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      08-17-2017, 03:14 PM   #1
izaazk
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FRIED DME??

So I've been having issues with low end power (non existent very slow lifts from stop)

P112E code.... (throttle angle too low)

I had an Indy hook it up to a computer scanner and said I had a whole bunch of DME codes and that my DME is fried.....

That's the only issue I have....

How screwed am I or is the Indy scamming me
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      08-17-2017, 03:16 PM   #2
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      08-17-2017, 04:15 PM   #3
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Bad battery???
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      08-17-2017, 04:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoythemusic View Post
Bad battery???
The battery codes were from something else lol


The main thing is that the issue I have is very inconsistent and intermittent

I did a leak test and there are no leaks at all within the intake tract!!

This leads to sensor / dme issues.... I've replaced MAP sensor no luck...

I have a new MAF...

Should I replace the TMAP
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      08-17-2017, 06:12 PM   #5
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Take it to another Indy and see what they say
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      08-18-2017, 01:47 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izaazk View Post
So I've been having issues with low end power (non existent very slow lifts from stop)

P112E code.... (throttle angle too low)

I had an Indy hook it up to a computer scanner and said I had a whole bunch of DME codes and that my DME is fried.....

That's the only issue I have....

How screwed am I or is the Indy scamming me
Try to work with a shop who's got proper BMW software to diagnose (ISTA D) that would make it easier. FWIW I don't think a fried DME would throw very specific error codes, however it looks like something messing up with one of the communication bus, ISTA would show that more clearly I think.
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      08-18-2017, 06:57 AM   #7
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If you haven't replaced your battery yet, do so. I've never had one that lasted more than 4 years, so yours may already have a dead cell. If you're not getting proper voltage and it's throwing codes, a simple battery test will go a long way towards diagnosis. If your DME was truly "fried", the engine wouldn't start. In that case, the proper term is "bricked".
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      08-18-2017, 04:15 PM   #8
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Use ISTA to check the codes, but only after you clear them first. Check which ones come back.
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      08-18-2017, 05:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afranke View Post
Use ISTA to check the codes, but only after you clear them first. Check which ones come back.
Never used it lol

Quick tutorial by any chance?
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      08-18-2017, 09:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by izaazk View Post
Never used it lol

Quick tutorial by any chance?
Quick? Not even close. Post in this thread asking for details and you should get links to guides and such: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1312102
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      08-19-2017, 07:25 AM   #11
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youll know when you brick your DME. let me tell you..
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      08-19-2017, 09:07 AM   #12
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I wouldn't worry about all those codes. I tried a "full/deep scan" at my shop also and got a HUGE list even though there was only CEL for one error. Cleared them all - no issues since.
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      08-19-2017, 09:57 AM   #13
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People said that if the DME goes bad my car won't start??

So this all happend after fried tmap due to Jb4 install.... I've been talking to a guy in bmw service and he said it maybe because of the ground point

Said to move it to the oil filter housing....

I'm using thick gauge speakerwire for the ground point.... no issues there right???

Code is back after clearing and same issue with new map maf and tmap sensor :/
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      08-19-2017, 03:24 PM   #14
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The MAF code is common on aftermarket intakes. A lot of us run with the MAF unplugged and just deal with the code/light. The other one, if you think the ground trace is fried, you just need to tap the ground wire of the TMAP and run it to any ground (last page of the install guide: http://www.burgertuning.com/instruct...4_f_series.pdf). I assume speaker wire should be OK, but I always use just regular like 18 gauge (I think).
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      08-19-2017, 03:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afranke View Post
The MAF code is common on aftermarket intakes. A lot of us run with the MAF unplugged and just deal with the code/light. The other one, if you think the ground trace is fried, you just need to tap the ground wire of the TMAP and run it to any ground (last page of the install guide: http://www.burgertuning.com/instruct...4_f_series.pdf). I assume speaker wire should be OK, but I always use just regular like 18 gauge (I think).
I'm running stock intake and maf has been replaced already!!

Ground is okay I reworked it wth new wire
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      08-20-2017, 12:37 AM   #16
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Hi

I fried the TMAP trace on my DME my letting the USB cable come in contact with V+. I wrote this guide - hope it helps.

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31469
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      08-21-2017, 01:17 PM   #17
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Not to hijack the thread but I had a P112F code that I was able to clear and it has yet to come back. This was after I went FBO and had driven the car for about 6 hours of total drive time. Wasn't sure if this had to due with the TMAP.
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