[mecheng77]

Ok so I got tired of waiting for the first 328i with the a/c issue; post here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1438044


A 2007 came up for sale at a BMW dealer with only 107,000km - 2 owner vehicle, no accidents.
It has a small curb rash on the bumper and front quarter panel which isn't a big deal for me.

The only issue is the PS is making a groaning noise, the reservoir was empty but they said the car is as - is. For the price I didn't want to lose it, so I am rolling the dice. The salesman said he thinks it could be the PS pump but because it is as-is they can't verify or have their mechanics look at it.

Hopefully its the pump and not the rack leaking. Any used vehicle is a gamble, I will do some tests on Saturday when I pick it up. It steers okay.

Any advice? Any typical failures for the steering system on these cars? I haven't read anything.

I also noticed an odd warrantee claim at 36,000km, Defect code 1120332 which I looked up: Cylinder Head Deformed / Distorted. One other 2007 328i I was considering had the exact same warantee claim.
Were these cars having issues with the heads??? The labour code is 0000000 "special flat rate number w/o limit"

Other than that, it is in good shape and I am very excited and nervous at the same time. Gotta roll the dice sometimes, I did with my Volvo and I got a gem. I love it!! (I think LOL)

[torrque]

Fill the reservoir and see if it keeps going down. If it does, expect leaks under the car, and probably some hoses leaking.. (hopefully not the rack, which is more expensive to do).

I would get under and check for leaks first, especially from the pump on high pressure line to the rack...

Good luck

[N52UNED]

Hopefully the car is a crazy good deal not to pass on it. Regarding the power steering ... fill the reservoir. If it goes down you likely have a leak somewhere. If it's not something you intend to DIY ... find a good Indy that specializes in BMW's or at least German/European cars.

As for the warranty claim ... it might be due to the N52 lifter tick. Pretty common. That's likely the reason for the head replacement ... which was to replace the head to the updated design (after late '08). They might have just labeled the reason as a "deformed head" although it was really a design flaw. If it had a the head replaced to the updated version ... that's a good thing, as you won't have to worry about getting the dreaded N52 lifter tick.

[mecheng77]

Yes, that will be my first plan of action.

Here is a snap shot of the warantee work done on it for the cylinder head.

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by N52UNED

Hopefully the car is a crazy good deal not to pass on it. Regarding the power steering ... fill the reservoir. If it goes down you likely have a leak somewhere. If it's not something you intend to DIY ... find a good Indy that specializes in BMW's or at least German/European cars.

As for the warranty claim ... it might be due to the N52 lifter tick. Pretty common. That's likely the reason for the head replacement ... which was to replace the head to the updated design (after late '08). They might have just labeled the reason as a "deformed head" although it was really a design flaw. If it had a the head replaced to the updated version ... that's a good thing, as you won't have to worry about getting the dreaded N52 lifter tick.

So they need to replace the entire head for the lifter tick? Wow if so. See the snap shot I posted.

I can change the pump, I reviewed the DIY, it is within my skill level. Rack, I'm not sure

It was a good deal, multiple thousands less than comparables.

[torrque]

I just realized you're in Toronto... Canadian. I am no longer helping, sorry.

You know how many Canadians are needed to screw on a light bulb?
5. One to hold the bulb and 4 to turn the table.

[desertman123]

These cars groan when you're in a parking lot, nothing is wrong. Make sure you got topped off fluid with fresh pentosin

[mecheng77]

Picked up the car yesterday, before I left the dealer filled the PS reservoir, drove home and it is still full. It might have a slow leak somewhere but with the air box removed I couldn't see any from the hoses nor the pump itself. The system should never consume fluid so its too early too tell. The dealer simply could have filled the reservoir with CHF-11S before I drove it and I would have paid more money for the car. Their policy is if the car doesn't meet a certain criteria, they don't touch it; except a carwash which I requested. Crossing fingers for now....

On the drive home, I was testing all the features; everything seemed okay. I lower the rear passenger window and it wouldn't rise. Its raining and I'm driving on one of the busiest highways in North American, yet I was laughing and happy because the car drove mint. Love the steering feel.

