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      03-12-2017, 02:16 PM   #1
jwebb335xi
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Radiator Advice - Help Please...

Gentlemen,

Last week I replaced my oil filter housing gasket, one radiator hose, flushed cooling system and changed the oil. This week, I'm seeing a very, very slight coolant leak. I removed the belly pan and it looks like coolant is leaking from the seam of my radiator on the drivers side very near the lower corner.

So, I've got an opportunity. My plan is to replace the radiator and I thought I might do a CSF, which I've read help keep coolant and oil temps in check, particularly allowing for faster recovery when heated up after some hard driving.


Can anyone give me feed back on the following:

CSF install on 2008 335xi with automatic: is the fit truly plug and play and, if you know, will my 5" ETS FMIC cause any fitment issues?

Performance:. Am I likely to see better temps and faster recovery on the street?

Fit with Inlets: Has anyone installed the CSF radiator on an auto 335 and also installed inlets? Will the extra depth of the radiator cause fitment/rubbing of any kind on Silicone Inlets that are in STOCK location... Looking at RBs.


Thanks much!
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      03-14-2017, 03:00 PM   #2
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based on a few posts i've read on the same topic (also researching this for my 335xi 6MT), looks like fitment isn't an issue, not sure with those mods though. The temps seem to be more consistent, particularly on long track runs, but to reduce temps you need to have a tune modify the temp tables. For me, this radiator is worth it to get rid of the plastic BS on the stock one.
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      03-14-2017, 03:34 PM   #3
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The reason the CSF runs cooler is because the core is considerably deeper than the stock radiator (this is per CSF, as I asked the same questions when I had my 335). Yes, there are going to be fitment issues with aftermarket inlets that go to the stock location. Option two is to use inlets to stay in the passenger side. As for the FMIC, you should be just fine with fitment there.
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      03-14-2017, 04:40 PM   #4
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Cool

Definitely helps with all kinds of different temps even without a protune. Oil temps aren't passing 210 after driving fast for 2 hours. Coolant temps are even more impressive (178) A protune will make it work 100x more efficient though & I plan on getting one soon so I can really tell the difference .Just get it! The stock radiator has plastic. Plastic vs aluminum?! Aluminum thank you...

Last edited by Gohan335i7; 03-16-2017 at 02:03 AM..
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      03-15-2017, 02:15 AM   #5
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All of my Temps dropped substantially after getting my tune adjusted. My water temps are in the mid 170's, oil under 210, 6AT transmission fluid mid 180's, IAT's dropped 5F under same situations. This is in 90F+ and 70~80% humidity.

I had problems with fitment with a one piece silicone front inlet. The CSF is fatter/deeper. This pushed the fan shroud inward, and pushed the inlet into a pulley. This was not the fault of the seller/maker of the inlet as all aftermarket inlets are designed only to work with stock radiators. I ended up getting a rigid front inlet that clears the pulley by just under half an inch. The maker of that inlet is no longer in business. Maybe squeezing and zip tying the silicone pipe will work.
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      03-15-2017, 10:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limitdown View Post
All of my Temps dropped substantially after getting my tune adjusted. My water temps are in the mid 170's, oil under 210, 6AT transmission fluid mid 180's, IAT's dropped 5F under same situations. This is in 90F+ and 70~80% humidity.

I had problems with fitment with a one piece silicone front inlet. The CSF is fatter/deeper. This pushed the fan shroud inward, and pushed the inlet into a pulley. This was not the fault of the seller/maker of the inlet as all aftermarket inlets are designed only to work with stock radiators. I ended up getting a rigid front inlet that clears the pulley by just under half an inch. The maker of that inlet is no longer in business. Maybe squeezing and zip tying the silicone pipe will work.
Great information; thank you..... makes me think I'm using stock, or Behr may be a good idea such that I don't have problems with inlets
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      03-15-2017, 10:19 PM   #7
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I use a CSF on my car (I'm in AZ) and it works VERY well -coolant temps seem to be about 20* cooler overall. The VTT inlets do not work perfect with this radiator, but all I did was squash my front inlet a little bit until it held more of an oval shape -it didn't need much massaging. The wire reinforcement will keep the shape after. If you're pushing limits on stock location turbos (read that: above 650 whp) maybe swap to a passenger side inlet for at least the front turbo. I did not see any difference in WGDC by ovaling mine a small amount.

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      03-15-2017, 11:28 PM   #8
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I've got GC Lites and VTT inlets on the way. I'll be using the squash method on the front inlet to fit with the CSF.
The CSF helps too much with all of my temps for me to give it up.
I do believe that lower oil, water and ATF temps improve the reliability and longevity of many components and gaskets. Of course temps that are too low will also cause thir own set of problems, so mod and tune accordingly to your car and climate.
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      03-16-2017, 07:26 AM   #9
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I don't know your location, mobile version, or if your car is a dd, but you may want to look at some posts about people having issues in colder climates when ambient temps drop below freezing. This radiator works so well that at those temps the car can't or takes significantly longer to warm up.
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      03-16-2017, 07:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueee92 View Post
I don't know your location, mobile version, or if your car is a dd, but you may want to look at some posts about people having issues in colder climates when ambient temps drop below freezing. This radiator works so well that at those temps the car can't or takes significantly longer to warm up.
I'll second that. jwebb335xi I didn't see that you were a local Chicago guy. I believe Cloud9blue uses a CSF and has mentioned that he's has issues with it cooling down too much in the cold Chicago climates. Believe the fix is to throw a piece of cardboard or something else to block the front of the radiator during the winter months.
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      07-08-2017, 05:38 AM   #11
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Does anyone have the part number for the radiator to work with auto 08 335i?
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      07-08-2017, 08:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMSE92_Harry View Post
Does anyone have the part number for the radiator to work with auto 08 335i?
7046
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      07-10-2017, 01:45 PM   #13
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Seems like they are all around 500 bucks. What's the best place to order them?
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      07-10-2017, 10:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMSE92_Harry View Post
Seems like they are all around 500 bucks. What's the best place to order them?
I ended up with OE from FCP... maybe $200. My temps stay below 250* even in stop and go well over 90*f. I do not race this car, however!
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