[speedball73]

Hi, have a 2006 E90 325i, manual 6-speed, 155,000 km. Replaced VCG and OFHG a couple years ago, have now developed oil leak around rear of oil pan.

I'm losing 0.5L (according to display of half a bar in the oil level display) within one month of oil change, every time I top it up it quickly falls down to that level. Took the shields off the car and had a look, seems like it is probably oil pan gasket, which I'm preparing to DIY but thought I'd ask you guys first.

Take a look at the attached photos and see what you think, suggestions to confirm where the leak originates welcome (do you think UV dye would help?

I cleaned it up just a week ago, and after a few days of driving the oil was suddenly everywhere again. Only found oil on the ground (parked in garage or same spot at work) one time in the last week.


Thanks in advance,

-speedball73

[dbond]

'06 and '07 N52s are known for oil pan gasket leaks so my vote is for oil pan gasket

[lichtgelb]

Oil pan gasket. I did mine DIY. You have to pull the subframe. It's a big job but can be done in a weekend if you know your way around. Make sure you get the correct set of replacement bolts depending on whether you have an Auto or Manual tranny. They are different part numbers. Is yours a manual? Your bell housing looks different than my auto.

[speedball73]

Thanks for your comments guys - yes mine is a 6-speed manual.

[PhaseP]

Usually the source of the oil leak is where the leaked oil is cleanest and freshest looking, may give some idea. It is hard to tell from pictures.

[speedball73]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Usually the source of the oil leak is where the leaked oil is cleanest and freshest looking, may give some idea. It is hard to tell from pictures.

Phase P, I know what you mean. However, to give you an idea, those oil pan bolts that are dripping with oil were completely cleaned (by me) 7 days ago. Also the flywheel housing was wiped free of any drops of oil (was still oily, but not "drip" oily).

-speedball73

[fravel]

I'll +1 for oil pan gasket, looks very similar to mine before I changed it. No oil since.

[nofearzz]

Originally Posted by fravel

I'll +1 for oil pan gasket, looks very similar to mine before I changed it. No oil since.

I chased the same leak in mo 06 MT 325i (80K MI) and finally all that was left was the oil pan gasket, and sure enough that did it. I got lucky and had a indy do it for $700. - well worth it after understanding the nature of the job. well beyond me. So stupid of a design to get to a $25 gasket. unbelievable.

[997_RICH]

I just did this job (oil pan gasket). I had to support the engine from the top with a harbor freight engine support bar. I also had to undo all the control arms on both sides (to drop the crossmember about 6") and finally even the tie-rod end (to completely drop the crossmember on that side). This gave me enough room to work around the oil pan. I don't see how it's possible on this car to do the pan gasket otherwise- I kept trying to remove the pan as I dropped the cross member.

The most difficult part of the job for me was removing the oil pan vent pipe. It has a plastic connector that i struggled with for almost an hour because I didn't want to break it.

I have an '06 330i with a manual transmission.

I also did the control arms with urethane bushings since I had to remove them anyway. The old bushings were trashed.

The whole job took me about two 3-hour sessions.

[speedball73]

Hi all - I was following this thread and thought I should report back on my oil pan gasket replacement. I did it just over a month ago, dropped the subframe as per the procedure, only two issues encountered:

1- my tow hook had to be ground down to fit in the engine lift location - it threaded in ok but my hook what look like reinforcing "struts" at 90 deg intervals. As a result it could not thread all the way into the block without putting lots of force on the valve cover. A few minutes with the grinder solved that problem. I would check that before you start!

2- it was a PITA to get the oil return pipe off the oil pan (as RICH has noted above!) without breaking it. I broke it a little

My oil level sensor readings were a little random for the first few days after the change, although others have noted that when you change the oil and reset the interval sometimes it takes time for the reading to stabilize. I change my own oil and have not seen that before.

Oil level has been constant for the past month, I'll be taking a look under there when I change my tires for winter this month, I'll report back if there is any leaking but I think it is good.

Thanks again to all those on this board (past and present) for the procedure and advice, did the job myself so I'm a few hundred dollars richer as a result. Plus I know that removing the subframe isn't such a tough job, and makes it waaaay easier to work underneath the car!

-speedball

[MadeInPhilly]

wish someone could post more pics of the subframe removal and other small components. I'm dreading having to do this. how high did ya'll get the car on jack stands?

[mlifxs]

there are a couple recent threads with pics on this, one by Lilly automotive and one other person. "google e90post oil pan gasket diy"

I'll eventually need to do this....small drops are starting. Planning engine mount replacement at the same time.

[speedball73]

Originally Posted by MadeInPhilly

wish someone could post more pics of the subframe removal and other small components. I'm dreading having to do this. how high did ya'll get the car on jack stands?

NOV 24, 2015: My final oil leak inspection report, oil drain pan bolts are completely free of oil, so i think I am good. Unfortunately I just noticed that my valvetronic motor oil seal is leaking, so one more to go!

