[DeadeyeDevon]

I searched back and read through a bunch of previous posts but didn't see a clear cut answer on these two questions.

1) do you have to replace the rotors every time you change pads? Even if the rotors are in spec?

2) Do you have to replace the sensors?

Thanks in advance.

[peterparker]

1. If your rotors are in good condition, no warped and within the min specs, you can just replace the pads!

2. If you didn't trip/trigger the sensor, yes you can reuse the old sensor.

[DeadeyeDevon]

Cool, thanks

[peterparker]

I would also recommend a full brake fluid flush and bleed too!! Even for the fronts too.

[DeadeyeDevon]

Thanks, will do

[feuer]

peterparker gave great advice.

[r4dr]

Originally Posted by peterparker

2. If you didn't trip/trigger the sensor, yes you can reuse the old sensor.

To expand on this, be careful when you remove the sensor from the pad so you don't trip it by yanking on it.

[e90Jeet]

Quick question on the similar lines.

I'll be changing break pads, rotors and sensor (rear) this weekend. Do I need to take care of fluid? I got the break fluid flushed last weekend by dealer. And they recommended to change break pads but asking $$$ so decided to do myself.

anything else do I need to take care of apart from hardware installation? One thing is sure to apply break lub before installing any parts. Appreciate your help.

[r4dr]

No. If you do it right, fluid doesn't get exposed to open air when you swap pads. A few tips:

1. One of the two pads is held inside the cavity with a metal clip. If you look at your new pad you will see what I'm talking about. I bring this up because someone in a thread just recently yanked too hard trying to get it out and took the whole piston out with it, spilling fluid everywhere and necessitating a caliper rebuild (new seals, possibly new piston if he scratched it). Wiggle it out GENTLY, it will come out.

2. When you're spreading the caliper open to fit the new, thick pads around where the old, worn pads were, unscrew the cap on the fluid reservoir because pushing the piston back in will push fluid back through the system. Keep an eye on the fluid level so that you don't overflow the reservoir, because brake fluid sucks to get everywhere (ask me how I know about this tip...). I like to unscrew the cap and wrap a towel around the opening just in case.

3. If you've never done brakes on these cars, the anti-rattle clips are a PAIN. But sit there, think about it, and don't just try to brute force them off. They come off in a specific way and once you figure the first one out, the other side will make a lot more sense.

You're doing new pads + rotors so be sure to follow bed-in procedures for your pads. If your pad manufacturer doesn't specifically say how to bed them in, look at a few generic bed-in procedures and come up with something that seems right. It's not rocket science, if you get the general idea you will be fine.

Good luck.

[jimgandhi]

[QUOTE=r4dr;21520562]No. If you do it right, fluid doesn't get exposed to open air when you swap pads. A few tips:

"I bring this up because someone in a thread just recently yanked too hard trying to get it out and took the whole piston out with it, spilling fluid everywhere and necessitating a caliper rebuild"

This sound like something I would do!

[juld0zer]

Keep the old piston side pad fitted. Use this to push or compress the piston back using your choice of tool - wood, multigrip pliers, proper tool. You dont need a wind-back tool on these calipers.

Push in the piston then remove the old pad. That way, you give yourself less chance of pulling out the piston because it has retracted several cm and is now braced by the seal and boot because it is further in the bore.

Removing the discs if u are doing discs is a pain. The 16mm bolts are loctited. Do not try to torque them to 110Nm like the front because they will snap. You are supposed to renew them each time but you can get away with tightening them up firmly.

Dont forget to adjust the handbrake if you are doing discs.