[Edris335i]

Really hoping someone can help me with this boost leak. I am FBO on MHD Stage 2+ acn 91. Have a 7" FMIC, VRSF CP, TiAL BOV(yellow spring), new boost solenoids, new vacuum lines, and tightened actuator rod. I've posted on the MHD one but haven't gotten a response and hoping I can fix my car so I can enjoy driving it again. Anything helps. I also have capped the plastic nipple on the IM and have a barb fitting that goes to my BOV.

https://datazap.me/u/edris335i/boost...=0&data=3-5-22

[Edris335i]

Originally Posted by thelightning

Have a smoke test performed by a local mechanic. There are a lot of variables. Noone can tell you what's wrong from 1000 miles away.

There is also an issue with your fuel injection or ignition. There are major trim differences between the 2 banks. What's the age of the injectors, coils and plugs?
Since you adjusted the rear actuator rod, Did you also put a washer on the front actuator mount? You want to keep them in sync else you have 1 lazy and 1 hard working turbo.

Plugs and coils are new, less than 2-3k miles. Injectors were supposedly replaced before I bought the car so around 15-20k miles on them? I don't have access to a lift or jack to be able to attempt to put the washer on the front mount. I'll see if I can get a smoke test done asap. Thank you!

[Edris335i]

Originally Posted by thelightning

Have a smoke test performed by a local mechanic. There are a lot of variables. Noone can tell you what's wrong from 1000 miles away.

There is also an issue with your fuel injection or ignition. There are major trim differences between the 2 banks. What's the age of the injectors, coils and plugs?
Since you adjusted the rear actuator rod, Did you also put a washer on the front actuator mount? You want to keep them in sync else you have 1 lazy and 1 hard working turbo.

Also I'm not seeing a difference in the WGDC bank-wise. They are almost identical the entire pull..?

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by Edris335i

Also I'm not seeing a difference in the WGDC bank-wise. They are almost identical the entire pull..?

It’s not wgdc...it’s the stft you want to look at for the fuel trims...they are showing a major disparity in the fuel needs of the 2 banks...

[Edris335i]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

It’s not wgdc...it’s the stft you want to look at for the fuel trims...they are showing a major disparity in the fuel needs of the 2 banks...

Sorry I'm relatively new when it comes to logs. Mind explaining what this means to me? Thanks in advance.

[Edris335i]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

It’s not wgdc...it’s the stft you want to look at for the fuel trims...they are showing a major disparity in the fuel needs of the 2 banks...

I have another log from a few days before and the STFT is a lot closer. Only thing I did to the car was delete the vacuum canister. Any ideas what happened?

Log before this one: https://datazap.me/u/edris335i/boost...a=3-5-21-22-23

[Edris335i]

Originally Posted by thelightning

Smoke test and compression test.

Gonna do the compression test this week as soon as I can get a hold of my friend's air compressor. Any cause for the STFT difference?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Edris335i

Really hoping someone can help me with this boost leak. I am FBO on MHD Stage 2+ acn 91. Have a 7" FMIC, VRSF CP, TiAL BOV(yellow spring), new boost solenoids, new vacuum lines, and tightened actuator rod. I've posted on the MHD one but haven't gotten a response and hoping I can fix my car so I can enjoy driving it again. Anything helps. I also have capped the plastic nipple on the IM and have a barb fitting that goes to my BOV.

https://datazap.me/u/edris335i/boost...=0&data=3-5-22

There are soo many items to check for on a boost leak. I'd start with all the connection points in the inlets, outlets, FMIC, air filter, PCV valve, sensor on the rear inlet. Basically, any connection point that has a rubber gasket. Heat over time will erode the durability of rubber gaskets..

[Edris335i]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

There are soo many items to check for on a boost leak. I'd start with all the connection points in the inlets, outlets, FMIC, air filter, PCV valve, sensor on the rear inlet. Basically, any connection point that has a rubber gasket. Heat over time will erode the durability of rubber gaskets..

