[james4321]

Gentlemen,
today I noticed something that worries me.
Symptoms:
Interrupting during acceleration, but only for 4th gear, and only when you press the gas pedal to the end.
At any other gears I not noticed this. Only 4th.
Six months ago, once appeared error "engine misfire", and not returned ever more.
Engine start without problems. Power is as usual. Drivin and everything is normal, except for this one thing.
Surely this has nothing to do, but for the last 140 days, the engine was not turned on at all, and well before it occurred, but less frequently. After 140 days, I went to the garage, I put the key in and turned as if yesterday was ridden.
Sorry for my English, please suggestions.
I have an appointment to the dealer at the end of next week, this time I do not know if I can ride. I'm afraid that nothing bad happened.
I think that does not show any errors.
Thank you for your help!

[CanadianTSi]

Just a misfire. I would start with new plugs and if the car throws a code you can see exactly which cylinder and chances are that coil is going bad, you could replace just that cylinder or all of them. Up to you.

[james4321]

Thank you very much for your answer. Already I said, lest I exchanged the spark plugs and coils. On Monday will be done.

[Wolf 335]

Considering that your misfire is happening in 4th gear under load, my guess is that one of the injectors is having a hard time keeping up.

While changing plugs and coils observe for any oil accumulation around the plugs area. It will be a clear indicator of a leaking valve cover gasket. This scenario could generate misfires at start up but not necessarily after the car has warmed up.

But whenever it comes to misfires, start with plugs, followed by coils, and then injectors.

When you had the misfire code you should have checked what cylinder it was on and exchanged that cylinder's coil with the one that wasn't misfiring. This way you can see if misfire moves to the new cylinder which would indicate a faulty coil. If it remains at the original cylinder then it's either a spark plug or injector.

Have the car scanned with a professional bmw tool and not one of those generic odb scanners. The code is most likely still stored and you will be able to act accordingly.

Cheers

[wren57]

I too think it's a fueling issue. So it sat for 140 days then you ran with that old fuel? I'm guessing there's some condensation (water) in the tank and when you're stressing the fueling at the top of 4th it is running out of capacity.

Fill up with high quality gas and see what happens.

[james4321]

Is it possible to easily diagnose, if there are no errors, what makes misfire - is the spark plugs, coil or injector?
And, can I use my car for that time, until they diagnose my 335i?
Nothing worse can happen?
Thanks a lot for helping me.

(PS. Do You know what is INPA interface, guys?
My car was diagnosed by that inpa, and every injector was 'like new'. Worked very well.)

[wren57]

Yes it is easy to diagnose. Yes you can drive it. Fill up with good gasoline.

[Wolf 335]

If you are willing to spend money at the dealership, they have the capability of diagnosing your fuel injection system with an oscilloscope. This way you can be 100% certain which component is starting to fail.

This is a snap shop of what they would look for under the diagnosis:

[james4321]

Thank you very much friends for their help and interest.
I'll tell them, lest they checked oscilloscope. I do not want to exchange parts, not sure which does not work properly.

ps. Is 230F is a good temperature of the oil in our cars?
I mean normal driving, because in the city, or the stronger driving reaches 240F no more. On the outside temperature is around 75F. I have oil cooler.
So, if the temperature of 230-240F is ok?

[Wolf 335]

Originally Posted by james4321

Thank you very much friends for their help and interest.
I'll tell them, lest they checked oscilloscope. I do not want to exchange parts, not sure which does not work properly.

ps. Is 230F is a good temperature of the oil in our cars?
I mean normal driving, because in the city, or the stronger driving reaches 240F no more. On the outside temperature is around 75F. I have at home radiators oil.
So, if the temperature of 230-240F is ok?

That oil temperature is ok. It will fluctuate based on oil you use, outside temperature, and driving style.

If you notice that the oil is under 210F (100C) and is not reaching normal operating temperatures after driving for a while, then you may have an oil cooler thermostat stuck open or oil level sensor may be bad.

[james4321]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

That oil temperature is ok. It will fluctuate based on oil you use, outside temperature, and driving style.

