[echinite]

My 335i has been sitting for a few months before I had it moved to a shop to get the coolant, power steering, and also trans flushed. Had it towed to the shop because I was gonna do it myself and had already drained the fluids but just didn’t have the time to finish. After having it towed there I was told my battery wasn’t holding charge and it’s was $525 for a new battery, so I paid for a diagnosis ($250) because the battery was only a possible issue. After the diag I was told that I would need a new steering column and this was the reason it wasn’t starting. They proceeded with the flushed and replaced the steering column so I picked up today. When I got there I was under the impression I would be able to drive it home. Then I was told it’ll only start if it’s jumped and I’d have to have it towed. No one told me that I needed the battery still, so I had it towed home. When I got it home I tried to jump it and it I heard a click then the dash blacks out but nothing other than that. Tried again and I got a trans malfunction so I just left it alone after that. Should I reach back out to the shop to inform them of the misunderstandings or should I try replacing the battery? Any recommendations would help. Thanks!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by echinite

My 335i has been sitting for a few months before I had it moved to a shop to get the coolant, power steering, and also trans flushed. Had it towed to the shop because I was gonna do it myself and had already drained the fluids but just didn’t have the time to finish. After having it towed there I was told my battery wasn’t holding charge and it’s was $525 for a new battery, so I paid for a diagnosis ($250) because the battery was only a possible issue. After the diag I was told that I would need a new steering column and this was the reason it wasn’t starting. They proceeded with the flushed and replaced the steering column so I picked up today. When I got there I was under the impression I would be able to drive it home. Then I was told it’ll only start if it’s jumped and I’d have to have it towed. No one told me that I needed the battery still, so I had it towed home. When I got it home I tried to jump it and it I heard a click then the dash blacks out but nothing other than that. Tried again and I got a trans malfunction so I just left it alone after that. Should I reach back out to the shop to inform them of the misunderstandings or should I try replacing the battery? Any recommendations would help. Thanks!

If the car sat there a few months, that would explain a dead battery. I would charge it up and see what happens. If it doesn't hold the charge, then replace it.

A new steering column? That's rare for an e90. Hope you didn't get taken on that one $$...

[ctuna]

You can't leave these cars sit without a battery tender.
They always draw some power.
Chances are the only thing wrong is the battery is dead.
I would first put it on a trickle charger like a Ctek 4.2 or better
overnight. You need to put a slow full charge on the battery
jumping it is not the solution.
If you can change the battery yourself it would only cost you
100 to 200 bucks.
The lock failure on the steering column is sometimes due to a low
battery . If somebody attempted to start it to many times with
the battery low you could have gone over the software counter limit for
the steering column in which case it has to reset using software like
Ista D or the Inpa suite.
Either you are confused or the shop you took it to are idiots or trying
to hoodwink you.
This should be done before changing the steering column.(battery checked at
full charge and/or replaced)

Before doing anything else make sure you have a strong battery fully charged
as a low battery can cause all kinds of phantom failures.

You only want to read the following thread after you have know you have
a good fully charged battery

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=steering+lock

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by echinite

My 335i has been sitting for a few months before I had it moved to a shop to get the coolant, power steering, and also trans flushed. Had it towed to the shop because I was gonna do it myself and had already drained the fluids but just didn’t have the time to finish. After having it towed there I was told my battery wasn’t holding charge and it’s was $525 for a new battery, so I paid for a diagnosis ($250) because the battery was only a possible issue. After the diag I was told that I would need a new steering column and this was the reason it wasn’t starting. They proceeded with the flushed and replaced the steering column so I picked up today. When I got there I was under the impression I would be able to drive it home. Then I was told it’ll only start if it’s jumped and I’d have to have it towed. No one told me that I needed the battery still, so I had it towed home. When I got it home I tried to jump it and it I heard a click then the dash blacks out but nothing other than that. Tried again and I got a trans malfunction so I just left it alone after that. Should I reach back out to the shop to inform them of the misunderstandings or should I try replacing the battery? Any recommendations would help. Thanks!

If the car sat there a few months, that would explain a dead battery. I would charge it up and see what happens. If it doesn't hold the charge, then replace it.

A new steering column? That's rare for an e90. Hope you didn't get taken on that one $$...

[tcphoto]

Wow, there are so many things wrong with this that I don't know where to start. The $250 diagnostic fee and $525 battery is insane. I paid $187 for an Autozone battery and $50 for iCarly for BMW to register the battery. The rest are fairly simple DIY, why start if you cannot finish the project? In my nine years of BMW ownership, I've never heard of someone replacing a steering column. How much did that trip cost you?

[echinite]

Originally Posted by tcphoto

Wow, there are so many things wrong with this that I don't know where to start. The $250 diagnostic fee and $525 battery is insane. I paid $187 for an Autozone battery and $50 for iCarly for BMW to register the battery. The rest are fairly simple DIY, why start if you cannot finish the project? In my nine years of BMW ownership, I've never heard of someone replacing a steering column. How much did that trip cost you?

