[Tuned435i]

I recently installed my burger tuning JB4 along with a injen CAI and a RaceWerks charge pipe. When I have the Jb4 turned on the car is very jerky when idling, especially pulling out of the drive way. When I turn off the JB4 it runs perfectly fine. I haven't had any other problem with the JB4 and it definetely increase the performance. Is there a way to stop the jerkiness by putting on different parts or something?

[Straight6Driver]

Bump.

Similar issue here. JB4 with charge pipe. Jerky lower rpm when the car is cold. Idling is fine though.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Double check installation. If everything looks good contact jon at burgertuning.com

[obriennathaniel]

Check installation, codes, and Take a log and send it to john or terry.

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by Tuned435i

I recently installed my burger tuning JB4 along with a injen CAI and a RaceWerks charge pipe. When I have the Jb4 turned on the car is very jerky when idling, especially pulling out of the drive way. When I turn off the JB4 it runs perfectly fine. I haven't had any other problem with the JB4 and it definetely increase the performance. Is there a way to stop the jerkiness by putting on different parts or something?

Originally Posted by Straight6Driver

Bump.

Similar issue here. JB4 with charge pipe. Jerky lower rpm when the car is cold. Idling is fine though.

Similar issue here, but when im cruising in low speeds and low RPM like 1300 RPM my car feels like its fighting itself and jerking like feeling. But when in higher RPM and speed it is fine.

[Straight6Driver]

Originally Posted by dd1981

Similar issue here, but when im cruising in low speeds and low RPM like 1300 RPM my car feels like its fighting itself and jerking like feeling. But when in higher RPM and speed it is fine.

Does it go away once the car warms up?

Do you get "drivetrain malfunction" fault code at all?

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by Straight6Driver

Does it go away once the car warms up?

Do you get "drivetrain malfunction" fault code at all?

No codes and it actually happens only when the car is WARM. Not noticing it when the car is cold. It's very slight hesitation. It's not consistent.

[Straight6Driver]

Originally Posted by dd1981

No codes and it actually happens only when the car is WARM. Not noticing it when the car is cold. It's very slight hesitation. It's not consistent.

Weird. Mine happens more often when cold and I'd get a drivetrain malfunction full engine power not available warning.

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by Straight6Driver

Weird. Mine happens more often when cold and I'd get a drivetrain malfunction full engine power not available warning.

Damn that sucks. Every time? This is why I'm jumping into a flash tune group buy. I don't want this choppy inconstant feeling...

Hope you get it resolved..

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Straight6Driver

Weird. Mine happens more often when cold and I'd get a drivetrain malfunction full engine power not available warning.

There are lots of different problems that can come up which will result in a rough idle. Some are caused by intakes or downpipes, others by JB4 setting, yet others by things unrelated to tuning like vacuum leaks or MAF sensors coated in filter oil.

If you are able to get a CEL out of it you're way ahead of the game. Read the code and then find someone who knows what the code means to help you solve it. If you have a BMS product on the car you can post the code and details in their support forum for professional help.

If you are not able to get a CEL then its much more difficult to determine what is wrong. A datalog is normally a good first step though.

Mike

[wanghao]

Same issue here, engine just got low rpm when I cold start it, and then it jut goes off. It doesn't happen everyday on my car though. ( I got JB4, ER down-pipe, Akra exhaust, and AFE intake)

[mike@x-ph.com]

I would start by datalogging if possible
If not remove the intake

[Straight6Driver]

Originally Posted by dd1981

Damn that sucks. Every time? This is why I'm jumping into a flash tune group buy. I don't want this choppy inconstant feeling...

Hope you get it resolved..

Yes almost every time. Yet to find a solution.

[Straight6Driver]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

I would start by datalogging if possible
If not remove the intake

I'm on stock intake, yet it does the same thing.

[eric@helix]

Check the installation/fitment of the charge pipe.

[Jadar]

Originally Posted by Straight6Driver

Yes almost every time. Yet to find a solution.

Sorry to hear. May want to think about removal.

It annoys me and I don't even have the big problems you have. I'm resolving it via ENZO flash tune .
I'm not screwing with this anymore.

Good luck.

[Straight6Driver]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

There are lots of different problems that can come up which will result in a rough idle. Some are caused by intakes or downpipes, others by JB4 setting, yet others by things unrelated to tuning like vacuum leaks or MAF sensors coated in filter oil.

If you are able to get a CEL out of it you're way ahead of the game. Read the code and then find someone who knows what the code means to help you solve it. If you have a BMS product on the car you can post the code and details in their support forum for professional help.

If you are not able to get a CEL then its much more difficult to determine what is wrong. A datalog is normally a good first step though.

Mike

I did get a CEL eventually:

122108 Blow-off valve: Jammed closed

108A10 charge air temperature sensor, electrical: signal not plausible

120408 charging pressure control, deactivation: pressure build up blocked

180001 catalytic converter: efficiency below limit value


These codes came up during the CEL.

This was one week ago. I managed to track down a GFB DV replacement assuming the BOV/DV is faulty. (The GFB DV replaces the diaphragm of the OE DV with a piston type internals).

GFB DV installed today. Now I'm still getting the "drivetrain malfunction" warnings here and there, although they're not as frequent as before the DV replacement.

Going to the workshop tomorrow again to scan for codes.

:/

[Straight6Driver]

Originally Posted by dd1981

Sorry to hear. May want to think about removal.

It annoys me and I don't even have the big problems you have. I'm resolving it via ENZO flash tune .
I'm not screwing with this anymore.

Good luck.

Let us know how the flash tune goes. I have access to cobb over here if all else fails with JB4.

[Straight6Driver]

Originally Posted by eric@helix

Check the installation/fitment of the charge pipe.

Care to explain a bit more? I did ask the shop to check the charge pipe install (but TBH I'm not certain if they ever did).

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Straight6Driver

I did get a CEL eventually:

122108 Blow-off valve: Jammed closed

108A10 charge air temperature sensor, electrical: signal not plausible

120408 charging pressure control, deactivation: pressure build up blocked

180001 catalytic converter: efficiency below limit value


These codes came up during the CEL.

This was one week ago. I managed to track down a GFB DV replacement assuming the BOV/DV is faulty. (The GFB DV replaces the diaphragm of the OE DV with a piston type internals).

GFB DV installed today. Now I'm still getting the "drivetrain malfunction" warnings here and there, although they're not as frequent as before the DV replacement.

Going to the workshop tomorrow again to scan for codes.

:/

Was going to suggest the DV replacement so glad you did that. Lets see what the new codes are.

Mike

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by dd1981

Sorry to hear. May want to think about removal.

It annoys me and I don't even have the big problems you have. I'm resolving it via ENZO flash tune .
I'm not screwing with this anymore.

Good luck.

I would not get a flash tune before i am sure this issue is caused by the JB4 and so far no indication whatsoever points to the JB4.

If you have tried everything and you still cant find a solution, i recommend you contact Burger Tuning technical support

[shivaswrath]

Fuel pump?