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      12-05-2016, 03:56 AM   #1
Snoball M3
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Red face 328i power loss *with video*

Hi, I'm having an issue with my 2008 328i currently has 97xxxx miles, every time I push on tge gas the revs move up slower than normal halfway pedal sometimes it wont downshift until almost to the bottom, this is what I've done so far:

Checked Eccentric sensor for oil
Cleaned MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
Replaced air filter
Did reset adaptions
And just replaced spark plugs not coils


After I replaced spark plugs I rev it up to 1000 rpm and when I let go of the gas it wants to stall around 600 but catches itself...

So now I still have that second hesitation during downshift and a slight idle issue, what else could I look out for? Sorry for the long thread btw....

Last edited by Snoball M3; 12-09-2016 at 07:45 PM.. Reason: Added Video * UPDATE*
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      12-05-2016, 04:37 PM   #2
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Here's a quick video of my problem

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      12-05-2016, 04:48 PM   #3
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Are you still on the original coils? When I had my 328i, what your experiencing was the same thing symptom that I had when I needed to switch out my coils.

Once I changed those, that little stutter went away.
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      12-05-2016, 04:54 PM   #4
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Read the codes with Carly or other bmw specific code scanner.

You're wasting your time until you get this done.
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      12-05-2016, 05:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeddo45 View Post
Are you still on the original coils? When I had my 328i, what your experiencing was the same thing symptom that I had when I needed to switch out my coils.

Once I changed those, that little stutter went away.
Yeah still on original coils, but I've been reading thru the threads and I get confused with other inputs like a bad solenoid or the valvetronic motor. Did you have a hesitation when downshifting?
I know these N52's has a lag normally but mine takes way longer to respond...
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      12-05-2016, 05:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Read the codes with Carly or other bmw specific code scanner.

You're wasting your time until you get this done.
Can they still read whats wrong even without codes being thrown, I've scanned it but no codes shown.

BTW which OBD 2 are you currently using?
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      12-05-2016, 05:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSKY65 View Post
Yeah still on original coils, but I've been reading thru the threads and I get confused with other inputs like a bad solenoid or the valvetronic motor. Did you have a hesitation when downshifting?
I know these N52's has a lag normally but mine takes way longer to respond...
When the coils start going out, I don't think everyone will have the same issue.

I just had to replace the coils on my 335i. This time around, when I needed to merge onto a freeway onramp fairly fast (thanks LA speeders) I had almost no acceleration. Once I got to about 65 mph the car was running fine. I hooked up to Carly and read a misfire. I replaced all of the coils, problem solved.

My 328i started with what you have shown in the video. Then it turned into a nasty rough idle. Different symptoms. If I were you, I would:

1. Probably seriously consider purchasing Carly + OBD adapter. It's one of the best investments you could make for your car.

2. Replace the coils.
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      12-05-2016, 05:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeddo45 View Post
When the coils start going out, I don't think everyone will have the same issue.

I just had to replace the coils on my 335i. This time around, when I needed to merge onto a freeway onramp fairly fast (thanks LA speeders) I had almost no acceleration. Once I got to about 65 mph the car was running fine. I hooked up to Carly and read a misfire. I replaced all of the coils, problem solved.

My 328i started with what you have shown in the video. Then it turned into a nasty rough idle. Different symptoms. If I were you, I would:

1. Probably seriously consider purchasing Carly + OBD adapter. It's one of the best investments you could make for your car.

2. Replace the coils.


Ok I'll get on that, cuz I wasn't having any issues with the idle before I changed the spark plugs as soon as I changed them it started, but I'll update after I install the coils

As far as codes being thrown, there isn't, is it possible for the coil to go out with no code?
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      12-05-2016, 05:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSKY65 View Post
Ok I'll get on that, cuz I wasn't having any issues with the idle before I changed the spark plugs as soon as I changed them it started, but I'll update after I install the coils

As far as codes being thrown, there isn't, is it possible for the coil to go out with no code?
If your in the "premature" stages of a coil going out, there might not be a code. When the coils go out, the service engine soon light doesn't always come on either.