If you notice that the oil is under 210F (100C) and is not reaching normal operating temperatures after driving for a while, then you may have an oil cooler thermostat stuck open or oil level sensor may be bad.

Okay, going back to misfire, I have to tell them on Monday to checked oscilloscope and all will know?
Which cylinder injector, spark plug or coil?
Today I noticed that in 5th gear and 6th gear also occur these symptoms, but only under completely, press the pedal.

[CanadianTSi]

Originally Posted by james4321

Today I noticed that in 5th gear and 6th gear also occur these symptoms, but only under completely, press the pedal.

Higher gears put more load on the motor and more strain on the ignition therefore exposing the weak coil or spark plug.

[wren57]

You shouldn't be flooring it in 5th or 6th without downshifting. That will lug the engine. Before you spend a lot of money, fill up with good gas and see what happens. I don't know how many times I have to say it.

[james4321]

Originally Posted by wren57

You shouldn't be flooring it in 5th or 6th without downshifting. That will lug the engine. Before you spend a lot of money, fill up with good gas and see what happens. I don't know how many times I have to say it.

Before a stopover car (before the 140 days), it happened the same, and I had a new, super fuel. I didn't flooring on 5 and 6, I was just tested my car.


CanadianTSi:
You're sure it's the spark plug or coil?
I do not know if I ask service of diagnosis, or tell them to exchange the spark plugs and coils.
Spark plugs and coils - about $ 1,000 in my country.

[CanadianTSi]

Well spark plugs are the cheapest place to start and should be done periodically anyways.

[james4321]

Hello gentlemen.
I changed the spark plugs, coil and high voltage cables. There is not changed. All the time in high gears is interrupted during acceleration. But there is a plus. He jumped me an error when I tested the car 'engine malfunction', and the computer showed "error charging air '. I do not know what it might be caused. It occurs me wastegate Rattle. Is this may be the reason?
Or maybe inlet channels? - Did they may cause this behavior when accelerating?
I have enough.
I drove on the road with my girlfriend and even she panicked when in 5th gear ahead of another car and the car started to twitch.
Please help. The mechanics break down hands. They tell me to exchange the turbine, but do not give a guarantee that it will help ...

ps. And while the 335i and was in the 'engine malfunction' I tried to accelerate and accelerate well. It did not interrupt anything, were traveling smoothly.
Can you me a hint what happens during the 'engine malfunction'? Cuts off the turbine? Anything else? Limits the dose of fuel?

[Wolf 335]

When you get engine malfunction what codes do you get?

[james4321]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

When you get engine malfunction what codes do you get?

I do not know exactly what was the error code. But something of the air of overloading, either as a small amount of air. I do not remember exactly. In any case, something with air.

[mxchris727]

I recently washed my engine bay with the plastic cover off and shorted the injectors. The car starting acting like yours, occasional misfires under load. I had "injector internal short" codes, as well as lean air mixture codes. 6 new fuel injectors later, and the engine is perfect again.

[james4321]

Originally Posted by mxchris727

I recently washed my engine bay with the plastic cover off and shorted the injectors. The car starting acting like yours, occasional misfires under load. I had "injector internal short" codes, as well as lean air mixture codes. 6 new fuel injectors later, and the engine is perfect again.

I had never mistakes and problems with injectors. Live data via INPA shows that the injectors are great.
When thrown 'engine malfunction' car behaved normally, but with less power. Nothing tugging, do not interrupt when WOT. The cause must be something that has been cut off or reduced the error engine malfunction. Certainly cut off the turbine. But I do not know if something else. I'm trying to fix, but nobody is able to tell me, or something outside the turbine is reduced / cut during this error.

[musa]

Originally Posted by james4321

I do not know exactly what was the error code. But something of the air of overloading, either as a small amount of air. I do not remember exactly. In any case, something with air.

James, it's important to capture the error codes so that you can be helped better. You can take pictures with your phone camera to keep a record of the errors.

[james4321]

Originally Posted by musa

James, it's important to capture the error codes so that you can be helped better. You can take pictures with your phone camera to keep a record of the errors.

It is heavy to do. Because this error appeared once and never again returned. My mechanic already pulls turbine feed of what was happening. Error clearly related to air charging.