[Shadow007]

What's going on everybody? I've been contemplating for some time now on either going with the MMP stage 3 turbo route, which has recently had some mechanical defects, or the JP Workz ST. With all the You Tube videos I've watched and my first hand experience, in a single converted 335i, I'm sold! :happy I've finally decided to do the big single with either a 6266 or 6466, but that's more to follow. I have a few questions before I do make my purchase.
What are some of the common issues faced with a single conversion? What is an average cost to get the kit installed? Is there any additional precautionary equipment I would need in order for a safe install/ safe guard any known issues? Lastly what housing should I use and what is the difference in each i.e .63 A/R, .85 A/R, etc? From what I've come up with it seems that a single kit has a one point failure, the turbo, compared to the hybrids. I know there has to be more than that, but I haven't found anything else. I've had my fair share of smokey hybrids and if one went bad then the other is bound to follow. In the event that the turbo went bad, I could easily pop that one off and put a new one on compared to the hybrid setup. Thanks!

[CLRBLND]

Single turbos are really easy to work on, and as long as it's a quality turbo you shouldn't have many issues(or any)

[whosdady]

I think the actual turbos are more reliable in the single turbo kits, and they are much easier to switch out... But the singles have their fair share of problems.

I have seen melted engine covers, valve covers and A/C lines. There has been a lot of o2 sensor issues as well. Not to mention over all fitment issues. (But most of the kits have worked this problem out) Make sure to use heat wrap, heat tape or ceramic coating.

[Grand_hustle17]

Supposedly jpworks kit needs fabrication to work. From what i was told they never quite run right neither.

[MM Performance]

The MMP stage 3 just had a weld on the first batch that welds the nut onto the bearing housing that was a little thin. All stock has been corrected now and won't be an issue going forward.

[csu87]

Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17

Supposedly jpworks kit needs fabrication to work. From what i was told they never quite run right neither.

new manifold design has fixed fitment issues.

And not sure who told you they dont run right... They have been doing very well in terms of performance.

OP, the biggest issue right now, which is an issue for every single, is the O2 sensors. Do some research on that before you move forward. I believe a solution is in the works or out now for them.

[1BADM3]

Originally Posted by csu87

new manifold design has fixed fitment issues.

And not sure who told you they dont run right... They have been doing very well in terms of performance.

OP, the biggest issue right now, which is an issue for every single, is the O2 sensors. Do some research on that before you move forward. I believe a solution is in the works or out now for them.

+1 How could a single not run right lol. Mine is running fine and will out beat any twin turbo setup anyday I am at about 712whp daily.

[Shadow007]

Originally Posted by csu87

new manifold design has fixed fitment issues.

And not sure who told you they dont run right... They have been doing very well in terms of performance.

OP, the biggest issue right now, which is an issue for every single, is the O2 sensors. Do some research on that before you move forward. I believe a solution is in the works or out now for them.

I will before I make the jump. I'm still researching and trying to find the common issues people are having and the solutions to fix it. I read that I would need to get new wide band o2 sensors, once I make the switch. If that's the case what is the issue with the OEM sensors? Also where can I find them if that's the case? Lastly what is the common turbine housing people are using for the Precision 6266 journal bearing TD04 divided .84, 1.0, or 1.15?

[csu87]

Originally Posted by Shadow007

I will before I make the jump. I'm still researching and trying to find the common issues people are having and the solutions to fix it. I read that I would need to get new wide band o2 sensors, once I make the switch. If that's the case what is the issue with the OEM sensors? Also where can I find them if that's the case? Lastly what is the common turbine housing people are using for the Precision 6266 journal bearing TD04 divided .84, 1.0, or 1.15?

the other forums have the o2 sensor solutions. The issue is the OEM ones burn up.

Theres a lot of info on the more technical forums.

[LQQKOUT]

I was in the same boat and decided to go MMP S3. The reason I decided against the ST was the lack of connection between the downpipe and stock style exhaust with the JPW kit and the lack of boost control using flash only without going JB4.

[Shadow007]

Originally Posted by LQQKOUT

I was in the same boat and decided to go MMP S3. The reason I decided against the ST was the lack of connection between the downpipe and stock style exhaust with the JPW kit and the lack of boost control using flash only without going JB4.

Hmm I have a 3 in exhasut from the cats all the way back and I'm using jb4 with a BEF. I'll switch to,mhd once I do make the switch.

[1BADM3]

Originally Posted by LQQKOUT

I was in the same boat and decided to go MMP S3. The reason I decided against the ST was the lack of connection between the downpipe and stock style exhaust with the JPW kit and the lack of boost control using flash only without going JB4.

You do not need a JB4 to control boost with a single turbo. There are alot of guys running MHD flash with a electric boost controller.

[LQQKOUT]

So the DME is not controlling boost, you still need a standalone boost controller?
The ST does look bad-ass, but I went for what I thought would be the best option for me. The power should be similar but come on sooner in the RPM range.

[JTswole83]

Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17

Supposedly jpworks kit needs fabrication to work. From what i was told they never quite run right neither.

Not sure where you get your info. Mine runs flawless, without a hiccup.

[JTswole83]

Originally Posted by LQQKOUT

So the DME is not controlling boost, you still need a standalone boost controller?
The ST does look bad-ass, but I went for what I thought would be the best option for me. The power should be similar but come on sooner in the RPM range.

You use an EBC to control boost if you are flash only.

[Grand_hustle17]

Originally Posted by JTswole83

Not sure where you get your info. Mine runs flawless, without a hiccup.

No o2 sensor known issue or absoltely no modification was needed?.

[csu87]

Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17

No o2 sensor known issue or absoltely no modification was needed?.

all singles have o2 issues...

[JTswole83]

Yes, we all have the issues. I clear the SES when I start it and it's good to go.

[BusaR8]

Amazing I might switch to EBC.

[1BADM3]

Originally Posted by Shadow007

I will before I make the jump. I'm still researching and trying to find the common issues people are having and the solutions to fix it. I read that I would need to get new wide band o2 sensors, once I make the switch. If that's the case what is the issue with the OEM sensors? Also where can I find them if that's the case? Lastly what is the common turbine housing people are using for the Precision 6266 journal bearing TD04 divided .84, 1.0, or 1.15?

Go with 1.0 or 1.15, .84 is too small.

[JTswole83]

Definitely get the larger AR. This car needs it.