[Midshift]

Hey all!

I am relatively new to E90 post but have been lurking around here accumulating a large majority of the parts I needed to bring my rwd 2007 E92 up to par with the locals. As of today I have purchased all of my FBO + Inlets/Outlets and will be installing everything myself (with the help of my twin brother) next week during our college break. With that said, the list is fairly long and extensive -- although we are very much so mechanically inclined and have the proper tools. The wallet is feeling pretty good as well, as I've been able to collect everything for under $1000 total! Here's what I have on my-to-do list so far:

Remove CDV Valve
Remove Stock Exhaust
Install ARM 5" Intercooler (couldn't find a VRSF 7" and purchased before holiday sale)
Install MMP Aluminum Outlets (Using 3" to 2.5" silicone adapter for ARM Intercooler)
- Remove Heat Shield
Install MMP Silicone Relocation Inlets
- Relocate Coolant Tank
- Relocate Vacuum Canisters
- Fill/Burp Coolant System
Install VRSF Catless Downpipes
Re-Adjust Wastegates
Install custom 2.5" Stainless Steel Exhaust System
Modify ECM/BB Cover

The car already has a Synapse BOV/CP setup I installed earlier this year so n worries on the cold side of things. My plan right now is to go ahead and remove everything in the way, then start with adjusting the wastegates. From there it will be inlets, outlets, downpipes, and intercooler. Does this sound like a good plan of attack? I'm doubting anyone has done this much work in one week, but if there is any advice/foresight someone could give me that would be much appreciated! I do realize the ARM Intercooler proposes an issue as it utilizes the 2.5" stock c-clip adapters, so it will most likely be up for sale or trade for a VRSF 7" sooner rather than later (I already purchased a 2.5" to 3" silicone adapter w/ t-bolt clamps for the time being). I have read all of the DIYs for these tasks and understand it will be a lot of time/headaches invested. Other than that, I'm hoping for ~400whp/440tq on the new v8 MHD 93oct S2+ map!

[MooreBoost]

Great looking car, and it's very cool that you and your brother will be working together.

Have fun and make some memories.

Following along.

[Faredo]

Add new plugs and delete vacuum cans instead of relocate.

[Midshift]

Originally Posted by Faredo

Add new plugs and delete vacuum cans instead of relocate.

Plugs were changed around 9k ago - though it wouldn't be a bad idea considering everything will be ripped apart. As far as deleting the vacuum canisters, I didn't think about that. Will be looking up a DIY. Thank you!

[RocketSurgeon]

Looks like a great build. That wrap looks great, what color is it?

[Midshift]

Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon

Looks like a great build. That wrap looks great, what color is it?

Thank you! Its Avery Dennison Satin White Pearl and the black is Avery Dennison Gloss Metallic Black. Installed it myself!

[akg123]

Originally Posted by Midshift

Thank you! Its Avery Dennison Satin White Pearl and the black is Avery Dennison Gloss Metallic Black. Installed it myself!

I was debating on going with the satin white pearl but after seeing your car I think I'm sold. I also plan on doing it myself. How difficult was it?

[Midshift]

Originally Posted by akg123

I was debating on going with the satin white pearl but after seeing your car I think I'm sold. I also plan on doing it myself. How difficult was it?

It wasn't bad. These cars come apart fairly easy compared to others. Everything can be done in one piece if you take your time -- no need for seams. Only took a weekend to complete with two people!

[Midshift]

Figured this thread was due for an update as everything has been installed... but not without issues. :

Removal of everything was very straightforward and simple -- bagged and tagged most nuts and bolts and removed unnecessary heat shields as recommended in DIYs/Instructions for aftermarket parts. Checked out the wastegate flappers and as expected they are pretty loose (go figure). Only removal that proved to be an issue was the rear inlet -- particularly the torx screw above the rear turbo. After a while of hassling with it, and welding a bit onto a small wrench, I was able to remove the inlet.