I cleaned the engine bay and because BMW doesn't recommend changing the air filter I decided to have a look at it. It was filthy and it looks to be original!
104,000km is a lot for an air filter. Not sure why they schedule a cabin filter but not an engine air filter. Even though it is true an air filter works better when they get a bit dirty as they pass less contaminates.
Do you guys recommend Mann or Mahle? Crazy that it has two filters, what gives?

I scanned the car for codes, none were found. I'm going to buy the Foxwell NT510 to scan BMW codes. What do you guys think of this scanner?

Greased the hinges, checked the fluid level in the BMW battery and I reset the computer because I want it to adapt to the new air filter and I'm not sure if the previous owner use Premium gas, do you guys use 87,89, or 91?

[Jim_B]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

The dealer simply could have filled the reservoir with CF10 before I drove it and I would have paid more money for the car.

Do you guys recommend Mann or Mahle?

Does your car take CHF-11S? My wife's '09 does and, judging by the green sticker on the PS reservoir cap, yours may also.

I think either one is fine, but I used Mann.

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by Jim_B

Does your car take CHF-11S? My wife's '09 does and, judging by the green sticker on the PS reservoir cap, yours may also.

I think either one is fine, but I used Mann.

Correct CHF-11s, I corrected my post

[tlow98]

The ‘second’ air filter is a charcoal filter that is meant to filter gasoline fumes from escaping after the car is turned off.

[desertman123]

It's not in the computer/CBS, but if I recall BMW's official word is to replace the air filter every oil change, which of course means every 15k. Mann/Mahle/BMW it doesn't matter, just buy whatever's available.

Originally Posted by tlow98

The ‘second’ air filter is a charcoal filter that is meant to filter gasoline fumes from escaping after the car is turned off.

Lots of people choose to cut this out . Some claim its for performance, but I just figured if the filter is in there long enough it's bound to get clogged. One could argue the charcoal element was only supposed to last til the end of the 4yr/50k mile warranty.

Seems like you like doing preventative maintenance. Check out those VANOS solenoids - worth the 15 min it takes to clean them, along with MAF, change spark plugs and just inspect the engine bay all over.

Use 91. These aren't crazy high compression motors or forced induction, so 87 would be fine, but why lose the MPGs and 5hp to save $3 every fill?

Not sure on that scanner but I can attest that both CarlyBMW and INPA/NCS/etc (the actual BMW dealership tools). is a great way to go. Carly can code stuff, give you a live readout of critical items (oil temp, water pump speed, IATs, etc.) and read all the BMW specific codes.

My advice? Fix that window and just enjoy driving the thing.

[mecheng77]

Yes I cleaned the maf, I will clean the solenoida
Tonight, looks easy thanks for the tip.

I was thinking of the foxwell because it can scan
Other makes. Not sure if it does the battery adaption. Removed the window regulator last night. Some of the electrical connectors had me worried because they didn't have clips, I just pulled on them hoping they wouldn't break and was ok. Going to order a new one today.

The owner must have missed that note because
The filter is stamped with its original date

[F22_Raptor]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

Do you guys recommend Mann or Mahle?

Do you guys use 87,89, or 91?

I use Mann for my oil filter, cabin filter and air filter. As for fuel octane, I always pump 91. I get tempted to pump 87, but I chicken out and get 91 in the end lol

[mecheng77]

Looks like the OEM filter was a Mahle which my parts guy had for $33.

I also installed a new PW regulator, made by Doorman for $107. The old one had a jammed cable, not sure if that was fixable but I had to cut the wire to remove it. I was surprised the electrical connectors in the door for switch and speaker don't have clips, you just pull on them hard... it was a bit unnerving.

I plan to do a Trans fluid change, do you know if I have the GM transmission?
My parts guy has the brand Total Dextron VI, has anyone heard of the brand. It says made in Canada. He has it for $6/L. The dealer said I need to check the sticker on the bottom of the pan.

[tlow98]

www.realoem.com and enter your VIN to see what trans you have.

