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      02-26-2015, 09:37 AM   #1
EuroSpec27
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Not the same...

Ok, so I recently had a walnut blast done by my local shop, while also replacing the spark plugs, and when I picked up my car and drove it home, it felt like a million bucks! The throttle response was amazing, and there was almost no turbo lag whatsoever. To be completely honest, it didn't even feel like I was driving my car.

Well, all good things come to an end, and one morning, on my way to work, some jagoff decided to cut me off on I-95 and box me in between two 18-wheelers. I began to panic as I felt claustrophobic as the semi's swerved in and out of their lanes, but as soon as I saw an opening, I went for it.

I was in fourth gear, dropped it into third, and pinned it to safety as I gave the "look" to the d-bag driver who cut me off. I was so caught up in the moment, I forgot to shift, and over-revved in third gear until my CEL came on and my car went into limp mode.

I immediately pulled over to the shoulder and shut the car off. Upon popping the hood and inspecting the engine bay, and everything appeared to be fine. There was no smoke or any loose hoses/belts that I could see.

I turned the car back on, and all was good again. No lights, no noises, no problems.. right?

Wrong. Since that day, my car has not driven the same. There is tons of lag, poor throttle response, and what appears to be a vibration throughout the car at WOT. My boost gauge reads 14lbs, but there does not seem to be power like there was before this happened.

I took my car to my shop to run a diagnostic, but the only thing they found was a fouled oil temp sensor. They replaced it for me, but the car still drives like crap and just doesn't feel right. They told me there are no codes being thrown, and everything appears to be fine, but I am convinced otherwise.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing these issues? There has to be a way to pinpoint what is causing this loss of power and vibration.

Any information would be greatly appreciated!
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      02-26-2015, 09:41 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroSpec27 View Post
Ok, so I recently had a walnut blast done by my local shop, while also replacing the spark plugs, and when I picked up my car and drove it home, it felt like a million bucks! The throttle response was amazing, and there was almost no turbo lag whatsoever. To be completely honest, it didn't even feel like I was driving my car.

Well, all good things come to an end, and one morning, on my way to work, some jagoff decided to cut me off on I-95 and box me in between two 18-wheelers. I began to panic as I felt claustrophobic as the semi's swerved in and out of their lanes, but as soon as I saw an opening, I went for it.

I was in fourth gear, dropped it into third, and pinned it to safety as I gave the "look" to the d-bag driver who cut me off. I was so caught up in the moment, I forgot to shift, and over-revved in third gear until my CEL came on and my car went into limp mode.

I immediately pulled over to the shoulder and shut the car off. Upon popping the hood and inspecting the engine bay, and everything appeared to be fine. There was no smoke or any loose hoses/belts that I could see.

I turned the car back on, and all was good again. No lights, no noises, no problems.. right?

Wrong. Since that day, my car has not driven the same. There is tons of lag, poor throttle response, and what appears to be a vibration throughout the car at WOT. My boost gauge reads 14lbs, but there does not seem to be power like there was before this happened.

I took my car to my shop to run a diagnostic, but the only thing they found was a fouled oil temp sensor. They replaced it for me, but the car still drives like crap and just doesn't feel right. They told me there are no codes being thrown, and everything appears to be fine, but I am convinced otherwise.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing these issues? There has to be a way to pinpoint what is causing this loss of power and vibration.

Any information would be greatly appreciated!
If you are running 14 psi, I would assume that you have either a JB or COBB; maybe post a datalog.
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      02-26-2015, 09:50 AM   #3
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That is correct, I am running a JB4 set to Map 5. The only other mods I have are performance exhaust and Injen cold air intake.
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      02-26-2015, 10:20 AM   #4
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What year is your car? You are probably better to log and find out what is really going on as too many variables to guess what could be wrong.
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      02-26-2015, 10:29 AM   #5
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You can't overrev 3rd gear doing what you did. There is a redline/fuel cutoff that prevents that. You do need to post logs though.
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      02-26-2015, 10:42 AM   #6
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Car is a 2008 335xi coupe. How do I post logs?
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      02-26-2015, 10:52 AM   #7
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sounds odd, unless your a manual the auto transmission will change gears regardless. are you still hitting boost targets? post some logs, staying at redline shouldnt pose must of a porblem unless your driving around town at it for a while. but 10 or so seconds should be fine, as mentions before theres a fuel cutoff,