Do you have a BMW scanner? Or are you using a basic scanner from an autoparts store?
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      12-05-2016, 05:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeddo45 View Post
If your in the "premature" stages of a coil going out, there might not be a code. When the coils go out, the service engine soon light doesn't always come on either.

Do you have a BMW scanner? Or are you using a basic scanner from an autoparts store?
Ok good to know. Yeah just a regular one, would the Carly or BMW spec pick up the failure?
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      12-05-2016, 06:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSKY65 View Post
Ok good to know. Yeah just a regular one, would the Carly or BMW spec pick up the failure?
I'm using the Carly one. It does pick up things that don't throw idiot lights, if that's what you're asking. More than likely if your car is noticeably misbehaving there are some codes being stored.

With these cars it's certainly in your best interest to have Carly, Bavarian Technic cable, etc..
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      12-05-2016, 06:36 PM   #12
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How does the car drive with all nannies off?
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      12-05-2016, 06:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
I'm using the Carly one. It does pick up things that don't throw idiot lights, if that's what you're asking. More than likely if your car is noticeably misbehaving there are some codes being stored.

With these cars it's certainly in your best interest to have Carly, Bavarian Technic cable, etc..
Ok thanks a ton guys! Sorry for the many questions first time I start a thread and I'll be investing in one of those ASAP!


Just ordered new coils, I'll be sure to update the outcome
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      12-05-2016, 06:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdavis42 View Post
How does the car drive with all nannies off?
I tried it in DS mode but thats it, but it runs smooth and more responsive the pedal has that heavy feeling, but as soon as I put it in D the hesitation is there again when downshifting and that heavy pedal feeling is gone. But I'll see if the coil replacement will take care of that.
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      12-05-2016, 06:50 PM   #15
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Hope that takes care of it!

Just FYI: I have an 08 328i AT and my idle sits at 550/600 unless I have heat/AC on then its 650/700 according to the dash. When I hook up INPA and read values INPA gives me readings 100 over the dash. I have never been able to figure out what is right but the car runs great. I recently replace coils/plugs and didn't notice a difference but hey as long as the car is consistent I'm alright with it. You look like you have a more serious problem than me though based on your video and down shifts.

Edit: I did have a slight idle hunt going on before the coil/plugs got replaced and that stopped afterwards.
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      12-09-2016, 07:44 PM   #16
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So update on my issue,I received coil pack from amazon, turns out 3 brand coils were bad
Threw me 7 codes and for some reason threw the camshaft positioning sensor too but the code went away. Anyway I still have the same issue after replacing the coils. My 328 is also SULEV I understand there's any emissions warranty on these for 15 years or 150,000 would they charge me for diagnostic?

Heres a code it threw but couldn't find any info on C0300
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      12-12-2016, 01:53 AM   #17
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I had spikes in the RPM to 1000 at idle and it was my eccentric shaft sensor. No Engine light. No oil on sensor. Exhaust sounded like a low tone and softer. Harder to engage the clutch at 1st gear. Low power also. Did you get plausible eccentric shaft sensor code?
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      12-12-2016, 02:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by profenx View Post
I had spikes in the RPM to 1000 at idle and it was my eccentric shaft sensor. No Engine light. No oil on sensor. Exhaust sounded like a low tone and softer. Harder to engage the clutch at 1st gear. Low power also. Did you get plausible eccentric shaft sensor code?
No actually I rev it to 1000 on the video, but after I let it go from there if does issue, like it wants to stall but doesn't and yes I did check the eccentric sensor and no oil buy no codes still. But tomorrow I'll see if they can check it out if not I'll have to get an INPA cable to check cause its getting expensive
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      12-12-2016, 01:27 PM   #19
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How could a 328i lose power if it never had any in the first place?
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