[supercal29]

My FRM just failed. Unfortunately, I miss the extended warranty so the repair is on me. It was at the dealer having the VANOS bolt repair completed, under warranty. Anyway, they must have rolled down the driver's window and I was wondering if there was a way to tap into the motor and get the thing rolled up until I get it fixed. I know I am upset that it's outside the FRM warranty and I am ticked that the window was down and they left it there. On the other hand, while it was there they also dealt with the recalls on the blower motor wiring and the PCV vale heater. Thanks in advance.
Steve

[biz77]

So your car went to the dealer with everything working and now the foot well module is dead and its on you to cover the replacement? Seems like the dealership might hold some responsibility. While FRM modules are notorious for failing they usually don't do so out of the blue.

[djh2]

Sounds like you should escalate the issue at the dealer or even BMW NA. I’m surprised something failed on their watch and you are on the hook to fix it.

https://www.bmwgm5.com/Footwell_Module_Connections.htm

This has the pinout of the FRM, possibly follow up more on jumping one of the connections to the motor. FWIW I have no experience with these motors, but there might be info elsewhere on the forums.

Do you have a coding setup?

[gT-BMW]

if your windows was working before you brought it in and failed during there care they are liable. they well test you. but you dont owe a dime. god has shined his light on you.

[djh2]

Yeah, I usually have to roll down my window to access the VANOS bolts too.

[supercal29]

It didn't fail totally out of the blue. Before it went to the dealer for the VANOS I had it at my regular mechanic to diagnose the rough running and whether the CPS faults were that or possibly the VANOS. My mechanic told me that the FRM was going but to see if it was covered by the extended warranty when it was at the dealer.

[supercal29]

Originally Posted by djh2

Sounds like you should escalate the issue at the dealer or even BMW NA. I’m surprised something failed on their watch and you are on the hook to fix it.

https://www.bmwgm5.com/Footwell_Module_Connections.htm

This has the pinout of the FRM, possibly follow up more on jumping one of the connections to the motor. FWIW I have no experience with these motors, but there might be info elsewhere on the forums.

Do you have a coding setup?

I don't have a coding setup. My plan is to replace the module myself and have my normal BMW mechanic, Ress Motor Works, do the coding for me.

[Efthreeoh]

I'd bet the test routine for the FRM will roll the window up. My Wife's Z3 has a FRM issue with the passenger window and I can roll the window up and down with my Foxwell scan tool in test mode. See if your mechanic can just plug in his scan tool and roll the window up.

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by djh2

Yeah, I usually have to roll down my window to access the VANOS bolts too.

Pretty standard procedure for vehicles when they’re being driven into shop/lift bay. Allows driver to hear what’s going on around him, among other things.

Just a safety thing as far as I understand.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by supercal29

My FRM just failed...I was wondering if there was a way to tap into the motor and get the thing rolled up until I get it fixed.

Can't help but wonder WHY you believe the FRM failed. Do the other three windows on your E91 work using their individual door switches? Do any of the window buttons on the Driver Door Switch Cluster work? Do the controls for the exterior mirrors work?

When your Indy suggested your FRM was failing some time ago, what tests or diagnostics did he base that on?

What issues have you had with the driver window or any other window recently?

INPA or ISTA will allow Activation (Steuern) of the windows for test purposes, both front windows up/down, both rear windows up/down, or all windows up/down. That Activation is actually available when connected to the JBE (as opposed to the FRM), and is a test of, or initialization of, the window motors as powered via the JBE.

Depending upon what works and what doesn't (the specific symptoms related to window switches and motor operation) you may have a problem with the door window motor, Driver Switch Cluster, CAS, FRM, or any associated connector or wiring.

Unfortunately, few today are into diagnostics -- they just replace components until it works. Hope you can find someone who understands how to read a circuit diagram, how the system works, and the capabilities of BMW diagnostic software.

Here is the circuit diagram for "Window Outputs" for your 2010 328xi E91:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lputs/HuwmQ8es

As you can see from the diagram, the rear windows are controlled by separate relays soldered into the JBE, while the front windows are controlled directly by the FRM.

