[MyCar]

My belt started squeaking, and taking a look around there is a little bit of oil on the serpentine belt, on my charge pipe, and some near the fan and down below onto the under body plastic paneling.

I'm thinking it's my oil filter housing gasket but then I saw more oil on the engine, please see the attached photos. What's causing the oil to leak in this location on the engine?

I have a 2011 335i xDrive, with the N55 engine and with an oil cooler. If it's the OFHG, is that difficult on an xDrive with oil cooler? The 3rd bolt is under the intake manifold and appears to have no access, unlike some other photos I've seen. If the intake manifold is loosened, does the intake manifold need a new gasket after loosening the bolts?

I'm not sure if it's the OFHG, but I would appreciate any insights you all can offer.

[PNWE90]

Definitely OFHG. Change both. Probably a good time to change your belt and pulleys while you are in there.....depending on how many miles you have.

[PNWE90]

You’ll have to loosen up the bolts on the valve cover to get to that corner bolt. No need to replace the valve cover gasket if you torque everything back down properly and in sequence

[jwalker87]

Originally Posted by PNWE90

You’ll have to loosen up the bolts on the valve cover to get to that corner bolt. No need to replace the valve cover gasket if you torque everything back down properly and in sequence

Is that an N55 thing? I know for a fact that on the N54 you do NOT have to touch the valve cover. Just remove the nuts on the intake manifold and move it slightly to access the third bolt on the oil filter housing. No need to replace the 6 "gaskets" (really just o-rings) on the intake manifold.

Also, since you have the oil cooler there are 2 gaskets you should replace on the oil filter housing - the OFHG and the Oil Filter Control Housing Gasket (OFCHG).

You should take a look around the valve cover, though - they start leaking at around the same mileage as the OFHG, generally.

[weehe126]

You have to loosen the intake manifold, not the valve cover.

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by PNWE90

You’ll have to loosen up the bolts on the valve cover to get to that corner bolt. No need to replace the valve cover gasket if you torque everything back down properly and in sequence

I looked in the DIY section, and didn't see a DIY for those that have an oil cooler. Is there a DIY anywhere for those of us who have an oil cooler, or is the procedure the same? What would be the proper sequence and torque?

Originally Posted by JWALKER87

Also, since you have the oil cooler there are 2 gaskets you should replace on the oil filter housing - the OFHG and the Oil Filter Control Housing Gasket (OFCHG).

You should take a look around the valve cover, though - they start leaking at around the same mileage as the OFHG, generally.

So you think it might be my valve cover instead? Where would I have to look for signs of valve cover oil leak?

Lastly, what are the part numbers for all these gaskets I need.

Thank you everyone

[JB4N]

Originally Posted by weehe126

You have to loosen the intake manifold, not the valve cover.

This is correct, don't touch the valvecover.

[racermp]

Originally Posted by JB4N

This is correct, don't touch the valvecover.

Right on. I saw that and got confused, wondering if I was reading wrong again hahaha. Sip sip

[MyCar]

I found the following part numbers:
11428637821 Oil Filter Housing Gasket
11428637820 Engine Oil Cooler Gasket

Is this all I need and does anyone know who makes these for BMW, is it Mann? Or should I buy original BMW.

[PNWE90]

Sorry! I meant I take manifold as other said - do not touch the valve cover.

[racermp]

Originally Posted by MyCar

I found the following part numbers:
11428637821 Oil Filter Housing Gasket
11428637820 Engine Oil Cooler Gasket

Is this all I need and does anyone know who makes these for BMW, is it Mann? Or should I buy original BMW.

Get oem. Fcpeuro has them for 30 each

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by PNWE90

Sorry! I meant I take manifold as other said - do not touch the valve cover.

I purchased both gaskets today direct from BMW. I'm going to tackle this in the morning. If I need to loosen the intake manifold, what is the torque and sequence when I put everything back?

[MyCar]

I replaced the OFHG and the oil cooler gasket, both were deteriorating so I'm glad I did both.

I did need to loosen and move the intake manifold. For future reference if you have an N55, you have to loosen and move the intake manifold as there is absolutely no room for the 3rd bolt. With N54 engines this may not be necessary.

Does anyone know the sequence and torque for the 7 manifold bolts? Same question for the housing screws❔

Lastly, there is a tube attached on the right side of the filter housing that carries coolant. Some coolant leaked out, does that mean there is air in the system now and I need to bleed the coolant line of any air? If so, what's the procedure for bleeding coolant line of air? ❔❓

Thank you!

[jwalker87]

I can't recall the torque specs off the top of my head, but the sequence isn't important. Snug them all up before torquing any, though. There should be a DIY on the forum somewhere with the torque specs, else maybe I can look it up in the Bentley manual later.

For the coolant bleeding procedure:
-Hook up a battery charger. Proceed at risk if without this.
-Turn the car to "on" (do not start the engine)
-Turn the HVAC to the hottest setting, and the minimum fan speed
-Hold the accelerator pedal down for ~10 seconds, until you hear the water pump start running
-Let the car do its thing for ~10 minutes, and add coolant as necessary

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by jwalker87

I can't recall the torque specs off the top of my head, but the sequence isn't important. Snug them all up before torquing any, though. There should be a DIY on the forum somewhere with the torque specs, else maybe I can look it up in the Bentley manual later.

For the coolant bleeding procedure:
-Hook up a battery charger. Proceed at risk if without this.
-Turn the car to "on" (do not start the engine)
-Turn the HVAC to the hottest setting, and the minimum fan speed
-Hold the accelerator pedal down for ~10 seconds, until you hear the water pump start running
-Let the car do its thing for ~10 minutes, and add coolant as necessary

Thanks for the reply.
So that's it, the system will bleed of any air itself just by doing the above? I don't have to open any valve or anything to let the air escape? What happens if I don't use a battery charger and battery dies?
I have an old school battery charger, just hook it up to the battery while the battery is hooked up to the car?