Suggest you also change the trans filter/pan while you're in there. Also, look up the many DIYs out there, because changing the fluid is not as simple as drain a refill. Getting the right fluid level isn't incredibly straightforward, but it's very doable.

Oh, and nice work tearing into the beast so fast!

[Jim_B]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

I plan to do a Trans fluid change, do you know if I have the GM transmission?
My parts guy has the brand Total Dextron VI, has anyone heard of the brand. It says made in Canada. He has it for $6/L. The dealer said I need to check the sticker on the bottom of the pan.

I'm pretty sure it's:
-325i = ZF auto transmission, plastic pan
-328i = GM GA6-L45R, made in France, metal pan with 17 bolts.

I can only speak about my wife's '09 328i, and it's got the GM trans. The pan on the 328 trans is not replaced, just the fluid, filter and gasket. I made sure I got the gasket with the metal collars/spacers around the bolt holes. There's a write-up on how to change the fluid for the GM trans in the DIY section. I bought the Dexron VI fluid in Walmart for US$4.27 per quart. Total is a large company, I'd imagine their fluid is fine as long as it meets the spec. Take a look under the car. If you've got a steel pan with a green sticker on it, I'm pretty sure you've got the GM trans. There's also an aluminum tag on, IIRC, the left side of it. The tag has the manufacturer, model and country of origin.

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by tlow98

www.realoem.com and enter your VIN to see what trans you have.

Suggest you also change the trans filter/pan while you're in there. Also, look up the many DIYs out there, because changing the fluid is not as simple as drain a refill. Getting the right fluid level isn't incredibly straightforward, but it's very doable.

Oh, and nice work tearing into the beast so fast!

Thanks guys for the encouragement, I took the car out last night for my 2nd drive with it; it was great. Having just drove a Porsche 911 Carrera S - 991 at a Las Vegas track, I can honestly say the BMW has just as good steering feel and while I haven't pushed my car to the handling limits it feels on par. Mid to low torque is great, being picky it runs a bit out of steam on the top end compared to my T5

I've reviewed the DIY, its not clear if I need to replace any drain or fill plug crush washer or gasket?

I will probably end up going to a GM dealer to buy the Dexron to ensure it is completely compatible; not a fan of generic multi spec fluids.

If I use a good quality Synthetic oil is that sufficient, is the LL spec only for long life or does it have specific compounds for our engine? When I removed the solenoids, they were very clean and so was the oil.

Thanks

[Jim_B]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

I've reviewed the DIY, its not clear if I need to replace any drain or fill plug crush washer or gasket?

I'd replace the trans drain plug, I think it's only about $2 or so. The drain and fill plugs for the diffs, transfer case and GM transmission all have o-rings, not crush washers. I figured I'd find o-rings (at NAPA, etc.) after I removed the plugs, but couldn't find any that fit perfectly. I re-used the old o-rings and so far they're not leaking. I think it may have been you that said a lot of things on these cars are over- or under-engineered. The plugs for the the diffs and transfer case have 14mm hexes. (Large.) The drain for the trans is about 5mm or so. (Very small.) I didn't, but I could see how it would be easy to strip the hex on the trans drain plug, especially in a salty environment like Toronto.

Originally Posted by mecheng77

I will probably end up going to a GM dealer to buy the Dexron to ensure it is completely compatible; not a fan of generic multi spec fluids.

If I use a good quality Synthetic oil is that sufficient, is the LL spec only for long life or does it have specific compounds for our engine?

I'm not a fan of multi-vehicle fluids either, but they're probably just fine. My understanding is that if it meets the D6 spec, it should be okay. (Debatable, I suppose.) That's why I went with the inexpensive Walmart stuff.

Not sure about the motor oil question, I just used Castrol (Edge??) 0W-40 that meets the LL spec. It's not much more money than the stuff that doesn't, so I figured I'd use the LL oil. (I definitely don't plan on having a 15,000 mile OCI.)

[ctuna]

BMW maintenance means no maintenance for 100k
and 15k oil changes . As you have noticed all your filters
are dirty. The not change anything but oil and that only reluctantly
started with the free maintenace program.

