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How to properly run 600+hp reliably?
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11-22-2018, 12:09 AM | #1 |
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How to properly run 600+hp reliably?
After some research, I wanted to hear some personal experience on what to look out for or recommended upgrades to continue to run 600hp reliably. I have been running this power level for roughly 3k miles and after snapping my rear axel shaft at the drag strip (ordered a diff brace). I began to wonder what are the common engine killers for our platform. Also would be great to hear from somebody running high HP for a long period (how many miles).
From looking around I know leaky injectors are leading cause to engine failure. And since I saw VTT introduce their new spline lock to avoid spun crank hubs, do you recommend that route since from my understanding N54s hubs are a bit stronger than newer gens? Again if you guys have any recommended mods to continue to run 600hp safely for engine longevity it would be appreciated. I am also open to any internal upgrades without having to get the engine fully built. Mods VTT stage 2+ (Trebila Tuned/ running e85) VTT stock location inlets and outlets (silicone) BMS DCI VRSF 7in HD Intercooler VRSF Cat-less Downpipes ER Chargepipe w/ GoFastBit BOV 3.5 MAP sensor Rob Beck PCV delete w/ catch can BMP Stage 3 lpfp w/ MMP Gen 2 PI (1050cc injectors) Mfactory SMFW w/ SPEC stage 3 clutch Btw- 80k miles on engine |
11-22-2018, 10:18 AM | #2 |
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I have VWetish lockdown. Also spare half axles if you need replacement. Come from 2008 MT 335i with 68k. To run 600hp safely? If you WOT frequently it won't last. Factory n54 won't last let alone highly tuned one. People will tell you oh... I make 700-800hp, yes but on a dyno and then car is mostly parked. N54 isn't an engine you can beat on every day and all day long. So stay off the gas pedal and keep up with the maintenance.
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11-22-2018, 11:19 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
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11-23-2018, 12:16 PM | #4 |
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A lot of longevity is in not maxing hardware, keeping your fueling solid, perform maintenance like you mean it, and go easy on the old girl (i.e. let her warm up/cool down). At or around the 600 whp mark these engines can still have pretty good longevity, just don't go crazy with being a dyno cowboy, have your tune look real good on the street and if/when things feel weird get out of it.
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11-28-2018, 08:48 AM | #7 |
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I had my conrod bearings replaced around 85k. My mechanic also inspected cam ledges and determined they were in spec.
Only reasons for blown motors on this platform I've seen are: 1. Spun bearings 2. Poor maintenance (oil, solenoids, carbon buildup, fuel pumps) 3. Bad toon 4. PI went south 5. User beat on car despite misfires 6. Unfortunate engine-building mistakes
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11-29-2018, 08:57 AM | #10 |
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Most vendors had their own port injection kits and v1 always seemed to have problems. Everyone seems to have figured their shit out, PI is pretty widely used without issue now. There's always risk though
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11-30-2018, 07:51 AM | #11 |
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For 600hp reliably I would recommend a ZL1 or Z06.
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2008 335xi 6MT | VRSF Catless DP | VRSF 7" FMIC | VRSF CP | TIAL BOV | DCI | MHD 2+ BC Racing BR | Stoptech 600 | Firehawk Indy 500 255 Square | Atric Altimax 225 Sq. 2018 F-150 Platinum 701A | FX4 | 3.5 EcoBeast |
12-02-2018, 07:49 PM | #12 |
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or s55
especially compared to an n54 with 80K+.. and like where are there any others?
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'13 335IS N54 (1 of 373 LeMans Blue out of 3597 total production e92)- Grey interior (1 of 24 in LMB with any trans- 1 of 14 with DCT)-MODS -MFactory LSD/MHD-BQ custom Tune/ATM-IC/AFE Momentum GT Intake/Konis/Mfront&HeimJoint Rear rods&arms/Brembos. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lo6aHZRo7XqtPkhL8 |
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