[Watersidef30]

Hi all. I wanted to adjust the Handbrake shoes a little in my F30 as the lever is lifting a little too high now.
I don't know If the cables have stretch or the shoes have worn a bit.

Anyway, checking the procedure, some internet guides make reference to the spring under the Handbrake mechanism saying it has to be pushed back.

I was unable to get access to it without taking console bits apart so continued on and adjusted the star nuts in the hubs in the usual manner without pushing back the spring.

Does anyone know the relevance of this spring?

A few turns on the nuts and the brake is perfect again. So far...

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Watersidef30

Does anyone know the relevance of this spring?

A few turns on the nuts and the brake is perfect again. So far...

Taking the load off the automatic handbrake adjuster, (with the spring hook) is the correct way to set the lever and the hub mechanism, to get the best and proper adjustment for the shoes.

[Watersidef30]

Thanks Pete. Ok, so all things being equal and Turing both nuts the same turns I'm guessing no harm done?

[Blacktemplar]

Anyone else find the F3X handbrake a bit rubbish?

My drive is not even remotely steep, yet on a brand new car I have to forcefully haul the thing to the highest setting to get it to hold without ominous creaking from the wheels. And there seems to be a 'slack' point between taking the foot off the brake pedal and the handbrake biting.

Curiously, my daughter's 2011 1-series coupe is exactly the same...

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Watersidef30

Thanks Pete. Ok, so all things being equal and Turing both nuts the same turns I'm guessing no harm done?

I'm sure you will get away with it, but the correct setting procedure gets the most efficient parking brake. The auto unit and lever position may be slightly compromised.

[Watersidef30]

Yes. Mine was absolutely sh!T. I've been meaning to do it for 6 months. I have a minor sloping drive and it as to be pulled on quite hard.
Another BMW fail.

[recardo]

Did mine at the weekend. How can a brand new car leave the showroom after a PDI and have handbrake thats useless unless yanked vertically.....

Anyway OP - you should be able to lever up the hand brake gaitor and pushback on the cylinder thingy until it clicks - I used a long screw driver - dead easy.

Carefull you dont over do it on adjusting at the rear - keep checking several times a you go. Handbrake still needs a good tug, but not as bad as before. I can only conclude F3X handbrakes are shite. Time for a new car

[Watersidef30]

I did try a long driver in the slot to push it back. Its a bit awkward as console is in the way. It easily compresses back but I couldn't get it to hold or jam or grab or what ever it was supposed to do.
I've had 3 3ers now in a row. All the hand brakes were absolutely cr@p.

I just adjusted it until each wheel started to lock. Then backed off a few notches.

[Flyboy777]

Any idea why BMW persevere with this complicated and inefficient handbrake drum/shoe setup?
Had a Golf with discs all round a few years back, it's handbrake operated directly onto a lever on the rear calipers as did a skoda I worked on. Worked perfectly and none of that slack rollback as the handbrake engaged on a slope. Only difference was needing to rotate the pistons when retracting them when replacing pads.
I never had a seized caliper/snapped bleed nipple which seems to be another BMW 'feature'.

[NISFAN]

I hope you activated the automatic adjustment mechanism by pulling up the handbrake whilst rolling forward. That should be all you need to do.

[Watersidef30]

Doesn't work. drive forward, backwards, pulling it up, driving along, doesn't work.

Adjust the star bolts now it comes up only one or two clicks.

Yesterday it was seven/eight or something stupid. Just a poor design

[Scottiedog]

Originally Posted by NISFAN

I hope you activated the automatic adjustment mechanism by pulling up the handbrake whilst rolling forward. That should be all you need to do.

Iv tried this many times and it works once and then goes back to normal again.

[ronime]

Originally Posted by Blacktemplar

Anyone else find the F3X handbrake a bit rubbish?

My drive is not even remotely steep, yet on a brand new car I have to forcefully haul the thing to the highest setting to get it to hold without ominous creaking from the wheels. And there seems to be a 'slack' point between taking the foot off the brake pedal and the handbrake biting.

Curiously, my daughter's 2011 1-series coupe is exactly the same...

Yep, only had our F30 for a week and surprised at how much you have to yank on the handbrake lever to get reasonable engagement. Overnight the car is parked on our 1-in-3 driveway. Thank goodness for the "P" button on the gear lever.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by NISFAN

I hope you activated the automatic adjustment mechanism by pulling up the handbrake whilst rolling forward. That should be all you need to do.

How does that work with a mechanically adjusted pair of brake shoes?

Are you simply referring to the handbrake lever position, not the actual optimum clearance inside the brake hubs, which require a specific adjustment/setting?

[NISFAN]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

How does that work with a mechanically adjusted pair of brake shoes?

Are you simply referring to the handbrake lever position, not the actual optimum clearance inside the brake hubs, which require a specific adjustment/setting?

In theory, the shoes are correctly adjusted at the factory. The shoes don't wear unless you're doing hand brake turns, so shouldn't need adjusting at the wheels.

It happened on mine that the cable adjuster spring got stuck in the locked position. All I had to do was use a screwdriver to release it. It works well on mine now. If the handbrake has any excess movement, just yank it whilst driving slowly and it's down to 2-3 clicks again.

I have adjusted the shoe settings before when I changed the discs.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by NISFAN

In theory, the shoes are correctly adjusted at the factory. The shoes don't wear unless you're doing hand brake turns, so shouldn't need adjusting at the wheels.