Google Mike Miller BMW and download the old school maintenace
schecule. If you if you do half as much as what Miller suggests
it will be more than twice as much as what BMW does under the
free schedule.

I would change out all the lifetime fluids for starters.

[Efthreeoh]

Okay, so I set some things straight here.

Engine Air Filter: The BMW recommended engine air filter change interval is every 3rd oil change as dictated by the CBS (Condition Based Service) maintenance system. Somehow on the internet that has come to mean a 15,000 mile oil change, but that's actually false. But if you assume a 15,000 OCI then the engine filter gets changed about every 45,000 miles, which is about the industry norm for modern cars. The maintenance booklet states to change the engine air filter every 3rd oil change. A dirty engine air filter like the one you had is not a bad thing; it actually means it doing it's job. Don't worry that it went a little long in the change interval.

Power Steering: There has to be a leak somewhere because the power system shouldn't lose any fluid. If it is leaking, there are only a few places it can leak from. First check the steering rack bellows. The bellows are the rubber boots on each end of the rack that protect the hydraulic pistons and ball joint of the inner tirerod end. Just squeeze the boot. If you hear a sloshing/slushing sound, then there is fluid in the boot, which means the rack end piston seals on the rack are leaking. The other places the system can leak is at the hose connections, there are just two on the underside of the reservoir, and two that are on the rack, and two for the PS cooling hose. There are also two hard lines on the rack itself. All E90's use CHF-11S. I think Pentosin has since introduced a new fluid that meets the CHF-11 spec but has a different name. BMW AG does not recommend a change interval (most manufacturers don't), but most dealers suggest the service. They figured out people on the forums, mostly enthusiasts, change the PS fluid, so they started recommending the service because it's easy money. It's really not necessary if the system never has an issue, but it's not a bad idea to flush the fluid and refresh it. I do mine every 150,000 miles or so. I've flushed it twice. Flush the system, don't do the turkey-baster method, it is a waste of fluid; for 50 cents you just need two new crush washers and just open up one banjo bolt on the steering rack.

Stick with a Mahle or the MANN engine oil filter. Both companies are BMW OEM. The MANN HU-816 is the correct OE oil filter. Other aftermarket oil filters do not fit correctly IMO. Use engine oil that meets BMW Spec for LL-01. You change interval is up to you. Most people think 7,500 miles is appropriate, but the N52 can easily handle a longer interval.

By the looks of it I'm not so sure your car has had a decent maintenance plan in it's 107,000 KM life so I agree with ctuna and you should go change every fluid: engine oil, PS, trans, diff, brake fluid, and coolant. Make it easy on yourself and just use BMW coolant with distilled water.

I see where you already pulled the air box. Make sure you didn't lose the little half-dome rubber isolator that sits under the airbox on a threaded stud on the framerail. Sometimes it pulls off the stud and drops into the engine bay. Lots of folks will drop the belly pan and find it and go WTF?

Good luck with the car.

[mecheng77]

I went to the BMW dealer yesterday and pickup some coolant and oil. The coolant was a reasonable price $25, the oil was 5W-30 $12/L.

At a parts store I found LL-01 oil - Castrol Edge but it was only available in 5W-40, the other grades of Castrol Edge like 5W-30 were not LL-01. Does Castrol Edge come in 5W-30 or do you guys run 5W-40 which will give you extra protection once the engine is warm?

My parts guy informed me that Mann has bought a stake in Purolator, the Purolator oil filter he got me has Made in Germany on the top and looks just like the Mann filter. So if you are ever looking for oil filters and they can only source Purolator, it is worth checking out, he gets them for me for $11/each.

http://www.businesswire.com/news/hom...-Joint-Venture

I don't agree with the Miler schedule on the whole, I think it is too conservative and wastes resources. Platinum plugs have no problem with 160,000km for example, I've removed many at that mileage and the tips were in decent shape.

I will change the transmission fluid this weekend. I passed on the BMW Dexron at $15/L, Petro Canada apparantly makes the AC Delco fluid and you can get that here for $6/L.