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      11-15-2016, 06:22 AM   #1
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Winter storage - Do's and Dont's

Guys,

My M2 is not going to drive much during the winter. I am not putting it on winter wheels, but instead I am buying a MINI GP2 on winter tires. New project car.... Question now is what to do and what not to do when it comes to storing your car for the winter. Any input is welcome.

My intention is to take it out (if the weather allows) once every one or two weeks and take it for a short spin around the block. Additionally, I want to get those holders that protect your wheels from becoming square. I also have a car cover to protect it when it is parked inside the garage.

What else should I do? Lower tire pressures? Where can I get the best anti square wheel holders? Any suggestions? (or whatever these things are called )

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      11-15-2016, 06:24 AM   #2
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Dont drive the GP when it snows the underpan acts like a snowplow
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      11-15-2016, 06:57 AM   #3
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Based on your earlier pictures, I'm assuming garage.

Do the following:
  1. Change the oil
  2. Full tank of gas to prevent water/condensation. Can use a stabilizer/additive here as well
  3. Top off other fluids and make sure the washer fluid is cold weather or drain it. This really only matters if your garage gets cold
  4. You can get those desiccant packets to throw on the inside of the car to prevent moisture (these things: https://www.amazon.com/Gram-Silica-P...XDBFZ3JF4W1BCT)
  5. Battery tender or prepare for the battery to be dead when you fire the car up if you end up not driving it every 2 weeks due to snow/weather/whatever
  6. Car cover
  7. Either the square protection or store the car on jack stands. Tire pressures will be low so have a compressor handy.

If you do take it for a spin, make sure you let everything get up to operating temperature before you store it away again. But if you do have the chance to drive it every week, you'll be fine. I basically only drive mine weekly (wife and I carpool to work) and never have issues.
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      11-15-2016, 07:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackholescion View Post
Do the following:
  1. Change the oil
  2. Full tank of gas to prevent water/condensation. Can use a stabilizer/additive here as well
  3. Top off other fluids and make sure the washer fluid is cold weather or drain it. This really only matters if your garage gets cold
  4. You can get those desiccant packets to throw on the inside of the car to prevent moisture (these things: https://www.amazon.com/Gram-Silica-P...XDBFZ3JF4W1BCT)
  5. Battery tender or prepare for the battery to be dead when you fire the car up if you end up not driving it every 2 weeks due to snow/weather/whatever
  6. Car cover
  7. Either the square protection or store the car on jack stands. Tire pressures will be low so have a compressor handy.
I am also starting to plan for the winter storage, so thanks for this Mine will be in an unheated garage. It won't be lonely, as it will have my 135i and my friend's classic chevy for company.

Any recommendations on fuel stabilizers? Battery tenders? Also, is there a risk of the interior dessicants drying out the leather too much? I am in Canada so likely don't need dehumidification anyway, but am considering it. Maybe will go for it anyway and do some leather treatment just prior to storage.

I have read that the flat spots are not much of an issue on radials with low profiles. I usually just move my car a quarter turn every few weeks through the winter, and have not noticed much bumpiness in the spring. Jacks seems kind of over the top given this.
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      11-15-2016, 07:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluenose-2er View Post
I am also starting to plan for the winter storage, so thanks for this Mine will be in an unheated garage. It won't be lonely, as it will have my 135i and my friend's classic chevy for company.

Any recommendations on fuel stabilizers? Battery tenders? Also, is there a risk of the interior dessicants drying out the leather too much? I am in Canada so likely don't need dehumidification anyway, but am considering it. Maybe will go for it anyway and do some leather treatment just prior to storage.

I have read that the flat spots are not much of an issue on radials with low profiles. I usually just move my car a quarter turn every few weeks through the winter, and have not noticed much bumpiness in the spring. Jacks seems kind of over the top given this.
A lot of answers will come down to preference, specially on the stabilizer. Info below is from when I had my Z4M and stored it at home.

I've never had issue with the leather drying out when keeping silica inside - I usually would keep a few packets up front and a few in the trunk, always in a Tupperware dish since you do not want those beads spilling everywhere. Keep in mind the M2 leather is also coated, so typical leather products don't work.

As for the battery tender, I would recommend something that can do a jump as well, that way you have the best of both worlds in case you need it. Is it bigger and more cumbersome? Sure, but it can be a lifesaver.

