[alex sol]

I had removed my squealing a/c belt by cutting it off before getting the Lisle tool and when installing had serious difficulty. Parts geek suggests a 4k824and I got a 830mm size belt from ebs or pelican.. can't remember. and could not install. i even tried loosening the a/c compressor - 3 x 13mm bolts that are hard to find/see. Gave up and took to two shops. One regular mechanic and one bimmer specialist. Neither could install so I called another who gladly would install for $150. I figured I'd assemble the two tools to do the job and learn more about my 35d. One had given me a 844 belt which I used because it looked like the 830 belt had a looong way to stretch.

The Lisle tool requires you turn the motor counter clock wise even though I had some advice not to do this.. I tried to turn the motor with a e12 torx and when it got tight I ended up loosening the one of four bolts that hold the crank pulley / harmonic balancer.

I ordered the BGS Crank tool with the 4 holes that 'grip' the 4 torx bolts but does not really hold tight. From on top, I could not even get close. From below I could barely and so... removed the fan.

One bolt on passenger side at top of rad and one t25 torx on the bottom (attached to some kind of cooler) of rad and it was loose but required me removing the intercooler / intake pipe. I had previously cut the two bands with a dremel so I had two clamps and the clip that holds onto the throttle body.

Unplugged the fan connector and out came the fan with some wiggling.

With all the clearance, I still could only turn the motor with the help of a friend from on top while holding the tool which would still slip like crazy.
You put in the BGS tool, then a 17mm socket on 1/2" drive and smallest 1/2" drive extension that I own. Attached to my torque wrench so i got get the torque and ratcheting action.. (I know we should not use torque wrenches in the counter clockwise but I wanted to get this done).

Spun the crank around, finally, and the belt got onto the pulleys but in the wrong groove!! The Lisle is not specific to this car so the 'wedge' does not really do its job. Spun the crank a few more times while pushing the belt into next groove got it onto the correct grooves. Started the car, ran, tested and all good...

This job should not be difficult. Thanks to the engineers at BMW for not using a tensioner!!

[335stoner]

I thought the motor spins to the right not the left???

my belt install tool was a short stubby screw driver.

I put it in the outer most grove of the HB and pushed down (into the grove) and spun the pulley. belt went on one grove too far, so i used my hand and pulled it back on and spun it another time.. it wasn't too bad

at least you know how to do it faster next time!

[2ndhanddiesel]

My wife and I just went through all of the routing maintenance on both of our cars. One of the biggest pains was getting the AC belt back on. The AARodriguez toolkit didn't come with the crank rotating socket that used to be shown on his site. We looked high and low and wound up purchasing the Lisle tool which does work, but doesn't fit a fluidampr balancer very well. I had one belt come apart and turn into shredded wheat on me a day later.

We purchased a crank rotating socket that another company swore was the right socket based on my VIN, but when it arrived, it was obviously for the gas engine.

After much research my wife found the following socket at AST Tools in the UK.
https://www.asttools.co.uk/crankshaf...mw-ast5013/bmw
The part arrived pretty fast and works like a charm. I was able to use the tool from the AARodriguez kit and let me just say, that was far easier to install and keep things lined up.

Also, for anyone interested, this site pretty much lists each tool you will need for each job along with decent write ups.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xdrive35d-sav/
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-335d-lim/

if you look at this specific page for replacing the AC belt, you will see where it lists the part# of the crank rotating socket "11 6 480" just like the one from AST Tools
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/4O2pbDR

I hope this helps and if you find anyone else that needs to have this socket to rotate the crank, this one fits the diesel perfect.

[AlpineX]

Nice first post 2ndhand.

Belt installation tool Here Best price I found. Reduces aggravation, time, and prevents damaged belts by lifting the ribs over the pulley edge.
4 hole crank tool and the installation tool makes AC belt a snap.

[335dlci]

All that could have been prevented with the ast tool.

Edit : or thr tool above.

[Owen81]

If I remember correctly, tightening the HB bolts turns the engine in the proper direction, which is clockwise when facing the front of the engine with the hood open?

[2ndhanddiesel]

Originally Posted by AlpineX

Nice first post 2ndhand.

Belt installation tool Here Best price I found. Reduces aggravation, time, and prevents damaged belts by lifting the ribs over the pulley edge.
4 hole crank tool and the installation tool makes AC belt a snap.

Thanks!
I have both the Lisle tool you posted and the magnetic one from AARodriguez (plus the AST crank socket), and i can say with certainty, the magnetic tool with the crank rotating socket is the easiest. less pressure required to slip the belt on so it makes it easier to monitor your belt and ensure the grooves are lined up on the AC pulley. Plus the Lisle tool doesn't work very well with a Fluidampr HB (have to wrap a shop rag around it then slip it in the HB).

