[cbarlow]

My 2013 335i xDrive Sport Line doesn't seem to have the same ride and handling it once did. At 83K miles and 6 years since the original in-service date, I imagine that the struts/shocks are simply wearing out. They not leaking or anything, but like I said, the ride and handling doesn't seem as good.

I'm not looking to lower the vehicle or anything. I just want to restore the original factory feel and performance. Bilstein, Koni, and Genuine BMW parts seem to be the options. Would the Bilstein B4 be a good choice? Would the Koni Special Active (Red) be a better choice for any reason? What else might be recommended?

[cfm56d7b]

I had the same vehicle in the past. Nice to see another owner reaching 80K miles.

Since you live in Michigan, I sense comfortable ride is one of the requirements. Your xDrive vehicle has base suspension and there isn't anything wrong with it other than less than sport oriented behavior: noticeable body roll, floating symptoms. Installing OEM shocks and springs (suggest to replace both) is the easiest choice to make.

Bilstein B4 shocks + OEM springs: equally good choice. The ride will be more controlled, little or no body roll.

Another recommended option: KW Street Comfort coilovers which can be installed at OEM suspension height. While these coilovers will not offer analogous OEM xDrive comfort, the suspension behavior will be transformed. The average price is $1.6K plus installation.

When was the last time the vehicle had 4 wheel alignment?

[johnung]

I've got a 2015 335i xDrive. I installed the Koni Special Active Red dampers last summer when they were first available in the US. I really love them. I was looking for something that would soften the harshness of the OEM shocks on rough roads and highway road seams. (I'm near Philly so bad roads here.) Yet I wanted a shock that would act sporty and controlled on curves. The technology in these was developed by Koni and McLaren. It has preset dual valves each made to handle the very different wavelengths in those two scenarios. When driven, it acts like an electronic active damper without the cost and complexity. I couldn't be happier.

At the same time I changed the springs to an Eibach kit for the xDrive (-06 in the part#) that has a drop of 0.8" front and 0.6" rear. These are about 10% stiffer than stock springs. The last time I looked they were about $300 for the set.

With that many miles on your car you really should replace the springs too. Especially since you are already paying the labor to do the shocks, it shouldn't cost any more to do the springs at the same time. They actually have to remove the spring off the front strut to change it. And in the rear the spring is right next to the shock, so its a few extra minutes.

I still have my original OEM springs that I replaced with only 15k miles on them. I can make you a deal and ship them to you. Just let me know. Your car will ride better than new with the dampers and springs. With all these replacements at all four corners, definitely get a 4 wheel alignment from a dealer or from an alignment shop that knows what they are doing. Have them double-check the headlight alignment afterwards as well. Hope this helps!

[cbarlow]

Yeah, since the roads here in Michigan are terrible and this is my daily driver, ride comfort is definitely a requirement. But I also like a balance with decent handling so that I can have some fun on the better roads.

So I should do the springs too eh? I wasn't sure if that would be necessary or if the original factory springs could continue to be used. What about the mounts or any of the other hardware? Is there any need to replace those?

The vehicle was last aligned 2 1/2 years ago at 40K when I had new tires put on. I planned to get an alignment done immediately after replacing the struts and shocks.

FCP Euro carries the Bilstein B4s. Given their lifetime warranty, that option thus is very appealing. Besides, the B4s on all four corners is only $425.

[Lysol]

I highly recommend Bilstein B4 if refreshed stock ride is what you're after (especially for the price).

I temporarily ran with a set for a few months and loved they way they felt! However I eventually opted for something a bit firmer for auto-cross (personal preference as the roads as semi decent where I live).

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by cbarlow

Yeah, since the roads here in Michigan are terrible and this is my daily driver, ride comfort is definitely a requirement. But I also like a balance with decent handling so that I can have some fun on the better roads.

So I should do the springs too eh? I wasn't sure if that would be necessary or if the original factory springs could continue to be used. What about the mounts or any of the other hardware? Is there any need to replace those?

The vehicle was last aligned 2 1/2 years ago at 40K when I had new tires put on. I planned to get an alignment done immediately after replacing the struts and shocks.

FCP Euro carries the Bilstein B4s. Given their lifetime warranty, that option thus is very appealing. Besides, the B4s on all four corners is only $425.

Are you planning to have everything installed by an indy shop or yourself?

Replacing springs would be prudent due to mileage and labor costs savings.

[sspade]

Honestly.... Bilstein B4 would be a FINE choice. A great choice actually.

If you wanted to spend a bit more you could go with the B6.

Those are the two I would consider with STOCK springs or mayyybe a MILD drop spring... If I were xDrive.

Just my opinion.

I rock Bilstein B8 and couldnt be happier. But Im not xDrive.

[sspade]

Also. If you have a decent place to work... a basic set of tools... and the handwork/patience...

I would two hundred percent DIY this upgrade. The rears are about as basic as could be. The fronts, a touch more complicated.

If not, a fair indy should be able to swap for about a $100 per corner. Probably a $500-$600 job with an alignment at the right shop. Be careful not to over pay.

[M Smurf]

Originally Posted by sspade

Also. If you have a decent place to work... a basic set of tools... and the handwork/patience...

I would two hundred percent DIY this upgrade. The rears are about as basic as could be. The fronts, a touch more complicated.

If not, a fair indy should be able to swap for about a $100 per corner. Probably a $500-$600 job with an alignment at the right shop. Be careful not to over pay.

I'd like to take on this project soon. Did you replace all the other smaller components as well eg bump stops, bellows, etc?