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      03-10-2016, 09:01 AM   #1
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2006 325xi dead battery. Cranks. No start *FIXED*

Hi guys,

I'm an e46 guy who tried to convert to an e90 on a budget.
Anyhow to the issue. I bought a 2006 325xi automatic with 186,000 miles. Owner said the car wouldn't start one morning in December and he hasn't touched or moved it since. It passed the emissions on December 1st so before this happened it had no check engine lights present. Bought the car as-is figuring it couldn't be so difficult as it was running and driving before he parked it the previous night.
Currently battery is beyond dead as its been sitting for nearly 4 months in the winter.
Towed the car home. Tried to jump start it. Everything works inside and outside electrically. Except the car will not fire. It will turn over but won't run. It will sputter and then just keep spinning. I bought gas to be on the safe side.

Any thoughts or ideas are welcomed before I burn up another tow to the Indy shop.
Thanks in advance

Last edited by GTA_G20; 03-30-2016 at 10:26 PM.. Reason: repaired
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      03-10-2016, 12:11 PM   #2
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IBS could be blocking the start.

IBS could be blocking the start.

These cars are hard to start with just a jump .
Battery could be sucking down the voltage did you
put a full charge on it?
1) The Ibs system will keep the car from starting .
2) If you change the battery there is a lot of stuff
to plug back in right on the battery distribution block and
there is a shipping cable that is not suppose to be plugged
in that will also stop it from starting.
3)starter is bad
4)ground strap to engine is bad.
Do not use battery back up if changing the battery it blows
the instrument panel fuse. And doesn't back anything up
anyway.

Try disconnecting the ibs cable at the battery to see if it
will start.

electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU

6 years is the average life on these battery's if the car is driven
enough to keep them charged. The e90 is a battery hog much
more than a e46.

Last edited by ctuna; 03-10-2016 at 12:23 PM..
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      03-10-2016, 12:36 PM   #3
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Thanks for replying.

1) I'll search more on IBS now

2) I just disconnected the battery which is completely dead. I lifted the electrical block ontop of the battery. I cannot however life the battery out without breaking something so I stopped will tackle it again later.
I noticed the shipping cable which I was wondering if the reason it wasnt starting was because this plug was not connected lol

3) The starter is good. The engine rotates and it cycles but it just wont fire. Im thinking its fuel related because everything else is working off a boost

4) Just gonna do the battery first and see what happens

Just found out its not an OEM battery its a NAPA branded battery
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      03-10-2016, 02:19 PM   #4
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I'm sure you found it, but just in case - there is a battery lockdown bolt on the taillight side of the battery and a wedge piece at the bottom that will need removed to retrieve the battery.
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      03-10-2016, 02:56 PM   #5
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There are many battery changing DIY's

There are many battery changing DIY's
Better look them up and read them as BMW has made
changing battery's a big task with lost of gotchas.

The ibs is described in the first electrical pdf I posted.

There are many sub forums here including a DIY and maintenance sub
forum. Also there are a lot of DIY's on ytube.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16
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      03-14-2016, 01:17 PM   #6
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New battery installed, IBS cable attached and removed and the car just cranks and cranks.

I would think it is a crank position sensor issue. But with this car Im sure its some other kind of electrical programming needed
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      03-14-2016, 02:03 PM   #7
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DDE and EWS?
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      03-14-2016, 08:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTA_G20
DDE and EWS?
At this point I would do a fuel pressure check. Can you hear the fuel pump priming? If so I would do a pressure check to make sure the pump is putting out enough pressure, and the engine is getting adequate fuel.
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      03-14-2016, 10:21 PM   #9
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cannot hear the fuel pump. Gonna purchase a Kcan cable and stop messing around
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      03-15-2016, 08:33 AM   #10
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Battery should be good if you say it turns over and sputters, 3 things needed to ignite, air, fuel and spark. Air filter should be easy to check, also pull the coils and make sure the spark plugs are not covered in oil, If the valve cover gasket is leaking onto the spark plugs they wont provide a spark, just a few easy checks before you tackle the fuel system
Good Luck!
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      03-17-2016, 08:08 PM   #11
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Ctuna. You were bang on.

Jbbf.. A6FC 9C69
MRS.. 93C3
DME.. 2E8C
DEC. . 5F12
Pulled these codes
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      03-17-2016, 09:12 PM   #12
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Which software did you get ?

Which software did you get ?
ista d is the easiest as it gives you a direct
interpretation and suggested troubleshooting procedure.

Inpa is good if you know what your are doing with it.

See coding sub forum.
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      03-18-2016, 09:06 AM   #13
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Had someone come and help me pull the codes.

ISTA was used as we couldnt understand INPA

Tried again this morning after removing and reinstalling the negative battery cable and pulled more DME codes

2E8C
2CF9
2CFA
2D1D
2D09
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      03-18-2016, 12:13 PM   #14
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What's the battery voltage did you clear and rerun

What's the battery voltage did you clear and rerun
Without the description or a working copy of ista to lookd
them up its kind of hard to know what they are.
Are you sure some of those aren't shadow codes which say
clear but not present now. There are some codes generated
by a battery disconnection as well. The the reason for clear and
rerun though I would print out a copy of what is says before
clearing.
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      03-21-2016, 01:28 PM   #15
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Battery voltage after a few failed attempted starts is 11.7 volts
I unplugged the skinny IBS sensor plug and no change

pulled codes are

JBBF
A6CF - air circulation sensor on radiator
9C69 - rear cabin heat conrtol. (removed due to broken fins)


MRS
93C3 - passenger seat occupancy/srs sensor


DME
2E8C - intelligent battery sensor, function
2CF9 - Throttle-valve potentiometer 1
2CFA - Throttle-valve potentiometer 2
2D1D - accelerator pedal module, pedal sensor 1, voltage suppy
2D09 - Throttle valve


DSC
5F12 - front brake pad wear
94BB - steering angle sensor internal fault
C998 - wheel tolerance control failure/Insignificant SZL fault
5EBA - steering angle sensor
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      03-21-2016, 01:49 PM   #16
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The only thing that would stop it from starting

The only thing that would stop it from starting that's
related is the DME codes. How far does the battery voltage
drop when you try to start it.
11.7 is not a very healthy battery voltage if the battery is more
than 6 years old or has been abused by lack of use you are due
for one.
Some of the other codes might go away with a healthy battery.
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      03-21-2016, 01:53 PM   #17
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I'll get an OEM battery

thanks
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      03-21-2016, 06:22 PM   #18
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If its the orignal its got to go.

If its the orignal its got to go.
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      03-21-2016, 08:33 PM   #19
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No its a Napa International, had it tested looks new and shop said it was good
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      03-21-2016, 10:37 PM   #20
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Shouldn't matter if its OEM or not

Shouldn't matter if its OEM or not
it just needs to be the right size and type . You should be seeing
12.4 to 12.6 volts if the motor is not running and you should
see about 14.5 with the motor running . And if it sets overnight
the static voltage (12.4 to12.6)shouldn't drop very much .
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      03-22-2016, 08:20 AM   #21
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It was at 12.4 volts but after cranking on it quite a few times voltage did drop off some
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      03-22-2016, 10:27 AM   #22
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Then its probably OK

Then its probably OK
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