If you can rotate the wheels during storage, no need for jacks IMO. If you're going more than say a month without doing it, then I would recommend it.
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      11-15-2016, 07:56 AM   #6
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I use either Sta-Bil or Amsoil. Whichever one I find cheaper that day at my local auto parts store. But as mentioned, it's just preference.
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      11-15-2016, 08:18 AM   #7
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Highly recommend using Sta-Bil or similar product. I had fresh gas in the lawnmower go stale in ~ 1 month this summer and it refused to start. Had to spray some carb cleaner to "jump" it.
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      11-15-2016, 08:21 AM   #8
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I try to avoid taking my Lotus out when there's a risk of salt on the roads, even when the roads are dry. Otherwise you have to spray the underneath to get rid of it. Then it all freezes and the brakes lock.
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      11-15-2016, 08:50 AM   #9
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Car cover: mostly for dust
Battery charger: any AGM compatible would do the job
Fuel tank to max with fuel stabilizer
Tire inflated to 45psi

Oil/filter change in the spring to let sediment rest in the oil pan.

No silicate required if the car is stored in a heated garage.
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      11-15-2016, 04:20 PM   #10
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Not sure mine is heated, but it never goes under zero in that place. It is often warmer in the garage than outside. Also people are driving in and out with cars and stuff. It is a massive place, not a single garage.

In the end, I learnt a lot from your comments. The car will have a service on 7th, and then I will try to drive it once a week minimum. Just through the city, around 14:00/15:00 in the afternoon when the temperatures are above zero and that is about it.

I still need to go to my accountant once a month and my medical specialist, so I can use it for that. For the rest it will not leave my place, and so far I have only taken it out when the weather was brilliant so it is already more than a month clean enough so that the cover can go on.

So by looks of it now, if I keep it static up max 2 weeks it should not be too bad and I do not need to get things like stabilizers, these plates under the wheels, put it on jacks, hang it on a battery charger or fill up the tank.

Although for the future and the summer period when I have two cars, I might think about getting a battery charger connected to the car in the garage, just in case that I am not home for three weeks or so and the car just stands around.

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      11-15-2016, 06:38 PM   #11
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i have been storing cars in several climates (maine & florida) for a few years and have learned a few things.

up north no real need to put on jack stands, but do use flat stoppers if you are not using the jack stands.

battery charger needs to be a 'smart' charger

protect your car from rodents. i use dryer sheets in the engine compartment and passenger cabin. put mothballs on the garage floor as well as lots of mice traps. cover the ends of the exhaust pipes to mouse proof, i use AL foil. on this one i knew i was screwed when i first started a car after taking it out of storage and found mouse $hit about 2 feet behind the exhaust....for about 2 months when the exhaust got warm, it would smell like mouse piss.....

down south, i found that you have to put your car on jack stands. at least when stored in a garage that is not climate controlled. the tires, especially these softer compounds will get flat spots that you will never fully get back out.

i have never used stabilizer in cars that were stored for up to 8 months. i just fill them up prior to storage and have never had an issue. i do use it in small engines that don't get used (lawnmowers/generators).

i wash/wax and dry prior to parking. and generally use a car cover.
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      11-15-2016, 06:51 PM   #12
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Battery charging

For an extended period of time I would recommend a battery tender over a trickle charger. The tender will maintain the proper float voltage and stop charging when it is reached. The trickle charger as the name implies will continually apply current to the battery with the possibility of damaging the battery by overcharging.
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      11-15-2016, 07:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR. View Post
Guys,

.....I am buying a MINI GP2 on winter tires.
MR
Sorry dude can't add anything not already said other than lovin' the GP2 ideal. I just swapped to winters on my GP2 this weekend. You'll love it

Last edited by CommitConfirm; 11-15-2016 at 07:33 PM..
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      11-15-2016, 10:04 PM   #14
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CTEK is the battery tender to buy.
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      11-16-2016, 12:24 PM   #15
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Car cover
Full tank of gas
Battery tender
Max tire pressure
Rodent proof
NO fuel stabilizer
NO engine start until it comes out of hibernation in the Spring
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      11-16-2016, 02:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zedbyers View Post

protect your car from rodents. i use dryer sheets in the engine compartment and passenger cabin. put mothballs on the garage floor as well as lots of mice traps. cover the ends of the exhaust pipes to mouse proof, i use AL foil. on this one i knew i was screwed when i first started a car after taking it out of storage and found mouse $hit about 2 feet behind the exhaust....for about 2 months when the exhaust got warm, it would smell like mouse piss.....

SOLID ADVICE, good post Zedbyers!