The Driver Door Window Motor (M21) is operated Up/Down by reversing polarity to the motor pins #5 & #6 (Blue/Gray and Black/Green wires). So even if you don't have INPA, you can operate the window by disconnecting Connector X749 at the motor and applying 12V+ and ground to those pins, reversing polarity to change motor direction.

You can also test FRM/switch function by CAREFULLY attaching multimeter/voltmeter probes to sockets #5 & #6 of connector X749 and measuring voltage when you press the window switch with remote in slot (radio mode). You should get +12V when switch pressed one way, and -12V (reversed polarity) when switch pressed the other way.

I suppose that rather than removing the door panel, one could apply 12V+ & ground to pins #5 & #4 of Connector X14261 at the FRM, DISCONNECTED FROM THE FRM, but be very careful that you have correctly identified pins/sockets as any application of voltage/ground incorrectly WILL ruin a module (that's why safest is to remove door panel, disconnect motor connector and apply voltage directly to motor pins -- isolating any modules).

Those tests don't definitively diagnose the nature of the problem, they merely indicate if the fault is in the motor or the motor activation, and at least hot-wiring the motor should allow you to get the window UP. I can't believe the Dealer did NOT at least do that much. I haven't had the pleasure of removing my door panel yet, so perhaps someone who has (or a YouTube video) can list the steps (or do a search for door trim/panel removal in TIS.

George

[smass]

There are a few DIYs and videos for window E90 window regulator replacement but they involve removing the door panel. If you follow those instructions you can disconnect the regulator and slide the window up. The glass just snaps into the regulator and is held in with a tab you push out of the way. I used a 2" C clamp in the track to keep the window up while waiting for a new regulator to arrive. Packing tape on the glass is also an option to hold up the windows.

[vb7200]

Originally Posted by supercal29

My FRM just failed. Unfortunately, I miss the extended warranty so the repair is on me. It was at the dealer having the VANOS bolt repair completed, under warranty. Anyway, they must have rolled down the driver's window and I was wondering if there was a way to tap into the motor and get the thing rolled up until I get it fixed. I know I am upset that it's outside the FRM warranty and I am ticked that the window was down and they left it there. On the other hand, while it was there they also dealt with the recalls on the blower motor wiring and the PCV vale heater. Thanks in advance.
Steve

So when you got the car back, it was dead?

When mine died and I took it to the dealer, the service guy straight up told me, "sometimes when we plug into these older cars, it zaps the FRM for some reason. That's not your case, but it happens." So I asked what happens if that were my case. His response? "You'd still be out $800 to replace it." Unbelievable.

When mine went, I could not roll up my front windows. I could, however use the rear switches to roll up/down the rear windows. The panel on the driver side would do nothing.

Only way I could think of rolling it up is hooking the motor to a battery directly. Your best bet is to find a used one on eBay from a donor car that is as close to yours as you can find. Run the VIN and compare your options. I did that and I replaced it plug and play, all my lights/windows work, I didn't even have to code it. Cost me $80. There's three different variants if I'm correct, just make sure if you get the right one. I have the bi-xenons, so I needed an AHL.

[Andras6800]

Hello,

I have an E93, and I have an interesting experience. When I am going to close the roof, and keep pulling the convertible button, normally the windows also shall close. Sometimes almost always, when the roof closing finished, the windows going to close, but the window after reaching the top position move down a bit. There is about ~10 cm gap. Sometimes only the passenger window does this think, other times, the driver window does. Sometimes both of them. The rear windows closing as the should always. I already visited the dealer, and they performed a initialization of end position, but the "feature" exist. If I use the window lifter buttons everything working fine, so I guess, the problem is not with the window mechanism or electronic. This is really annoying me, it would be great, if someone could help me, what is the reason behind. If needed, I can capture a video.

Thank you for your help in advance!

[supercal29]

It was a busy weekend so let me try and get caught up.

I took my car to my indie mechanic the end of July to have them check out the rough running engine. I personally suspected the VANOS but the engine had some CPS faults and I wanted their opinion. They agreed that it was likely the VANOS and at that time mentioned that my FRM was going, they didn't mention a fault, but said that there was an extended warranty from BMW. Saturday I replaced the FRM myself and while I couldn't program it, I was able to then roll up my window. Good thing too because it started raining Sunday. The car is at my indie now getting the module programmed. Thanks to all for your suggestions and help. Steve