[Jmore92]

How's it going guys. Long story short I have a 08 335i sedan. Car ran fine when I purchased. Shortly after I installed a vrsf intercooler and charge pipe along with some dci's. Again car ran perfectly fine for about a month after having installed the parts. After that the p30ff code started showing up. And til this day I can't seem to get rid of it.

The car drives perfectly fine , only issue is when you give it WOT. And at high rpm the code will trigger. But. There have been days were the car is noticeably stronger and feels like it should and the code won't trigger for about 2-3 pulls. After that the loss of power is felt and the code comes on again.

I have checked the charge pipe o ring and looks fine. I have checked a few vacuum lines that I can see with the valve cover off and the air pumps aswell. And all the clamps on my intercooler looks good. All that looks good to me. Nothing that's obvious enough to the point where I can spot it out.

I recently flashed a Cobb oft stage 1+ drive map. Suppose to be at 11 psi max. Car reads 13-15???

I have replaced the diverter valves and boost solenoids thinking they were the problem and nothing has changed.

What else should I look at? I can't stand it anymore. Can't enjoy the track or even have much power on the streets .

Lmk
Thanks

[TrollToll]

There's no magic answer with 30FF, but there are hundreds of threads to read. Just try everything mentioned and eventually you'll get it fixed. There are so many causes it's impossible for someone here to tell you where to look.

[Donutz]

The over boost its likely a reading when the throttle body closes (when you lift off throttle) and before the dv soak up the pressure. I run stage 1 sport and see 15 max psi regularly. On throttle I don't recall seeing over 12 psi.

[Adambomb335]

I get the same thing in my 07. Very random.

[nilesd22]

Hey man, I know you said you checked a few lines... but I had the same problem on my 08 e92. All forums mentioned a million things, after getting bored one day just checking everything carefully, I found the rear vacuum line to the turbo was pinched in the clip on side of valve cover. I unclipped it and never had the problem again. It was pinched under the line cover so I couldn't see it but could feel where it was weak at. Try that you have time just unclip them, I think it's like three clips. And I also cleaned the vacuum solenoid filters just because I was over there.

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by nilesd22

Hey man, I know you said you checked a few lines... but I had the same problem on my 08 e92. All forums mentioned a million things, after getting bored one day just checking everything carefully, I found the rear vacuum line to the turbo was pinched in the clip on side of valve cover. I unclipped it and never had the problem again. It was pinched under the line cover so I couldn't see it but could feel where it was weak at. Try that you have time just unclip them, I think it's like three clips. And I also cleaned the vacuum solenoid filters just because I was over there.

What filters are you talking about?

[nilesd22]

If you pull the solenoids out, you can pop off the black square box on top of them to wipe off the filter. I got the tip from another post on here a while ago some guy suggested it.

[blackturbo]

Originally Posted by nilesd22

If you pull the solenoids out, you can pop off the black square box on top of them to wipe off the filter. I got the tip from another post on here a while ago some guy suggested it.

Wish I saw this before I bought new solenoids... Shit lol

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by nilesd22

If you pull the solenoids out, you can pop off the black square box on top of them to wipe off the filter. I got the tip from another post on here a while ago some guy suggested it.

That's interesting. I wonder if it makes any difference. I would guess that the filter is only used when the solenoid opens and releases vacuum, meaning that a clogged filter would just slow down the time it takes to bleed vacuum and not affect the time to accumulate vacuum. It's worth a try though.

[Jmore92]

Update: I can definitely hear waste gate rattle. Some days more than others and sometimes not at all.

Iits normally been high 90s up to 107, so pretty hot. But at times when it's actually cool at certain times high 70s low 80s usually at night or very early morning . The car seems to run perfectly fine and pull pretty hard almost , Almost like it's been "fixed"

Now obviously cold weather makes more power. But it's a dramatic difference.And I could multiple pulls without an error code ?

What exactly does this mean? I'm confident that it's a vacuum line , as I replaced my cloth covered line that goes from the right of the throttle body to the diverter valves as it felt like it collapsed in the inside.