First installation was the MMP Aluminum Outlets... boy what headache. Decided it was a good idea to install the front relocation inlet to check for clearances while adjusting the outlets. Rear turbo elbow as fine, but I had to oval the long pipe in order to slide it between the aluminum coolant line and the frame rail so that the outlet sat low enough for the inlet to rest. This caused issue as the collector coupler had to be vertical instead of on an angle (if you have installed these you'll know what I mean)... making it a PITA to get the front turbo pipe to seal to the collector coupler (which it didn't). Space with the aluminum outlets was at a minimal, and I'm 99.99% sure they are the cause of my boost leak. Had to use a ~60* pipe from scrap to try and reprimand, but it most likely caused more harm than good. Will be replacing these with a set of full silicone MMP outlets within the next two weeks to try and alleviate some headaches down the road. Most likely would have been a fine install if I had not opted for relocation inlets.

This leads me into installing the relocation inlets. Front turbo was easy peasy. Rear proved to be much more difficult. It ended up only being myself trying to install these -- contrary to my initial thought. Tried to install from the top and NOPE that wasn't going to work with my big hands and inlets in the way. Decided to go through the bottom which proved to be a headache as well. I couldn't push the inlet all the way through with the wastegate actuator bracket in the way, so I removed it for the time being to push the silicone pipe up and through. Wasn't a big deal until I snapped the e-clip that holds the actuator rod to the flapper elbow. Chased my tale finding the correct e-clip and got something very close that has been holding on well without issue. Notched the WGA bracket for more clearance for the inlet and easier wrench accessibility should I need to remove it again. The real hassle came with relocating the coolant tank though. Took a couple hours (I will honestly admit to this) to figure out where the PS and Coolant tanks really went because the video instructions provided by MMP were not really up to par, and google images wasn't proving to be efficient. Once I figured out the correct orientation, I tried to barb up the coolant line across the front of the engine. Ironically enough, the bottom plastic connector only orientated one way (towards the AC [rear car] condenser) and there was no way on this green earth that it was going to clear the pulleys and not kink. Took the coolant tank to the grinding wheel to sheer off the large bottom blocker (if you look at the clips you'll know what I mean) so I could orientate towards the front of the car. Unfortunately I thought I had figured this out, and decided to add the coolant. Big mistake as there was a leak that I had just acclimated to spillage during the initial test drive. Lost $25 worth of coolant overnight and decided to buy a 0.5" 90* bend plastic barb to use instead of the short straight ones supplied in the kit. Worked perfectly -- just wished I had thought about it before wasting a gallon of Zerex G-48. Was a bit of trial and error to get things to button up nice, but I'm happy with the outcome after chasing my tail for a little bit. Again, really wish the MMP Instruction video was up to date and included written instructions.

Next up is the ARM Intercooler... again kind of a PITA when it shouldn't have been. Blaming this one on the outlet fitment due to the relocations and lack of adjustability. Nothing against MMP though as I believe the aluminum outlets were discontinued for fitment and hard install regardless. Used a 3" coupler on the hot side over the "stock" connector and t-bolt clamped it to the 3" bend pipe supplied in the MMP Outlet kit. Really couldn't get it to but nonetheless plan to reprimand this issue sooner rather than later. Again, most likely a cause for boost leak and 30ff. One issue I had with the intercooler was lowering the fan shroud as it touched the top part of the hot side tank and wouldn't seat correctly to get the torx screw in the top. Lowered the intercooler, then threaded the screw, and raised the intercooler again. Not a big deal, but thought it was worth mentioning. Fitment was good although a real PITA to fit the hotside on.

CDV was super simple and honestly I think I only saw one or two drops of clutch fluid that fantastically made their way onto my face

Last but not least downpipes and exhaust. After realizing that the rear downpipe needed to go on first--after installing the front one--I battled with it for nearly 25 minutes to get the v-band to sit correctly. Wasn't a fan, but it was probably the frustration from other issues that killed my hopes of an easy install. Front downpipe took all of 2 minutes to clamp and what not. When removing the front downpipe v-band originally, the v-band snapped at the spot weld area in the bottom. Wasted $30 on the correct clamp and drove 40 minutes to the closest BMW dealer to pick it up. Was not for nothing though, as I made my appointment for the airbag recall. The exhaust wasn't anything fancy -- just a custom 2.5" secondary cat-back that we slipped over the 2.35" stock mid pipes and clamped. Install was pretty simple and I'm quite happy with how it sits and sounds for only $175 off a local BMW page!