MadeInPhilly, I didn't have the car too high, I have a run of the mill jack and stands - as long as you can comfortably get under the car that is high enough. Once you have the engine suspended from above and you disconnect the engine mounts, the subframe removal is really easy. You don't actually "remove" it, just lower it to give the oil pan room to come out.

I supported it with my hydraulic jack, removed the four bolts, and presto, it comes down. I also removed something (a couple of small screws I think) that was attached to the radiator to allow the subframe to lower some more, but just go slowly and it will be fine.

Trust me, follow the procedure, don't rush and it will be fine.

UPDATED on JUNE 20, 2016: Sadly in spring 2016 I had another oil leak down below, my suspect was rear main seal, so I got 2 friends together and we tackled it, and yes my rear main seal had failed. Make no mistake, this is a MAJOR job. Just removing the exhaust from a northern (salty) car was a real time waster. That being said, everything else went the way the instructions said it would, but putting in the seal (my first) was tricky to say the least. I replaced the transmission oil, clutch plate, friction disk, and clutch workings (spring clip, pivot pin, throwout bearing, fork) and the clutch action is much smoother (even the wife noticed, and she couldn't hear the awful noise when my driver side front bearing was howling away, so it must be a lot better). The shifting in general is smoother as well - I would recommend refreshing the lubrication where the gearshift connects to the transmission - pretty easy to get to without removing transmission.

[MadeInPhilly]

Originally Posted by speedball73

My final oil leak inspection report, oil drain pan bolts are completely free of oil, so i think I am good. Unfortunately I just noticed that my valvetronic motor oil seal is leaking, so one more to go!

MadeInPhilly, I didn't have the car too high, I have a run of the mill jack and stands - as long as you can comfortably get under the car that is high enough. Once you have the engine suspended from above and you disconnect the engine mounts, the subframe removal is really easy. You don't actually "remove" it, just lower it to give the oil pan room to come out.

I supported it with my hydraulic jack, removed the four bolts, and presto, it comes down. I also removed something (a couple of small screws I think) that was attached to the radiator to allow the subframe to lower some more, but just go slowly and it will be fine.

Trust me, follow the procedure, don't rush and it will be fine.

Did you use any permatex sealant around the gasket?

[speedball73]

Originally Posted by MadeInPhilly

Did you use any permatex sealant around the gasket?

No I did not.

-speedball73

[bdhh]

Originally Posted by 997_RICH

I just did this job (oil pan gasket). I had to support the engine from the top with a harbor freight engine support bar. I also had to undo all the control arms on both sides (to drop the crossmember about 6") and finally even the tie-rod end (to completely drop the crossmember on that side). This gave me enough room to work around the oil pan. I don't see how it's possible on this car to do the pan gasket otherwise- I kept trying to remove the pan as I dropped the cross member.

The most difficult part of the job for me was removing the oil pan vent pipe. It has a plastic connector that i struggled with for almost an hour because I didn't want to break it.

I have an '06 330i with a manual transmission.

I also did the control arms with urethane bushings since I had to remove them anyway. The old bushings were trashed.

The whole job took me about two 3-hour sessions.

When you hooked up the harbour freight engine support.
Were did you attach the chain to the engine? Had a look at this on my car &
not sure were it is strong enough as its all aluminum?
Thanks

[Rick335i]

Originally Posted by bdhh

When you hooked up the harbour freight engine support.
Were did you attach the chain to the engine? Had a look at this on my car &
not sure were it is strong enough as its all aluminum?
Thanks

You use your tow hook for this. Just install the engine support tool and hook it to the tow hook on the cylinder head. Remove your 16mm engine mount nuts. Remove E10 torx from steering shaft to steering rack<--- doing this allows the subframe to lower even more for more clearance but you don't need to do it. Remove underbody trim panels, remove all 6 bolts that secure the subframe to the rails. Start to lower subframe slowly so that you can remove the 3 T30 torx screws on the coolant pipe that goes horizontal on the subframe (remove electric fan if you need to). Loosen the 10mm nuts that secure the trans. cooler lines. Remove the driver side engine mount for more clearance. Remove all torx screws. May need to turn engine by hand with the use of a 22mm socket with 1/2" drive as the last counter weight of the crank will not allow the pan to drop down. DO NOT apply any type of RTV sealant. The new gasket does not require this. To properly secure the gasket onto pan while putting the pan back up just use 2 tie straps on opposite ends of pan and zip tie the gasket to the pan that way the gasket stays in place but do not zip tie it tight, leave the zip ties loose and install 2 new torx screws and then cut off the zip ties. Then install all torx screws but leave them loose until all screw are in and then torque them down to spec. Good luck.

[bdhh]

Thanks for the detailed info
Appreciate it.
Barry

[Rick335i]

Glad I can help.

[simon]

I'm going to do this job in the next few weeks. Did you find torque specs for the subframe or just tighten it by feel?

[Rick335i]

Originally Posted by simon

I'm going to do this job in the next few weeks. Did you find torque specs for the subframe or just tighten it by feel?

Airgun champ. Those 18mm have to be on there tight but not necessarily superman tight.