[MattXYZ]

Here's a quick write up of my Thinkware F770 dashcam install.

Hopefully it's of use to some folk who are considering fitting a dashcam.


Fuse diagram can be found here - thanks to sor:
https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showp...85&postcount=7

Fuse slots I used and have been noted by other members:
F27 for constant power to the battery - this was an unused slot.
F46 for switched

What you need before starting:
Trim removal tools - I bought a set from Halfords for about £20
Long nose pliers or cable crimping tool
Voltmeter if you are going to use different fuse slots to mine
Fuse pulling tool or tweezers - there's one in the rear fuse panel
"add-a-fuse" connectors
2 x 5 amp blade fuses
Paperclip for ground


Tools



Here's what you get in the box: main unit; rear camera; 32gb micro SD card; 3M sticky pads; 3M sticky cable clips; USB adapter for micro SD card; hardwire power cable (3m length); USB cable for rear camera (4m+ length); documents.


Main unit is about 4.25 inches wide.


Rear camera is quite compact and the angle can be adjusted by twisting the body round.


The main camera angle is adjusted by turning the screw or by moving the camera by hand.


I tapped into the front fuse box which is located under the right side of the dashboard (UK driver side / US passenger side).
This is easily reachable and all cables can be hidden. I've read some recommendations using the fuse box in the back of the car but I have found that the power cable that came with my F770 was only 3m long and didn't reach - it needs about 4m of cable to reach the boot.
The dashboard panel is easily removed by 2 plastic tabs. You will see the fuse panel tucked up close to the right and it's quite fiddly to access. Please refer to the fuse diagram at the top of this post (thanks to sor). Fuse F46 is tight up against the right side and the carpet trim has to be pushed out of the way in order to reach it. Be very careful to use the fuse puller and ensure you get a good grip - it looks really easy to drop the fuse and puller down behind the carpet trim!!
The add-a-fuse fuse holder takes 2 fuses - the original fuse (i.e. from F46) goes in slot A (nearest to the pins) and the fuse for the dashcam goes in slot B (nearest to the wire). At this point before tidying any cables, you should connect the power and test the unit. Wire labelled BATT to fuse F27 - you can see in my picture that there is only 1 fuse connected because F27 is an unused slot. Wire labelled ACC to fuse F46.
Don't forget to the ground cable! The chassis of the car is ground. I simply used a paper clip to fasten the ground cable to the point where the chassis is exposed.
I downloaded the Thinkware software to my iPhone, connected using the wifi and checked I saw a picture and checked the various settings. I also connected the rear camera and tested that too.


If you're going to set up the rear camera, I'd recommend doing the rear camera wiring/tucking first because it's the trickiest part!!



I started with the wiring for the rear camera because it involves the most trim removal and tucking of wires. The panel at top of rear window under the spoiler is easily removed by inserting a trim removal tool and pulling gently to release the tabs.
The perfect location for the camera is conveniently marked out by the rectangle shape made by the rear screen heating elements! Run the camera wire in behind the body work.


Route cable behind the plastic panel towards the boot/trunk lid hinge. You can then push the cable down along the back of the hinge.


You can then easily pull the cable out from the back of the hinge by using a trim removal tool to pull the roof lining down around the plastic trim.


You can remove the plastic panel on left side of boot/trunk for easier access and any excess cable can be pushed down into the gap later.


With the tricky part of rear camera wiring done, I would recommend leaving the panels off and the wiring loose for now. The wiring can be tidied up once you've got the camera set up and all the wiring in place.



Next is to mount your main camera. I've located mine on the passenger side of the windscreen. Note that the camera is mounted on a base with tabs that you can slide the camera on/off - it needs about 1/2 inch space to the right to slide the camera across to remove. You can mount the camera quite close the roof - the wires will tuck up into the roof lining. Note that the wires feed in to a recess on the left side of the camera.


In my case, my camera is on left side of the windscreen with the fuse box on the right side of the dashboard, so I have to route the wiring across the in-built sensor/camera unit. The plastic panel is easily popped off by inserting a trim removal tool.


The camera wiring can be easily tucked up between the roof lining and the tabs that hold the plastic cover.


