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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Maintenance on a 155k mile 335i
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09-09-2015, 11:49 AM | #1 |
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Maintenance on a 155k mile 335i
Finally picked up a e90 after searching for a few months. The car is a 2007 335i fully loaded(besides a few small things like ipod adapter and active cruise control), it even has folding rear seats . It is a 155k mile car(yes I know the whole "omg the miles are so high" argument) but is cleaner, drives better and is smoother than most of the <100k mile cars I drove as this cars 155k miles were almost all highway and the owner took very good care of the car. I have already put 600 miles on the car in the last week.My question is what is some typical maitence that you guys can recommend for the car? The following has already been addressed:
-HPFP(Previous owner) -Injectors(Previous owner) -Valve Cover Gasket(Previous owner) -OFHG(Previous owner) -Serp Belt 10k ago(Previous owner) -Oil every 7k(Previous owner) -Spark Plugs 5k ago(Previous owner) -Valve carbon cleaning(Myself) What my plans are: -Coolant Flush(When the OFHG leaked oil got into the coolant and they flushed it, but I can still see some slight oil residue in the overflow) -Waterpump and T-stat(never been replaced) -Transmission flush(It has never been done, so I assume it needs it, however the trans shifts perfectly) And of course pictures: The fleet Car still gets great gas mileage on the freeway! Valve cleaning(Carb cleaner and brushes) and headlight restoration lolz: Plans for the car include a jb4, DPs, wheels, suspension, CIC idrive, detail and maybe a front lip and trunk spoiler. These are all cell phone pictures, I hope to detail and clean the car and get some good DSLR pictures soon. Last edited by Ask92; 09-09-2015 at 12:14 PM.. |
09-09-2015, 12:29 PM | #2 |
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Nice ride! Congrats!
155,000+ miles is no big deal. If the previous owner maintained it well as you mentioned, then you're good to go. Looks like you’re an experienced DIY type owner, so you got things covered. I would check the brakes in the Vehicle Status to see when they’re due, that’s if it’s been reset correctly, or have them visually inspected. Also, if the previous owner left the maintenance booklet, it should tell you what things should be checked and replaced at certain miles. Good luck and enjoy that bad boy!
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2010 BMW 335i: Monaco blue metallic/Premium+Sport Auto-Steptronic, BMW PE, Cobb Stage 2
2005 Mustang GT: Redfire metallic/5-spd/Ford Racing (Axle backs, silver Bullitt wheels)/K&N CAI/ Diablo Sport Predator Tuner 1997 Toyota Corolla 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SL Roadster |
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09-09-2015, 12:58 PM | #4 | |
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09-09-2015, 01:15 PM | #5 |
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Do NOT do a transmission 'flush'...do a 'fluid and filter change'!!!
Check/replace all belts, all tensioners and pulleys, all hoses (cooling system, A/C system, power steering system) |
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09-09-2015, 01:52 PM | #7 | |
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Yup |
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09-09-2015, 03:15 PM | #8 |
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wish it was as easy as it was with my Toyota lol, we cant get that good of a flush with ours due to complications we can only drain and fill repeatedly. just look up a diy its not that bad. miles are just a number if the car is maintained well which yours is, I'm sure every mile is a blast for you like how it is for us. Good Luck
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09-09-2015, 03:35 PM | #9 |
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MOTOR MOUNTS.
Do these ASAP. Us early model guys have an issue where worn motor mounts can cause the power steering pulley to hit the subframe > shred the belt > belt gets sucked into the engine = new engine time. I replaced mine at 135k miles as a preventative maintenance and very glad I did. The old mount had compressed ALOT. |
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09-09-2015, 03:51 PM | #11 |
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Turbos never got done either?
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09-09-2015, 04:39 PM | #12 | |
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Not that I have found. No smoke, no noise, and full boost The wastegate does rattle when cold even after i tightned it about a turn, so ill need to re tighten them a bit more. Last edited by Ask92; 09-09-2015 at 04:45 PM.. |
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09-09-2015, 05:09 PM | #14 |
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lol 90% of the carbon is gone and the little black spots on the ports are not going to affect airflow and the valve seat is clean which is what will make the biggest difference. I'll take $20 of carb cleaner and brushes over a $500 shop bill or $300 kit any day of the week. I HATE people working on my car, half the time I go back over it stuff is not tight or reinstalled improperly.
Last edited by Ask92; 09-09-2015 at 05:15 PM.. |
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09-09-2015, 05:24 PM | #17 |
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What do you mean the ports are no big deal? My port on #6 was almost 30% clogged with carbon and you are saying that wouldn't make a difference? The valves themselves obviously would also make a difference and yes mine are clean regardless of the fuzzy cell phone picture you are basing your idea off.
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09-09-2015, 05:28 PM | #18 |
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I am saying from the picture you presented to the group, the port doesn't look horrible after the cleaning, the valve itself still looks bad. All I am saying is if you are gonna do a job, do it right. I would be surprised if you even closed all the valves when you did the job. But its your car and you do with it as you please.
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09-09-2015, 05:38 PM | #19 | |
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Last edited by Ask92; 09-09-2015 at 05:49 PM.. |
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09-21-2015, 11:43 AM | #20 |
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Well the supra is about to go down for a new build(600rwhp+ or bust) so I want to make sure the bmw is 100% before I take the supra off the road. Also because I will be dumping all my play cash into the supra I want to do all I can to not get hit with a random $1000 parts bill for the bmw. I am planning on doing the following as soon as I get back from Supras In Vegas(Early October):
Waterpump/tsat Serp belt with pulleys/tensioner Motor Mounts Trans pan/filter with fluid Oil Change with filter New front rotors/pads Again, nothing is broken on the car now and it drives very well, but I just want to do some serious preventative maintenance. Anyone have any other idea on what to look for an maybe replace? Also I priced everything from ECS tuning and it seems to be the cheapest option coming it at around $1,000 for everything with their "pre assembled" non OEM kits. Are there any other sites I should look into? |
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09-21-2015, 12:47 PM | #21 |
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IMHO dont go changing things unless they are showing signs of wear, ie the motor mounts, belts, pulleys, etc... Inspect them and if good let em be. If you are in the habit of changing random parts for the hell of it I would just tell you to scrap the car and go get a new M4.
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09-21-2015, 12:52 PM | #22 |
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Only things I'd do is water pump and t stat along with oil change and trans fluid change. The other things don't really need to be changed unless they show bad signs of wear.
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