[11e90Ride]

This is an update to a previous post: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=990273

I thought I was done, but COMBOX failure: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1577944

I did this work in March of 2018, sorry for the delay. I acquired the following:

Pioneer AVH-2330NEX DVD Receiver
Pioneer CD-MC20 Auto-EQ Microphone
PAC Audio RP4.2-BM21 RadioPro4 BM21
Metra 40-EU10 Antenna to Radio Adapter Cable
MicroBypass ALL AVH-X Video In Motion Interface for Select Pioneer Receivers
Ai BMWK320 Radio Replacement Kit 2006-2011 BMW 3 Series
Cable Matters USB 3.1 Type C (USB-C) to Type A (USB-A)

Note that car (2011 328i sedan ) came with factory bluetooth/handfree, USB, and is a HiFi car. I had already completed Audio upgrade, part one, described in link above, which made this install pretty straight-forward, except for hunting down where to tap factory bluetooth mic and factory USB / TRS audio connections.

I made the following:

BMW-to-standard USB adapter cable:
BMW -> USB Standard

Power: Green -> Red
Ground: Blue -> Black
DAT+: Brown -> Green
DAT-: Orange -> White



BMW-to-standard TRS audio adapter cable


I should have got a pick of the back of the center console where the factory USB and Audio connections are, but I didn't.

I tapped factory handsfree Micrpohone here ( yellow is + ):




Other than than I used the harness that came with the PAC Audio RadioPro4 (adding the MicroBypass), follow the instructions for it, and everything just worked.

I will say that tuning the system with the Pioneer Auto-EQ was fruitless, apart from it getting the audio timing pretty close. The balance was way off. Far too much treble. The level and timing adjustments available in the NEX HU do make for creating pretty awesome soundstage.

I programmed all of the steering wheel buttons to my liking, and pretty much enjoy Android Auto \ Waze \ Spotify all the time now, and my wife loves the setup compared to the cumbersome setup the car had with the combox.

Couple of oddities: The e90 factory USB port is old-school pre-usb 2. If you force a later style USB cable all the way in, it will not work. You have to stop a little short. I was unable to find a USB-C (Pixel 2) to USB 1.0 cable. DOn't think such an item exists. If I had a 3D printer, I'd make a 1/8" collar that slipped over the USB connector that prevents the USB connector from going too far in.

I installed one of these units (2440-NEX) in my C6 Corvette 3 months later and used the microphone that came with the NEX unit ( because the C6 never had Handsfree calling), and the Pioneer mic is better...the BMW one seems a little over-sensitive. if I was to do it all over, I would take the time to wire in that mic, but put it in the same location as the factory one (roof module).

The PAC Audio unit comes with a chime speaker, but I didn't need it as my car had a speaker the PAC just plugged into.

The very bottom of the Ai Bezel sort of sticks out a bit.

The NEX unit needed a firmware update from A/A to work.

Overall, pretty happy the COMBOX failed. Dealer wanted $1000 bucks for a replacement. I think this solution cost around $600, but admittedly took hours of research and planning.

Thanks to the forum as always....a ton of the content I needed to complete this came from this forum.

[techy101]

I just picked up a 2009 335i and am looking at swapping out the head unit using the PAC module. One question, does the PAC unit keep the factory bluetooth microphones for use with the new head unit?

[11e90Ride]

Originally Posted by techy101

I just picked up a 2009 335i and am looking at swapping out the head unit using the PAC module. One question, does the PAC unit keep the factory bluetooth microphones for use with the new head unit?

No, it does not do that for you. I tapped into factory mic (illustrated in the 3rd picture).

In hindsite, I would have used mic that came with Pioneer head unit... a better match and people hear you better.

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by 11e90Ride

Couple of oddities: The e90 factory USB port is old-school pre-usb 2. If you force a later style USB cable all the way in, it will not work. You have to stop a little short. I was unable to find a USB-C (Pixel 2) to USB 1.0 cable. DOn't think such an item exists. If I had a 3D printer, I'd make a 1/8" collar that slipped over the USB connector that prevents the USB connector from going too far in.

This doesn't make much sense. I don't believe there's a physical size difference between the USB A 1, 2 or 3 connectors. If you have one that doesn't fit right, it's not made to spec. I haven't had any issues plugging any USB 2 or 3 cable into my 2010 USB 335i USB jack. Now, if you want to talk about USB power delivery...yeah, that's useless for modern mobile devices.

Nice work, though.