[robnitro]

Originally Posted by AlpineX

Nice first post 2ndhand.

Belt installation tool Here Best price I found. Reduces aggravation, time, and prevents damaged belts by lifting the ribs over the pulley edge.
4 hole crank tool and the installation tool makes AC belt a snap.

I'm confused, how do you mount the 4 hole crank tool with this tool in place? It looks like instead it does the belt over without needing to rotate the crank?

It's ridiculous that we need 2 expensive tools just to put an ac belt on, but seeing how bmw does things half assed, I guess it's expected.

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by robnitro

I'm confused, how do you mount the 4 hole crank tool with this tool in place? It looks like instead it does the belt over without needing to rotate the crank?

It's ridiculous that we need 2 expensive tools just to put an ac belt on, but seeing how bmw does things half assed, I guess it's expected.

You sure wonder if if was a bean counter dept decision or engineering.

The belt installation tool is held in place initially by the pilot cylinder at the rotating center that fits inside the stock harmonic balancer (pic). As you turn it clockwise, the belt starts to lift over and apply pressure which turns the crank. The pilot cylinder does not fit the FD but you can balance your way through the transition to belt pressure, a sleeve would be preferable.

The 4 hole crank tool is for removal of the belt (pulling forward with a rag), and Im sure a bunch of other service/repair needs.

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by robnitro

I'm confused, how do you mount the 4 hole crank tool with this tool in place? It looks like instead it does the belt over without needing to rotate the crank?

It's ridiculous that we need 2 expensive tools just to put an ac belt on, but seeing how bmw does things half assed, I guess it's expected.

Only the belt stretch tool is required to install/remove. You can always take it to the dealer/Indy so you don't have to buy the tool. The belt tool is like $12... I think labor would be more. You can always borrow one from autozone.

The crank tool is not required but trust me it makes life easier. You can use two wrenches or the starter to turn the crank.

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

Only the belt stretch tool is required to install/remove. You can always take it to the dealer/Indy so you don't have to buy the tool. The belt tool is like $12... I think labor would be more. You can always borrow one from autozone.

The crank tool is not required but trust me it makes life easier. You can use two wrenches or the starter to turn the crank.

Do not use the starter to turn the crank.

At over $100 to have the belt installed at the dealer, this is an easy pencil out. Get one that works and is easy.

[335dsleeper]

Yikes. Sorry you had such difficulty.

[alex sol]

yes quite the journey but it's done. called two mechanics - neither had the crank tool, brought to two mechanics who couldn't do it and one suggested i had the wrong sized belt which was wrong, three initial try before going to the mechanics.. then order the lisle tool and tried, then order the bgs tool and still struggled until i removed the rad.

@335stoner if you got on with spit, grit and a stubby screwdriver... you da man!!

[Hockey13]

u can use a Allen/he key to turn from power steering. not sure why people are so stuck on special tools when that's a perfectly easy spot.

[335stoner]

Originally Posted by alex sol

@335stoner if you got on with spit, grit and a stubby screwdriver... you da man!!

just remember.. you are stronger than the belt!

I have been wrenching on cars for the past 18 years and foolish me almost tried to make a career out of it

special tools are a gimmick haha

[robnitro]

Originally Posted by Hockey13

u can use a Allen/he key to turn from power steering. not sure why people are so stuck on special tools when that's a perfectly easy spot.

You used this to turn it clockwise or counter/reverse? Clockwise would be putting more tendon on the tensioner I'd think?

I have the lisle tool so if a slow reverse turn isn't harmful, I may do that.

[Hockey13]

Originally Posted by robnitro

You used this to turn it clockwise or counter/reverse? Clockwise would be putting more tendon on the tensioner I'd think?

I have the lisle tool so if a slow reverse turn isn't harmful, I may do that.

Leslie tool makes u go opposite way. just go slow and I'll be fine. I've done it twice. and I have almost 160k

[335stoner]

Originally Posted by Hockey13

u can use a Allen/he key to turn from power steering. not sure why people are so stuck on special tools when that's a perfectly easy spot.

didn't know the PS pulley had enough grip to overcome compression with out slipping! in my experiences on other cars the crank is the best option to use since it has the most resistance..

[335D Alpha Pappa]

Originally Posted by 335stoner

didn't know the PS pulley had enough grip to overcome compression with out slipping! in my experiences on other cars the crank is the best option to use since it has the most resistance..

Get a 9mm Allen 1/2 drive. Cheaper than the bgs tool. Be careful not to push the intake pipe too far when using the 1/2 drive. Pushing it too far will cause it to unseat and then you will get a dtc for the throttle valve. Just reseat the pipe and clear the error code.

[Hockey13]

like I said, I've changed mine twice now. just go slow and I've had no issues. I'm at 159k now