[mdai245]

These are 513M with 245/45R18 winter tires on for a test fit. Actual tires will be 245/40R18 so there will be slightly more clearance than in these pictures. Plenty of guys on here are claiming no rub with 437 and 513M M3/M4 wheels.

Is it safe to take these wheels to the track with the front slightly poking out like this? Stock height 440i xdrive.

[lens]

Originally Posted by mdai245

These are 513M with 245/45R18 winter tires on for a test fit. Actual tires will be 245/40R18 so there will be slightly more clearance than in these pictures. Plenty of guys on here are claiming no rub with 437 and 513M M3/M4 wheels.

Is it safe to take these wheels to the track with the front slightly poking out like this? Stock height 440i xdrive.

I hit the track with 18x9 ET30 wheels with 245/40/18s and had no problems. I don't see what would be dangerous. It dialed out any understeer and allowed me to corner alot better.

[mdai245]

Originally Posted by chaungo

I hit the track with 18x9 ET30 wheels with 245/40/18s and had no problems. I don't see what would be dangerous. It dialed out any understeer and allowed me to corner alot better.

This is going to be my first year doing any HPDE and I am not sure what to expect from the suspension when taking corners at high speeds and on bumps. I am imagining a potential scenario with the suspension bottoming out and the tire rubbing on the front fender causing loss of control.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by chaungo

I hit the track with 18x9 ET30 wheels with 245/40/18s and had no problems. I don't see what would be dangerous. It dialed out any understeer and allowed me to corner alot better.

Wider tires up front won't completely eliminate understeer. Understeer is designed into the chassis suspension geometry.

Originally Posted by mdai245

This is going to be my first year doing any HPDE and I am not sure what to expect from the suspension when taking corners at high speeds and on bumps. I am imagining a potential scenario with the suspension bottoming out and the tire rubbing on the front fender causing loss of control.

Fortunately your problem is self correcting. I don't see why people even bother rolling or trimming their fenders. If it rubs, it'll self correct - maybe it'll just rip off your front fender, but it in that case, you never needed that body panel in first place.

[mdai245]

Not very helpful troll post man. I am more looking for feedback on suspension travel at the limit at stock height and weather or not the 2+inches of gap/clearance will prevent the fender rub from happening.

[lens]

Originally Posted by mdai245

Not very helpful troll post man. I am more looking for feedback on suspension travel at the limit at stock height and weather or not the 2+inches of gap/clearance will prevent the fender rub from happening.

I haven't rubbed and I'm lowered on dinan springs. on stock height you'll be more than fine.

[mdai245]

Originally Posted by chaungo

I haven't rubbed and I'm lowered on dinan springs. on stock height you'll be more than fine.

Any camber plates or "race alignment"?

A shop is qouting me $250 for an alignment where they "really dial it in". This same place charges $50 for a mount and balance. Sounds like BMW tax

[lens]

Originally Posted by mdai245

Any camber plates or "race alignment"?

A shop is qouting me $250 for an alignment where they "really dial it in". This same place charges $50 for a mount and balance. Sounds like BMW tax

No camber plates or race alignment as it's my daily. I basically do 75% street 25% track.

Look around for a reputable shop. If you're not lowered at all, then OEM alignment is fine unlrss you really want to do a race one.

[mdai245]

Originally Posted by chaungo

No camber plates or race alignment as it's my daily. I basically do 75% street 25% track.

Look around for a reputable shop. If you're not lowered at all, then OEM alignment is fine unlrss you really want to do a race one.

Thanks. I was really on the fence about these versus the EC7 18x8 ET 35 which I also have on hand for mounting.

I am going to fit my summers on these first and test them out daily for a few weeks to see how they handle and rub or not before going to my first HPDE.

[Dr Thrillride]

Originally Posted by mdai245

Thanks. I was really on the fence about these versus the EC7 18x8 ET 35 which I also have on hand for mounting.

I am going to fit my summers on these first and test them out daily for a few weeks to see how they handle and rub or not before going to my first HPDE.

What track?

[mdai245]

Originally Posted by Dr Thrillride

What track?

NJMP

[Dr Thrillride]

Originally Posted by mdai245

NJMP

You're going to be fine. Ive been on that track with a friend 10 years ago. It hasn't changed much so I'm told. Don't use the aggressive brake markers to start and see how it goes.

[mdai245]

Put the wheels on today with some continental extremecontact sports. Overall very impressed with the improvement in handling all around. Turn in feels sharper, car is more responsive and communicates better, less body roll etc... Acceleration and braking also feel improved. Feels like a completely different car tbh.

Only thing is the ride quality hasnt changed from oem runflats and I am hearing lots of rocks being kicked around by the tires probably due to the tire/wheel poke... hope it doesnt damage the paint too much. Glad I extended my xpel to cover rockers and rear quarter panel beforehand though im still concerned about the doors

[mdai245]

Originally Posted by chaungo

No camber plates or race alignment as it's my daily. I basically do 75% street 25% track.

