in the 17+ Volt range CAN DAMAGE Electronic Components including expensive Control Modules, so you do NOT want to CONTINUE to run the engine when Voltage spikes or intermittent Voltage in excess of 15.0V is occurring.

The cautious approach would be to change your Voltage Regulator NOW simply on the basis of the data above. If you want PROOF that voltage spikes or intermittent Overvoltage is the cause of the coolant pump shutdown, you COULD elect to do the following:
1) Clear all codes shown above -- All current codes in DME (assuming you have already recorded all the data for historical purposes);
2) Determine how BT can show you LIVE DATA of System Voltage, and display that screen. It should show System Voltage ~ 12.5V BEFORE you start engine. Start a timer/stopwatch when you start engine in step (3). Having A/C, and/or radio on will probably speed the "Overvoltage" event, so might as well test in comfort.
2a) If BT or any other Scan Tool available to you can "Log" System Voltage over elapsed time for 15 minutes, that would be simpler than the method described, but YOU can log Low or High voltage incidents as described below without "Logging" by Scan Tool.
3) With BT Display showing System Voltage, start engine and watch the Voltage readout closely. It SHOULD be in the 13.5V to 14.8V range. Also note ANY warning icons on dash AFTER startup. Record ANY Voltage readings outside that range, either High or Low, and the approximate elapsed time since startup.
4) If any warning icons appear on dash, record elapsed time when that occurred.
5) If RED temp warning light appears on dash, SHUT DOWN, and record time.
6) Read codes and FF Data as before, and particularly look for Overvoltage (voltage > 15.0V) and 2E82 Pump shutdown code & FF Data.

If BT uses a laptop display as opposed to a separate screen, use Shft+PrtSc to do a "ScreenPrint" which you can then Paste to "Paint" which is the Windows Photo Editor Accessory; in Paint, "SaveAs" the ScreenPrint as a jpg format file in folder of your choice and then attach that file here rather than keying the info. That's also helpful for your future reference to any BT Screen info.

If you can remove the Alternator and change the Voltage Regulator on the rear of the alternator yourself, ~ $45 is all YOU need. Replacing the entire Alternator (what a shop would tell you, and what should be done if someone else is doing the labor) would cost ~ 10 times that much for parts (~ $450). No one can guarantee merely replacing the Voltage Regulator would resolve the issue, but for a DIY type, that is certainly what should be done with your codes, FF Data & symptoms. Example of replacement Voltage Regulator for 180 Amp Bosch Alternator (check to see if that's what YOUR's is):
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/BS-12317561939

As for why your Gear Shift Lever will not leave Park Position -- that's another issue entirely AFAIK.

George

[KRushing]

Woooohoooo! All is well! No fault codes! The voltage regulator took care of everything. Many, many, many thanks! You all are making me a BMW mechanic. Great learning experience!