It happened on mine that the cable adjuster spring got stuck in the locked position. All I had to do was use a screwdriver to release it. It works well on mine now. If the handbrake has any excess movement, just yank it whilst driving slowly and it's down to 2-3 clicks again.

I have adjusted the shoe settings before when I changed the discs.

I'm following you now... As you say "in theory", but having lived with this brake shoe mechanism since my first BMW (E12), it is surprising how quickly parking brake performance tails off when there is a bit more than the optimum shoe clearance. It is the reason why many BMW users complain about the poor handbrake. Some of the wear is not use, but lack of use, drums get corroded and shoes wear due to that, more than brake application.

User manuals used to state gently apply the handbrake at slow speed... statements such as:

To avoid corrosion, apply the parking brake lightly from time to time when coasting to a standstill (at a traffic signal, for instance), provided that it is safe to do so.

Your comments on the lever position, that is issues with the automatic cable adjuster (ASZE). The ASZE unit seems to jump out of position. The 'yank' can solve it, but if too frequent or severe needs replacement. I used to have that problem with my E91, sometimes there would be a lot of movement, other times stayed in the 3 - 4 click position for months.

If we want optimum parking brake performance there is no shortcut, shoes may need adjusting, to get the best efficiency.

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by NISFAN

In theory, the shoes are correctly adjusted at the factory. The shoes don't wear unless you're doing hand brake turns, so shouldn't need adjusting at the wheels.

It happened on mine that the cable adjuster spring got stuck in the locked position. All I had to do was use a screwdriver to release it. It works well on mine now. If the handbrake has any excess movement, just yank it whilst driving slowly and it's down to 2-3 clicks again.

I have adjusted the shoe settings before when I changed the discs.

There's a notched adjuster between the shoes - what's the correct adjustment process ?

Adjust from outside, ie with a screwdriver through the backing plate, with the discs fitted ?

Adjust the shoes when they are exposed until the disc top hat will 'just' slide over the top ?

Something else ?

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Watsey

There's a notched adjuster between the shoes - what's the correct adjustment process ?

Adjust from outside, ie with a screwdriver through the backing plate, with the discs fitted ?

Adjust the shoes when they are exposed until the disc top hat will 'just' slide over the top ?

Something else ?

If you know what you are doing you can do it, jacked up with the wheels still on, remove one wheel bolt and turn the wheel to the adjuster position and use a long thin screwdriver through the bolt hole to click the adjuster around.

Most unfamiliar with the mechanism inside, would need the wheels off to get enough light to see the adjuster through the disc hat.

You first prepare the AZSE unit (with the hook in the handbrake adjuster) to get slack on the cables. Essential if you want the brake levers set back to the start position. Then adjust the shoes until brake locks up, then back off a few notches. The amount depends on the model, (my E91 was something like 8 notches). Getting just enough clearance is the key, don't want too much slack. Then unhook the AZSE unit and prove brakes are locking up on about 3 clicks on the lever.

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

If you know what you are doing you can do it, jacked up with the wheels still on, remove one wheel bolt and turn the wheel to the adjuster position and use a long thin screwdriver through the bolt hole to click the adjuster around.

Most unfamiliar with the mechanism inside, would need the wheels off to get enough light to see the adjuster through the disc hat.

You first prepare the AZSE unit (with the hook in the handbrake adjuster) to get slack on the cables. Essential if you want the brake levers set back to the start position. Then adjust the shoes until brake locks up, then back off a few notches. The amount depends on the model, (my E91 was something like 8 notches). Getting just enough clearance is the key, don't want too much slack. Then unhook the AZSE unit and prove brakes are locking up on about 3 clicks on the lever.

Cheers Pete - got it.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

If you know what you are doing you can do it, jacked up with the wheels still on, remove one wheel bolt and turn the wheel to the adjuster position and use a long thin screwdriver through the bolt hole to click the adjuster around.

Most unfamiliar with the mechanism inside, would need the wheels off to get enough light to see the adjuster through the disc hat.

You first prepare the AZSE unit (with the hook in the handbrake adjuster) to get slack on the cables. Essential if you want the brake levers set back to the start position. Then adjust the shoes until brake locks up, then back off a few notches. The amount depends on the model, (my E91 was something like 8 notches). Getting just enough clearance is the key, don't want too much slack. Then unhook the AZSE unit and prove brakes are locking up on about 3 clicks on the lever.

Thanks.

I need to adjust my parking brakes this weekend. I replaced the rotors a few weeks ago with Zimmerman rotors and it feels like the parking brake isn't catching as well as it did before.

[DriveS]

I will be checking / adjusting my handbrake next month. I always take off the disc/hub, blow out the dust and grease the mechanism. I find this makes a difference as more of the force you put into the cable is converted into the pads pressing onto the hub.

[tonirai]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Thanks.

I need to adjust my parking brakes this weekend. I replaced the rotors a few weeks ago with Zimmerman rotors and it feels like the parking brake isn't catching as well as it did before.

Did the adjusting work for you?

I did a brake upgrade on my F20 (standard 300 mm to Msport 345 mm at the back, all with the correct part numbers), also with Zimmerman rotors, and I got more travel and less grip... it doesn't hold on medium to high hills, where it did before.

I think it's due to the brand new contact surface of the rotor, and perhaps a slightly higher inner drum diameter...