[Th3Guardian]

Hey guys,

Left passenger door won't open from inside, seems like the trigger or "mechanism" is broken from the inside. There doesn't seem to be any resistance as if it lacked a latch.

Door opens fine from outside, but when you try from inside, nothing happens. Usually at the end of the handle when you feel more resistance, there is none.

Any thoughts on how I could fix this?

Thanks.

Also, the drivers seat slightly moves when I go through a bump or when there is a bit of gforce on a turn. Is there something under the seat that can be adjused or looked up to fix this?

Thanks.

Also, the small thing that opens to shoot washing fluid on the headlights does not close upon using the washers. It stays sorta open as if the mechanism there also were broken a bit.

Thanks.

[djh2]

Is your child safety lock engaged? There should be a small switch on the door frame by the latch.

You could check the seat rails are secure, there are four large torx screws that secure the rails to the body. If this is not the problem, you would need to look into the seat mechanism next.

The headlight washers pop out under pressure from the washer fluid pumps, if they are retracting slow you might try pulling them by hand a few times. It might be possible to lubricate these, but I haven't tried to.

[Th3Guardian]

Hmm alright, I'll look into these, thanks dude.

Really appreciate it.

[Th3Guardian]

Alright it indeed was the child lock safety, thanks for that.

Next things on the list is to check seat then the headlight washer.

[Th3Guardian]

Yeah about the seat moving, I think it's the mechanism not the rails, cause the movement only happens in specific moments, not "all the time". I reckon if it were all the time it'd be the rails, since it's what actually holds the whole thing in place.

Feels like one of the mechanisms could be broken or worn out somehow, so the thing securing it in place does not do that very well anymore.

On a second note, what psi should my tires have? It might feel like they're a bit dull or slow. I know they should be a bit less full, which is the proper inflation of tires.



My friend said I should have 2.3 on the front and 2.5 on the back - could that be correct? My tires are 235/40 R18 95T.

[Bluewater328iT]

Originally Posted by Th3Guardian

Yeah about the seat moving, I think it's the mechanism not the rails, cause the movement only happens in specific moments, not "all the time". I reckon if it were all the time it'd be the rails, since it's what actually holds the whole thing in place.

Feels like one of the mechanisms could be broken or worn out somehow, so the thing securing it in place does not do that very well anymore.

On a second note, what psi should my tires have? It might feel like they're a bit dull or slow. I know they should be a bit less full, which is the proper inflation of tires.





My friend said I should have 2.3 on the front and 2.5 on the back - could that be correct? My tires are 235/40 R18 95T.

The sticker indicates 2.8 and 3.2 for maximum load, and your friend's numbers are too low. Refer to your owner's manual as there is even more detailed info available, like what pressure to use if you need to drive over 100 mph/160 kph.

[GottWhat]

Originally Posted by Bluewater328iT

The sticker indicates 2.8 and 3.2 for maximum load, and your friend's numbers are too low. Refer to your owner's manual as there is even more detailed info available, like what pressure to use if you need to drive over 100 mph/160 kph.

I agree

[GottWhat]

Originally Posted by Th3Guardian

Also, the small thing that opens to shoot washing fluid on the headlights does not close upon using the washers. It stays sorta open as if the mechanism there also were broken a bit.

I don't have them on my car but I think this is a common issue. There is a way to code them off so it does not open at all.

[lordbmw]

My door label lists tire pressure for 17" wheels.

I bought the car with 18" wheels so be aware that the label may not match what's on your car.

I also believe my 18" wheels are stock so I'm not sure wtf happened. May be Hanz had too much Schnapps the night before when he put on the label at ze factory.

[djh2]

The label shown lists pressures for a variety of wheel sizes. Also, the icon that looks like a book with an "i" means that the owner's manual has more information for wheel sizes and pressures.

From what it looks like in the manual, 235/40/R18 is not a recommended wheel size, rather it should be 225/40/R18. This means your tread width (first number) is wider than suggested, and the corresponding overall diameter will be slightly larger. The second number is the percentage of width that relates to sidewall height. This is why the staggered set has 225/40 and 255/35 to maintain overall diameter. Small variations like this probably do not affect much beyond your speedometer reading, unless you have mismatched tires and/or x-drive.

Lordbmw, check your VIN in a decoder and it should say what wheels came stock on the order.

[Th3Guardian]

Yeah but the maximum load is only for ppl that have maximum load all the time, eg more than 4 people and other stuff on the car, thus compensating for the loss of pressure in the tires. Looking at the picture (the one on the car) it indicates the correct tire pressure would be 2.5 and 2.8 front and rear respectively - if all I would have is max 4 ppl all the time. If more than that (5 people and stuff) then 2.8 and 3.2 applies? Looking at the picture below it seems that 2.2 and 2.5 is correct? o_O For sports package and up to 160kmh.

Tbh I should check what my tires have right now since a very good workshop changed the tires.



The fact that I have a set of 235/40 R18s - meaning not staggered, right? - is that bad?
Godamn, I didn't know of this.

Since when I purchased the vehicle which was transported from Germany, it already had a set of italian 235/40 R18s on em.

So I automatically bought 235/40 R18 winter tires.

I think why the rear end has 255 is for more grip, aka more speed, traction, everything.

[Wolf 335]

The seat "click" is a common issue.

I get it too sometimes during hard cornering, and you can even replicate it if you hold on to the wheel tight and try to shift your body in the seat back and forth. It will click.

Nobody knows what to tighten. I can tell you that it's not the rails. It's the mechanism that is attached to the seat itself. There are some threads that mention tightening some nut under but I don't think it was a definite answer.

[Th3Guardian]

Yep, that's pretty much it Wolf. Lately I've been noticing it less but it still is an annoying thing.

[Wolf 335]

Originally Posted by Th3Guardian

Yep, that's pretty much it Wolf. Lately I've been noticing it less but it still is an annoying thing.

Have a look here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=914250

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156389

[GottWhat]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Have a look here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=914250

[N5Four]

dont mean to hijack your thread but I am having a similar issues with my left passenger door.

when I unlock all the doors with the FOB the rear door does not unlock. I have to pull the handle from the inside and it will unlock to let someone in. opens fine once unlocked from inside and out. but once I lock the car I have to pull inside handle to unlock.

[Th3Guardian]

There's something wrong with the mechanism.