Look around for a reputable shop. If you're not lowered at all, then OEM alignment is fine unlrss you really want to do a race one.

Could you post or pm pics of your car? I want to see what the drop looks with the existing poke. Thinking about lowering + camber adjustment to make it look/perform better

[GTBrandon]

Originally Posted by mdai245

Put the wheels on today with some continental extremecontact sports. Overall very impressed with the improvement in handling all around. Turn in feels sharper, car is more responsive and communicates better, less body roll etc... Acceleration and braking also feel improved. Feels like a completely different car tbh.

Only thing is the ride quality hasnt changed from oem runflats and I am hearing lots of rocks being kicked around by the tires probably due to the tire/wheel poke... hope it doesnt damage the paint too much. Glad I extended my xpel to cover rockers and rear quarter panel beforehand though im still concerned about the doors

Are wheels 18x8 or larger?

[lens]

Originally Posted by mdai245

Could you post or pm pics of your car? I want to see what the drop looks with the existing poke. Thinking about lowering + camber adjustment to make it look/perform better

I find the drop with Dinan perfect and since I DD my car all year around including winter, it gives me enough space in the wheelwell to clear snow and stuff. The roads in Quebec aren't the best so it also gives me clearance so I don't scrape and can take potholes.

[mdai245]

Nice! Drop looks perfect and wheels look almost flush from those shots. I think its really the gap that is highlighting the wheel poke on my car. Some lowering is definetly in order. Unfortunately im getting qoutes around 1k install for just the dinan springs... need to shop around

Ever think about dialing in some negative camber or not needed?

[lens]

Originally Posted by mdai245

Nice! Drop looks perfect and wheels look almost flush from those shots. I think its really the gap that is highlighting the wheel poke on my car. Some lowering is definetly in order. Unfortunately im getting qoutes around 1k install for just the dinan springs... need to shop around

Ever think about dialing in some negative camber or not needed?

Nah. When you lower the car, it naturally gives a very slight negative camber, I think it will probably tuck in the wheel a tiny bit.

But Dinan says it does not require any different alignment from OEM unless you want to get a race alignment then it's what you want.

I was charged 300$ for installation with spark plugs at the same time. They did my springs in about 3ish hours.

[mdai245]

Originally Posted by chaungo

Nah. When you lower the car, it naturally gives a very slight negative camber, I think it will probably tuck in the wheel a tiny bit.

But Dinan says it does not require any different alignment from OEM unless you want to get a race alignment then it's what you want.

I was charged 300$ for installation with spark plugs at the same time. They did my springs in about 3ish hours.

Interesting and convienient if thats true. Have to look into that.

And $300! I wish I had a capable and modestly priced shop around here to do the install for me. I would not trust my car to a any place that doesnt have a decent rep and procedure docs/torque specs available. That leaves me with specialty "euro" car shops that do BMW charging a $125/hr to $175/hr labor rate at BMW book time = 1k+ for spring install aka BMW tax

When I complained about a leaking strut on my E90, a chrystler tech from the chrystler dealership I just bought the car from was able to swap in 2 new struts in my "complicated" BMW in a little over 1 hour...

[Araemo]

Originally Posted by mdai245

Any camber plates or "race alignment"?

A shop is qouting me $250 for an alignment where they "really dial it in". This same place charges $50 for a mount and balance. Sounds like BMW tax

Originally Posted by chaungo

No camber plates or race alignment as it's my daily. I basically do 75% street 25% track.

Look around for a reputable shop. If you're not lowered at all, then OEM alignment is fine unlrss you really want to do a race one.

It's not 'BMW tax', it's 'alignments are hard if you want it exact'. Basically, 'within spec' is easy, but 'within spec' can still have total thrust angle to one side. Or even horrible toe-in or toe-out on both sides causing tons of understeer.. but still 'within spec'. The problem is, every time you adjust one wheel, it changes the spec on all the other wheels slightly. And really, you can't just put it on the rack once and expect it to be exact, you gotta move it around a few times and double check things to make sure you got it right.

A local guy who doesn't even do alignments at his shop, but used to do them as a BMW master tech told me about seeing people literally put their thumb against a wheel while taking the final measurement to get it to look better for a moment. This is because most shops only budget for an hour's labor or less, but adjusting each type of adjustment on each wheel in an incremental manner while going back and re-checking each wheel after adjusting each other wheel.. can realistically take half a day, if you want a specific amount of camber, ideal combinations of toe and thrust angle, etc...

His recommendation was if you wanted a good, 'track ready' alignment (or just a very good alignment for carving back roads), go to the local porsche dealership, and be ready to pay $300. If you just need it 'good enough' for your daily, take it somewhere that does the lifetime alignment.