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      10-18-2015, 11:22 PM   #1
Project Elite
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Prepping F30 for track

F30 328i N26
Injen Intake
Active 8 tune
ER cat less downpipe
H&R Super Sport Spring
Enkei Raijin 19x8.5

To-Do:
Brembo BBK
Brake pads
Tires
Brake fluid
ER Charge pipe

Last edited by Project Elite; 12-25-2015 at 02:03 AM..
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      10-19-2015, 09:29 AM   #2
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Yea, it can do it! I have been on 5 track days so far in my n20 328. I use Bridgestone Re-11's (Not the re11-a) and the stock wheels (Style 397 sportline) Running a 245 40 18 all around (yes the tires fit on the stock wheels (18x8) And with sport springs! The 328 is better on the track than the 335 because it is not as nose heavy! (so I have been told) Good luck!!! OH and you might want to invest in a chargepipe:

http://www.burgertuning.com/N20_N26_BMW_Chargepipe.html
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      10-19-2015, 10:42 AM   #3
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The single most important thing, besides a car that has been properly teched, is good brake fluid. With a heavier car like a BMW sedan, I recommend at least RBF 660.

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      11-08-2015, 11:38 PM   #4
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Does the chargepipe make a noticeable difference?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerMcCraw View Post
Yea, it can do it! I have been on 5 track days so far in my n20 328. I use Bridgestone Re-11's (Not the re11-a) and the stock wheels (Style 397 sportline) Running a 245 40 18 all around (yes the tires fit on the stock wheels (18x8) And with sport springs! The 328 is better on the track than the 335 because it is not as nose heavy! (so I have been told) Good luck!!! OH and you might want to invest in a chargepipe:

http://www.burgertuning.com/N20_N26_BMW_Chargepipe.html
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      11-09-2015, 01:31 PM   #5
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Somewhat of an obvious point but I think swapping out the stock RFT is a good starting point. They get greasy quite quickly.

In the past I thought the RE050A I or II would be ok for the first few HPDE but with the contisportcontact 5P it was a mess.. not usable
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      11-10-2015, 01:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project Elite View Post
F30 328i N26
Injen Intake
Active 8 tune
ER cat less downpipe
MPE

To-Do:
Brake pads
Wheels/Tires
Brake fluid
Suspension

Any recommendation for brands as to the parts I still need? I will only be swapping the pads out for track, everything else will be left on for daily use.

Most important question, will I be having any problems running track with my Active8 piggyback adding boost? I'm afraid this might put too much stress on the engine or break a part (cracking charge pipe, etc.). I previously owned a S2000 and know those engines can go upwards of 50+ track days without being rebuilt, not sure if these N26 motors can handle it.
Like most of us you've upgraded in the wrong order. Not criticizing, I did the same thing. The faster your car goes and the more it weighs, the more you need tires and brakes.
#1 brake fluid Motul 660> Motul 600 > ATE type 200. You don't want to ever experience vapor lock for a small investment.
#2 Tires. Stock tires are garbage. Many good ones out there. I currently run the Dunlop Direzza ZII. Cost effective, even wear, good grip for my skill level, get greasy about 17-20 min into session, but I just have fun with it then cool down, but my HPDE sessions are 20 min so not a big deal. Longer sessions may require more advanced tires.
#3 Brake pads. Stock pads fade like crazy. Great initial bite on the street, but not intended for track. Hawk and Pagid make some great pads if you are going to swap them out, options are unlimited. I tried a set of Cool Carbons for DD and track and they fared well. Was able to fade them but as I got better at driving, didn't need to rely on them so much and had no issues for dual purpose.
#4 Learn how to drive before adding power! Try running with your addons off first and learn to be smooth. Then you won't have to worry about your engine until you're ready for more power. But no one will actually listen to #4
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      11-10-2015, 11:45 PM   #7
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Yep this car doesnt need power. Especially if you are just getting into it.

Your number one priority should be tires and brakes.

Stainless Braided Brake lines,
Change the fluid to at least Motul 600,
Change the brake pads - I've found Hawk 5.0's to be excellent for both track and street.

I ran PSS on the track and next year will keep them for street use and go for a dedicated track tire, probably the RE-71R just so I dont burn through my street tires as fast.
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      11-11-2015, 03:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MickAv8r
Yep this car doesnt need power. Especially if you are just getting into it.

Your number one priority should be tires and brakes.

Stainless Braided Brake lines,
Change the fluid to at least Motul 600,
Change the brake pads - I've found Hawk 5.0's to be excellent for both track and street.

I ran PSS on the track and next year will keep them for street use and go for a dedicated track tire, probably the RE-71R just so I dont burn through my street tires as fast.
Any drawbacks to using track-rated brake fluid?

What compromises come with those pads on the street.

Thanks for sharing your experience.
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      11-11-2015, 10:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BXL4 View Post
Any drawbacks to using track-rated brake fluid?

What compromises come with those pads on the street.

Thanks for sharing your experience.
Brake fluid works equally as well on the street.

Track spec brake pads have a higher operating temperature range so it needs to be heated up to work effectively, or else you will just be using the mechanical grip and will burn through the pad very quickly. And no, it's impossible to get them to operating temperature during normal driving conditions.
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      12-15-2015, 11:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgarner40 View Post
Like most of us you've upgraded in the wrong order. Not criticizing, I did the same thing. The faster your car goes and the more it weighs, the more you need tires and brakes.
#1 brake fluid Motul 660> Motul 600 > ATE type 200. You don't want to ever experience vapor lock for a small investment.
#2 Tires. Stock tires are garbage. Many good ones out there. I currently run the Dunlop Direzza ZII. Cost effective, even wear, good grip for my skill level, get greasy about 17-20 min into session, but I just have fun with it then cool down, but my HPDE sessions are 20 min so not a big deal. Longer sessions may require more advanced tires.
#3 Brake pads. Stock pads fade like crazy. Great initial bite on the street, but not intended for track. Hawk and Pagid make some great pads if you are going to swap them out, options are unlimited. I tried a set of Cool Carbons for DD and track and they fared well. Was able to fade them but as I got better at driving, didn't need to rely on them so much and had no issues for dual purpose.
#4 Learn how to drive before adding power! Try running with your addons off first and learn to be smooth. Then you won't have to worry about your engine until you're ready for more power. But no one will actually listen to #4

Correct, use to work for a company that would let people drive supercars on the track for 100-200 dollars. We drove all kinds of cars on the track and as annoying as it is being under powered, start with fluids, tires, brakes and then suspension.

Personally my 335i won't come an inch of the track till it gets a Brembo BBK and Ohlins coilovers.

No need to go that extreme, but I can promise those mods are the most rewarding as far as enjoying being on the track, as far as peace of mind and thrill.

Next a diff, maybe axles and carbon drive shaft.

Finally I'll look at the engine. (P.S. Rims and tires are already done.)

If you need any help give Speed Freaks USA a call, ask for Anish. He is my brothers friend and helped us with our track program. Never met a more knowledgeable person and he loves giving people free advice. Also holds the track record at Gingerman in the S2000 class.
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      12-23-2015, 03:57 PM   #11
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Castrol srf > all of the mentioned above.
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