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      09-19-2016, 10:08 PM   #1
boypaulkim
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[QUESTION]keeping interior and exterior clean-budget friendly

Hi guys,

i've just purchased my first bmw, a 230i.
i plan to keep the car as long as possible and as clean as possible.

while i'm hoping to do so, i do not have the budget to shell out too much.

therefore, here's what i plan on doing.

for the interior, i plan on using chemical guys' inner clean interior protector on a regular basis.
link is as follows.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/InnerCle...qMDhoCmvbw_wcB

chemical guys claim that said product is safe to be used on any surface.
i plan on using it on everything from my aluminum hexagon to m-sport steering wheel to my sensatec seats.

for the glass, i plan on using chemical guys' signature glass cleaner.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Signatur...NEZRoCp0bw_wcB

now for the exterior, as much as i would like to cover the car with films such as xpel and etc, the cost is a little problem.

i was looking into glass?/gloss? coating or any other more budget friendly option.
can you guys help me find a suitable product?

another question is about washing the car.

i plan on taking the car to a local handwash which lets the car go through an automated soak/foamer(?) then wiping down the car via-hand. the usual local stuff.
then having the car waxed every 3 or 4 months or so.

would this be a suitable way to keep the car's exterior clean? (aka scratch/swirl mark free?)

any opinion would be appreciated.


thanks.

Last edited by boypaulkim; 09-20-2016 at 06:10 AM..
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      09-20-2016, 11:41 AM   #2
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Scratches and swirl marks come from washing technique. You could have the most expensive wax/sealant in the world and it won't protect against improper washing technique.

If you're only going to wax every 3 or 4 months I'd suggest using an all in one sealer like Klase all-in-one, Wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant or Detail king sts-3000. All of those can be found on amazon. Wax just doesn't last that long. Not any natural wax that I know of at least. Maybe a synthetic will. Regardless, you should seal first then wax or sealant only. I just applied my 6 month interval of PowerLock. I'll wax it in a month and every month after that until the next 6 month mark in March.
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      09-20-2016, 01:16 PM   #3
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One of the longest lasting wax out there (outside of glass/ceramic coating) is Collinite No. 845. That wax can last up to 6 months (real world 6 months; not laboratory). I like to use optimum car wax after every wash while I'm drying. It's a spray on wax that Optimum advertise can last up to 6 months. Realistically it'll probably last 1-2 months but I wash more often than once a month and top up each time, so really, not sure.
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      09-20-2016, 01:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sypher View Post
One of the longest lasting wax out there (outside of glass/ceramic coating) is Collinite No. 845. That wax can last up to 6 months (real world 6 months; not laboratory). I like to use optimum car wax after every wash while I'm drying. It's a spray on wax that Optimum advertise can last up to 6 months. Realistically it'll probably last 1-2 months but I wash more often than once a month and top up each time, so really, not sure.
Do you dry a panel and then apply or do you use the spray while drying a panel like Ammo Hydrate?
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      09-20-2016, 07:44 PM   #5
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Some decent information above. I'll concur about the Collinite insulator wax. Very durable. I just used my Bigfoot and HD Speed on my parent's CR-V and topped it with Collinite instead of my usual HD Poxy. I like to experiment on other people's cars.

As far as your interior, you didn't say if you've got the sensatec or the dakota leather. I would use a good product on a regular basis and keep those seats "hydrated" per se. As bent said, washing technique is very important. Big thing to note. Even though you go through some touchless thing, the chemicals they use are harsh and will have a significant effect on you last step protectant (wax)
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      09-20-2016, 08:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude View Post
Some decent information above. I'll concur about the Collinite insulator wax. Very durable. I just used my Bigfoot and HD Speed on my parent's CR-V and topped it with Collinite instead of my usual HD Poxy. I like to experiment on other people's cars.

As far as your interior, you didn't say if you've got the sensatec or the dakota leather. I would use a good product on a regular basis and keep those seats "hydrated" per se. As bent said, washing technique is very important. Big thing to note. Even though you go through some touchless thing, the chemicals they use are harsh and will have a significant effect on you last step protectant (wax)
i have sensatec seats. does that mean leather conditioner is not needed? or do vinyl seats have to be hydrated as well on a regular basis?
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      09-20-2016, 09:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentZero View Post
Do you dry a panel and then apply or do you use the spray while drying a panel like Ammo Hydrate?
My car drapes water pretty well, so panels have minimal water. I use the spray while I'm drying. If the car is really wet, I would suggest to make an effort to dry the panel first, then spray on.
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      09-20-2016, 09:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sypher View Post
My car drapes water pretty well, so panels have minimal water. I use the spray while I'm drying. If the car is really wet, I would suggest to make an effort to dry the panel first, then spray on.
Tight. My car sheds water like snake skin. Only really wet areas are the roof and hood for obvious reasons. I open the trunk to shed the water off of it. I'll have to give your technique a shot. I've been thinking about using Ammo Hydrate, but that seems to be part of an entire system. It's one I'd like to go to, but then don't want to get locked into one product. I've been thinking about using Kinotech Showroom Shine as well.