Automatic transmissions can test this in snow, from first, upshift into second and hold the knob up, gun it, itll hit redline, gas will cutoff, then continue,.
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      02-26-2015, 11:03 AM   #8
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Car is a 6-speed manual. Could it be a transmission issue? Or possible a fouled spark plug? That would throw a code though, wouldn't it? The vibration is felt from the pedals all throughout the car. It's a very strange feeling.
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      02-26-2015, 11:06 AM   #9
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So the car doesn't idle smooth either?

I'd pull the plugs and take a look as the first step.
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      02-26-2015, 11:19 AM   #10
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Plugs and coils would be the first things to look at.
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      02-26-2015, 11:20 AM   #11
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      02-26-2015, 11:58 AM   #12
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Suggest doing a boost leak test for starters. If you need any help feel free to PM or email us at any time for advice.
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      02-26-2015, 03:19 PM   #13
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No, the idle is definitely far from smooth. I was told by my shop the plugs and coils were not an issue since they were just replaced at the time of the walnut blast. I don't think that they ever took them out to have a look either. Should I go back there and ask them to do that as well as look for a boost leak and log everything?
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      02-26-2015, 03:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proTUNING Freaks View Post
Suggest doing a boost leak test for starters. If you need any help feel free to PM or email us at any time for advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroSpec27 View Post
No, the idle is definitely far from smooth. I was told by my shop the plugs and coils were not an issue since they were just replaced at the time of the walnut blast. I don't think that they ever took them out to have a look either. Should I go back there and ask them to do that as well as look for a boost leak and log everything?
The plugs were likely good prior to the event but our concern is you've done internal damage to the motor.

The first step is checking plugs. Checking for excessive fouling, burnt, lean condition and/or pieces missing.

I wouldn't even log the car as you may cause more damage. Only thing I would do electronically is try resetting adaptations.

Then do a boost leak and/or leak down test to confirm the engine compression is healthy.

I don't think the shop is responsible for inspecting anything since you may have potentially caused the damage however if you trust their opinion maybe they will diagnose it but I'm sure they will charge a diagnostic fee.
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      02-26-2015, 04:51 PM   #15
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At this point I don't care if it is going to cost me anything, I just want everything to be okay and for my car to run as good as it did the day I took her home from the walnut blasting.
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      02-26-2015, 05:01 PM   #16
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Hopefully it's something simple. If it was my car I would reset everything including adaptations.

If that doesnt work I'd go to the plugs.

If those check out the compression leak down test.
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      02-26-2015, 05:02 PM   #17
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I remember reading on here in the past that the crank bolt on some manual trans cars came loose causing engine damage, and BMW told these folks that an overev condition caused the bolt to come loose.
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      02-26-2015, 05:05 PM   #18
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How do I reset these adaptations you speak of? And I will definitely look into that crank bolt issue, thanks for mentioning it.
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      02-26-2015, 06:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroSpec27 View Post
How do I reset these adaptations you speak of? And I will definitely look into that crank bolt issue, thanks for mentioning it.
What tune do you have? IF you don't have one then you need a bmw diagnostic tool like bavarian technic tool.
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      02-26-2015, 06:42 PM   #20
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I have a Cobb. Is reseting adaptations possible with that? I think not but hope I'm wrong.
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      02-26-2015, 07:46 PM   #21
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I run a JB4 map 5 tune. Should I get one of these to run my own diagnostics and reset adaptations: http://jb4connectkit.com/store/index...&product_id=50
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      02-26-2015, 08:07 PM   #22
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Could you have possibly mechanically over revved and bent a valve? This will cause the engine to vibrate and run rough.
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