Tuck the wiring up into the roof lining from the camera, across the in-built sensor housing, up into the roof lining across the right side dash and then into the top of the A pillar - be careful here because there's an airbag in that A pillar and only tuck in just enough for the wire to the hidden. You can then run the wiring down behind the rubber door seal down to the underside of the dashboard.


There's a convenient little channel between the door seal and the dashboard where the wire can sit. You can probably push the wire down into the plastic trim but it's quite tight/stiff there so I didn't bother.

Tuck all the excess wire into the gap behind/above the fuse panel. You can now close up the dashboard panel.


Next is to plug in and tidy up the cable for the rear camera. You've already done the hard part of the rear camera cable routing.
Now carefully take the loose end that is to be plugged into the main camera unit.
Tuck the cable into the roof lining above the camera and plug the end into the camera.
Tuck the cables up into the roof lining towards the left A pillar.
Tuck the cable around the A pillar and into the rubber door seal along the top of the door opening towards the B pillar.
Tuck the wire around the B pillar and then into the rubber door seal around top of the rear door.
Tuck the wire around the C pillar and then up into the roof lining above the rear quarter window - this is quite tight and tricky!
You will then have reached the D pillar where you have removed the plastic panel in the rear.


You can tuck all the excess cable down into the gap behind the panel.


Mount your rear camera using the 3M sticky pad. Note the markings on the camera casing to ensure you have it the right way up! However, I think there is a way to configure the camera picture to flip 180.

Replace your plastic trim pieces by carefully aligning them and pushing in firmly.



Done!


View of rear view mirror. You can see the camera in the mirror, but it's not too intrusive. In my previous car, there was a recessed area between the rear window and the roof/ceiling so the camera was not visible at all in the rear view mirror.

[teaston]

Good write up.

I hardwired my dashcam today, not sure about your paperclip ground connection though? I used a ring crimp onto this nut:

[MattXYZ]

Originally Posted by teaston

Good write up.

I hardwired my dashcam today, not sure about your paperclip ground connection though? I used a ring crimp onto this nut:

I tried to undo one of the nuts to fasten the ground to but the nuts were super tight! I used a paper clip and bent it around the hole using the pointy pliers - it's not moving anywhere! However, I do agree that it would be better to use some kind of clamp that can be screwed tight.

[teaston]

Originally Posted by MattXYZ

I tried to undo one of the nuts to fasten the ground to but the nuts were super tight! I used a paper clip and bent it around the hole using the pointy pliers - it's not moving anywhere! However, I do agree that it would be better to use some kind of clamp that can be screwed tight.

That nut is really easy to undo, I only used a 1/8” socket wrench.

[gooddog]

Nice write up! MattXYZ I appreciate the pics. Did this on another vehicle and see the principal is just about the same.

Thanks for the instructions.

[Dutch1576]

Would this install method also work for a BlackVue DR900S? Assuming both constant power and switched power using F27 & F46?

[MattXYZ]

Originally Posted by Dutch1576

Would this install method also work for a BlackVue DR900S? Assuming both constant power and switched power using F27 & F46?

Those fuses will be fine. However, I’m not directly familiar with Blackvue installation. I believe Blackvue doesn’t have an inbuilt low voltage cut-off - so if you want to enable parking mode, you will need to install an additional battery or a device like power magic pro.

[Dutch1576]

Originally Posted by MattXYZ

Those fuses will be fine. However, I’m not directly familiar with Blackvue installation. I believe Blackvue doesn’t have an inbuilt low voltage cut-off - so if you want to enable parking mode, you will need to install an additional battery or a device like power magic pro.

Thanks Matt.

Anyone else familiar with the BlackVue DR900s, and the best solution for enabling parking mode without the possible need of an additional battery? How safe would it be to forgo the battery? I'm OK with also picking up a Power Magic Pro if needed, assuming that would be installed into the fusebox as described. Can someone confirm? Thanks.

[nogren]

Originally Posted by Dutch1576

Thanks Matt.

