[TheMidnightNarwhal]

I always had in mind that running thicker oil (0W-40) was better for performance driving since our engines are more sporty than a normal commuter car and it would offer more wear protection, but now that winter is coming and it's getting colder I think it's causing really slow warm up time. Oil barely hits operating temp if I'm on the highway or takes a good 15 to 20 minutes to heat up fully.

Next oil change I am unsure if I should put in some 0w-30? From searching it seems 0W-30 would be more normal oil and to put 0W-40 once you start consuming a lot of oil or for higher millage cars?

Or will it make barely a difference?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Although there are many theories and myths on oil, what is true is it's always going to take oil longer to warm up in cooler temperatures.

That being said, we recommend folks run 40W. 30W is fine for a stock vehicle that otherwise would see typical day to day driving without any extreme driving conditions.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Although there are many theories and myths on oil, what is true is it's always going to take oil longer to warm up in cooler temperatures.

That being said, we recommend folks run 40W. 30W is fine for a stock vehicle that otherwise would see typical day to day driving without any extreme driving conditions.

Yeah, I also learned thicker oil actually heats up quicker apparently so there's that..

As for the grade, since I can only have one oil per year and in the winter I am more of a tame driver (even though I still run the tune) I guess 0w-40 will do.

[hassmaschine]

0W is how well the oil pours at low temperature. -40 or -30 is how well the oil protects at operating temp. For cold starts, all that matters is the first part.

Given the low-temp ratings are identical, it makes sense to stick with the 0w40 year round. 20 years ago, oils with such high spreads weren't even possible, so you would normally have a 10w30 or a 20w50 and not much in between.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

0W is how well the oil pours at low temperature. -40 or -30 is how well the oil protects at operating temp. For cold starts, all that matters is the first part.

Given the low-temp ratings are identical, it makes sense to stick with the 0w40 year round. 20 years ago, oils with such high spreads weren't even possible, so you would normally have a 10w30 or a 20w50 and not much in between.

Yeah for sure, the 0w part I want to keep.

But between 0w-40 and 0w-30 I wasn't sure what was better. I thought 40 since it's thicker and protects better at operating but I've been told that's not always the case so I just wasn't to sure anymore.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

0W is how well the oil pours at low temperature. -40 or -30 is how well the oil protects at operating temp. For cold starts, all that matters is the first part.

Given the low-temp ratings are identical, it makes sense to stick with the 0w40 year round. 20 years ago, oils with such high spreads weren't even possible, so you would normally have a 10w30 or a 20w50 and not much in between.

Just one caveat...the 30 or 40 isn't really an indication of how well the oil protects at operating temp, but rather the viscosity of the oil at operating temp. Oil viscosities are specified based on specific tolerances and operating parameters of the engine.

[hassmaschine]

that's true, but generally it gives you an idea of how well it works at higher temp. If you're doing a track day and it's 100f out, you'll want the extra viscosity.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

that's true, but generally it gives you an idea of how well it works at higher temp. If you're doing a track day and it's 100f out, you'll want the extra viscosity.

agreed...

[Wolf 335]

Why not just stick with the manufacturer recommendation.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Why not just stick with the manufacturer recommendation.

The manufacturer recommends 4 different grades lol.

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Why not just stick with the manufacturer recommendation.

If we did that, we'd all be driving bone stock boring vehicles.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Hey guys I also noticed something. My 335is and the 1M Coupe basically have the same engine (N54T code)

The official BMW M Twin power oil 0W-40 oil lists it's for the 1M Series, M2 and the new M3 and M4.

So I guess 0W-40 would be more suitable.

[Rob09msport]

Film strength is what protects the weight manipulates pressure but reduces flow. Thicker oil does take longer to heat but also longer to cool bitog explains alot but quality oil is more important than 5w30 or 0w40 alot of 0w40 are closer to a 30 weight and Mobil one is a 30 weight after a few k milesdue to sheering.

[bbnks2]

Thicker oil is always going to produce more friction = higher pressure = MORE HEAT. Never the opposite. Not sure why people keep saying otherwise.

Warm up is longer in the winter. It's always going to be. Running thinner oil, as it's measured at 210f, is definitely not going to do anything to reduce warm up time. Winter is when you want to run the 0W oils , which is the oils kinematic viscosity rating at 0f, for better cold start protection. SAE grading is based on cSt which has nothing to do with pouring. "Pour point" of the oil at -30* is a completely different test than cSt.

The 30 or 40 SAE rating is telling you the viscosity range (cSt) of the oil at 210f. Viscosity is not any kind of indicator of protection or quality. It simply a measure/test of how easily the oil moves through a tube at that specific temperature. The largest affect of viscosity is oil pressure and flow. It is true though that dynamic viscosity ratings like HTHS generally increase as kinematic viscosity ratings such as cSt increase...

Durability and "protection" of an oil is going to be a combination of pretty much every standardized test you can find data on... HTHS rating, NOACK %, viscosity index, TBN etc. There is no "one" measurement of how well an oil will protect an engine. You don't run the highest shear resistant oil you can find because it would also be too thick and reduce flow... sure the oil would be durable, but the bearing will still get wiped dry lol

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

I always had in mind that running thicker oil (0W-40) was better for performance driving since our engines are more sporty than a normal commuter car and it would offer more wear protection, but now that winter is coming and it's getting colder I think it's causing really slow warm up time. Oil barely hits operating temp if I'm on the highway or takes a good 15 to 20 minutes to heat up fully.

Next oil change I am unsure if I should put in some 0w-30? From searching it seems 0W-30 would be more normal oil and to put 0W-40 once you start consuming a lot of oil or for higher millage cars?

Or will it make barely a difference?

I run my N54 on 5w-40 year round & I live in the mid-west where we have winters, from time to time, that it's -10 to -25 degrees driving to work in the morning. I just make sure I let the engine warmup up to at least idol before I take off and don't rev it past 3500 rpms until I'm at least 180 degrees oil temp.

[gurusan]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I run my N54 on 5w-40 year round & I live in the mid-west where we have winters, from time to time, that it's -10 to -25 degrees driving to work in the morning. I just make sure I let the engine warmup up to at least idol before I take off and don't rev it past 3500 rpms until I'm at least 180 degrees oil temp.

Temps like those I'd run 0w-40 instead...maybe unless it's garaged.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I run my N54 on 5w-40 year round & I live in the mid-west where we have winters, from time to time, that it's -10 to -25 degrees driving to work in the morning. I just make sure I let the engine warmup up to at least idol before I take off and don't rev it past 3500 rpms until I'm at least 180 degrees oil temp.

Just because its running OK with 5W doesnt mean its the best option.

If you see how much better 0W pours in freezing weather you would run 0W.

[MNick]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Hey guys I also noticed something. My 335is and the 1M Coupe basically have the same engine (N54T code)

The official BMW M Twin power oil 0W-40 oil lists it's for the 1M Series, M2 and the new M3 and M4.

So I guess 0W-40 would be more suitable.

Off-topic:

Really nice motor, which has parts from the N55. I recently realized this when having my motor rebuilt.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by MNick

Off-topic:

Really nice motor, which has parts from the N55. I recently realized this when having my motor rebuilt.

Off topic. What parts from n55 and why you had to rebuild your n54?

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by feuer

Off topic. What parts from n55 and why you had to rebuild your n54?

I am guessing he was referring to the N55 M2.

[MNick]

Originally Posted by feuer

Off topic. What parts from n55 and why you had to rebuild your n54?

I was told the valve train and possibly main bearing seal are N55

cylinder six ring / piston broke...

[Edris335i]

what type of oil would be recommended for a ST n54 in southern california?