At the end of it all, I'm happy with how things look. The initial test drive popped codes for low waterpump activity, hpfp sensor, coding issues, and 30ff. The first three were resolved by fixing the leak and reflashing the v8.0 S2+ MHD map. Of course this still leaves the car with quite a large boost leak on the hot side of things (more than likely those dang outlets) as I don't get any positive pressure air to the BOV to even hear any noises. Going to be purchasing full silicone outlets here very soon and swapping them over the weekend as well as double checking fitment and adding heat wrap to anything I feel is too close (literally) for comfort. Will update again once I install the new outlets!

[Midshift]

Update:

Bought some MMP silicone outlets

[Midshift]

Figured this thread was due for an update, just in case anyone had been following!

I have installed the MMP Silicone Outlets without any problems. Wrapped up the close proximity parts in heat wrap and called it a day. Took a little bit of negotiation in order to fit the front turbo piping on but nonetheless it worked. One thing I will mention is that the silicone kit uses screw clamps as compared to the aluminum with t-bolt clamps. Not sure why screw clamps were used instead on this newer, updated kit. Works fine though, so no real complaints.

I have previously mentioned upgrading to a VRSF 7" intercooler. Should have just done this the first time around instead of using the ARM 5" stepped. Nothing against ARM though, but the stock c-clip style connections just didn't work with the outlets. Found the VRSF second hand with the upgraded lower chargepipe for $300. Can't complain there at all. Where I can complain though is that I had decided to buy a lower chargepipe directly from VRSF nearly a week ago and have not received any email updates as far as tracking or order confirmation. Will be returning the new chargepipe as soon as it is received since I had gotten one with the secondhand intercooler (was under the impression they were hard to come by). Not exactly enamored by VR Speed Factory customer service.

Upon installation of these things, I realized the neither wastegate actuator had the vacuum hooked up so that was a mistake on my end. Honestly I was wondering why I had no wastegate rattle after installing everything back in November. To be honest I had just attributed it to the intercooler connections as the car only threw a 30FF code and not the wastegate-affiliated 30FE/C/D/Whatever ones. After installing the rear relocation inlet for the third time, it was still a pain in the ass. I most likely will be relocating the boost solenoids when I am back in that area and removing the metal ridge that runs along the turbo side of the engine to allow for easier installation. Front inlet was kind of a PITA until I realized that some grease/lubricant would help from it catching on the silicone outlet.

So, with it all said and done, I managed to achieve FBO and inlets/outlets relatively cheap. Did all of the work myself, and the car is running tip top. Learned from my mistakes, and should have bought the correct stuff in the first place. Be sure to double check it all during installation. Also, I'll have the MMP aluminum outlets and ARM 5" stepped intercooler for sale here pretty soon.

[Faredo]

Im assuming from your college break reference you're a younger guy. Im glad to see more young people get into their own wrenching. It seems anymore, kids are just not interested in anything that forces them outside. Good work.
Have fun Midshift

[Midshift]

Originally Posted by Faredo

Im assuming from your college break reference you're a younger guy. Im glad to see more young people get into their own wrenching. It seems anymore, kids are just not interested in anything that forces them outside. Good work.
Have fun Midshift

Glad to be here and working on these cars! They truly aren't that complicated just tedious in some aspects of what needs to be removed in order to access the correct component. I've been wrenching/restoring since I purchased my first car (1978 Corvette basket case) at 15 and have been enjoying it ever since! I'm 20 now and working while in college full time, so it's hard to find the leisure time to wrench unless it's during the weekends or during long weekends.

[Ballistic]

Originally Posted by Midshift

I'm hoping for ~400whp/440tq on the new v8 MHD 93oct S2+ map!

Ambitious! I'm going for upto 375hp/460nm max on an honest dyno.

[Midshift]

Originally Posted by Ballistic

Ambitious! I'm going for upto 375hp/460nm max on an honest dyno.

I feel as though its quite close to the mark after driving it! I've seen differing posts but with the car being FBO + Inlets/Outlets I do believe the consensus is closer to 400whp or so. Of course, this is just speculation! Since it is winter here in MI, dyno days are a couple of months away. We shall see during the summer what it will make! Hoping to upgrade to a Walbro 450 and put it on e50 during the summer--although I am worried about the clutch life should I decide to go that route.

[Ballistic]

What i understood here and there is that the MHD OTS maps don't work with upgraded in/outlets. You need a custom tune for it and that will easily bring you to 400whp.