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Locked Out of Car, Many Variables to Consider
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01-05-2018, 02:47 PM | #1 |
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Locked Out of Car, Many Variables to Consider
It's a 2006 325xi sedan, no comfort access and it would appear my fuse #57 is blown. It was probably zero degrees F when I hit the unlock on the fob so perhaps a frozen cylinder drew too many amps. But it also has an iDatalink ADS-BM1 installed, which has so far given me no problems but may be complicating the issue after this fuse blew out.
I also cannot open the driver door with the metal key. I just bought the car, so I can't be sure the door cylinder is original, but the metal key is because it works on the trunk. When I put the key in the driver's door cylinder it turns easily, but the plunger doesn't even try to move. Does an incorrect key still turn the cylinder, or can I assume if it turns that it's the correct one? The freezing temperatures may be stopping a pop up, or a "tumbler" from engaging the key trace. Something is wrong because I popped the back seat loose enough to get my upper torso inside and then used a loop of heavy copper to snag the driver's door handle. I can pull the handle and the plunger comes up, but it won't stay up. I've jiggled the crap out of it to no avail. I even had a guy stand outside and try to open it from the outside while I had the plunger up. WHAT CAN I DO????? Right now I have the battery ground disconnected to try to reset the computers, because nothing is acting right. If I hold the unlock down, the windows do not try to drop. Pressing the unlock on the fob makes a sound as if the doors would try to unlock, but none of the plungers move whatsoever. I can't get the bottom of the back seat to unhook. One hook, the right side one, is loose from its eye. But the middle and left ones are STUCK. I cut a 2x4 to the right length and pried up with a lot of force on the left side upper ring, but that bottom is stuck. Probably I can shimmy over the seat on the looser side. Once I'm inside, is getting the seat loose going to be easier? I'm sort of committed once I go over the seat an into the cabin. I'll have my fuse in hand and some tools, maybe a pry bar to attack that back seat, maybe some beef jerky and bottled water in case I end up there longer than I hoped. lol Any advice is appreciated. Last edited by Elkrat; 01-05-2018 at 02:53 PM.. |
01-05-2018, 03:28 PM | #4 |
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What is going on with your back seat? Have you unlatched the latches on the bottom side of the rear deck? The bottom cushion has a left and right but not a middle. Once in the car you can easily pull up to get it loose. It helps to push the rear seat backwards before you do this. Your 2x4 is probably pushing it out of line or forward which causes it to stick. Bring a T50 torx to loosen the 2 bolts need to remove the bottom of the backrest.
Last edited by smass; 01-05-2018 at 03:40 PM.. |
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01-05-2018, 03:44 PM | #5 |
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That T50 pair is my issue. They are pinning the seat back at the bottom. So how do you climb into the car from the trunk? The bottom isn't really moving. I'm buying a T50 torx from the store and going over the top. Then I should be able to easily pop up the bottom, unbolt the bottom of the back and have easy ingress/egress. I'm just praying the fuse fixes everything.
I think I'll leave those T50s off for the time being. Nobody ever rides in the back. It's just my back and forth to work car. That way if the new larger 20A fuse blows I won't have to go through all this hell again. DID I MENTION IT'S FREEZING?!?!?! |
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01-05-2018, 04:01 PM | #7 |
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I would try some de-icer in the lock to see if you can lubricate it. As for the coldness, get some of those hand warmers to place in pocket while you are working on it.
If all else fails, break the rear door window. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E90-SID...VYJidu&vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Vent-W...RaDdrZ&vxp=mtr just be careful of broken glass. |
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01-05-2018, 04:54 PM | #8 |
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I was able to shimmy over the back seat, pull the bottom cushion, slide it over the driver's seat and pull the bottom Torx of the seat back.
You cannot open any of the doors from the inside. They do not automatically unlock the plunger - only the driver's door does that, and it seems to be jacked. It just acts like a prairie dog - up and down with the handle. If I catch it with my fingers and hold it up it won't open and the plunger drops again when I release it. It's an insane system, that a loss of power literally traps three doors from opening. I got a space heater in there for a few hours. It's probably 40+F in the cabin for a few hours, but that didn't help the driver's unlock mechanism. I'm shy to spray any crap in there. Tomorrow (Saturday) I'm coming back to put the fuse in and reconnect the computers. Darkness fell and I have two vehicles here so I can't drive it home anyway. Thanks for all your help guys. I will report back for others. |
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01-06-2018, 10:06 AM | #9 |
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What is the voltage on the battery, and how old is the battery?
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2008 E91 36K, 6-speed, RWD, Alpine, Terra, Xenons, ZSP, ZCW, ZPP, PDC, CA, alarm, M shifter and M brake handle, Euro rear fog light switch, Euro aspheric mirrors, rear power outlets, Euro split armrest, Lidatek, remote V-1, Cocomats, beach sand, $10 clutch stop mod. 1998 Volvo V70T5 226K, 5-speed, original clutch (third clutch pedal!), aspheric driver's mirror, E-code headlights, IPD sway bar, strut tower brace & skidplate.
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01-06-2018, 10:44 AM | #10 |
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Drives: 2011 335i
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Doesn't an xi hav fold down rear seats?
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01-06-2018, 02:06 PM | #11 |
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The seats are not fold down. All that folds down is a "console" of sorts in the center, but there is not pass through access to the trunk. I played circus contortionist but made it inside.
The battery is brand new AGM. It's about 5 days old. I had to code the AGM profile into the car, which I did properly. The fuses were not blown, not 56 or 57. Somebody already changed 57 out for a 20A anyway, so I was glad to see that wasn't blown. But having left the negative battery cable off for 12 hrs or so, I just reattached that and everything works perfectly. The first thing I did was start the car with the fob inserted into the dash, while the trunk was still open. I'm at a loss to explain it. I would have to blame the remote start. I've heard nothing but good things about it, the ADS-BM1 but it's the only thing I can think of. |
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01-06-2018, 02:08 PM | #12 |
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Just to be complete, the only coding changes I've made to this car are the seat belt ding, the AGM 90ah battery profile and 2 (so far) transmission adaptation clears due to a harsh 2-1 downshift.
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01-06-2018, 07:44 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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01-07-2018, 11:46 AM | #14 |
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If you can get something through the rear seats to open the door handle, you should be able to kit the unlock on the dash. Possibly unlocking a different door.
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01-09-2018, 12:01 PM | #15 |
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Well I just checked and the metal key doesn't unlock my door at all. Either the door cylinder has been changed or it is malfunctioning. The key will unlock the trunk so I know it belongs to this chassis.
How does the door lock mechanism work? If you stick your key into some random BMW in a parking lot, does it just turn and do nothing? That's how mine acts. As far as why the interior handle wouldn't unlock it, I have no idea. It unlocks it now. I kinda think it was in some "halfway unlocked" state. My boss thinks it could be some kind of purposeful theft-deterrent configuration. I have no idea. I'm just worried I'll come out to some parking lot at night and find myself locked out of the car unless I disconnect the battery for 12 hrs. Once bitten, twice shy. |
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01-09-2018, 01:28 PM | #17 |
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01-09-2018, 01:48 PM | #18 |
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I guess it was an option and I'm guessing u just hav heated seats option. What's ur last 7 of the vin
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01-09-2018, 08:22 PM | #19 |
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Have you tried holding down the unlock button to open all of the windows? You can also turn the key in the door to the unlock position twice and hold to open the windows.
I do not have comfort access & I’m on stock codes; both of these work on my 2011 335i (newer & different trim, but worth a try at least?) |
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