I may check out the Colanite after my P21s runs out. I love that stuff, but it's not durable.
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      09-20-2016, 09:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boypaulkim View Post
i have sensatec seats. does that mean leather conditioner is not needed? or do vinyl seats have to be hydrated as well on a regular basis?

You can and still should use a vinyl/leather protectant on them.
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      09-21-2016, 12:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentZero View Post
Tight. My car sheds water like snake skin. Only really wet areas are the roof and hood for obvious reasons. I open the trunk to shed the water off of it. I'll have to give your technique a shot. I've been thinking about using Ammo Hydrate, but that seems to be part of an entire system. It's one I'd like to go to, but then don't want to get locked into one product. I've been thinking about using Kinotech Showroom Shine as well.

I may check out the Colanite after my P21s runs out. I love that stuff, but it's not durable.
Pop the hood and let the excess water run off

A tip for collinite 845, if you're going to use the liquid version, replace the cap it comes with for a spray head. Spray the wax on, wipe on, then move onto the next panel. Once the next panel is done, go back to the previous panel and buff off. The purpose of the spray head is to minimize the product used. If you use too much product, this stuff will be a pain in the ass to remove. Likewise, if you let it sit for too long, it will also be equally hard to remove.
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      09-21-2016, 01:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sypher View Post
Pop the hood and let the excess water run off

A tip for collinite 845, if you're going to use the liquid version, replace the cap it comes with for a spray head. Spray the wax on, wipe on, then move onto the next panel. Once the next panel is done, go back to the previous panel and buff off. The purpose of the spray head is to minimize the product used. If you use too much product, this stuff will be a pain in the ass to remove. Likewise, if you let it sit for too long, it will also be equally hard to remove.
Man, awesome tips. Why did i not think of the hood lol. Especially when I open the trunk haha. Granted, opening the trunk is primarily for drying off the area underneath it.
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      09-22-2016, 09:43 AM   #12
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Yea, I've been popping the hood lately when drying mine also. Easier to get to all the water that collects below the windshield and also dry all the edges of the hood and around the headlights and a quick wipedown of the engine bay. Just be sure to lower your wiper blades if you have them up! I almost made that mistake once.

I need to check out this Collinite stuff. Been using the Power Lock and really like it so far.
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      09-22-2016, 10:06 AM   #13
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Is this the stuff?

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845, 16 Fl Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JK2D06..._Qn.4xb79MPYV3


Looks like a paste almost. How well does it flow through a spray bottle?
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      09-22-2016, 11:01 AM   #14
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That's the stuff! It is pasty when it's cold, but if you shake it up real good and let it sit in a warm water bath for a few mins, it gets thin enough to spray through a spray head. Also, make sure to clear the spray head out well after using it. If the wax dries in there, the spray head is done the next time you try to use it - On you last panel or two, take the spray head out of the bottle and spray the remaining wax inside the tube out. Afterwards, use the spray head with water to rinse out the nozzle. That should be enough to keep it clean for the next time you use it.
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      10-10-2016, 05:19 PM   #15
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Steps you mentioned will be a solid plan.
Also You live in California. That's a plus!
3/4 month waxing will be fine. Are you leasing?

I'd recommend Swissvax Onix with proper paint cleaner (P21s paint cleaner, Zymol HDcleanse, Swissvax cleaner fluid). Do your paint care by hand if you want to be budget friendly and enjoy a nice proper finish.

Budget friendly detailers to use (imho & recommendation) Meguiars Final inspection detailer, or Surf City Garage Hot Rod detailer. Both work great and have been on the market for many years now.
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      10-15-2016, 03:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uptempo80 View Post
Steps you mentioned will be a solid plan.
Also You live in California. That's a plus!
3/4 month waxing will be fine. Are you leasing?

I'd recommend Swissvax Onix with proper paint cleaner (P21s paint cleaner, Zymol HDcleanse, Swissvax cleaner fluid). Do your paint care by hand if you want to be budget friendly and enjoy a nice proper finish.

Budget friendly detailers to use (imho & recommendation) Meguiars Final inspection detailer, or Surf City Garage Hot Rod detailer. Both work great and have been on the market for many years now.
thank you for your response.
i have purchased my car.

i'll most likely take the car to a local carwash for washes/waxing. but will try doing them myself with products you've recommended whenever i get a chance.
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