[fazman]

Hi All,

So I'm at about 160k miles on my FBO n54 e90 (i still have the stock inlets).

I'm going to be doing a project where I change out the pulley/tensioner kit (original one was changed at 105k miles). Since I have this apart I might as well do the OFHG (original was changed out at 90k miles). Since i'm still running the original starter I might as well change that out too with a new set of manifold gaskets. I'll also be tossing in a fresh set of spark plugs. My VCG was done at 105k miles, spark plugs, and so was my WP+Tstat+Expansion tank.

From time to time I have noticed I get a lot of 30FF codes and no boost (or slow to come on boost). I also have had a TON of wastegate rattle since about 105k miles. Which got me thinking... maybe my vacuum lines need a refresh??

I found a link to this site on a DIY saying I should probably pick up some vacuum hoses from them: https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...ld-by-the-Foot

Questions I have:
1) How many feet of hose should I order? I'm guessing 10 ft?
2) I am planning to get black color hose because I like the stealth look... but what Interior Diameter (ID) should I get? I heard the stock stuff is 3.5" ID, but I have also heard that the 4" ID makes it a little bit easier to install onto the turbos which seem difficult to get to???
3) Anything else I should consider or other project refresh items to do while I am already deep into the current labor?

FBO parts:
A) ER CP w/tial BOV VTA
B) ER full competition FMIC anodized hard
C) AR DP set at 5 OClock (Primary O2's were changed at 105k miles)
D) Latest JB4 ISO Map 5 + DCI + BMS OCC

Thanks in advance for the advice.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by fazman

Hi All,

So I'm at about 160k miles on my FBO n54 e90 (i still have the stock inlets).

I'm going to be doing a project where I change out the pulley/tensioner kit (original one was changed at 105k miles). Since I have this apart I might as well do the OFHG (original was changed out at 90k miles). Since i'm still running the original starter I might as well change that out too with a new set of manifold gaskets. I'll also be tossing in a fresh set of spark plugs. My VCG was done at 105k miles, spark plugs, and so was my WP+Tstat+Expansion tank.

From time to time I have noticed I get a lot of 30FF codes and no boost (or slow to come on boost). I also have had a TON of wastegate rattle since about 105k miles. Which got me thinking... maybe my vacuum lines need a refresh??

I found a link to this site on a DIY saying I should probably pick up some vacuum hoses from them: https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...ld-by-the-Foot

Questions I have:
1) How many feet of hose should I order? I'm guessing 10 ft?
2) I am planning to get black color hose because I like the stealth look... but what Interior Diameter (ID) should I get? I heard the stock stuff is 3.5" ID, but I have also heard that the 4" ID makes it a little bit easier to install onto the turbos which seem difficult to get to???
3) Anything else I should consider or other project refresh items to do while I am already deep into the current labor?

FBO parts:
A) ER CP w/tial BOV VTA
B) ER full competition FMIC anodized hard
C) AR DP set at 5 OClock (Primary O2's were changed at 105k miles)
D) Latest JB4 ISO Map 5 + DCI + BMS OCC

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Make sure you get a throttle body gasket in addition to your intake manifold gaskets. I'd also update your charge pipe to the throttle body gasket & FMIC gaskets too. Make sure the stock inlets are secure to the turbos. They tend to be loose and there's nothing clamping them down like you would with after mkt inlets.

I used 3.5mm. The only one that is is difficult to get on is vacuum hose to the front turbo actuator. There is a really neat DIY, in the DIY section, that makes this significantly easier.

New starter? Mine is original at 153,000 miles and shows no signs of slowing down. I guess if you want, but I'd save my money, if you don't see any issues.

You want 20' of vacuum line

Personally, I'd do MMP 1.75" inlets & do your engine mounts while your in there, if your at 160,000 miles.

If you do that, make sure you get new turbo seals.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Make sure you get a throttle body gasket in addition to your intake manifold gaskets. I'd also update your charge pipe to the throttle body gasket & FMIC gaskets too. Make sure the stock inlets are secure to the turbos. They tend to be loose and there's nothing clamping them down like you would with after mkt inlets.

I used 3.5mm. The only one that is is difficult to get on is vacuum hose to the front turbo actuator. There is a really neat DIY, in the DIY section, that makes this significantly easier.

New starter? Mine is original at 153,000 miles and shows no signs of slowing down. I guess if you want, but I'd save my money, if you don't see any issues.

You want 20' of vacuum line

Personally, I'd do MMP 1.75" inlets & do your engine mounts while your in there, if your at 160,000 miles.

