[clemsonkev]

After my PCD in July, I will be spending the weekend in the mountains. Blue Ridge Parkway, 421 The Snake, Diamondback, Etc.

How do I need to limit my driving with this engine? How many miles?

Thanks in advance....

[No Boost]

http://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1221188

[clemsonkev]

thanks. in summary.....
warm up first. every time. then keep under 5500rpm for first 1200 miles. vary speed and throttle. got it!

[boostm3]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

thanks. in summary.....
warm up first. every time. then keep under 5500rpm for first 1200 miles. vary speed and throttle. got it!

Depends what you mean by 'warm up'. In the olden days, you were supposed to idle to warm it up.. You definitely dont need or want to do that today.

[clemsonkev]

Warm up first = don't get on it hard right away while the engine is cold

[lax01]

5500rpms...yeah, good luck

[doug_999]

Vary the rpm and don't get in it until warm. Oh yea, go easy on the brakes for the first 200 miles. Other than that, enjoy and don't worry about anything else.

[lax01]

Originally Posted by doug_999

Vary the rpm and don't get in it until warm. Oh yea, go easy on the brakes for the first 200 miles. Other than that, enjoy and don't worry about anything else.

Why go easy on the brakes? I feel like they need to be bedded in properly as my feel spongey after a quick canyon run...either the stock pads are really bad and fade pretty easily or I really need to bed the pads in to get them to work properly. Curious what your reasoning is though...

[M2Nebula]

Just use common sense. If your brakes feel spongy then something doesn't sound right to me. I feel like I could be catapulted through the windshield when I hit mine. I did some minor bedding in runs, but nothing crazy.

[lax01]

Originally Posted by M2Nebula

Just use common sense. If your brakes feel spongy then something doesn't sound right to me. I feel like I could be catapulted through the windshield when I hit mine. I did some minor bedding in runs, but nothing crazy.

I need to drive the car (hard) more to see if the brakes really were fading - I didn't want to lose brakes in the canyon so I slowed down and took it easy...what type of bedding did you do? I'm worried the BMW brake fluid will also boil and want to swap to Castrol SRF

[doug_999]

Originally Posted by lax01

Why go easy on the brakes? I feel like they need to be bedded in properly as my feel spongey after a quick canyon run...either the stock pads are really bad and fade pretty easily or I really need to bed the pads in to get them to work properly. Curious what your reasoning is though...

Just going off everything I have read over the years - here are two I just found.

https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech....jsp?techid=85

https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/bedding-in/

[bim2er]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

After my PCD in July, I will be spending the weekend in the mountains. Blue Ridge Parkway, 421 The Snake, Diamondback, Etc.

How do I need to limit my driving with this engine? How many miles?

Thanks in advance....

Interesting that I have not seen one person discuss the manual's reference to 1200 to 3100 miles and what to do. The car is not fully broken in at 1200 mi/2000 km.

[M2Nebula]

I read that fully, and if anything have taken it fairly conservative so far up to 997 miles as of yesterday and will do the same over the next break-in range. On bedding brakes, I normally will do a few higher speed stops with constant pressure and then completely let off not holding the pedal down of course. Then drive away as usual. I did this after the first couple hundred miles in which I did the same but at lower speeds. Biggest mistake seems to be inexperienced drivers braking late and hard and then hold the pedal down, hence warped rotors etc...again, just use common senses. Love the brakes on this car, but then again I haven't had it on the track with prolonged hard braking sessions.

[M2Nebula]

Originally Posted by doug_999

Just going off everything I have read over the years - here are two I just found.

https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech....jsp?techid=85

https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/bedding-in/

Hey, thanks for those links. I read them thoroughly after posting. Appears that I most closely followed the Brembo mantra without knowing it. I think driving afterward makes mores sense than stopping and letting cool? Get some air moving over the rotors and calipers, no? Enquiring small minds want to know :-]

[lax01]

Originally Posted by M2Nebula

Hey, thanks for those links. I read them thoroughly after posting. Appears that I most closely followed the Brembo mantra without knowing it. I think driving afterward makes mores sense than stopping and letting cool? Get some air moving over the rotors and calipers, no? Enquiring small minds want to know :-]

I've never heard of doing it "30 times"

Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

What in the hell...

I always followed the StopTech white paper (here).

Here's the StopTech procedure (which also states that 30x might be necessary - crazy):

For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

I guess I was more curious as to why someone wouldn't do a bed in procedure when first taking delivery of the car...of I if just misinterpreted what someone said previously in this thread

[M2Nebula]

Too much information, I need a nap now, so many different pad compounds and rotor materials out there nowadays. Look at battery technology for example, what use to be the correct way to charge may kill your new battery prematurely. Hard to keep up sometimes....

[lax01]

hah...yeah, everyone's got an opinion/theory/truth

Anyway, anybody know who makes the stock pads? Are they Brembo?

[dvas]

Originally Posted by lax01

hah...yeah, everyone's got an opinion/theory/truth

Anyway, anybody know who makes the stock pads? Are they Brembo?

Yes. Says Brembo on the backing plates.

[doug_999]

Originally Posted by M2Nebula

Hey, thanks for those links. I read them thoroughly after posting. Appears that I most closely followed the Brembo mantra without knowing it. I think driving afterward makes mores sense than stopping and letting cool? Get some air moving over the rotors and calipers, no? Enquiring small minds want to know :-]

Well, I personally just avoid hard stops in the first few hundred miles and always make sure engine is warm before getting on it. People go crazy about break in procedures here and I'm reminded of Bill Murray in Meatballs, "It just doesn't matter"

Seriously, these are amazing cars - just drive it.

[stefan]

Originally Posted by lax01

5500rpms...yeah, good luck

This motor makes enough torque that there it shouldn't be that hard to stay under 5500. Take it from someone who's owned a few new M cars.. waaayyy harder back E9x and prior days.

Ultimately though guys, read your manuals. They are written that way for a reason. You can call it nonsense if you want but that's the factory recommended procedure and it's not that difficult.

[McPurrs]

Originally Posted by M2Nebula

I read that fully, and if anything have taken it fairly conservative so far up to 997 miles as of yesterday and will do the same over the next break-in range. On bedding brakes, I normally will do a few higher speed stops with constant pressure and then completely let off not holding the pedal down of course. Then drive away as usual. I did this after the first couple hundred miles in which I did the same but at lower speeds. Biggest mistake seems to be inexperienced drivers braking late and hard and then hold the pedal down, hence warped rotors etc...again, just use common senses. Love the brakes on this car, but then again I haven't had it on the track with prolonged hard braking sessions.

dont actually 'stop' while bedding... that is how you can create a hot spot.. keep rolling while almost coming to a stop to keep everything cooling at the same temp. I am fairly certain this is what you were trying to say, but it reads differently

[lax01]

And by hot spots, you mean pad deposits, right?