[TAVIUX511]

Hi guys,

freshmen here in the BMW world. got my F30 a few months ago. thought it would be a great idea by replacing halogen with LEDs - maybe a did it wrong, did not disconnect the battery and placed the bulbs with the ignition still on. I haven't had time to check the fuse box but my left side is all blacked out. low beam high beam and turn signal light. what did go wrong besides my stupid action?

[chowser51]

Report back after checking fuses. If that didn’t fix it, put the halogens back in and see if it works again.

[bimmer456]

Not sure if LED bulbs are a direct replacement or you need additional hardware for them to work like a ballast or something.

[Billfitz]

You can't just stick in LEDs, no matter what the ads say. Coding is an absolute necessity. My experience:
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1377259

There's no need to disconnect the battery when installing LEDs, but having the ignition off is an absolute must, otherwise not only can you blow fuses, you can blow the FEM, Front Electronics Module.

[Fliplegend]

It's because your car is expecting a non-LED bulb and when it does a voltage check, the return value does not match. Like Billfitz said, you will have to code the car so it expects an LED bulb or disable the voltage check.

[deviantspeed]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

You can't just stick in LEDs, no matter what the ads say. Coding is an absolute necessity.

I'd agree right there. Modern cars have bulb checks.

Now you might be able to use one of those adapters... forget what they are called... But let's not go to the LED/HID in a reflector housing discussion quite yet

[thatBimmerBloke]

For my previous car, 14 328ix, I swapped halogens with LEDs and they worked right away even without coding out anything, but I did have to code out the warning due to heat check(warm/cold monitoring) and also changed the value for something like is_led from nicht_aktiv to aktiv. You also need to take care of the positive and negative side of the connector, I initially connected it wrong and didn't work, on correcting it started working. And yes, should have had the ignition turned off, hopefully, it's just a blown fuse, good luck!

[bimmer456]

Originally Posted by thatBimmerBloke

For my previous car, 14 328ix, I swapped halogens with LEDs and they worked right away even without coding out anything, but I did have to code out the warning due to heat check(warm/cold monitoring) and also changed the value for something like is_led from nicht_aktiv to aktiv. You also need to take care of the positive and negative side of the connector, I initially connected it wrong and didn't work, on correcting it started working. And yes, should have had the ignition turned off, hopefully, it's just a blown fuse, good luck!

Maybe unplug the negative battery terminal as unlocking the car also turns on lights.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Fliplegend

It's because your car is expecting a non-LED bulb and when it does a voltage check, the return value does not match..

That wouldn't cause the left side lamps to all not work.

[MyEvo8u]

Check the fuse box too like someone else has mentioned. I have experience similar issues where half the car blacks out with a fuse being popped.

[AK415]

If you replaced all the bulbs and they don't work, try to turn the bulb around and try again. I believe LEDs have dedicated +/- and it has to be installed accordingly, not simply plug and play like halogen. I changed my signal light and it was the case here.

If you replaced one bulb and everything don't work, you may want to check your fuse like other mentioned.

[TAVIUX511]

Guys I am overwhelmed with all of your replies, Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question. Since I got my F30 - I am learning as I go. First BMW ever and I absolutely love it, Can't drive it because I am waiting for a fuse kit I bought on Amazon which I am sure its the case. I bought a not too expensive set of LED's since it came with factory halogens and who likes those anyways? can barely see at night. Just as a test. Who would of know I would mess up the whole thing.

Since you are so kind, I will ask another question without making a new thread.

I have a system too rich report p1072 I believe and I read that it can be a list of things, MAF AND O2 SENSORS being the main ones. the car has a high number of millage on it (158k) and I doubt these were taken care of. N26 motors are fast as hell but it consumes gas like crazy so want to take care of that too. I read on the internet that o2 sensors are less likely to be the case because of a system check which first gets through the sensors and then the MAF. I don't know if a remember well but it's close to that. I bought A Veepeak OBD SCANNER so I would be able to use BIMMERCODE so Maybe I'll buy an app with pro features and check for the real problems...

[TAVIUX511]

Originally Posted by AK415

If you replaced all the bulbs and they don't work, try to turn the bulb around and try again. I believe LEDs have dedicated +/- and it has to be installed accordingly, not simply plug and play like halogen. I changed my signal light and it was the case here.

If you replaced one bulb and everything don't work, you may want to check your fuse like other mentioned.

you are correct, Did just that but As someone said above, these LED'S DO need some brackets to hold into the headlight housing which I am unsure which ones I need with this kit I got - BEAMTECH is the name.

[Billfitz]

I didn't need any brackets for my LEDs. My experience:
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1377259

[TAVIUX511]

SO I just decided to go for a little Saturday fun on my F30 and the Toretto in me stepped out. I am going to be completely honest even if I sound like a total idiot... I blew the transmission for not operating the sport mode properly. or so I believe. I think I went too far without shifting into second gear after the green light... and about half a block the car just made a big bang and the wheels locked in... I did about 55 mph in that sprint and after the wheels locked the car just shift it back into neutral and made a complete stop about a block after.

I am now thinking The transmission is toasted - the drivetrain warning came on describing the trans. can no longer shift gears and it won't turn on either. you cannot move the shifter.

Does anyone have an idea of what else could it be damaged from this issue?

all I know if that It will cost me a lot of money to repair it.

Thank you.

[floridaorange]

Wow what? You redlined in 1st gear and the car stopped running with tires locking up? How many miles on car, any other mods? What's a toretto?

[Tavicu]

Originally Posted by floridaorange

What's a toretto?

Dominic Toretto, a character from The Fast and The Furious!

I could not stop laugh )

[eddymerckx3]

...is this thread for real...??

[AK415]

Wow... the issue just escalated to another level.

Were there any grinding noise after? hopefully it is something simple like driveshaft or torque converter. keep us posted!

[thatBimmerBloke]

Doesn't the car cut power if you miss a shift to avoid damage? Has happened with me a couple of times in 1st gear as I forgot I was in sport+ with shifter at M/S It completely cut down the power immediately.

[awilki0101]

Originally Posted by thatBimmerBloke

Doesn't the car cut power if you miss a shift to avoid damage? Has happened with me a couple of times in 1st gear as I forgot I was in sport+ with shifter at M/S It completely cut down the power immediately.

Yes. Not sure this whole thing is real. First posts about codes and running rich, then says his LED's don't work and with all that thinks its a good idea to push a high mileage car hard??

[MmmmmM2]

Originally Posted by awilki0101

Yes. Not sure this whole thing is real. First posts about codes and running rich, then says his LED's don't work and with all that thinks its a good idea to push a high mileage car hard??

Plus he has a complete other thread related to the second issue.