[chiko33]

Hello...

Fairly new to the forums..... Ive owned ‘07/‘08 335i E92 coupes before and recently purchased an ‘11 E93 335is .

Need some help...Ive researched/googled all the issues with regards to these Vanos Solenoids issues. But none seem to have the symptoms im having.

Brought vehicle to dealership to check for codes. Engine light was on, all the way to the dealership. When advisor checked in vehicle, engine light was off on restart.

They found the codes listed below and they suggested to start with the vanos.

Now, i know that most ppl that are having difficulty with vanos solenoids, are experiencing, starting issues or rough idles, hesitations on acceleration, etc...I wasn’t experiencing any of the signs that most ppl were having with the vanos, other than half engine light coming on...restart, half engine light comes after 200-300km and engine light stays on for a day or 2 and engine light goes off on its own and the next restart.

I bought aftermarket solenoids, lights came on after 2mins of driving. So, i took those out and Decided to clean out the old oem solenoids and reinstalled...half engine light came on after 10km of driving. So, i Decide to buy oem solenoids and installed...half engine light came on after 10-15km. Restarted car, half engine light gone...drove for another 5km, half engine light came on and engine light. Restarted, engine light stayed on.

Here are the engine codes the dealer found stored in the system:

2A82 - Vanos Intake
2C39 - Oxygen sensor before cat
2C3A - Oxygen sensor 2 before cat
2F6C - Exhaust-Gas Flap Activation
3100 - Boost-Pressure Control deactivation

As i stated before, the car drove great before half engine light came on and even with the “full” engine light on (picture of the outline of an engine) displayed at the top of the cluster... the car ran and started and idled without any hesitation or any cause of concern.

At this point, im a little confused on how to procced with this.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you

[AandSC]

How many miles on your car? Ever been walnut blasted? Coils and spark plugs ever replaced? Also, did you buy the cheap VANOS solenoids from amazon or eBay?

If you bought the cheap solenoids then I would start by replacing them with OEM. I had a similar VANOS issue, bought the cheap ones, had codes still, read the reviews on the cheap ones and realized they have about a 25% complaint rate. Bought OEM solenoids and haven’t had a problem since.

[chiko33]

Originally Posted by AandSC

How many miles on your car? Ever been walnut blasted? Coils and spark plugs ever replaced? Also, did you buy the cheap VANOS solenoids from amazon or eBay?

If you bought the cheap solenoids then I would start by replacing them with OEM. I had a similar VANOS issue, bought the cheap ones, had codes still, read the reviews on the cheap ones and realized they have about a 25% complaint rate. Bought OEM solenoids and haven’t had a problem since.

Car has 150km....so, Installed oems yesterday. Still coding. Plugs coils have been done.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by chiko33

...Here are the engine codes the dealer found stored in the system:

2A82 - Vanos Intake
2C39 - Oxygen sensor before cat
2C3A - Oxygen sensor 2 before cat
2F6C - Exhaust-Gas Flap Activation
3100 - Boost-Pressure Control deactivation

As i stated before, the car drove great before half engine light came on and even with the “full” engine light on (picture of the outline of an engine) displayed at the top of the cluster... the car ran and started and idled without any hesitation or any cause of concern...

To properly diagnose the issues (multiple), and be able to test YOURSELF and see the results without wasting a LOT of $$ at the dealer, you need a simple, cheap ($30-$35), easy to setup & use scan tool to be able to quickly read P-codes. See below for suggestions & details. I would suggest FIRST getting/ borrowing a simple generic scan tool and trying to diagnose the single fault code P0012/2A82 yourself, with the help of the Forum.

Bentley's definition of the code you are referring to as a "VANOS Solenoid" code:

"P0012 | 2A82 | 'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)"

Note that BMW FC (BMW Fault Code) 2A82 has the SAME definition as generic P-code P0012 which ANY generic P-code reader can read.

That code means the INTAKE Camshaft timing is Over-Retarded, at least at certain engine conditions (Temp, RPM, Load). Didn't the "Dealer" provide any "Freeze Frame Data" indicating engine conditions when that fault was set?
Even a cheap P-code reader gives THAT Freeze Frame Data.

That condition can be caused by a number of electronic faults such as faulty Intake Camshaft Position Sensor, dirty/ faulty Intake VANOS Solenoid, fault in the connector or wiring to either of those sensors, even low oil pressure or flow rate at idle due to improperly installed oil filter.

Ideally, one would want to monitor Live Data (Status/Parameters) of the Intake Camshaft Position Sensor signal (as received by the DME) during engine operation to see if it is properly changing timing with different Temp, Load, RPM conditions (as it is supposed to do based primarily on those three inputs). If you have a Windows 10 laptop, you can get a K+DCAN cable for $15 to $45 and download free INPA software to install on your laptop and connect to ANY module in your BMW (NOT just the DME).

HOWEVER, it takes a LOT of time to download, install, and learn how to properly use INPA or ISTA (also free download), so what makes sense just to get started is getting a generic P-code scan tool as described below, and spending some time getting MORE information than the Dealer gave you (Freeze Frame Data), and then posting that data here. If you don't get ANYTHING else out of this exercise, you at least need to learn what diagnostic information is saved in the DME and how to access & use it. It is MORE than just codes (at least if you understand how things work).

For instance, rather than REPLACE your VANOS Solenoids, you can rule out the solenoid itself by simply SWAPPING the solenoids between the Intake Cam side and Exhaust Cam side. If the fault follows the solenoid, then you have identified the cause. If the same fault remains, then the solenoids are BOTH OK (neither caused a fault when installed on exhaust side).

Likewise, ALL other Faults EXCEPT "3100" (is that the correct code?) are generic P-codes saved in the DME which ANY P-code reader can read/ CLEAR, as well as obtain Freeze Frame Data saved in the DME. Here is a list from Bentley:

P0133 | 2C39 | 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P0153 | 2C3A | 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P0475 | 2F6C | Exhaust Pressure Control Valve
P0476 | 2F6C | Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Low
P0477 | 2F6C | Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Low
P0478 | 2F6C |Exhaust Pressure Control Valve High

You will NOTE that there are 4 different P-codes associated with 2F6C BMW FC.

If you do NOT have Bentley Service Manual, you can download the searchable pdf version here:
http://www.georgebelton.com/335i.tech/bentley.php

You can also get reliable information from TIS online service manual:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

You can get cheap ($30 - $35), easy-to-use scan tools from Amazon. The first link is to a scan tool to use with your Windows 10 laptop, and the second link is to a "standalone" or handheld self-contained tool for which no other device or software is necessary. I have both for use on any 1996 or later vehicle, and I also use INPA for my 328xi:
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-4258..._89%3AScanTool

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLin...ords=scan+tool

If you want to try to diagnose problems yourself, with the help of a Forum, then post back with additional questions. If NOT, then good luck finding a shop that (a) knows how to diagnose a problem, and/or (b) properly explain their knowledge & findings to an owner such as yourself.

George