[ikehigh05]

So, I recently swapped out my stock, front turn signals for amber LEDs. After I coded out the warm/code checks, i coded " FEM_Body -> 3061 -> LceLciOutputChannels -> POL_L_IS_LED = aktiv". My question is, would the output of the LED be any different if i only coded out the warm/cold checks and NOT the "is_LED"? What exactly is the "is_LED" coding doing? Im assuming it might be setting up the duty cycle for pwm for the led but Im not sure. Any input would be great.

[Mwahab]

I tried it before when coded out the flickering, i assume its for LED's thats not having a resistors that act like a halogen one.
thats an assumption, it didn't make any difference when i coded it.

[Mwahab]

you can put into that it will throw errors if you coded it out while you are using halogen bulb. thats a 2nd assumption too

[ikehigh05]

I think i figured it out. Coding out the warm/cold checks stops the flickering, and coding is_LED cancels the "bulb malfunctioning"errors on the dash. I played around with it alot over the weekend when i converted my headlights to projectors.

[Mwahab]

Originally Posted by ikehigh05

I think i figured it out. Coding out the warm/cold checks stops the flickering, and coding is_LED cancels the "bulb malfunctioning"errors on the dash. I played around with it alot over the weekend when i converted my headlights to projectors.

You nailed it, right

[RSnic]

Guys,

Sorry if I am joining this thread late, but there are two separate aspects that we have entwined in the discussion about putting LEDs into our cars:

• First, if LED bulb does not have resistor (built in or hooked in), the bulb will flicker -- think that has to do with normal variations in current (which for incandescent bulb would merely be a variation in intensity).
• Second, BMWs have two built-in diagnostics to check whether the bulb is working: cold (at start up); and warm (periodically, think it is every 5 minutes). If the car gets nothing back, then there is an error code or something to indicate a bad bulb.

For the first aspect, getting error-free bulbs will be the cure; while coding is the only way to overcome the second, which you can operate the car safely with no problems (I know I did for a couple of weeks).

Hope that helps!

[Billfitz]

I found that using LED in the fogs and headlights w/canbus harnesses the fogs would flicker (rapid continuous blinking at low light level) no matter what the coding, and required a resistor to stop it. The headlights never flickered. None threw any errors, but all required coding out the warm/cold checks to stop them from periodically flashing.