I guess I trusted the shop a little too much, I was recommended this shop by a close friend. With the $250 diagnostic fee and the $300 in labor for the steering column to be replaced it came out to $562.01

[nissubaru]

Originally Posted by echinite

I guess I trusted the shop a little too much, I was recommended this shop by a close friend. With the $250 diagnostic fee and the $300 in labor for the steering column to be replaced it came out to $562.01

What was the cost of the parts then? How could you pay for labor to replace a steering column if they didn't charge you for the steering column?

Honestly that place sounds like they are ripping you off and/or don't know what the hell they are doing. You need to get your battery situation figured out first though unfortunately. As other posters mentioned, a dead battery on these cars causes all sorts of malfunctions and weird messages. I would take most, if not all codes with a grain of salt if I knew the battery was dead.

[Jashan90]

Never have I ever hear a car doesn't start because of a steering column....

[echinite]

Originally Posted by nissubaru

What was the cost of the parts then? How could you pay for labor to replace a steering column if they didn't charge you for the steering column?

Honestly that place sounds like they are ripping you off and/or don't know what the hell they are doing. You need to get your battery situation figured out first though unfortunately. As other posters mentioned, a dead battery on these cars causes all sorts of malfunctions and weird messages. I would take most, if not all codes with a grain of salt if I knew the battery was dead.

I brought in a steering column because they quoted me at $1211 for a new one so I bought one from a friend that was parting out. Yea, that’s what it is beginnng to sound like, I called again to see what we can get figured out because I’ve already paid

[Nickco43]

In my nonprofessional option here is what I think you should do:

1. Never give that shop another penny of your money.

2. Try jumping the car with the key in the slot instead of Comfort Access if your car is equipped.

3. Check all fuses.

4. Get an old laptop and install INPA. It is the BMW factory diagnostic tool that will tell you everything that is wrong with the car. INPA likes 32 bit computers the best.

Download link: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=879366

You will also need a cable: https://www.amazon.com/JahyShow-Edia...70_&dpSrc=srch

5. Take your battery and have it tested at an autoparts store. If the battery is older than 4 years old skip this and have it replaced. Go to Costco, autoparts store, home depot, ect and buy a new battery. Make sure you bring your old battery and compare the size. Use INPA an program the battery to the car. Make sure you write the date on the battery when you install it!

6. Once the new battery is programmed clear all codes in INPA and try to start the car. If the car won't start then see if any codes pop up on INPA.

[Efthreeoh]

I hate to say this to you, but you got ripped off on the column. The early E90s did have a possible no-start condition related to the steering column lock. Under warranty, BMW started replacing columns, then later just updated the software to increase the dwell time the steering lock was energized. Most of the time, the driver could just jiggle the steering wheel while starting to get the lock to release. IIRC, BMW dropped the electric steering lock altogether in 2010. The shop probably figured you'd just Google the problem and see that indeed BMW did replace steering columns to solve the issue. Furthermore you stated you brought your own, used column for them to install? If so, any shop would refuse to install a customer supplied part to solve a problem; I'd go ask for the column you gave them, if they haven't eBay'd yet.

If the car sat a few months with a dead battery, the battery probably sulfated and shorted out and will not pass current, so you can't jump start a vehicle with a shorted battery. Get a new battery and it will fire right up I'd bet.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by echinite

My 335i has been sitting for a few months before I had it moved to a shop to get the coolant, power steering, and also trans flushed. Had it towed to the shop because I was gonna do it myself and had already drained the fluids but just didn’t have the time to finish. After having it towed there I was told my battery wasn’t holding charge and it’s was $525 for a new battery, so I paid for a diagnosis ($250) because the battery was only a possible issue. After the diag I was told that I would need a new steering column and this was the reason it wasn’t starting. They proceeded with the flushed and replaced the steering column so I picked up today. When I got there I was under the impression I would be able to drive it home. Then I was told it’ll only start if it’s jumped and I’d have to have it towed. No one told me that I needed the battery still, so I had it towed home. When I got it home I tried to jump it and it I heard a click then the dash blacks out but nothing other than that. Tried again and I got a trans malfunction so I just left it alone after that. Should I reach back out to the shop to inform them of the misunderstandings or should I try replacing the battery? Any recommendations would help. Thanks!

If the car sat there a few months, that would explain a dead battery. I would charge it up and see what happens. If it doesn't hold the charge, then replace it.

A new steering column? That's rare for an e90. Hope you didn't get taken on that one $$...

[echinite]

Update:

Took it to AutoZone to test the battery and it failed, it was showing a 1 so I’m gonna now replace the battery.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by echinite

Update:

Took it to AutoZone to test the battery and it failed, it was showing a 1 so I’m gonna now replace the battery.

Costco has the best batteries. Make sure you code it to the car.