I will recheck all of the things that you stated, hopefully I can find something loose there. If not, i'm getting the air compressor tonight to test the intake tract.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Edris335i

I will recheck all of the things that you stated, hopefully I can find something loose there. If not, i'm getting the air compressor tonight to test the intake tract.

If you are over 100,000 miles start replacing gaskets at the various connection points.

[Edris335i]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you are over 100,000 miles start replacing gaskets at the various connection points.

I'm at 99k miles right now. What gaskets should I replace? I'm going to check my chargepipe tonight and see if the o ring is still in place and might replace it.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Edris335i

I'm at 99k miles right now. What gaskets should I replace? I'm going to check my chargepipe tonight and see if the o ring is still in place and might replace it.

Charge pipe, intake manifold & throttle body (after you walnut blast is ideal), oem DV gaskets, FMIC gaskets.

check to ensure the oem inlet is fully seated on the turbo(s); it's rather flimsy to be honest. Any after mkt, silicone connection with a banjo, bolt based clamp is way better.

Check the gasket on the sensor located on the rear inlet.

Replace the vacuum hoses with platinum cured ones.

Check to make sure your vacuum Solenoids are functioning properly.

Change out the PCV valve & cap to an RB.

Fix the wastegate rattle on your turbos by turning the wastegate screw 2.5x on the rear turbo & using the horseshoe, washer method on the front turbo.

[Edris335i]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Charge pipe, intake manifold & throttle body (after you walnut blast is ideal), oem DV gaskets, FMIC gaskets.

check to ensure the oem inlet is fully seated on the turbo(s); it's rather flimsy to be honest. Any after mkt, silicone connection with a banjo, bolt based clamp is way better.

Check the gasket on the sensor located on the rear inlet.

Replace the vacuum hoses with platinum cured ones.

Check to make sure your vacuum Solenoids are functioning properly.

Change out the PCV valve & cap to an RB.

Fix the wastegate rattle on your turbos by turning the wastegate screw 2.5x on the rear turbo & using the horseshoe, washer method on the front turbo.

The walnut blasting was done before I got my car so I'm probably not going to get it done again until I get my new turbos next year. Picking up a new o-ring for my chargepipe tomorrow from BMS. I have a BOV which is tapped into my Intake Manifold with a barb fitting. I also have a 7" FMIC so everything on that should be good as well. All vacuum lines are replaced with the platinum cured silicone ones. Boost solenoids also are brand new Pierburg's. PCV is also changed to the RB. I will check the inlet and outlets later tonight or tomorrow. Thank you for the help, really appreciate it. Will update tomorrow or whenever I get everything looked at and done.

Also, my VRSF chargepipe has some play and feels like it could be loose. Not sure if it's supposed to be like that. If I need to, I can get a new c-clip from BMS tomorrow as well. It did not pop off when I tugged on it though. Let me know if I need to or if it should be fine.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Edris335i

The walnut blasting was done before I got my car so I'm probably not going to get it done again until I get my new turbos next year. Picking up a new o-ring for my chargepipe tomorrow from BMS. I have a BOV which is tapped into my Intake Manifold with a barb fitting. I also have a 7" FMIC so everything on that should be good as well. All vacuum lines are replaced with the platinum cured silicone ones. Boost solenoids also are brand new Pierburg's. PCV is also changed to the RB. I will check the inlet and outlets later tonight or tomorrow. Thank you for the help, really appreciate it. Will update tomorrow or whenever I get everything looked at and done.

Also, my VRSF chargepipe has some play and feels like it could be loose. Not sure if it's supposed to be like that. If I need to, I can get a new c-clip from BMS tomorrow as well. It did not pop off when I tugged on it though. Let me know if I need to or if it should be fine.

The charge pipe shouldn't really have any play in it. I have a Cobb & it fits perfectly and snug around the throttle body. I used my old C-clip with 100,000+ miles on it.... I did change out the gasket.

No oil leaks in the VG? That can be a source if it's big enough. I am assuming you don't.

Just double check all the vacuum line connections maybe...

Connection from lower to upper charge pipe ?