Anyone else familiar with the BlackVue DR900s, and the best solution for enabling parking mode without the possible need of an additional battery? How safe would it be to forgo the battery? I'm OK with also picking up a Power Magic Pro if needed, assuming that would be installed into the fusebox as described. Can someone confirm? Thanks.

There are threads here about the blackvue. If installing on constant power, it will drain your battery until you get a warning that it's low, and comfort access does not work.

If you want parking mode, I suggest you pick up their recommended battery solution and connect to the switches fuse. Also note that most switches fuses actually are live another 7 minutes or so after power off engine.

[MediaMan]

I use a Viofo V119 which uses a USB connection via the 12v socket in the console in front of the gear lever.

Presumably by cutting the USB off, stripping the cable back, I can connect one cable to F46, and to earth the other so the camera fires up when the car starts?

Are the fuses Standard, Mini or Micro?

Thanks

[teaston]

Originally Posted by MediaMan

I use a Viofo V119 which uses a USB connection via the 12v socket in the console in front of the gear lever.

Presumably by cutting the USB off, stripping the cable back, I can connect one cable to F46, and to earth the other so the camera fires up when the car starts?

Are the fuses Standard, Mini or Micro?

Thanks

You could do, or get one of these to plug it into. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F163159738757

Or get the official Viofo hardwire kit:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07GFFLK..._xNXCCbYSAFXCR

They’re normal ATO fuses, so you need an “add a circuit” to fit that fuse socket.

[MediaMan]

Great - thanks

[spangle1980]

Now THAT is a pretty awesome share!

[devil84]

thanks for the share on this.

i am struggling to hide the all wire behind the A Pillar. about 5cm on show.

did you remove the airbag plastic cover to access the screw and then remove?

[MattXYZ]

Originally Posted by devil84

thanks for the share on this.

i am struggling to hide the all wire behind the A Pillar. about 5cm on show.

did you remove the airbag plastic cover to access the screw and then remove?

Hi devil84

If you mean at the top of the A pillar, then you should be able to move the loose bit of cable around to the windscreen side of the A pillar and tuck it into the headliner.

[suby01]

THIS is exactly what I spent hours looking for. Thanks OP.
Im sure I will have some questions but it seems straightforward.

[suby01]

The Thinkware is definitely the top choice for discreet looking dash cams. I ordered another one for the upcoming X3. It just looks so OEM sitting there.

[littleump]

Great write up, hows the install a few months in?

[wingzee]

Thanks MattXYZ for coming up with this informative and comprehensive install guide. I have followed the guide religiously for my Viofo A129 Duo install over Christmas on my MY20 M40i.

It is a switched-only setup with a piggyback fuse tap on F46 at the front fuse box which turns off about 6-7mins - plan to add the a Cellink Neo soon for a more robust parking mode system.

Gotta admit the trickiest bit was to route the cabling and hide it for B and C pillars since they are such tight spots!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t5lfh0mt3n...%20am.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/d4cmtjl514...%20am.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pjp3g307fy...%20am.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ex3xbvp18u...%20am.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zkz1zbgsdc...%20am.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dz2hkl6bc6...%20am.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z9qfwyeryl...%20am.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/35me57e5lk...%20am.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qq3f9gao5m...%20am.jpg?dl=0

[nb67]

MattXYZ, like others on here, thanks for the write up.

I've just installed our front dash cam and piggy backed F46, man, that's a tough little bugger to get to with the carpet in the way, I can see how easy it is to drop the fuse and lose it forever behind the carpet.

The rear cam will be going in this weekend, just need to search the forum for which switched live fuse to piggy back off in the rear fuse box.

[MattXYZ]

Interesting... you need separate power for the rear cam?

On my thinkware, the usb cable connects and powers from the main front cam to the rear cam.

[nb67]

Originally Posted by MattXYZ

Interesting... you need separate power for the rear cam?

On my thinkware, the usb cable connects and powers from the main front cam to the rear cam.

Sorry for the confusion Matt.

It's a seperate dash cam altogether, an old Transcend that's never let me down in 4yrs.

We have a Nextbase up front and I'll be hard wiring the Transcend into the rear, possibly into fuse 207 in the rear by the sounds of it.