If you do that, make sure you get new turbo seals.

Good catch on those... I'll need to make a new parts order:
1) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...al-13547522361
2) What do you mean by a FMIC gasket???
3) Need to check inlets on turbos (secured)
4) Why MMP (I have no research on inlets yet) also I would assume a hard pipe is better than a rubber/silicone hose because it won't collapse?
5) 20 feet of vacuum lines? i have heard about 10 feet... are you sure?
6) I'm not sure if my engine/trans mounts have been changed? They might have been. But my car is an XI model so i don't have the issue of the pulley/tensioner rubbing.
7) Need FCPEuro link to turbo seals?

[mweisdorfer]

[QUOTE=fazman;23512455]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Make sure you get a throttle body gasket in addition to your intake manifold gaskets. I'd also update your charge pipe to the throttle body gasket & FMIC gaskets too. Make sure the stock inlets are secure to the turbos. They tend to be loose and there's nothing clamping them down like you would with after mkt inlets.

I used 3.5mm. The only one that is is difficult to get on is vacuum hose to the front turbo actuator. There is a really neat DIY, in the DIY section, that makes this significantly easier.

New starter? Mine is original at 153,000 miles and shows no signs of slowing down. I guess if you want, but I'd save my money, if you don't see any issues.

You want 20' of vacuum line

Personally, I'd do MMP 1.75" inlets & do your engine mounts while your in there, if your at 160,000 miles.

If you do that, make sure you get new turbo seals.

FMIC to lower charge pipe & outlet gaskets (2)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=✓&keywords=11617791469

Turbo seals (2)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...asket-01158200

Charge pipe to Throttle Body (I just thought of this one)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=✓&keywords=13717568031

Downpipe to exhaust seal

http://www.burgertuning.com/n54_n55_...e_gaskets.html

I said 20 feet for the vacuum line, in case an error was made; 15 feet should do it, but little room for error. 10 feet = no room for error.

MMP is a good company out of Houston, TX. They make the most cost effective inlets made out of silicone for your money. I have them and couldn't be happier. You can get them directly from MMP or really any online vendor that sells after mkt parts for BMW's etc.

https://mmp-e.com/products/mmp-bmw-n...ilicone-inlets

I put in downpipe to exhaust gaskets because you will need to take the cats out in order to put in the rear inlet.

Almost everyone on this forum, who has after mkt inlets, gets them made out of silicone.

If you live in the Midwest, Northeast or any state that uses salt on the roads in the winter, have fun getting the cats off the exhaust pipes

You will probably end up using a sawzall with a carbon tipped blade to cut the bolts off.

In such case, I'd highly recommend using grade 8 bolts, nuts & washers slathered up in Nickel based anti-seize, when you put them back together.

[fazman]

[QUOTE=mweisdorfer;23513128]

Originally Posted by fazman

FMIC to lower charge pipe & outlet gaskets (2)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=✓&keywords=11617791469

Turbo seals (2)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...asket-01158200

Charge pipe to Throttle Body (I just thought of this one)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=✓&keywords=13717568031

Downpipe to exhaust seal

http://www.burgertuning.com/n54_n55_...e_gaskets.html

I said 20 feet for the vacuum line, in case an error was made; 15 feet should do it, but little room for error. 10 feet = no room for error.

MMP is a good company out of Houston, TX. They make the most cost effective inlets made out of silicone for your money. I have them and couldn't be happier. You can get them directly from MMP or really any online vendor that sells after mkt parts for BMW's etc.

https://mmp-e.com/products/mmp-bmw-n...ilicone-inlets

I put in downpipe to exhaust gaskets because you will need to take the cats out in order to put in the rear inlet.

Almost everyone on this forum, who has after mkt inlets, gets them made out of silicone.

If you live in the Midwest, Northeast or any state that uses salt on the roads in the winter, have fun getting the cats off the exhaust pipes

You will probably end up using a sawzall with a carbon tipped blade to cut the bolts off.

In such case, I'd highly recommend using grade 8 bolts, nuts & washers slathered up in Nickel based anti-seize, when you put them back together.

Mine is a NorthEastern car for most of it's life except the past couple years. I've had the DP's Off/On a couple times between aftermarket and stock. Most recently I the aftermarket DP's put on in 2015.

[mweisdorfer]

[QUOTE=fazman;23525712]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Mine is a NorthEastern car for most of it's life except the past couple years. I've had the DP's Off/On a couple times between aftermarket and stock. Most recently I the aftermarket DP's put on in 2015.

Good deal on accessibility on the downpipes. I'd just get new gaskets then.