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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Can this be real?? New turbos shot within a month?
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09-15-2016, 10:29 PM | #5 | |
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What you're describing doesn't sound like failed turbos. It sounds like something on the vacuum side is leaking or solenoids aren't working. There's a good write up for testing the vacuum side. |
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Chris@VargasTurboTech1933.00 |
09-15-2016, 10:34 PM | #6 |
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I actually had my car pressure tested and smoke tested before I actually replaced the turbos. Shop said everything was good and no leaks. But why would the car run fine for a month and a half then all of a sudden take a dump on me again. Charge pipe is intact as well.
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09-16-2016, 12:15 AM | #7 | |
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First, remain calm. I just got back from the gym, got your PM and found this thread. I know car stuff can be stressful but calm minds prevail, always. On to your problem. Let's address wastegate rattle first since it's easy. ALL N54 turbos can rattle if you hold the flapper just off of the housing. That doesn't mean anything bad necessarily. On the original OEM's, over time it meant something bad, because the materials were such that things wore out and the flapper no longer sealed and you couldn't build boost. Your wastegates are brand new and fine. Don't sweat that. All major tunes have the option to reduce wastegate rattle now (both MHD and JB4). Not a problem at all. Now if you had zero rattle and it's all of a sudden rattling like crazy, then I'm going to have you look more at vacuum lines. The bigger problem is your 30FF, which is a classic boost leak code. Boost leaks can be very tricky to track down but the process is the same; pressurize the system and look for leaks. The car ran fine for a while then started acting up because something let go -most likely a small connection leak, diverter valves, or a vacuum line. Or, like was posted above, possibly boost solenoids but I'd check everything else first. There are a million threads on silicone line replacement, diverter valve testing, charge pipe leaks, etc. Boost leaks and vacuum line replacement/testing is a huge part of ANY turbocharged platform troubleshooting. Just take your time, go slow, and post questions here on what steps to take (take pics so we can see what it is you're doing). Logs can help too. As I said in the PM, please email me directly at chris@vargasturbo.com and I can help guide you as you go through the troubleshooting process. We'll get this squared away. Chris |
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09-16-2016, 12:15 AM | #8 |
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could easily be out of adjustment WG's, vacuum leak, etc. My wastegates with 100k miles on them don't rattle after I adjusted them to close at the correct vacuum.
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N54 E90 6AT: 3" Pipes that go down, Thing that cools the inter, PE Mod, DCI, ST XTA, Whiteline bushings, Aodhan, and lotsa corn-juice
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09-16-2016, 12:27 AM | #9 | |
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09-16-2016, 04:54 AM | #10 |
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You getting smoke, doesn't sound like it. You getting any accompanying codes with the 30ff?
As stated, it's the inherent nature of internal wastegates to rattle, just need to deal with it or as Chris said, use your tune to leave the gates slightly more open. |
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09-16-2016, 11:01 PM | #13 |
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I emailed pbforlife254 and gave some basic troubleshooting directions for him to start. As of this moment, he hasn't done any troubleshooting yet -just experienced the rattle and code pop up. I gave him enough to get him pointed in the right direction but since he has the car, he's going to have to do some homework. Luckily there are many threads on basics like how to to a boost leak check, how to replace vacuum lines, etc. We'll get to the bottom of this and drive it to resolution.
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bpdef2990.00 terryd5150507.00 |
09-18-2016, 04:29 PM | #14 |
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Well got around to the car today. Check out all vacuum lines, purchased and replaced boost solenoids, checked charge pipe and dvs. After all that still 30ff. I can floor it in 3rd gear and feel like I absolutely go no where.
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09-18-2016, 04:46 PM | #15 |
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Iv heard of things like this happening before where turbos have been replaced and then going again soon after. What people over look sometimes is why did the original turbos pack up, oil feed block is one of the common ones and if you have the turbos changed and don't fix the cause of what made them go in the first place then it will only happen again.
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09-18-2016, 05:42 PM | #18 |
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Trying to help him narrow this down currently. He has no means of logging at the moment, which makes things more difficult, and is throwing a host of codes. See attached.
I'm advising him to make sure his battery is good, clear codes, see what comes back under gentle driving, take a log including target vs actual on boost so we can see what's up, but for actions I'm advising him to check/replace vacuum lines, and do a proper pressure test of the system. Car is a 2007 with 100k on it. I believe he just replaced the boost solenoids. Chris |
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