[echinite]

So the battery that I had installed is a Duralast H8, I’ve seen in a post that if I replace with the same spec battery that I wouldn’t have to register it. The battery is $160 at AutoZone

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by echinite

So the battery that I had installed is a Duralast H8, I’ve seen in a post that if I replace with the same spec battery that I wouldn’t have to register it. The battery is $160 at AutoZone

I assume you had AutoZone install it. Hopefully they didn't screw up anything. Make sure they reattached the gray vent tubing to the short side of the battery on the (+) side of the case. The H8 size case should fit the battery box hold-down clamp. There also is a gray, hard styrofoam blocker that should be in place between the (-) side of the battery and the rear wall of the trunk.

What are the electrical specs of the new battery? The specs of aftermarket batteries are usually not exactly the same as the BMW battery that came from the factory. Was the battery they replaced a BMW battery? Good practice is to register the new battery so the previous adaptations the ECU made for the old battery as it ages are reset. If the specs are not exactly the same then reprogramming the ECU is necessary to have the charging characteristics match the new battery's (different) specs. Going from memory, most E90s came with a flooded-cell 900 CCA/80 Amp-hour battery.

You'll find plenty of threads on E90 post that suggest the whole battery registration/programming is bullshit. I've always replaced my battery (just once) with a BMW battery and registered it with a BMW scan tool and never had a problem.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by echinite

So the battery that I had installed is a Duralast H8, I’ve seen in a post that if I replace with the same spec battery that I wouldn’t have to register it. The battery is $160 at AutoZone

Nope, you still have to register it.

[echinite]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I assume you had AutoZone install it. Hopefully they didn't screw up anything. Make sure they reattached the gray vent tubing to the short side of the battery on the (+) side of the case. The H8 size case should fit the battery box hold-down clamp. There also is a gray, hard styrofoam blocker that should be in place between the (-) side of the battery and the rear wall of the trunk.

What are the electrical specs of the new battery? The specs of aftermarket batteries are usually not exactly the same as the BMW battery that came from the factory. Was the battery they replaced a BMW battery? Good practice is to register the new battery so the previous adaptations the ECU made for the old battery as it ages are reset. If the specs are not exactly the same then reprogramming the ECU is necessary to have the charging characteristics match the new battery's (different) specs. Going from memory, most E90s came with a flooded-cell 900 CCA/80 Amp-hour battery.

You'll find plenty of threads on E90 post that suggest the whole battery registration/programming is bullshit. I've always replaced my battery (just once) with a BMW battery and registered it with a BMW scan tool and never had a problem.

I removed the old one and also plan on reinstalling the new one on my own, the one that was in my car is a Duralast H8 (Not BMW), it’s also about 4.5 years old so I’m going to go ahead and install a new one today and see what happens.

[echinite]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Nope, you still have to register it.

Q: Why do I need to "code" for a new battery?
A: The answer to this varies. You may not have to! That is, so long as you replace your old battery with an exact replacement. However, if you switch from a wet-cell type battery to an AGM type battery, or vice versa, you must code for the change.

AGM and wet-cell batteries require a different rate of charge output from the alternator. Moving between these two types without coding can lead to over-charging or under-charging.
Also, batteries have a discharge rating called amp hours (ah). You must specify to the DME what the “ah” rating of your battery is so the car can run the proper charging algorithm

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Jashan90

Never have I ever hear a car doesn't start because of a steering column....

Relatively common on the early e90s. Do a search.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by echinite

Q: Why do I need to "code" for a new battery?
A: The answer to this varies. You may not have to! That is, so long as you replace your old battery with an exact replacement. However, if you switch from a wet-cell type battery to an AGM type battery, or vice versa, you must code for the change.

AGM and wet-cell batteries require a different rate of charge output from the alternator. Moving between these two types without coding can lead to over-charging or under-charging.
Also, batteries have a discharge rating called amp hours (ah). You must specify to the DME what the “ah” rating of your battery is so the car can run the proper charging algorithm

I don't agree.

You should register the new battery. The ECU compensates as the battery ages. Unless you put in the old battery, how do you know the prior owner registered it.

If you have INPA, Foxwell Scanner, or Carly the battery can be registered in 5 min.

I guess I don't see the hassle.

If you plan on LONG TERM ownership of an e90, you should at LEAST have Carly, at a bare minimum.

It's your car, do you want. If you don't want to do it the right way, it's your business..

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by echinite

Q: Why do I need to "code" for a new battery?
A: The answer to this varies. You may not have to! That is, so long as you replace your old battery with an exact replacement. However, if you switch from a wet-cell type battery to an AGM type battery, or vice versa, you must code for the change.

AGM and wet-cell batteries require a different rate of charge output from the alternator. Moving between these two types without coding can lead to over-charging or under-charging.
Also, batteries have a discharge rating called amp hours (ah). You must specify to the DME what the “ah” rating of your battery is so the car can run the proper charging algorithm

coding and registering are two different things.

If you change battery type or size the car must be coded. This changes options in the software to correspond with the hardware.
When you replace a battery it must be registered. This tells the car to change it's charging strategies based on a new battery. So one sets the parameters, and one resets the timer, essentially.

You won't get any issues if you don't register it, likely, but it will shorten the batteries life.