I wana say it's gota be the same type of line ,cloth covered but connected to the actual wastegates. I cannot for the life of me even see how I can get to these lines?

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by Jmore92

Update: I can definitely hear waste gate rattle. Some days more than others and sometimes not at all.

Iits normally been high 90s up to 107, so pretty hot. But at times when it's actually cool at certain times high 70s low 80s usually at night or very early morning . The car seems to run perfectly fine and pull pretty hard almost , Almost like it's been "fixed"

Now obviously cold weather makes more power. But it's a dramatic difference.And I could multiple pulls without an error code ?

What exactly does this mean? I'm confident that it's a vacuum line , as I replaced my cloth covered line that goes from the right of the throttle body to the diverter valves as it felt like it collapsed in the inside.

I wana say it's gota be the same type of line ,cloth covered but connected to the actual wastegates. I cannot for the life of me even see how I can get to these lines?

That vacuum line from the intake manifold to the diverter valves is the only line that WON'T cause a 30FF. You'll have to replace all the rest (behind the oil filter housing all the way to the wastegates), and hope that's all that's wrong. It very possible that you have a boost leak(s) or severely worn wastegates.

[Jmore92]

Could software/tune be a probable cause aswell? I'm on a Cobb ots map atm. Many I should unmarried the device and drive it stock to see what happens

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by Jmore92

Could software/tune be a probable cause aswell? I'm on a Cobb ots map atm. Many I should unmarried the device and drive it stock to see what happens

No,. It isn't the cause, but it will make problems more apparent.

[A13E92]

Double check the lines that go behind the oil filter. I too thought they looked fine, butu mine were messed up there and wasn't obvious until I took them off the car. Use a razor blade to get the lines off the connections so you don't break anything.

[Jmore92]

What's factory vacuum at idle? I'm seeing 8.8 ? Is this to low?

Also switched maps, also noticed a difference in speeds of uploading with my new battery

Update: new map still seeing p30ff code

I was under the impression that factory vacuum should be 15-20psi??

[Jmore92]

How do I get to my wastegates? I see now way to get my hands on the vaccum lines or even see them

[maaaaackle]

Originally Posted by Jmore92

How do I get to my wastegates? I see now way to get my hands on the vaccum lines or even see them

The rear turbo can be accessed from the top though its kind of a tight squeeze.

The front turbo can't be accessed unless you go under the car and do some work.

[AZEgg3]

8.8 is too low, you should be closer to 20" depending on where you measure at. You can take off the vacuum lines at the solenoids that go to the wastegate actuators and use a hand vacuum pump to test, the rear is easy to see but the front is a little more difficult. If you take off the vacuum canisters you can look between some of the piping and see the front actuator arm, and see if it moves when you test.

[Jmore92]

Update: I replace all my vaccum lines to the wastegates, pumps, etc. Car is still seeing -8 psi I'm vacuum.

I uninstalled my Cobb back to the stock map snd the car pulls great with NO codes!! Did multiple runs to 80-90 which is usually when the code hits. But to my luck it was solid with no codes.

I installed the Cobb again. Car pulls great 1-3 gear. But in again at 80ish the p30ff comes back in??

Is it something to do with the tune?

Or is it my turbos that can't maintain higher than stock boost pressure?

Its weird because the car pulls hard all the way up to 80-90 ,then it would hit that code.

Am I missing other vaccum lines? Do they vacuum lines running to the diverter valves have an effect? What about the vaccum line that runs to the muffler flap?

And ideas I'm a little lost. But am some what glad it runs great on stock map

Or am I using the wrong ecu flash? Hit me with some ideas!!

Thanks

[Monster335]

check the valve cover see if its cracked

[Donutz]

If you have the stock charge pipe, try reinstalling it and see if you still have the same results.

Check the vacuum canisters to see if one is bad (I believe there is a thread or post on how to pressure test them).

Lastly, I would reinstall the stock fmic and see if that fixes the issue. As much as it sucks, I'd start putting stock parts back on one at a time, testing after each is reinstalled.