Dam mice get into cars that are just Stored overnight D'ooh. Had mice eat wires (oxygen sensor wires) and make nests in cars just sitting for a few days! People put Mint in the Cabin Air filter things to keep the mice out. Mint Tea bags are easiest, can't smell much in the car. I have the same problem with my lawn tractor and my larger front end loader/back hoe tractor. It's a pain. Dam rodents.
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      11-16-2016, 03:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minchy View Post
Dont drive the GP when it snows the underpan acts like a snowplow
Couldn't agree more. It's a blinding motor but its utter rubbish in the snow, I nearly pranged mine a few times. Also, the shockers seized and needed replaced.

I actually really miss mine.

The Gp2 is best enjoyed on a dry day, in my opinion..
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      11-16-2016, 09:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zedbyers View Post
i have been storing cars in several climates (maine & florida) for a few years and have learned a few things.

up north no real need to put on jack stands, but do use flat stoppers if you are not using the jack stands.

battery charger needs to be a 'smart' charger

protect your car from rodents. i use dryer sheets in the engine compartment and passenger cabin. put mothballs on the garage floor as well as lots of mice traps. cover the ends of the exhaust pipes to mouse proof, i use AL foil. on this one i knew i was screwed when i first started a car after taking it out of storage and found mouse $hit about 2 feet behind the exhaust....for about 2 months when the exhaust got warm, it would smell like mouse piss.....

down south, i found that you have to put your car on jack stands. at least when stored in a garage that is not climate controlled. the tires, especially these softer compounds will get flat spots that you will never fully get back out.

i have never used stabilizer in cars that were stored for up to 8 months. i just fill them up prior to storage and have never had an issue. i do use it in small engines that don't get used (lawnmowers/generators).

i wash/wax and dry prior to parking. and generally use a car cover.
did rodents problem occur in FL too? I will be garaging M2 too most of the week once I buy it and I don't know if I need to take preventive action for such an occurrence.
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      11-17-2016, 05:11 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juyeop View Post
did rodents problem occur in FL too? I will be garaging M2 too most of the week once I buy it and I don't know if I need to take preventive action for such an occurrence.
i haven't had any rodent problems in FL and have never protected for it there.
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      11-17-2016, 05:42 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackholescion View Post
Based on your earlier pictures, I'm assuming garage.

Do the following:
  1. Change the oil
  2. Full tank of gas to prevent water/condensation. Can use a stabilizer/additive here as well
  3. Top off other fluids and make sure the washer fluid is cold weather or drain it. This really only matters if your garage gets cold
  4. You can get those desiccant packets to throw on the inside of the car to prevent moisture (these things: https://www.amazon.com/Gram-Silica-P...XDBFZ3JF4W1BCT)
  5. Battery tender or prepare for the battery to be dead when you fire the car up if you end up not driving it every 2 weeks due to snow/weather/whatever
  6. Car cover
  7. Either the square protection or store the car on jack stands. Tire pressures will be low so have a compressor handy.

If you do take it for a spin, make sure you let everything get up to operating temperature before you store it away again. But if you do have the chance to drive it every week, you'll be fine. I basically only drive mine weekly (wife and I carpool to work) and never have issues.
I do all of the above for my 2011 M3, I let it sit all winter and don't start it. I also like the garage floor with plastic sheeting to prevent condensation from building up under the car.
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      11-17-2016, 06:30 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aronis View Post
SOLID ADVICE, good post Zedbyers!

Dam mice get into cars that are just Stored overnight D'ooh. Had mice eat wires (oxygen sensor wires) and make nests in cars just sitting for a few days! People put Mint in the Cabin Air filter things to keep the mice out. Mint Tea bags are easiest, can't smell much in the car. I have the same problem with my lawn tractor and my larger front end loader/back hoe tractor. It's a pain. Dam rodents.
Good points! I had a persistent problem with my Volvo for over a year that stumped the dealership and two local garages with experienced european car mechanics - fuel filler cap loose/open warning. Turned out it was the vent line had been chewed through by a squirrel - hidden way up I the walls of the car. They can get in everywhere!

Fortunately, my garage is quite new and hopefully mostly rodent free for now. But I will be blocking the exhaust.
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      12-06-2016, 06:02 PM   #22
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Reviving this thread as I have a related question... and winter is upon us.

I seem to be finding mixed (i.e. opposing) advice/opinions on whether you should start your car periodically when stored. Some say yeah. Others say (including some in this thread) no way.

I would appreciate further comment on this specific question. I know that if you start it is very important to let it run until up all the way to operating temp - so that you don't leave condensation to settle in various spots. But I am still not clear on the bigger - to run, or not to run - question.

Thoughts?
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